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Mitsubishi Diamante

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Comments

  • padgett37padgett37 Member Posts: 1
    I currently own a 1997 Diamante Es and have had nothing but problems with it. The car shifts hard between the 2nd and 3rd gear and stutter shift like it can't tell what gear it wants. I have taken it to the shop a number of times and they can't seem to find out what the problem is. They either say they can't feel the hard shift or they say that the brain box needs to be reprogrammed. They reprogrammed the computer once and it seems to help for awhile, but it’s now doing it again. I've read a lot of reviews from people that seem to be having the same problem, but they never seem to say if they cured the problem. The dealership seems to act like they have never seen this problem before, but by reading all the article on this problem that Mitsubishi must have an idea what the problem is but won't own up to it. If you have any suggestions or information on this problem and how it can be solved please let me know. You can email me at gary@gptc.com.
  • dkrazydkrazy Member Posts: 14
    To the person who can't turn the key in the ignition. That has happened to me also. When it does I turn the steering a little bit and it works fine after that. Hope this helps. I have almost 15K on my 2000 and I am still very pleased. I have paint scratches that show up but its not too bad. Don't think that chipping paint will change if you buy another type car either. I know for a fact that the Acura 3.2 has paint problems as well. My boss's car had paint scratches and now its rusting and his car is brand new.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    yabba - The Diamante transmission is designed to not shift into 1st until after you stop and begin starting off again. The AT computer knows you are coasting to a stop because of the signals received from the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and the Accelerator Switch.

    The first thing to check is the Accelerator Switch. On a 1993 it should be a microswitch mounted on the arm connected to the gas pedal under the dash. If you look under the dash at the gas pedal arm you should see the switch mounted so that it is actuated when the pedal is at rest. If this switch is defective, the transmission computer will think you are slowing, but not stopping, and the AT will shift into 1st instead of staying in 2nd and you get a clunk. A continuity check with an ohmmeter will verify if the switch is defective or not. If the switch is okay, the next thing is to check the TPS. They can go bad on a high mileage car. Checking takes a digital voltmeter following a procedure found in the factory shop manual.

    Mr. Vivona
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    padgett37--Have your dealer verify that the procedure in Service Bulletin 97110123014 has been done.

    Mr. Vivona
  • edwardoplunketedwardoplunket Member Posts: 31
    Have you ever considered upgrading to an HID system? The 9006 low beam bulbs in 97+ D's have axial filaments which is SUPPOSED to allow for proper beam correction when installing an aftermarket HID system. Any thoughts?

    Ed
  • rgarcia3rgarcia3 Member Posts: 1
    Our 97 Diamante with factory security has started giving false alarms - what little I know is that these alarms trigger on current changes and generally difficult to fix. In this regard, car has a new battery and otherwise in good condition. Will you please comment on what may be causing false alarm triggers (occur both day and night)!!
    Thanks.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I haven't considered HID for my Diamante. I find the factory headlights to be fine as to coverage. Many people change to HID for the additional light coverage or just the "cool look" of the bluer light. When changing to aftermarket HID, you can go for bulbs that look like HID or you can pay extra and upgrade to actual HID headlights.

    If you just replace the bulbs, you must be sure that the current draw and heat dissipation of the new lamps do not exceed the original ones. The easiest way is to make sure the actual wattage rating is the same as the original bulbs. Here's a web site that offers HID-look bulbs: http://www.eurolights.com/

    Actual HID systems draw less current but require you to buy the ballast and related wiring. Here is a web site that has the 9006 for $599: http://www.hids4less.com/order.html

    I can't attest as to the quality of the products of either source, and there are surely many others out there. A bit of searching with a good search engine like http://www.metacrawler.com/ will find you a lot of HID sellers.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Finding the cause of a false alarm can be difficult. An alarm system triggers either due to a signal received from a sensor, an electronic problem with the alarm computer, wiring problems or a problem with the electrical system.

    A dirty contact within a sensor (door, trunk, etc.) will fool the alarm into thinking that sensor has been activated. Same goes for the wiring and connectors for the sensors.

    Automotive computers can fail if the internal capacitors become defective. An electronics technician may be able to replace the capacitors if the computer can be opened for servicing (I haven't checked this). Be sure he replaces the capacitors with exact replacements. Here is an article on capacitor replacement for engine computers http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm Perhaps the same can be done for the alarm computer? While inside the unit, the tech can check for a cold solder joint. That can also cause intermittent problems.

