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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    In my past praise of the MPV I always complained the ashtray was too small - (pun) as I never had a problem with the van.
    The above posts did remind me that my two flat tires were a real pain with the spare. The first thought was "Where's the spare, I can't be this dumb?". The second one was "Who's the idiot that designed this?".
    We have no snow in Houston so salts corrosion is not a problem - it's laying down in a puddle half under the van getting the spare off the cable. I carry a jump suit in the van now just in case.
    And the ashtray is too small.....
  • mazda4x4van1mazda4x4van1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Mazda MPV 4x4, as soon as I click it out of 4 wheel drive into 2 wheel drive, it goes into 2wd and then right back into 4wd. I can't get it to stay in 2wd. Whats wrong with it???
    Thanks in adavance
  • sweet_subiesweet_subie Member Posts: 1,394
    enjoy the full time 4wd. just kidding !
  • burleyburley Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same problem. I have an '00 MPV that I just bought 2 weeks ago. At first the noise would only happen after I got to the first stop sign and after I accelerated, it would go away. However this morning, it was a little colder than normal, and it happened at almost every stop. Also, this morning was the first time I noticed the RPM's moving with the noise... Does anyone out there know what the IAC valve is and the cost of repair? (if that's what the prob is) I'm still under a 1,000 mile warranty from the dealership where I got the van but would like to know if it's worth the hassle or a quick fix.
    :)
    burleygirl
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    Repair cost at dealer could be around $200. You can probably buy the IAC valve itself for around $75, and many people have replaced it themselves - you can find details in other Mazda discussions. If you have warranty, you should definitely get it fixed under that. Mazda has a Technical Service Bulletin about it - 01-009/03 Foghorn/Moaning noise from engine compartment.
  • burleyburley Member Posts: 2
    I'm new to this forum stuff so thanks for spelling that TSB out for me...
    I just called my dealership and they said the part is $95 if I just wanted to change it myself... I think I'll be calling on that warranty. Thanks again.
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    If the van has rear heat, and has been in the snow belt, you might want to have the dealer check for corrosion of the coolant lines, particularly at the rear passenger side wheel well. Mazda TSB is 07-003/04 Corrosion on rear heater pipe. This is also a very expensive repair, and if at all you can get it taken care of under warranty, you will come out way ahead. The other corrosion related issue is the alternator, Mazda TSB 01-034/04 Battery charge lamp illumination, but they might not cover it unless there is an actual failure, because it is not obvious otherwise. Another pretty expensive repair, in terms of parts cost and labor cost.
  • heyu22heyu22 Member Posts: 1
    I have just had the same problem. I only have 40,000 miles on the vehicle. The cost for the part in Canada is $477 plus installation. My mechanic cut the cable, since the tire was part way down when the it broke. I can't find a used one anywhere. Any suggestions? I will pusure Mazda Canada.
  • bkkjackbkkjack Member Posts: 1
    I brought my 2000 MPV to Bangkok 4 years ago. It has about 55,000 miles and the check engine light has been on for awhile. My prior experience with this in Ca cars was that it was a emissions regulation and you needed to change the O2 sensor and have a dealer reset the light. Is there a way to just reset the light. I know that for some cars there is a sequence of turning the ignition on and off combined with pumping the brake pedal that will do it. Others need an expensive tool that only dealers and real mechanics can afford. Can anyone help?
  • garritsogarritso Member Posts: 1
    Any one had any experience with a clunking noise from the front suspension at LOW speeds? I have a 2000 MPV DX with 60,000 miles that recently started making this noise.
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    This is from another post, hopefully will help.

    You can unplug the negative battery terminal for a few minutes, then reconnect it. That will reset the codes and clear the check engine light.

    But if the check engine light comes back on again with the same code, then the only way to fix it is to replace the right rear O2 sensor.

    Even though the van drives fine, you still need to replace that sensor. When the check engine light is on, the computer runs in open loop mode. The open loop mode runs the default air/fuel mappings. The default mappings run richer than normal. Over time, the rich air/fuel mixture will ruin both the right and left pre-cats, it may take a year or two to happen, but it will happen. And that is an expensive repair. Also, running rich is going to reduce your fuel economy.
  • windsnowsleetwindsnowsleet Member Posts: 1
    I have used many K&N filters and elements over the years in dofferent vehicles and have never had that happen. Maybe you developed a leak somewhere in your intake caused by something coming loose? Have you given the entire intake a visual inspection?

