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Mitsubishi Diamante

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Comments

  • dblabahndblabahn Member Posts: 2
    i think the reset for my radio was 1234- might want to try that
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Actually we prefer that questions be answered on-line so that all of our members will benefit. That's what we are about - a community sharing its knowledge among all. If everyone had emailed each other about the warping issue, it wouldn't have been here to help you! :-)

    Also it's not a good idea to post your email address on a public webpage. If you want Forums members to be able to see it, all you have to do is make it public in your profile.

    We have had some discussions on the Sirius - a keyword search (left side of the page) might turn up some useful information for you while you are waiting for an answer here.

    Hope this helps!
  • rockawaykidrockawaykid Member Posts: 8
    it needs the two LED's that light the display for climate controls. will it cost me more money than one hour's labor?
    150,000 miles and look at how little I need. Great car!
  • rockawaykidrockawaykid Member Posts: 8
    hi: 150,000 on my '98 Diamante ES and none of the problems on transmissions or tire wear. and for that matter most other things. What has broken or worn is what i expected to wear. by the way i am in 'the million mile club' by that i mean i have logged more than 1,000,000 miles so far in life. :):D
    When we went to buy a car we were on the phone to friends in New Zealand; they said the Diamante was like a Caddilac to them there. So we bought it. the only problem we ever had which was out of the norm was the trans fluid thing after 30,000 needed changing and caught us unaware but Mr. Vivona clued us in on that one.
    I do need to change the LED's in the dash climate control. I wonder how much that cost anyone?
  • stallerstaller Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I have a 1992 Diamante LS. About 6-7 months ago my diamante started stalling. It would just shut off while running in no perticular pattern. It would start up again after about 45 minutes to an hour or so. If i left it untouched for couple of days it would run more than if i left it untouched for couple hours. It started happening more often. So me and my dad tried to replace things that could be problematic. But we got no results. So I took it to the dealer. They told me that there is a problem with the computer system in the car. So i got it replaced, and the problem kept coming back. They kept my car for 3-4 months and still couldnt figure out the problem. I paid them approx. 1600 dollars for nothing. they gave me my car back with a replaced computer and the same old problem. The diamante has been sitting in the same parking spot for 2 months and i cant find a cure. Can anyone help. I love my car so junking it is not an option for me.
  • webbaddictwebbaddict Member Posts: 1
    I can't say for sure if this is your problem, but it may be a idle air motor. I have a 1993 diamante wagon with 109,000 miles on it and it started stalling the other day ( when stopped, backing up, low speeds and such) just got my car back today got a tune up on it as well. The idle air motor cost around $324.00.
  • gtroopgtroop Member Posts: 85
    I had the timing belt replaced at about 70K on my 1995 Diamante then 18 months later the timing belt broke at 87k due to a faulty part in the Mitsubishi timing belt kit. Mitsubishi did come through though and did a head/valve job on the engine which took care of that problem. Despite Mitsubishi's toubles I am amazed that they covered this repair given that the shop who replaced the belt was just an independent shop.

    Recently I have been seriously entertaining the idea of trading the Diamante off due to a couple of problems I was affraid to have fixed. I probably would have already parted with it except the one car I was hoping to buy had been sold by the time I arrived at the dealer. After a month of looking around and pondering a car payment I decided to take the D to the mechanic to see what it would take to remedy the lackluster acceleration I have been experiencing in recent months and track down the new oil leak. The solution to these problems were amazingly simple - acceleration - traced to the ten year old spark plug wires, oil leak (this is embarassing) - traced to the oil cap no longer providing a tight seal.

    Given the relatively cheap price of these solutions I have now deceided to hang onto the D for a couple more years or more. It currently has about 93k on it and runs great. In fact I now need new tires as the old worn ones won't stay planted anymore.
  • pwcpwc Member Posts: 7
    Help please! The click click click... loud noise isn't going away. The sound comes from the back of the stereo/radio or glove compartment area. sometimes it makes the noise when I turn the car on or while I'm driving. Any ideas???
  • navigator89navigator89 Member Posts: 1,080
    Is the Mitsubishi Diamante still sold in the United States? Here in the Middle East it is sold as the Mitsubishi Magna. I've always found it to be a very attractive car at least on the exterior. Here they offer Magna sport packages that give a body kit and a spoiler, and it makes the car look great. It's a very popular car here.
  • korinnakorinna Member Posts: 1
    I've just recently purchased a 1994 Mitsubishi Diamante LS, equipped with an Infinity stereo and speakers. There are controls for a 6-disc changer on the radio and a compartment for the changer in the trunk - but unfortunately the car did not come with the changer. Does anybody know if there is a specific type of disc changer I would need to purchase - or if it has to be Inifinity, etc.? Thank you in advance! ;)
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    korinna - Check with your dealer for the Mitsubishi part number of the changer that will work with your radio, then go on eBay and look for a used one. I have seen six-disk changers go for $60-$100. You need to check to see if there is a cable already installed between your radio and the trunk, or you will need to buy a cable. You can also check with http://www.crutchfield.com/ to see if there is an aftermarket changer that will work with your existing radio.

