Mitsubishi Diamante

377paul · August 2010

Two situations that I've encounter had the same symptoms:
1) The trunk light switch stayed on
2) The radiator A/C fan temperature control switch failed and turned the fan on for
no apparent reason

377paul · August 2010

FRONT OF CAR
(RADIATOR)

#1 #3 # 5

#2 #4 #6

FIRING ORDER IS 123456
_________________________________

#1 DISTRIBUTOR WIRE IS THE TOP ONE JUST IN FRONT OF THE CAP CENTERLINE WHEN LOOKING DOWN ON THE CAP WHILE LEANING OVER THE ENGINE FROM THE FRONT BUMPER.

mrcandoitman · August 2010

i'm in need of a used automatic transmission for my 94 Diamante ES sohc.
I believe 95 yr. will work to. can pay 3 or 4 hundred i have tried local (central valley ca) but not one to be found .most dealers want 600.00 or more plus 250.00 shiping.
any ideas on were i can get one for what i have to spend would be appreciated . have tools will travel anywhere in ca.
thanks, mrcandoitman

Kirstie_H · August 2010

The problem is that you're talking (here) to other Diamante owners, who probably have vehicles in working condition. Maybe someone will have ideas for you, but it seems you'd have better luck at a salvage yard. If you're looking for one, you might try our discussion on Salvage Yards.

mrcandoitman · August 2010

thanks kriste h

scottybailey · May 2011

Hi,

To retain the vehicle's memory settings and radio code, it is possible to swap over to a new battery, without interrupting power.

This is done using suitably rated jumper cables (whilst old battery is still in place, but removing the battery's 'security' clamp first):

Place new battery somewhere stable, in close proximity to old battery.

connect one end of "+" jumper cable to the "+" terminal of new battery;
Connect "-" jumper to the to the "-" terminal of new battery.

Then, connect other end of "+" jumper to the metail clamp of vehicle's "+" (RED) battery cable (this will maintain the connection during changerover);
connect other end of "-" jumper to the metal clamp of vehicle's "-" (BLACK) battery cable.

As long as these jumper cables are securely attached to their respective clamps, you can then undo the nuts of the battery clamps and move the vehicle cables aside (just enough to take the old batter out, and put the new battery in its place) - if done correctly, power should still be connected.

Move the old battery out and put the new battery in its place.

Clamp the vehicle battery cables onto the new battery terminals (making sure the RED clamp goes to "+" terminal & BLACK clamp goes to "-" terminal) and tighten the nuts.

You can then remove the jumper cables from the battery leads, one at a time.

Cheers,

scottybailey · May 2011

Hi,

When various warning lights (Engine, ABS, TCL, Airbag & Transmission) illuminate, this indicates that codes have been stored on your vehicle's computer.

Have your vehicle's computer checked for the codes first, then you can work on their respective components.

Here are a couple of the most common TCL codes and their respective components:

Code 71: Vacuum Control Solenoid Valve
Code 72: Ventilation Control Solenoid Valve

To test either solenoid, use an Ohm meter and measure the resistance across the electrical terminals of the solenoid. Each solenoid should measure between 36-44 Ohms. If out of specification, then replace the suspect solenoid. Reset the computer (either by removing the ECU fuse or disconnect negative battery terminal for 20sec's), then check for further diagnostic codes.

If both solenoids are within spec, but same codes still trigger, then it is likely to be excessive ignition signal interference down the TCL solenoid LOOMS. In this case, follow Mitsubishi's Service Bulletin procedure of installing a Noise Filter on the distributor harness, as outlined in the procedure.

Note: both of these solenoids are usually attached to each other (via vacuum hoses), connected by wiring looms (usually situated on a metal bracket, on the firewall).

Scott

gregsavet · July 2011

I have a 2001 Diamante and got everything I needed at crutchfield.com they are they best online audio source out there and they have a great supprt team that is there t help. I now am running a Alpine 103BT head unit and have other upgrades the only issue is that the trunk does rattle too much and getting it to not rattle is being a pain any suggestions other than getting rid of the subs

scottybailey · July 2011

Hi there,

This is quite a common issue when running subs.