    Also curious, do you know what K&N part number you are using?
  • dhirddhird Member Posts: 3
    I can confirm the rave reviews by sweet_subie and mcspak on the Michelin HydoEdge tires. I put 17" on my 2002 MPV ES in November 2004 because I couldn't go into another Canadian winter with those crappy Dunlop banana skins and finding a true winter tire to fit seemed impossible. I was concerned that the HydroEdge would only be a 3 season tire, but was more confident after I saw how many stones the new tires picked up the first time I was on gravel. Now after a full winter I can endorse them for any weather on-road (even climbing to the ski hill). And in rain, these tires pass and out corner everything on the road. You should see the looks I get blowing their doors off in a minivan.
  • dhirddhird Member Posts: 3
    I seem to be going through headlight bulbs faster than I get haircuts! And when one daylight filament goes I know the other is within a week of going as well. In the last year, my 2002 MPV ES has averaged a pair of bulbs every three months. I've tried regular bulbs, blue bulbs, long-life bulbs with no real difference (though I think the blue bulbs do give better light). I'm getting to be quite experienced at the job of changing them, especially in the dark - even the driver's side where I loosened a cable that had a tie that used to scratch up my hand. Am I pounding these things to death on rough roads, or is anyone else having this problem?

    At 80K kms I waited 10 days for a new oil pan (stripped drain plug threads) and replaced driver's seatbelt claspe (wouldn't click closed every time). No other warranty problems since new.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    Thanks for thirding that,,,err dhird. I had all but made up my mind to go with the Hydroedge...now it looks like it will be a unanimous decision.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • mcspakmcspak Member Posts: 8
    Too funny! Good to hear you like them too, we ">get alot of rain here in Vancouver, so happy to hear they perform well in the rain!
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    Here's the latest on my 'extended report'. 46K miles on her now.
    Had to take MPV back in due to the engine fan running ALL THE TIME! Sounded like a jet when I came to stop signs, etc. AND when I had the key off!! SECOND TIME I HAD THE CONTROLLER REPLACED - free under the recall again! But, how many times will this happen and then it will not be covered!
    Secondly, I now here a wheezing or squeak when turning the steering wheel! I had the local friendly Mazda dealer check THAT out as well and they just lubed the column....still makes this groaning sound. It's not the power steering either. I know what that type of sound is like. This is a groaning sound every time you make a turn, etc. Any ideas? Because the technicians are clueless...again! BTW: My front end squeak is still gone thanks to the suggestion of lubing the sway bar bushings...that only took 4 visits to the shop. Lovely vehicle though....when things are going good!
  • ewallewall Member Posts: 1
    We've had a rough idle on our 2001 MPV for a couple of years now. We took it to the dealership three times when it was under warranty and they fixed it, but only temporarily. We've now taken it to another mechanic twice - both fixes turned out to be temporary. We've had several different explanations but they most of them seem to have something to do with the ignition system/ spark plug wires. Does anyone have any idea what this problem actually could be? It's getting both frustrating and expensive.
    E :(
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    Ok, here's the latest issue on my MPV with 46K on it. After the vehicle is warmed up, my steering wheel creaks when turning. Both directions producing a creaking sound. My local dealer greased it a couple weeks ago, but the sound still persists. Any ideas??
    I don't believe it's related to the power steering or belts.
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    What was "fixed" before that turned out to be temporary? And how long did the "fix" last before the idle went south again?
    I need something to start with as a clue on this.
  • blouiedog1blouiedog1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I'm new to the board, and haven't really seen this problem before:
    Just a week or so ago, when I start the car it makes a high pitched whine - not too loud (yet). When press on gas it gets louder, step off- quieter, gas louder... Tends to go away as you drive or maybe just can't hear it when driving faster due to road noise. Really seems related to pressing on the accelerator. Any ideas?