    Mr. Vivona
  • pwcpwc Member Posts: 7
    click, click, ... and the saga continues. could it be the airbag on the passenger seat since the noise coming from that area?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Airbag on the passenger seat? Your Diamante doesn't have any airbags in the seat. If you meant the airbag in the dash, then no, that's not the source of the clicking. The clicking has to be something in the ventilation controls. Either a sticking vent flow motor or if your system has any sort of vaccuum control to it, its could be a vaccuum leak in the auto AC control unit causing a motor to stay on. Your symptom sounds like the latter, but I'd be surprised such a modern car would still be using vaccuum controls. My 85 Audi 5000 had an annoyingly loud ticking sound coming from under the dash on the passenger side. It started intermittently and eventually would do it non-stop a few minutes after starting the car. The vent controls were also stuck in defrost mode. It was a bad auto AC control unit, which was vaccuum-operated.
  • itsjkmitsjkm Member Posts: 1
    A friend has a 91 Diamante (japanese specs)4wd DOHC V6. it will not start. The car began by not starting some days then it won't start at all the engine turns over but the there is no spark. I took a test light (the pen type) and tested the wires on the bottom of the coil packs and there is current present, but on the top side where the plugs attach there is no spark even while the engine is turning over. A prior owner installed a remote start himself which was done kinda shabby like and the control box was kicked down by my friends wife(not sure if the two are related but the problem started after the box was kicked down and the wires pulled. we tried unpluging this unit but it. doesn't help anything. We do not have a unit to test for the codes is there some way to test for codes like a OBD system that flashes the check engine light or somewhere to attach a multimenter and count arm bouncing around. Any help would be appreciated
  • kfhmailkfhmail Member Posts: 199
    My 1992 Diamante is getting on in years and I will probably be replacing it in the fall (Oct or Nov). I have approximately 166,000 miles.

    It has really been a GREAT car. White Pearl exterior with grey interior (LS).

    I have only needed to put one set of brakes on the car. The back brakes were replaced at 108,000 miles and the front at 126,565 miles. That is the only work ever done to the brakes.

    I have put on 3 sets of tires...the last ones about a year ago.

    It has always leaked a little oil. And...now it is burning oil...but it still runs great. I put in some "Stop Smoke" and the oil does not show burning out the exhaust. Replaced valve cover gasket.

    I do have one little problem (and it was my fault for not checking better)...about 3 years ago the transmission started leaking and before I realized it, it had drained all the fluid out of the transmission. Took it in for service...replaced a gasket/seal and re-filled the fluid. It runs great except on occasions it appears to shift into neutral. This only happens on "hot weather" days and it is "very intermittent". It only happens when you first start up the car and pull out of a parking space. If you let the "idle" basically pull you out (back) and then you shift to drive occasionally it acts like you are in idle. You then have to shift back to park and then to drive and everything is fine. The strange thing is that is appears to be getting better each year. Don't know why.

    Again this has been a great car...the best driving car I have ever had (Camaro, Skylark, & Supra). It still looks very good.

    I think Mitsu messed up when they did not put more effort into this car.

    Oh well...soon I will have to part ways with this car. I am looking at a 2006 Infiniti M35 or 2006 Acura RL.

    I have driven both and they drive very well, but they are not like my 92 Diamante.