    To check out the electrical system, rig up an alalog voltmeter to plug into the cigarette lighter and put it where you can monitor it. You are looking for sudden changes in voltage that may indicate a wiring problem. You can get an analog voltmeter from Radio Shack for about $10.

    A shop that specializes in alarms that has an electronic tech on staff may be able to help you find the bad part. Of course, they may also just try to sell you one of their alarms.

    Mr. Vivona
  • curtishall1curtishall1 Member Posts: 15
    Hey Mr. Vivona I recently recieved a brochure of the Verada Sedan (i.e the Australia Diamante version). I took a real close look at the brochure and there are some exterior styling differences but on the inside it is essentially same as the American model. The only interior difference is the 'tiptronic' transmission which I really feel the US model needs for the Electronic Adaptive Control Transmission. Go to the Mitsubishi of Australia website to order a brochure.
  • curtishall1curtishall1 Member Posts: 15
    Mr.Vivona yesterday I recieved the front and rear brake pads from Stillen. Metal Matrix front pads cost $59 and the rear pads cost $52. The front cross drilled rotors cost $279 and the rear rotors cost $273. I will order the rotors at the end of the week. I will post a message and tell you how they come out. Can't wait.
  • marak88marak88 Member Posts: 57
    I drive a 99 Galant ES, it has vibration ( it feels like its side to side) in the steering wheel between 70-80 mph (not while braking), I went a head and replaced all my old tires and wheels with new tires and wheel (I took it to tire place that has the GSP9700 by hunter tire balancing machine), I have also replaced the brakes and the rotors with brand new dealer parts, well, the car is still has the vibration between 70-80 mph, nothing seemed to help, does anyone have any ideas what is causing this vibration, (I don't want to keep on buying stuff for the car that It don't need). Mr. VIVONA do you have any idea about this problem?. I have always liked mitsubishi cars, but this one problem is driving me crazy.

    please help.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Vibration without the brakes applied is caused by a wheel imbalance, sidewall flex variation or a driveline part with too much runout. It cannot be caused by the brakes.

    When you had your wheels balanced on the GSP9700, it is important that the tech checked for wheel and rim runout. You can balance a wheel with excessive runout, but when it is on the ground the runout will cause vibration. Also, did the tech balance the wheel down to below 10 pounds of road force variation? Cars with a lot of unsprung weight can be balanced to 15-20 pounds of road force variation and be okay, but a car with low unsprung weight needs to be balanced down to 10 pounds or below. Just because the tech used a GSP9700 doesn't mean he knew what he was doing. I recommend your read all the technical stuff at http://www.gsp9700.com/ to educate yourself on the details so you can return to the tire shop and talk intelligently with them. You should always have the tire tech write the final balancing number (in pounds of road force variation) on the inside sidewall for your reference.

    If careful rebalancing doesn't help, try having each wheel spun on the car with a spin balancer to see if there is one that vibrates. Then you can look further for a bent axle or out of balance driveline part. If you get a vibrating wheel through spin balancing, swap it with another wheel to see if the vibration follows the wheel or axle. If it follows the wheel, then you are back to tire balancing. Keep in mind that a wheel balanced on a GSP9700 may vibrate when spun off the ground on a regular balancer or with a spin balancer because the GSP9700 has balanced the wheel taking into account variations in sidewall stiffness around the circumference of the tire and that only shows up when there is weight on the tire.

    To rule out transmission or engine vibration, get to the point of vibration and carefully slip the transmission into neutral for a few seconds and see if the vibration stops. If it stops, you may be dealing with an engine or transmission imbalance. If you use other than Mitsubishi ATF in the transmission (assuming you have an auto trans) it can lead to tourque converter lockup vibration. Also, a misfiring engine can feel like an unbalanced wheel at high speeds.

    And, in all cases make sure your wheels are removed and replaced ONLY using hand tools and a hand torque wrench for tightening to the correct wheel lug torque (65-80 ft lbs).

    I hope this helps. Let me know what you find.