    I'm still loving our 2000 MPV with 120,000 well travelled miles. Have only had a few problems in past:
    1. dealer replaced a recalled Air Intake Valve which was causing noise during cold weather (not like this though), and even some stalling.
    2. back sliding doors freeze up at times in winter - needed to replace a handle when husband pulled it right off - kids and I know to sneak thru the front - annoying, but can live with it.
    3. Check engine light came on this winter. Told I need a new catalytic converter for a mere $1000. Also told won't do any harm to drive, but may cause a problem at inspection time w/emissions. Still driving with it on, though ocasionally it turns itself off (like yesterday) especially in cooler weather. With 120K and inspection not till next Jan - figure I'll wait and see before spending that much. Let me know if any of you have had this problem, and if it is ok to drive like this.
    Thanks for the help!
  • geniedrothgeniedroth Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm new to this and needless to say very upset with Mazda. I have a 2001 mpv with 44,000 miles on it. On thursday I noticed for the 1st time the van wasn't handling properly so on friday morning I brought it into the dealership. Only to be told my transmission is shot completely and they want $3815 not including labor and taxes to replace it.
    2 weeks earlier I had it checked and the trans fluid was pink and full. No reason to do anything with it.
    I contacted mazda's 800 # and as of today no one from mazda has gotten back to me. Oh they were sure to tell me that I'm 4 1/2 months out of warranty!!!
    Any suggestions???
    Thanks
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    See if you can get a mechanic to isolate the source of the noise, but on my van I was told it was from the alternator. Mazda has a TSB about possible alternator failure from corrosion due to road salt in areas with severe snow and ice, and now they recommend the use of a shield. So far my alternator has not failed, but quite a few have had theirs go bad fairly early. It is an expensive repair.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    $3,815 not including labor? Thats kind of steep.Why can't they rebuilt it instead of replacing it? I would go to another dealer and get a second opinion on the transmission.Keep pressureing Mazda to at least split the cost of repair with you as it is ridiculous to only get 44,000 out of a transmission.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • k203206k203206 Member Posts: 20
    I don't own an MPV, but the same exact problem occurred with my Mazda 626.
    I brought it to the dealer and they "greased" it :cry: , but did not fix the problem.
    Right before the 50K warrenty ran out , I brought it in again and they gave me an entire "new" steering wheel column. Never had the problem again, didn't need to pay for it because of the warranty. But the cost of the whole job was just under $1000.00 dollars. :cry:
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    Well, my friendly north of St. Paul dealer had the MPV for two days - gave me an F150 Pickup with a V8 loaner gas hog - and STILL have not found the problem. Maybe, they should replace the steering column as was stated by K203206?!? They KNOW of the problem!! Mazda Central KNOWS of the problem, but have no fix yet. How can this be?? If the steering column is making the noise, why not replace that? They were going to replace the RACK and PINNION assembly, but MAZDA told them NO! It would not be the fix! So, it's documented, but not fixed yet! Can you beat this? Whatever!
    If MAZDA CENTRAL discovers the 'fix', it will be fully covered; no matter when...according to my friendly No. St. Paul dealer. How fun...not!
  • iseigaliseigal Member Posts: 1
    Hi;

    I saw your post. I have a 2000MPV with 33,000 miles, for towo years now, when I cold start the engine, I hear a loud humming, coming from the front end, more on the drivers side.

    It always occurs when the engine is cold, it can start by stepping onthe brake, shifting gears, or sometimes making a turn. It always goes away when the engine warms up. I have brought it into 3 shops and no one knows what it is. I changed the drive belt, but it didn't help.

    I have read threads here about the IAC. If anyone has a solid idea of what this is I would really appreciate it.

    Thanks
    Ira
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    It's an easy DIY job too, if you're so inclined. Not terribly expensive if you go to one of the online parts places either.