Firstly, you need to consider two factors:

1) Sound Quality

When I was with Kenwood Car Audio, we were constantly preaching the importance of "clean" signal. So, first I need to ask the quesiton, "Have you had your head unit professionally tuned to the subs?" By this, I mean are you aware of the 'optimum' volume setting on your head unit, before the signal starts distorting? If no, then you risk running a clipped signal to the amps, which will in turn, multiply the distortion through your subs. If you aren't sure, then I recommend before you start spending money on fixing the vibration issue, have your entire sound system "tuned" to provide a clean signal. If vibration is still evident, the proceed with the next stage.

2) Rattle of body components

Now that you have fixed the signal issue, we need to address vibration...

The Vibration/rattle you are experiencing is two materials rubbing against each other, therefore it would be most prominent where there are gaps.
Your main task is to trace where this rattle is ocurring, but sometimes the source can be quite misleading. So, first you need to check any 'loosely attached' panel parts such as the 'REAR NUMBER PLATE', external plastic garnish panels etc (see polystyrene idea below).

Do the following checks, while running your subs:

Check for various plastic mouldings clipped in and around the boot area - remove one plastic moulding at a time to identify / eliminate any rattle.

Then, visually check from the rear of the vehicle, to see if your boot lid is lined up with the body - if not, try adjusting the body striker to re-align the boot. Ensure the boot hinge bolts are tight enough (if rattle stops after tightening hinge bolts, then consider using a locking compound to prevent the bolts loosening again).

If the vibration is still ocurring, you will need to trace the vibrations by using a stethoscope type device (or screwdriver etc) between your ear and the panels. Move your listening device to various areas of the boot & parcel shelf frame, to locate any source of rattling.

If you were to remove the upper lining inside your boot, you will see the 'skeleton' frame which maintains the integrity of the boot lid - sometimes, manufacturers inject a foam in certain areas between the frame and skin which helps prevent the two parts touching when the boot lid flexes....this is one area I recommend you inject new expanding foam, if it proves to be the culprit.

Also, your bootlid torsion bars should be checked that they aren't touching anything they shouldn't (while the boot is closed). If so, then try wrapping just enough sound deading material in that area, to prevent touching of parts.

Don't forget to use the listening process to identify the most prominent areas of vibration, as this will reduce the amount of time and expense. Look for anywhere there are joins or flexing of metal parts.

Finally, one trick I personally like is..........obtain some of those small polystyrene packing foam pieces. Insert these polystyrene bits in between any suspected gaps/joins until the rattle stops. Once you find the culprit spot, remove the foam pieces one by one (starting from the first, and work your way to the last) - this will identify other suspect gaps. You will now know which spots require deadening.

Most common materials which help in sound proofing are:

- Black Urethane
- Dynamat (most popular - look on Ebay)

.....or any Tar based foam, with adhesive backing

Hope this has been helpful,

Cheers,

Scott

gregsavet · July 2011

This is very helpful. When they hooked up my radio they had it tuned but it sounded like SH** it didn't sound good at all. I made it about a mile down the road and pulled into a parking lot then started going though the radio settings they had the sub woofer setting up all the way which was making it bass heavy. They had the bass audibles at a high setting which made me only hitting the high notes so i fixed that then I had to adjust the treble also. So after I made the adjustments it was clear and was hitting the lower notes also.

As for the vibration or rattle I honestly believe that it is just where the bass is hitting so hard I will check all that you listed in there and making sure that all the bolts are tight. I really am not wanting to go and put foam and all that I am older and its really not that big of an issue I am not going to be doing sound shows or anything like that. I would really like for the trunk not to rattle as much so a question that I have is it better to have a custom box built for the car. Also I had to rewire how they had the subs wired they looped them to bridge the amp and I didn't want that I have a powerful enough amp for the subs. The sound quality is awesome inside of the car and to the front and sides of it but just the rear of the car I don't like the sound of the rattle.

scottybailey · July 2011

Hi again,

The most common way is to wire the subs in BRIDGED form - this multiplies the RMS power to a certain degree. Just to explain: If your subs are maximum 1000W output, and your amp is capable of 1000W, this does not mean you have compatable power ratings. You must refer to the RMS values of both subs and amps,

e.g. if your sub is maximum 1000w, but has in "input power" of say 750w RMS (ie continuous power at all times), then you should aim to run amp power of an equivalent RMS value (or within 75% of that value). This will drive the subs efficiently.