    Mr. Vivona
  • marak88marak88 Member Posts: 57
    OK, I took the car back and they re balanced the tires ( the two front had 4 pounds of road force and the back left had 10 and the back right had 8 pounds, and all balanced out to 0.0 o./am), I took the car on the freeway and now the vibration is even slightly worse at 70-80 mph :( , I really don't know what to do any more, we have already ruled out the tarns. and the engine vibration by driving at 80 mph then put the car in neutral (still had the vibration), I'm going to have the axle checked next, then after that I'll be out of ideas, Mr. Vivona, if you can think of any other suggestions would you please let me know, I think that you know enough about mitsubishi cars that I think that you might guess what the problem might be.

    regards
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    If your Galant is still under warranty, I would get the Mitsubishi zone service manager to ride with you and give you his opinion. He has the authority to approve Mitsubishi spending money on further tests.

    Since the vibration didn't go away with a change of wheels and tires, and force balancing didn't help, you are probably looking at a driveline problem. You need to isolate where the vibration is coming from. One way is to try having each wheel spun separately on the car. That can be tricky, because if you just jack a front wheel up off the ground it will drop fully causing an unusual angle to the CV joints and they will vibrate even when okay. You have to jack up the car by the lower control arm so the axle angle is normal. With one front wheel properly jacked up and the other one on the ground, you can use the engine to run the car up to speed. A speedometer reading of 40 will equate to 80 for the wheel in the air. But 70-80 MPH is a dangerous speed to be running a tire, so you might want to have a shop do this that is experienced in checking out driveline imbalances. The rear wheels have to be spun with an on-the-car balancing machine.

    Another way of isolating where the vibration is coming from is by using an electronic mechanic's stethoscope. There are ones that have four separate microphones that you can clamp on suspension parts. Clamp one on each lower suspension arm and run the microphone cords carefully so they won't get caught up in any moving part. You listen through headphones as you drive. Perhaps the vibration can be heard and then you will know which wheel the vibration is coming from.

    You can have the hubs, CV joints and axles checked with a dial indicator micrometer for runout. I don't know the specification, but I would assume it should be less than .010

    If there is a shop that has a dynomometer you can have the wheels run up to speed while someone feels each area of the car for vibration.

    Finally, test drive another Galant to be sure the vibration you feel is unique to your Galant and not just the normal feel of going 80MPH.

    Finding the cause of vibration can be difficult and is beyond the scope of many mechanics. If you can find someone that specializes in it, you will be way ahead of the game of finding the cause.

    Mr. Vivona
  • mariposarosdamariposarosda Member Posts: 2
    Hey folks! My 1994 Diamante with 120,000 miles has been great so far, except for a problem that started a few weeks ago. The car is idling very low, at about 5,000 RPM when warmed up. Sometimes it even stalls when I first start it or when I come to a stop. I unplugged the battery overnight thinking that a computer might need to be reset, but to no avail. So, I did some research and found that a common problem on the Diamante is the failure of the idle speed control motor. This is according to carpoint.com's reliability report. It certainly sounds like the problem, given my symptoms.

    My question is whether or not you all think that this is the problem, and if any of you have ever encountered it. The part costs about 150 dollars on carparts.com. Is this something that's easy to install? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Start by cleaning the throttle body using the procedure in my article at:


    http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article3.htm


    If that doesn't work, the idle speed control motor should be checked. If it is found bad, then it should be replaced. You can get a Chiltons service manual from http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0801993156/o/qid=986999863/sr=8-2/ref=aps_sr_b_1_2/107-9158389-3359758 that may help you with the testing and replacement. If you are handy and want a detailed repair manual, get a quote from http://www.magauto.com/mitsubishi.htm for the Mitsubishi factory service manual for your 1994 Diamante. It will cost over $100, but it contains exact step-by-step repair instructions for everything.


    A low idle can be caused by other things, such as a vacuum leak, so testing before replacing parts is the only way to keep from just throwing money into it until you happen to hit the cause of the problem.


    Mr. Vivona

  • curtishall1curtishall1 Member Posts: 15
    Hey Mr. Vivona with the knowledge you have on the present Diamante do you have a repair manual for this automobile. If so, where did you get your manual from? I would like to know so I can get one for my Diamante.
  • twoof1twoof1 Member Posts: 308
    Check out the pre-release photo of the 2002 Diamante complete with "Carl Malden"

    nose treatement.

    http://www.autoshowny.com/newproducts1.cfm?manufac=Mitsubishi
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    You can get a factory Diamante Service Manual from your Mitsubishi dealer's parts department, or wholesale from http://www.magauto.com/mitsubishi.htm Expect to pay $120-150, but the manual is specific to your year of Diamante and is two books, each about 2 inches thick.