    -Brian
  • blouiedog1blouiedog1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the information. When I brought it to a mechanic he found a cracking, slightly gunked up serpentine belt, and changed that. But I still hear the high pitch noise. Will have my alternator checked. By the way, what do you consider expensive? any idea how much this could run? just so I can have a heads up-can't do without an alternator obviously. Thanks again.
  • rms1rms1 Member Posts: 3
    I am experiencing the same hesitation/misfiring issue. Dod you have to replace the Mass Air Sensor or did just replacing the filter fix the issue?
  • camarillobrillcamarillobrill Member Posts: 44
    often times the engine misfires due to carbon tracking on the spark plugs. Both the plugs and wires must be changed at the same time to correct. if one is changed and not the other, the problem will be transferred to the new wire/plugs....
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    Part cost at a dealer on the alternator is $350 to $400, and labor anywhere from $250 to $350. Make sure that they put on the recommended protective cover if the alternator needs replacement, so that the problem doesn't happen again.
  • swammi1swammi1 Member Posts: 3
    My MPV has been in the shop three times now. It has 29,000 miles. Mazda can't seem to solve a problem. Usually it occurs when I'm driving between 35-50mph but can occur at higher speeds. Usually what happens as I take my foot off the gas and then re-accelerate, there is a short, quick jerk as the engine starts to accelerate. I don't believe it's a transmission problem because it shifts gears smoothly. They thought it was a bad sparkplug and replaced all plugs but that didn't solve problem. The van idles fine and never experiences the jerking problem from a dead start (like starting from a dead stop and then accelerating). I almost compare the feeling of the jerking to getting a strike on your fishing pole when a fish hits the line. It's brief and quick and sometimes happens with 1,2, or 3 quick short jerks and then it goes away. This only happens after the engine has warmed up and have been driving it for 10 - 15 minutes. I take it out on the freeway and it will run fine with relatively few misfires, but when I go back in town the problem is more prevelant. Anyone have any ideas of what's wrong?
  • swammi1swammi1 Member Posts: 3
    The shifting problem you are experiencing is called "shift-shock." I had the same thing with my 03 LX and they'll reset the transmission software. It's an easy fix, but you need to take it in.
  • swammi1swammi1 Member Posts: 3
    See my post of 4083. I'm having the same problem, but they replaced all my spark plugs and still a problem. Do they need to replace the coil too? I've had it in the shop 3 times for this w/out the right fix. It sounds like to me the coil needs replacing? According to the service department, they've had reoccurring problems with the plugs. But, do I still need to have them replace the coil? Mazda's policy is to replace one thing at a time. I'm trying to sell the darned thing so I can get into a Mazda 6.
  • davehenrydavehenry Member Posts: 8
    Hi:
    Sorry to hear about your trouble. I had the same thing happen at 62,000 miles in my 03 LX.. Mazda, the District Service Mgr responsible for New Jersey, and Ford are totally useless. They have no customer service if you are out of warranty. They will eventually response to you and will basically tell you nothing and will do nothing for you (Buyer beware). New Jersey's lemon laws don't apply because they fix the rough shifting problem. I do not even know why Mazda even bothers to send MPV's here with defective transmissions. I believed that the rough shifts actually damaged the transmissons and Mazda/Ford will not tell us the truth. My goal is to pay off the 03 and trade it in as soon as possible. Do not buy another MPV again they do not have reliable transmissions. Also put your complaint into the USHTSA so they have a record. By the way, Mazda North American operations goes through presidents like a revolving door. They still have not a clue why their sales are off (they do not stand behind their product and there is not comelling reason to buy a MPV). I could have brought a Honda or Toyota Minivan for the price I paid for for the van and the transmission and the transmission controller module.

    Stay away from any subsidary of the Ford Motor Company.

    Sincerely

    A former Mazda fan from New Jersey
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    I have an 03 MPV that has performed very admirably. We just noticed that right around driving 80 mph, there was a soft clicking sound coming from the driver front wheel well. It doesn't happen at slower speeds at all. The clicking can actually be heard and felt by your foot on the deadpedal. It's not very loud or hard at all, is very intermitant and not modulated and is hardly noticable.

    My first thought was that there was a part loose that was knocking around or that the wheel was loose so I visually checked the wheel, wheel well, checked if the lugs were tight, the brake assembly etc. and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. The other thought was that it was a piece of debris caught up in things, but I didn't see anything.