    So guys...enjoy your Diamante and I hope you have as good of experience with yours as I have.
  • cracoviancracovian Member Posts: 337
    Diamantes are no longer sold in the States. Mitsubishi purposely cheapened the car for this market, so it couldn't even be compared to the real Magna. We got the 4-speed transmission, no side airbags, no wagon or 4WD option. I was sooo close to getting the last 2004 VR-X but decided on another fine Australian automobile instead: Pontiac GTO (Monaro) :-)
  • d2000d2000 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with my Diamante 2000. The clicking last for about 30 seconds then stops. Happens every time I start the car. It will go away if I turn up the heat. So far, everything is heating/cooling properly. If I leave the temperature at 65 (the lowest setting) then the clicking goes away and does not return until I start the car again. From what I have found out so far, it is the mechanism which mixes the hot/cold air to get to the right temperature. There is a lever under the dash directly behind the center console which moves back and forth as the temp is adjusted. I think whatever sensor or gadget tells the lever it has moved far enough is not working.
  • pwcpwc Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for your comments and suggestion. I'll check it out. :confuse:
  • pwcpwc Member Posts: 7
    Jack pot! finally someone having the same problem with their Diamante. I'm having exact same problem. I'm parking the car outside the garage at nite and in the morning the temp is in the 50 degrees and when i start the car, all is well. After that, the noise is back. Thanks for your comments. :confuse:
  • bosoxn04bosoxn04 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 Diamante LS and blew the front 2 speakers in the door. I went to buy new ones and they told me that because of the infinity sound system in the car I would have to replace everything (the deck and all the speakers) and that "it wouldn't sound right" if i just replaced the 2 front speakers with after market speakers. are they screwing with me?
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    I changed the stock speakers on my '99 Diamante with MB quartz back in 2000.

    I just can't remember what size they were, either 6.5"'s or 6.25"'s? Take your current speakers and see if it states 4 Ohm or 8 Ohm, just buy something similar to it you will be fine. Replace with a component speaker set ie. Separate tweeter and woofer. You might have to use the tweeters somewhere else unless you are unhappy with the stock tweeters ( ...I wasn't) and replace them as well.

    Do not buy the common two-way or three-way speaker sets, there is a high pass filter on the line and it won't sound right.

    Also you may also want to transfer the a foam gasket that is glued to the front of the speaker cone ( If there is one ...I can't remember). This completes the seal between speaker and the interior door molding. If you don't complete the seal, you will probably have less bass.

    You will just need to cut the stock speaker connectors on the speaker end and determine which is the negative and positive wire. You can usually tell by reading where the current wire in connected to on the old speaker. It should be marked by a (+) or (-) on the speaker housing.

    Good Luck...
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    You could replace the speakers with exact replacements from Mitsubishi. They will cost about $60 each. See http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213934&chapter=A- RP6295&appSectionid=2610&groupid=2644&subgroupid=2646&componentid=26819&make=24&model=Diam- ante&year=2000&graphicID=6295275&callout=9&catalogid=2 or comparison price them at more of the dealers offering parts online at wholesale at http://www.parts.com/index.cfm?action=subCategories&categoryID=1&subCategoryID=24

    With exact replacements you are guaranteed to have the original sound.

    If by "blew" you meant that the foam deteriorated and the speakers still work, but they sound raspy, you can replace the foam yourself for less than $20 and about an hours work per speaker. Visit http://www.wooferrepair.com/6kit.html

    Mr. Vivona
  • horse1horse1 Member Posts: 2
    I'm getting mixed advice on just how many parts, such as, water pump,fuel filter,etc. ,to just routinely replace, as part of 60,000mi service.
    Estimates range between $1,000 & $2,500.
    I don't want to sacrifice safety/peace of mind for $, but I also don't want to be talked into doing more than is reasonably needed.
    I like the car, but am aware of it's value($7,000-$8,000)
    Also, I'm aware that the final decision is mine, but would appreciate a bit of help in the decision making process.....thanks in advance to anyone who responds.
    Cheers!
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Check your owner's manual and only do what is recommended for 60,000 miles. Also note what is recommended based on how may years it is been since the last service, such as a coolant change every two years.

    For 60,000 miles, spark plugs and timing belt are "must do's". While the timing belt is being replaced, it is good practice to replace the drive belts, the water pump and the timing belt tensioner. If you are good mechanically and have the time, you can save hundreds of dollars by doing the work yourself. You will need the factory service manual which has step-by-step instructions. You can save on parts by visiting the online dealers that offer wholesale pricing on genuine Mitsubishi parts (see my previous posting) . I recommend against using aftermarket parts. You will never be sure if the part is up to the original specs. You can buy the factory parts wholesale and still find a dealer that will install them for you and save about 25% on the parts cost.