    You can get some value, but a lot less detailed information, from the Chiltons book at http://bn.com/ Search for ISBN 0801993156 It will cost less than $20.


    Mr. Vivona

  • galantdriver2galantdriver2 Member Posts: 11
    I realize that this is a diamante discussion, but desperation (and the realization someone might know what that they are talking about) has led me to post this question in this forum:
    I have a '01 galant esV6.
    symptoms:
    -regardless of temperature (outside and engine), the car rough idles when no load is imposed on it ie when in P or N and no AC
    -with no load, when car is revved above 3000 rpms it smooths out when in P or N
    -when it is in gear symptoms go away.
    -when AC is engaged symptoms go away.
    Any suggestions/solutions?
    Thank you for your time and advice, Mr. Vivona. Also thanks for the diamante owners for their patience.
  • Jason5Jason5 Member Posts: 440
    RE 2002 Diamante'... Hey gang.. I just checked the supplied link by twoof1 and wanted to reply. I was at the NY Auto Show this weekend and saw BOTH Diamante's... What is portrayed as a "red Galant" in the link, is actually called the 2002 Diamante' VR-X.. Look closely and you'll see it's not a Galant. Up close and personal it is sharp and it was right hand drive.. Looked under and sure enough--as those of you familiar with Mitsubishi nomenclature now--the VR-X is all wheel drive. No one either knew or would reveal any engine or horsepower upgrades..
    The silver 2002, despite the "Carl Malden" nose was extremely attractive.. They cleaned up the back a bit as well--I prefer it to the current edition. No substantive interior changes that I could see. FYI for those interested...
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Your car should still be under warranty (unless you have gone over 60,000 miles) so you could take it to the dealer and have them check it. But I will assume that you did and they can't find anything wrong.


    Your symptoms point to several possibilities:


    1. Though your car is too new to have a dirty throttle body, the symptoms are similar to that caused by a dirty throttle body. Check out: http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article3.htm


    2. You could have a vacuum leak. Vacuum is highest at idle. Look around for a cracked fitting or pulled off vacuum hose. Connect a vacuum gauge and set it where you can watch it as you drive. See if the rough idle starts at a particular vacuum level.


    3. The EGR valve or PCV valve could be defective. At idle the higher vacuum should close the EGR and PCV valves, but if it doesn't, the idle will be rough. But this doesn't easily explain why putting it in gear smoothes out the idle.


    4. You could have a bad or mis-adjusted Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) or Idle Speed Control (ISC). These can be checked with a multimeter or scan tool by a competent technician.


    The trickiest part of you problem is the fact that putting it in gear or engaging the AC smoothes out the idle. This may point to a defective sensor that is giving the engine computer fits. Have the dealer use a scan tool to check for error codes. That may start you in the right direction.


    Keep me updated on progress.


    Mr. Vivona

  • galantdriver2galantdriver2 Member Posts: 11
    Thankyou very much for your advice - they adjusted the base idle and told me that I shouldn't keep my steering adjusted so low - I'm short so I have the steering wheel at the lowest position. They suggested keeping the steering wheel not so low. I've asked them to run engine diagnosis and they said everything is ok, but they did have to reset the engine mounts under load. Do you know anything about and Engine Performance Base Idle diagnosis test? You think I should do that? I've checked the PCV valve myself and it's working fine. I'll keep at this, and I'll keep you posted.
    Once again, thankyou for you advice.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Shouldn't adjust the steering wheel so low? That's a new excuse on me! Did they give you a reason? The steering wheel is made adjustable to be just that, adjustable, and the idle is not affected by the position of the steering wheel.

    It is not good to adjust the idle without first carefully ruling out a cause of low idle. This is especially true if the idle was once okay and now it isn't. The only reason the idle speed can change over time is due to changes in things that affect the idle. Was your Galant idling fine at first, then developed the rough idle, or did it always do that? My concern is that they adjusted the idle without finding the cause of a low idle.

    What speed was your idle before the problem, during the problem and now that they have adjusted it?

    Tell me more about what you are calling the Engine Performance Base Idle diagnosis test. That term can mean several things. Who is offering to do this and what exactly does it consist of?

    And, you didn't say if the things they did fixed your problem. Did it?

    Mr. Vivona
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I will be offline for a week and not able to respond to messages. I will catch up as soon as I get back. See you all then!