Sometimes bridging will achieve higher RMS power and you just 'tweak' the GAIN control downwards until you get it right (NEVER INCREASE GAIN CONTROL UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING!!!!!!) - notice that was in capitals? Too many people play with the Gain control, thinking it increases volume - if adjusted too high, it will COOK your sub coils (this is what causes smoking).

So....I only recommend you rewire your system ONLY if you understand what your'e doing.

I had assumed you already had these subs in a suitable enclosure?

Where I come from, it is illegal to cut holes in the rear of the vehicle (or parcel tray) for mounting subs - we have to use enclosures. If your subs are mounted into the vehicle, this will cause all sorts of resonance issues.

So, YES - I recommend a custom enclosure. Enclosures can also be 'fine-tuned' to the vehicle's cavity (pro car audio installers will have access to formulae which can calculate air space inside your boot area, depending on how large you want it). You can then choose if you want a ported or non-ported enclosure. Using an enclosure means the subs aren't physically touching the car's body.

However, due to the extreme air pressure created by the subsonic frequencies, there will still likely be some rattle/vibration issues, if your panels or joints have gaps which can rub or vibrate together.

The tar based adhesive sponge is just like a stick-on tape, which you can attach to most surfaces.

This is entirely up to you...

Scott

gregsavet · July 2011

Hey Scott whats going on. I understand what all that mans. I am only running the gain half way I tweaked it and this is where it hits the best. The main reason I took it anywhere in the begging was cause I was being lazy and didn't feel like messing with it. LOL However I am thinking that I do need to get a custom enclosure I will then have more room cause the box i have is huge and I barley can get my golf clubs n there.

hatchet · September 2011

just a note.. u do not have to strip the diamante dash to remove the heater core, have done it twice now

kevinsdiamante · September 2011

Has anyone ever experienced their Diamante missing one mile and the next mile not? I hardly drive mine due to the fact I ride a Goldwing almost everywhere, but when I have to drive in the rain from home, I will drive the D. My D will not miss when I start it and drive it a few miles, then it will start missing, other times, it will miss from the start, then clear up and run fine after a few miles. Any ideas out there?
thanks,
Kevo
1997 Mits Diamante w/120k

maxoutput · October 2011

You guys only have the 97 3.5 V6 autos on here..What about the other models.
I have a 97 2.5 V6 5 speed tiptronic. you need to add thses to your comsumer posts so i can add my post. And did you know that the 97 Diamante has factory built in GPS..that actually works. I live in New Zealand and it even works here...lol

scottybailey · October 2011

Gidday Maxoutput,

WOW ! That's awesome to hear your GPS is working !

Where in NZ are you? I'm in Wellington and would love to see your GPS working. I presume it's the touchscreen? Does it show the NZ maps too?

Your transmission is actually the F5A51, which is an amazing piece of technology, but requires many regular fluid changes to prevent premature wear & tear.

Let me know where you're at - drop me an sms sometime (021 169 4760).

Cheers,

Scott

aeraphis · December 2011

call the Mitsubishi dealer and tell them what you need they will give you a number to call and they can give you the access code the $40 dollars everyone is talking about is to get the car radio out to read the number in all honesty its easy to remove take the # off the radio and they give you the code i wasnt paying $40 why should anyone

kevinsdiamante · December 2011

OK, I broke down and installed new plug wires/plugs/dist cap and rotor that took care of all the missing. I never did this before since the wires only had about 25k on them anyway, just took a chance, guess the Autozone lifetime wires I bought were junk to begin with. Now it just leaks oil like a seive, more on that later. Already replaced many "O" rings, just have to replace them all I guess, AAck!
cheers,
Kevo

Mitsubishi Diamante

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