    Mr. Vivona
  • horse1horse1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Mr Vivona, your input is appreciated.
    Al
  • diadondiadon Member Posts: 1
    Hello All-
    Any good advice out there as how best to remove an alternator on my '93 3.0 SOHC Dia?
    Manual says "remove from below"- no way!
    DiaDon
  • led555led555 Member Posts: 1
    You may have cell phone interference... I've noticed the clicking noise in my 2003 diamante... and I've pin-pointed it down to my cell phone. As a matter of fact... I've heard a clicking noise in various vehicles. Try doing some experiments... if you agree that the clicking noise may be caused by your cell phone. :shades:
  • hank_in_ochank_in_oc Member Posts: 4
    I've got a 2001 D LS with 60K miles. My problem is that the vehicle loses power at low speeds (<30 MPH) to the point where the gas pedal does nothing although the vehicle still idles. Not every time, but on several occasion the TCL light begins the flash at the same time. I took it to the South Coast Mitsubishi dealer and they identified a warning signal coming from the throttle body. Unfortunately, they claim they are unable to pinpoint the problem and suggested that I spend $1,700 on an entirely new throttle body. This seems like way too much money to be spending on a car that looks and generally drives like it's new. Has anyone faced this problem? Would cleaning the throttle body fix this issue?
  • ccancioccancio Member Posts: 91
    I think its funny that repair of new cars seems to be reduced to replacing whole assemblies rather than directly pinpointing the problem... :mad:

    Maybe the only *able* mechanic was away on vacation that day.image. :confuse:

    I suggest you get a second opinion by going to another mitsi dealer - then if still no direct answer try an reputable independent repair shop that specialize in Mitsubishi's...

    You also have to watch the dealer parts prices, they charge you *mega* retail when you can get them cheaper on-line! Ask them for a quote and specify the required parts list with prices. Then compare with Mentor Mitsubshi http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=searchCatalogOEM&siteid=213934 .

    Good Luck...
  • rayk3rayk3 Member Posts: 9
    I have heard that the timing belt must be replaced together with the balancer belt(if I am not wrong). Is it really so? and I am wondering: any car mechanic is able to change the timing belt properly or "high class" specialist required for the job? Appreciate any response. Ray K.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I don't think the Diamante has a balancer belt. Four cylinder Mitsus use this belt to run the balance shafts, but the V6 doesn't have balance shafts. You might as well change all the accessory belts though. You don't necessarily need a high class specialist to change the timing belt, but don't just take it to some cheap shadetree mechanic either. Any reputable shop that deals with imports should be able to handle the job.
  • rayk3rayk3 Member Posts: 9
    Thank you very much for your response.
    Ray K.
  • lnnguyenlnnguyen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Diamante LS.
    My last brake job was done by my trusted independent mechanic who replace F/R pads and turned all the rotors at 65K miles.

    I'm now at 114K miles and thinking I should service the brakes as preventive measure. I've done brake jobs on other cars in the past so I don't think it's especially difficult. I'm planning on using brake pads from the dealer.

    After reading through this board, my concern is with the rotors. I'm planning on having them turned at Autozone if not worn down below specs. I believe they have the Accu-turn machine. Is this a good idea?

    Any input is appreciated!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    If the rotors were turned once, I wouldn't have them turned again. It will make them too thin and prone to warping. Besides, I don't think Autozone turns rotors anymore. At least they don't in my area. It has become so expensive to turn rotors anymore that it's wiser to just buy new ones. As long as the rotors aren't warped and don't have any scoring on the surface, I would just change the pads and be done with it. Are you sure you even need to change all the pads? Rear pads normally last over 100k on this car, especially if driven primarily on the highway.
  • jim78jim78 Member Posts: 1
    I am considering buying a used Diamante 2001 LS with 26k miles on it from an in-law. Vehicle has had 2 owners both in family. No major issues. Carfax Vin search did not uncover any issues either. A lot of my general Diamante research has scared me though: HeaterCore problems, high parts cost, transmission hesitation, brake problems. What are your thoughts? I'll be getting a good deal on it but don't want a lemon that's going to gradually drain my wallet. Also have a young family and safety is a concern as well. I will be looking to keep this car for a long time so low re-sale value isn&#146;t a big concern. Let me know if you think I should pull the trigger? Also what do you think a FMW ballpark price for this car is? My in-law doesn&#146;t want a lot of money for it but I want to make sure he gets a fair deal.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    You have to keep in mind that internet forums are an extremely small sample of enthusiastic owners. If they have a problem they post it enthusiastically like every car of that make and model has that problem. You can get a more accurate view of the relative reliability of a car through professional reliability ratings such as:

    http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/reliability.aspx?year=2001&make=Mitsubishi&model=Diamant- e

    Note that the survey says the 2001 Diamante, along with all second generation Diamantes, has the highest reliability rating possible. My experience with my two Diamantes has been excellent.