    Mr. Vivona
  • L8_ApexL8_Apex Member Posts: 187
    One of the benefits of the new software is the ability to modify the titles of existing discussions. In some cases this is not necessary or even desired by the original author or those frequenting the discussion. However, we no longer need to recreate discussion at 500+ posts so the "Chapter this..." or "Part that..." is no longer necessary. So... as part of a topic title cleanup, those portions of the titles are being removed. The respective original topic in the archives is simultaneously being modified so that confusion isn't caused while searching.

    I'm also taking this opportunity to "more generalize" some topic titles to broaden their scope. For example, when the trim level, powerplant or transmission/transaxle option isn't pertinent to the comparison, I'm removing it for the purposes of making the topic applicable to the situations in which more buyers find themselves.

    Thanks,

    L8_Apex
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • galantdriver2galantdriver2 Member Posts: 11
    For the first 300 miles of my car's life, the idle was fine. then intermitently it would rough idle - the intensity and frequency was few and far between. after a 1000 miles the intensity and frequency grew - you could feel it especially if you put your knee to the console. Anyway, they said that keeping the steering wheel so low puts stresses on the steering column and the vibrations were being transferred by the steering column. adjusted base idle (and now i remember real reason why) was that the engine was shifting to early at 30 mph, sorry for mislead. the other day i opened the hood with the engine idling, and you could hear this hiss - i thought it was fan belts, but when i throttled the car up from the throttle body the hissing sound stopped. i let it idle, and the hissing (loud!) came back. I tried this several time - everytime it revved up, it would disappear. I think it's hissing what else would disappear when the engine was revved up. what do you think? am I hearing things? thanks for your advise Mr. Vivona.
  • simm4067simm4067 Member Posts: 1
    Hey Guys, I have a 00' Diamante with 12K miles on it. When the car idles I can hear a ticking noise coming from the engine. I had the car serviced by Mitsubishi and they told me that it was the fuel injectors and that the noise was normal. I also own the Montero Sport and two Galants and the Diamante is the only one that makes this noise. Has anyone else experienced this? I want to make sure it is supposed to be normal like the dealer told me.
    Thanks
  • shampton93shampton93 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99' Diamante with 45K miles on it. When the car idles I also hear a ticking noise coming from the engine. I had the car serviced by Mitsubishi and they told me that it was the fuel injectors and that the noise was normal. I have had no problems.
  • wheeler24wheeler24 Member Posts: 5
    I own a 2000 Diamante, 15K Miles, I also hear the ticking noise when the car sits idling. The engine is extremely quiet when idling and the ticking noise is very noticeable over the engine humm. I hope you guys are correct about it being the fuel injectors.
  • chrismitsuchrismitsu Member Posts: 2
    Applying my brakes at highway speeds and up causes moderate to severe vibrations coming from the front tires - i can feel this in the steering wheel. I'm thinking warped rotors but that's just a guess. Applying the brakes at slower speeds seems to be fine. The car has about 48K miles on it and has had the front breaks resurfaced once and i've had new brake pads put on some time ago. Any advice on what this could be and how much it might cost to fix, or if it is under warranty? Thank you in advance!

    Chris.
  • chrismitsuchrismitsu Member Posts: 2
    read mr. vivona's excellent "diamonds and pearls" article on brake pulsation. great stuff. thanks to vivona for that. so, i know what the deal is and what i have to mention to my mitsu dealer mechanic now (e.g overtightened lug nut check, rotor warping check, etc.)
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    A vacuum leak would make a hissing sound and certainly cause a rough idle. Without being able to actually hear your car, I will assume that the hiss is an abnormal amount. You could verify that by visiting your dealer and asking to listen to a Galant with the same engine.

    If you find the hiss to be excessive, you will need to locate the source. One way to do this is to cup your hands behind your ears to focus your hearing into a more directional beam. By moving your head around the engine bay and listening for the loudest hiss, you may be able to find the general source area. Then, hold a piece of rubber hose to your ear and move the open end around to more accurately locate the source of the noise. Be real careful that you do not put the hose or your hands near anything moving or that a piece of your clothing doesn't get pulled into the drive belts. If you locate the exact source of the hissing sound, you'll have to figure out why it is hissing. It could be a pulled off hose, a broken fitting, a ruptured diaphram or a loose connection.

    Let me know what you find.