    The heater core problem seems to be a rare issue where a gasket leaks. The actual part is cheap, but getting to it can be difficult, though some owners have posted on the Diamante Owners Group website a procedure to remove the heater core without removal of the dash. This problem does not show up on any industry-wide reliability rating, so I doubt it is a major issue.

    I have not found parts to be any more expensive than other imports. You can get parts for wholesale through http://www.parts.com/index.cfm?action=subCategories&categoryID=1&subCategoryID=24

    The transmission hesitation is not a defect. It is a characteristic of the shift pattern program where a sudden throttle flooring at around 25MPH may not cause a downshift as may be expected by those looking to jump into a hole in traffic. The Diamante has great low-end torque, so the transmission program is not as rev-happy as would be for an engine that needs high RPMs for power. In my 6 years of driving my Diamante, I have not had any problems with the transmission shifting characteristics. You should go drive the Diamante and decide for yourself.

    The brake problems you read about in forums happens to any car. Mechanics routinely overtorque lug nuts and than can distort the rotor which will cause it to wear unevenly leading to brake pulsation about 3,000 miles later. Read all about it at http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article2.htm

    As to value, you can check it here at Edmunds, as well as at www.kbb.com. Just make sure you put in all the details and mileage correctly and fairly rate the condition of the car. You would use "private party value" to determine a fair price when buying from an individual.

    Since you have a lot of direct knowledge about the Diamante in question, I would say it would be an excellent opportunity to buy a great used car at a fair price. If you love the way the car looks and drives, I say go for it.

    Mr. Vivona
  • glaraglara Member Posts: 1
    My '99 Diamante with 68,000 miles intermittently produces a harsh jerking/shudder/vibration when in fourth gear at speeds between 40-50 mph. The teeth-chattering vibration stops when I stop accelerating. My mechanic cannot reproduce the phenomenon, and I am worried it is the transmission. :confuse:

    I had the 60,000 mile service not too long ago, and I spent a lot of money to have all the required (and the recommended timing belt replacement) work performed. Has anyone else experienced this vibration/shudder in their D's or suspect what might be the cause???

    Thanks for any help you might offer.
  • mzkylah21mzkylah21 Member Posts: 1
    i just recently purchased a 1995 Diamante Es and the radio is not working something about entering a code....where do i find the code to make it work?
  • david51david51 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Diamante and love this car.
    replaced the rear pads this weekend but noticed the rotors are shot and
    need to be done... does anyone know how hard it it to replace them.
    Thanks to all
  • gtroopgtroop Member Posts: 85
    Check the glove box, I keep mine in a folder with the owner's manual. If its not there contact the previous owner or the dealership where you purchased the car. If these places don't work you might need to drop by your local Mitsubishi dealer and have them look the code up for you.
  • minneapolisgirminneapolisgir Member Posts: 1
    Recently, I have been having problems with my heater core. I am wondering if you know where on the Diamante Owners Group site the procedure is listed to remove the heater core without removing the dash. I have looked and looked and I cannnot find it!!! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    The Diamante Owners Site is currently down for upgrade, but I had some of the articles copied into a Word document, so here is what I have:

    MITSUBISHI MOTORSALES OF AMERICA, Inc.
    6400 KATELLA AVENUE
    CYPRESS, CALIFORNIA 90630-5208
    (714) 372-6000 (310) 493-1235
    TELEFAX (714) 373-1020
    TELEX 683453
    MAILING ADDRESS:
    P.O. BOX 6400
    CYPRESS, CALIFORNIA 90630-0064
    The next release of Tech Talk will have the following information regarding a possible fix for heater core leakage. We wanted to get this information to you as soon as possible due to the increased demand we are seeing on the heater core.

    Group 55 Heater, A/C, Ventilation

    Heater Core Gasket Availability 1997-2002 Diamante.
    Heater core leakage may be caused by damaged gaskets between the heater core tank and the connecting pipes. Replacement gaskets are now available (p/n MR925655).
    One yellow gasket is included per package.

    ===============================================================
    This was posted by an owner on the Diamante Owners website:
    Hey guys, today I took on the task of fixing the heater core in my D of course you know it was just the o-ring but I figured why replace with a part that I know will screw up again, so I tried adding in a black o-ring along with several beads on red RTV high temp silicone. I ran out of daylight , so I didn&#146;t get the chance to reassemble my dash, but Just wanted to let you guys know that no you don&#146;t have to take your whole dash apart to get the heater core out and no you don&#146;t have to disconnect any a/c hoses, let me explain and if you have done the heater core on your own then you&#146;ll understand.

    Take entire under part of dash out, and the wood grain center, radio, clock ashtray etc, under the dash there is a box that the a/c line runs into this looks similar to the heater core same principle but makes cold air blow into car, anyway this is a two piece plastic box with about 8 metal clips around it, take out the clips and the box comes apart, this is of major importance. Disassemble metal dash unibody pieces under and behind radio, and take the nuts for the heater core box off of firewall, four nuts, with some tricky maneuvering you can turn this box then take out three screws holding heater core feed line in place, voila! heater core comes out. Anyway back to the experiment with the different o-rings and rtv silicone.it must set up for 24 hours, and for added security I am fabricating a splash shield for my ECU, just in case she doesn&#146;t hold, but if it works I will let you know, or doesn&#146;t, by the way total cost so far is estimated at 2.50.

    Hey rather than 900 labor from those thieves at the dealership, of the 15.00 a piece for the replacement faulty o-rings (two needed) I think I came out pretty good, almost too good, that&#146;s why I putting a cover on my ECU, hate to try to save a few bucks then fork over 1500 for a new brain, hell I&#146;m surprised it still works it was covered in antifreeze.

    ===============================================================
    Another posting about replacing the gaskets:
    Well, I finally got around to changing the heater core O-rings on my 2001 Diamante. Thinking about doing it was worse than actually doing it, not being sure if I could really get at the o-ring though the glove box, but it works. Hopefully, the procedure will work for the other 2nd generation cars as well.

    The most surprising thing that I found was that I believe that the leak was caused simply by loose screws where the pipes attach to the heater core.

    None of the screws were very tight. At this point, I'm not totally sure. The car started leaking about a month ago (the "sweet" odor, the vapor on the windsheild, etc.). Within a day or so, I put in some "Barr's Leak", to seal it up. The leak was definitely improved, though I could still smell the odor. I think that's normal. However, there is still a possibility that the actual core was leaking. If that's the case, there is also a good chance that the Barr's Leak will seal that up, more or less permanently. I didn't change the heater core. It's just that if the leak is simply loose screws, the flexing of the hoses (from the engine movement) could eventually loosen the screws more so that it would leak with the sealant. I'm not certain that the root cause was the loose bolts.

    I had a 79 Mustang that had a leak on the heater core, and found that the whole dash had to come out, so I tried the coolant sealant and it worked for the next 3 years that I owned the car.

    So, anyway, taking a hint from someone that posted here on the forum, that you don't need to remove the whole dash (I'd give him credit but the posting is gone from the "Heater Core Problems" that was on the forum).

    NOTE: This procedure allows you to change the heater core o-rings. I don't believe that you can actually remove the heater core from this procedure. I believe that the Instrument panel (dash) needs to come out for that.

    So, anyway, here's a procedure that should help if you want to attempt it yourself.

    As usual, no guarantees, you attempt this at your own risk.

    1. Disconnect the negative side of the battery. You'll be working around the passenger side air bag and you don't want that to go off!!!

    2. Order 2 (TWO) O-Ring gaskets, Mitsubishi Part Number MR927776, they were $2.65 each on-line + $9 shipping. For what it's worth, it appears that the newer ones are a different design. The original (from my 2001 D) has a ridge around the outer perimeter on one side only (though it could have been flattenend out from being installed). The new ones have a ridge around both sides, so I assume they seal better. HOWEVER, I just noticed another post that indicated that the TSB listed the MR925655 part. (Hope I didn't put in the wrong gasket!!!)