    Mr. Vivona
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    See video and photos of the 2002 Diamante by following the link in the Additional Resources box on the left sidebar of this page. Let us know what you think.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
  • webjeff2webjeff2 Member Posts: 21
    It'll be interesting to see what the "performance upgraded" model has to offer at the beginning of next year but subjectively, I think that the "freshened styling" of the 2002 model is a step backward. Of course, I'll reserve my final judgement until I see one in person but I think that they've turned an already blandly styled car into an ugly one (at least from the front). Competition is very strong in this market segment and the annual Diamante sales are quite weak. Mitsubishi might be wise to start fresh with a new design, perhaps something based on an existing platform, in order to make this certainly a more cost effective car for them to produce and one that would be more competitive with others in this segment.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I, too, don't know if I like the look of the hood. My experience has been that cars look better in "person" than in pictures, so I am hoping that it looks better when I see one. I find the current Diamante very attractive, certainly better than most of the competition.

    Interesting, though, is a shot in the video. Right after the place where they show the 2002 Diamante from the rear there is a shot with a different hood. In that shot, the center piece goes up from the bumper, not down from the hood, and it looks better. Perhaps that shot is a 2002 Galant?

    Mr. Vivona
  • mkcmkc Member Posts: 20
    I agree with webjeff2 - the new hood/grille design isn't as pleasing and starting to drift into "Pontiac-ness". Something morphing towards the assertiveness of the Montero Sport's face would have really piqued my interest, though it might risk looking like the Lincoln LS (not that there's anything wrong with that - I like the LS's styling, particularly the snout). It would definitely say "luxury sport sedan", IMHO.

    Hope they consider "recontenting" the D with some of the little things I've heard have been eliminated - illuminated door switches being one. My '93 is still going strong, with 122K on it as of this morning, and some of those little touches (also the satin "wood" instead of seriously plastic-y high gloss) make it the standard I judge other makes against. Haven't yet sat in one I like nearly as well, unfortunately including the current D.

    MKC
  • ucscucsc Member Posts: 48
    Hi, Mr. Vivona:

    Could you give me some advice about how to check transmission fluid? How to determine whether I need to change it or not? If I have to change the fluid, is it difficult to change the fluid and filter kit?

    Thanks!

    UCSC
  • jalteriojalterio Member Posts: 5
    I didn't care for the new nose job on the 2002 Diamante. When the diamante resufaced in 97, it received car of the year. It was much better than the Acura, Millennia, Lexus of that time. However, the competition has evolved quicker than the diamante. I would like to see the new diamante carry over more hp, a manual tranny, sports package, and upgraded sport interior. Mitsu has the capability to produce a great luxury sport sedan.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I will assume you have a 97 or later Diamante. I am writing this without having the manual at hand, so I will be referring you to your owner's manual. You may find the Chiltons Diamante manual useful, too. You can get it at http://www.bn.com/ Search for title "Diamante".


    Make sure you are on level ground. To check the ATF, warm up the engine, run the gear selector through the gears and end up in neutral. Put on the parking brake. With the engine hot idling, pull out the transmission dipstick, wipe off the fluid, and re-insert it fully. Then pull it out and check the level of fluid showing on the dipstick. Unless you have a leak, the ATF will remain at the proper level from change to change. If it is low, add a little at a time through the same tube that the dipstick mounts in, using a long funnel specially made for ATF filling. Never overfill beyond the full mark.


    I would follow the owner's manual recommendation as to change frequency. When it is time to change the fluid, drain it and remove the spin-on filter mounted on top of the transaxle case. It looks a lot like an oil filter. Install a new filter by first wetting the filter o-ring with ATF and then tightening it according to the directions printed on the filter (usually 3/4 turn after it first contacts the mounting surface).


    Only use Mitsubishi ATF as identified in your owner's manual. Do not use other fluids because the Mitsubishi stuff is specially formulated for your transmission. I recommend using a Mitsubishi filter, too. ATF and the AT filter is not the place to economize with cheap stuff, so get the genuine stuff from your dealer.

  • surfing19surfing19 Member Posts: 46
    I was actually looking at the honda accord ex-v6, when i came accross the rebates that Mitus has out. I was curious if anyone has actually been able to get the 2001 Diamante LS at invoice which is $26390, - the $2000 rebate = 24390 and receive the 1.9%apr for 60months....