    3. Get the freon removed from the car. (I have a friend that removed and will recharge the system for me).

    4. Make sure the engine is cool. Drain the anti-freeze. You don't need to jack up the car. Put a pan under the front right of the car and reach down between the engine and radiator and turn the white plastic valve a few turns, and let it drain straight down, be patient (Don't remove the valve). Once the fluid is drained, tighten the valve again. You'll get about 1 gallon of anti-freeze mix.

    5. Remove ONLY one of the two heater hoses, closest to the passenger side, on the firewall. The other heater hose doesn't have to come off. I used a pointed nose pliers to squeeze the clamp, and pulled it back over the hose. You may have to turn the clamp to get good access. Put a towel below the hose to catch the coolant that will leak out and twist and then pull the hose off.

    6. Remove the 10mm bolt from the smaller AC line at the firewall, behind the engine, as well as the bolt that helps to attach the same line to the firewall (for extra play when sealing the line).

    7. Remove the 12mm nut from the larger AC line at the firewall. I found that a long extension and a flex
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    All of my previous message did not post, so here is the balance of the information:

    8. Seal the ends of the AC lines (I used plastic bags and rubber bands) to keep any debre out.

    9. Remove the rubber hose with the 90 degree bend located slightly to the right of the AC lines. This is the AC condensation drain hose.

    NOTE: When working under the dash, it helps to have a knee pad or something to kneel on.

    10. Moving inside the car, Remove the Under Cover assembly below the glove box. There are 3 plastic fasteners that pull straight out.

    11. Remove the Glove Box (2 Phillips screws) and then the glove box frame (4 Phillips screws). Use pointed nose pliers to remove the tabs that hold the wire to the top of the frame, and use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the connector on the top of the glove box frame. This connector goes to the passenger side air bag. Handle with care!

    12. Remove the metal frame bracket from under the glove box, being careful not to damage the wire to the light switch. Use a fine tipped screwdriver to pry the small connector catch (wrapped in foam to keep from rattling) so that connector pulls apart easily.

    13. Remove the left side heavy "Z" brackets from the round tubular frame from above the evaporator unit. The one on the right side doesn't have to come off, it won't be in the way.

    14. Remove the 2 12mm bolts at the top of the AC Evaporator and the 12mm nut at the bottom. Also disconnect the two connectors that are on the side of the evaporator.

    NOTE: You do not need to remove clips that hold the two halves of the evaporator housing, nor the black connector block on the right side, nor the black plastic piece on the left side of the box. NOTE: The fan assembly on the right side does NOT need to be removed.

    15. Pull the carpet back to make some extra room and so that when some of the AC oil leaks out, it won't get on the carpet.

    16. Now comes the tough part, getting the evaporator housing out. (i.e.: 10 lb evaporator, 5 lb opening!!). Pull it forward some, then bend the front down (toward the floor) and pull it around. Takes a bit of playing, but it will come out. There will be a bit of AC oil that drains out on the floor, but with the carpet pulled back, just wipe it off the underlayment floor surface. Shouldn&#146;t be more than about 1/4 oz.

    NOTE: After re-installing the evaporator, I think that it might be wise to bend the metal bracket that holds the left side of the glove box (attached to the center console inside supports) back and out of the way. This should not only help in getting the box out, but also back in (which is WORSE than trying to get it out!)

    17. Looking up to the left, you'll see the hoses that are connected to the heater core. You won't be able to remove the heater core, but you will be able to remove the 4 screws (#20 torx head) from each of the two hose blocks. BUT FIRST put 2 or 3 towels on the floor (stuff them around the metal brackets) to keep the coolant from draining into the floor mats.

    18. You will be able to remove the upper black plastic hose end (twist it upward), but the other metal pipe is fairly firmlly entrenched. There is enough room to remove the plastic bracket between the hose and the heater core though, along with the o-ring.

    19. Spend some time cleaning up the anti-freeze from the area to help get rid of the smell, or it may be around for a long time. I did note that they put a piece of plastic on the top of the ECU (under the foot distributor duct) so reach in with a paper towel and wipe it off. There was some discussion on the board about covering it completely, but my concern (being an electronics engineer) that if you seal it too tight, it won't be able to cool as well as it needs to. Anyway, I used a squirt bottle to put some water around the heater core, but it doesn't drain out. Soak up the water with paper towels. (Anyone have a better idea on how to clean up?)

    NOTE: There is a plastic bezel that goes between the lower hose connection on the heater core, which surrounds the lower o-ring. There are some square prongs that stick out. These prongs go toward the heater core. Look at the upper plastic hose connection, it's essentially the same, but the piece with the prongs is not removable.