    Do you think a dealer will go for this offer?

    if so.. wow., i could be driving a diamante LS with a payment just above $400.. now that wouldn't be bad.
  • curtishall1curtishall1 Member Posts: 15
    I have a brochure on the 2002 Mitsubishi Diamante. I received it from Mitsubishi of Australia and the only three changes are the front and rear fascia which looks like a older model Pontiac Grand Prix. The last change is that it has a tiptronic transmission which allows you to switch from automatic to a clutchless manual mode. My feelings are if they don't improve the nonresponsive and inept transmission that is present now this idea will be a absolute failure. Also if they keep putting those downright cheap brake pads and rotors on the car that will be a downright shame especially knowing that the American consumers have complaining about those things ever since 1997. I suspect they'll keep doing same thing like they are now!
  • mariposarosadamariposarosada Member Posts: 54
    Has anyone ever adjusted the frameless windows on their 92-96 Diamante? I had the door trim off the other day to add sound-proofing material and couldn't figure out how to adjust the window. It's the driver's door. I know that the dealer could do it, and that it's in the factory service manual, but I can't really afford either. Any advice would be appreciated. I just don't want to make it any worse. Thanks all!
  • howardriverhowardriver Member Posts: 1
    My 92 Diamante has been an excellent car (a paean to you Diamante devotees). However, at the moment, in order to get heat, I must turn the temp wheel to maximum. After that, I can neither decrease nor shut off the heat (maximum low temp and air conditioner on - still a blast furnace). I replaced (myself) the climate control panel (center dash) with no improvement. Anybody experience this symptom? How was it fixed?
    Many thanks for advice.
  • taurus2taurus2 Member Posts: 63
    Where can you get a Verada brochure? I've been looking to get one. Is the 2002 Diamante going to look like this Verada?


    http://www.autospeed.com/C_articles/A_0721/P_1/article.html

  • curtishall1curtishall1 Member Posts: 15
    You can find a brochure on Mitsubishi of Australia website. You will also see some other vehicles Mitsubishi should import into the US Market.
  • curtishall1curtishall1 Member Posts: 15
    As I read peoples complaints about the Diamante brakes and rotor problems I start to think back about the time when Audi had there tragic problem with there transmissions in the 1980's. What is it going to take for Mitsubishi to realize that the brakes/rotors have a design or material flaw? What will eventually happen is someone will end up getting hurt or killed before they stop ignoring the problem. I wish I knew the email address for the automotive safety board so I could start a campaign to have the brakes and rotors recalled free of charge through all Mitsubishi dealers. I feel so so strongly about this that I am up for any ideals to bring this issue to the automotive safety board of the United States. Anyone with ideals please post your message so we can start a recall before someone gets hurt.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    I'm not sure if this is what you are looking for, but you can get lots of information on the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration board at this link: What is NHTSA?. Following the links in that article should give you contact information.

    Good luck - keep us posted on what you pursue and what happens.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards
  • curtishall1curtishall1 Member Posts: 15
    The first thing I did was contact the Department of Transportation Automotive Safety Hotline. The phone number is as follows 1-888-327-4236. For more information go to the website - www.nhtsa.dot.gov then go to Vehicle Owners Questionnaire. Once you call in your complaint about the Diamante brakes/rotor 1997-2001. They are obligated to call you back then you can direct them to Edmunds.com so they can take the next step to solve this issue. I urge everyone to call the DOT Automotive Safety Hotline starting MAY 29 WITH YOUR COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE BRAKE/ROTOR PROBLEMS. I HAVE ALREADY CALLED TODAY AND WILL CALL AGAIN ON TUESDAY MAY 29. PLEASE LETS STOP THIS PROBLEM ONCE AND FOR ALL. I WILL POST A MESSAGE AGAIN ON TUESDAY WITH MY FINDINGS.
  • twoof1twoof1 Member Posts: 308
    Well, after 3 1/2 years and 76,000 miles, I just sold my 1998 Diamante ES. I want to let anyone reading know that my ownership experience was a very positive one. The car was as solid as the day I bought it. Never a squeek, rattle or rough spot. The ONLY issue was having the rotors turned once and pads replaced twice. Other than that, the car was just as represented and performed flawlessly. While I enjoyed the ride, Mitsubishi needs to play catch up with the rest of the field. I bought this car for $20,000 as a used demo, and I sold it for $10,000 with 76,000 miles on it. Not a bad deal in my book. Thanks to all on this board for you help over the years.
    Vivona et al keep up the good work.
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