    20. I would suggest that when you are putting the heater core screws back in, with the new gaskets, that you add a touch of a medium strength lock-tite to the screws so there's less chance that they will work their way out again. Remember that the screws go into a plate of aluminum, about 1/8 inch thick.

    DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!

    21. Be careful when putting the evaporator back in, not to damage the fitting surface. When re-installing the AC lines, don't over tighten. They are aluminum fittings. Handle with care.

    22. Getting the evaporator box back in is worse than trying to get it out. You're on your own here. I ended up breaking the black plastic bracket behind the left glove box support (so I bent the metal bracket back, as mentioned above). I just glued it back into place with a good epoxy. No one will ever see it.

    Reassembly is the reverse. Use new Anti-Freeze to replace what you've drained.
  • kninknin Member Posts: 5
    Just purchase a 98 Diamante yesterday (8/9/05) but didn't come with owner's manual. I'm thinking of buying one on ebay, but in the meantime, I want to do some maintenance work on it (oil change, spark plugs, etc). Can someone tell me what the recommended oil grade is for this vehicle and what the mile interval should be between each oil change? Also, what's the recommended octane fuel grading? Finally, I'm also experiencing vibration when braking but as I was making turns on the highway at 60-65 mph, I felt a "swing" or looseness at the tail end of the car more than once that made me apprehensive. I read on consumerguide.com that the Diamante "suffers marked body lean in tight turns", can this be related to what I'm experiencing? Thanks in advance for your input, I appreciate it.

    KNIN
  • rockawaykidrockawaykid Member Posts: 8
    Good car; mine has 156,000 now. I use 20-50W or whatever my mechanic puts in it. After all it is just a Japanese 6 cylinder like any other. Change time? after 5,000 miles or maybe less. It just depends on whether I have to bring it in for anything else. But now a days I am getting convinced you cant do that too often (as in 3,000miles). 87 Octane works fine. the deciding factor is if you get ping.
    I dont quite understand the cornering thing but this is a strong engine with front wheel drive which isnt a great match in my opinion. Thats why race cars are still rear wheel drive.
  • rockawaykidrockawaykid Member Posts: 8
    Good car; mine has 156,000 miles. Car is assembled in Australia. Relatives over there call it a cadillac.
  • monireemoniree Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1992 diamante that is smoking. I am trying to figure if it is white smoke or blue (like everyone says to look for,) it seems to look more white. Anyway, it smokes after I drive a few miles, and when idiling. (Not usually when it is first started.) Its obviously burning oil. I took it to a mechanic that only looked at the smoke and said valve seals- $400. So, a guy wanted to buy the car and he took it to his mechanic, that once again by only looking at the smoke said piston rings - and said it was cheaper to replace the engine then to change piston rings. Then I read some past forums on diamantes that says that the valve guide goes bad and can cause it to smoke.
    So, I am confused on what it really is, and @ how much to fix. Any ideas appreciated. (V6 engine.) Also, other than that, car runs great! (I think it may have a small power steering fluid leak, I have to add fluid sometimes.) But like I said runs great other thank smoking.
    Thanks in advance!
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Hello,
    My local Mitsu dealer has an '04 Diamante LS with 15K miles on it on his pre-owned lot. The car is gold, and has beige leather interior. It is a sharp looking car, and he is asking $15,900 for it. I am curious to hear from some of the owners of newer model Diamantes as to whether or not you would reccomend the car to others. Has anyone had any major problems with these cars, or have most experiences been good? I have an Outlander, and have had a really good experience with the dealership. I know the Diamante was discontinued, and I am not worried about resale - I would just like feedback from owners as to how your cars have held up since you have owned them.
  • urrrlacherurrrlacher Member Posts: 1
    The last two times it has rained I can not start my 2001 diamante until it dries out. Car has 95,000 miles and has been well maintained, new battery. Any help would be great.
    Thanks Jeff
  • stemogstemog Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Diamante and have been having trouble with the traction control. I'll be driving down the highway and all of a sudden lose the throttle with the engine still running and the TCL light starts flashing. I can't turn the TCL switch on or off while the engine is still running, but if I turn off the engine and re-start it, then turn it off it reads TCL off. Anyone have any idea if this is a computer problem or some sort of sensor problem? Thank you in advance.
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