    Wondering if anyone has experienced this gremlin before and has any insight.
  • gagpgagp Member Posts: 32
    It seems that I have the same problem with my '00 DX... Had to replace my first original bulb last winter and I decided to upgrade to Sylvania Silverstar (so I replaced both : 20$/each). :shades:

    Had to replace one (again) few weeks ago :surprise: . The other on went dead few days after... :cry:

    Silver (star) Driver
  • akyuakyu Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2005 MPV LX last week with 25 miles on it. When I step on the brake at speed of 40 mph and up, the van vibrates. The vibration stops when the speed drops below 40mph. Does anyone have similar problem?
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    Sounds like a rotor problem to me. Take it back to the dealer and tell them to fix it asap.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    I have an 03 MPV LX with 47K miles on it. I have had this issue with a squeak/groan type sound from the front end when I turn the wheel either way. Usually worse after I have been driving a while.
    Has anyone seen a bulliten on this yet? Dealer stated that Mazda Corp. knows of the issue and is working on a fix....

    Thanks.
  • jdoubleujdoubleu Member Posts: 2
    Hi, My 2001 has a brake issue. I hear a gradual rubbing/crunching sound when I first step on the breaks to slow down, it finishes when stopped. I am wondering if the pads need replacing or if it is a disc issue. The brakes seem to work fine but this noise is slowly getting worse so I want to get on it. Another thing to add the outside/exposed part of my discs are quite rusty-- could this be causing the problem? thanks
  • 004tjk004tjk Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    My sister-in-law and I both had the same problem this winter. Sound plus higher revs when the sound started. Problem included "rotten egg" smell as well. Both vans ('00) had IAC valve replaced and both have been fine since. Dealer told me the valve had something to do with the automatic choke.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Most disc brakes will do this nowadays. A couple of applications on the brakes and it should clean the rotors up. The pads might have accumulated crud as well -you can try some moderate full speed full stops (with firm brake effort) to help clean them. Of course, this is as long as the pads are in good shape and not screeching the rotors. You can easily take the front wheel off and visually check the pad thickness.

    How many miles?

    -Brian
  • knewmanknewman Member Posts: 5
    sounds like a design flaw. manufacturers weigh problems, including irritating sounds and vibrations, and either fix it or not. this sounds like a motor mount design issue. they try to strike a balance between isolation (lots of rubber), and stability (hard fastened with metal). when the motor is cold, the idle speed is way up and pushes much harder through the transmission fluid, making the fluid "harder" as well. since the force has nowhere to go, i.e. the wheels, it goes into the car body and your caboose. i assume the vibrations go away when you get some road speed, like even 5-10 mph? and of course it would go away when the engine warms up and the idle goes down. sorry man, luck of the draw. sometimes manufacturers offer upgrades, but often not. hope it helps.
  • knewmanknewman Member Posts: 5
    perhaps a little of this is due to winter gasoline. the gov't mandates ethanol added to all gasoline from mid september 'til...? this supposedly reduces emissions by 10% but it also decreases gas mileage 10%. makes a lot of sense, huh? maybe it helps our corn farmers, i dunno. try a higher grade fuel, or even a different gas station. experiment. a lot of short trips will drive down your mileage too, cuz the computer never takes sensor readings 'til it's warm (about 5 minutes). until then it runs rich. maybe we should make moonshine an additive instead of ethanol. i'm game.
  • 03mpv03mpv Member Posts: 1
    Do you still have the original equipment tires?

    I was experiencing a similar problem, but only noticed the sound when turning the wheels at slower speeds...for instance backing out of a parking space. I could feel it at higher speeds, as you say, under my left foot.

    For whatever reason, I began to suspect a seperated tread on the left front tire. I bought new tires and guess what, no more click! I'm guessing that Yokohama is having some tread seperation issues as the OE tires age.
  • pehanlonpehanlon Member Posts: 2
    After searcing many message boards I found no definitive information on how to change the Mazda MPV spark plugs. I have a 2001 MPV, 2.5L DOHC engine and can tell you it is not a job for the faint of heart :cry:.

    In short, you need to remove the upper intake manifold in order to gain access to the spark plugs. In total, this took me about four hours. I expect to be able to do it in about two-three hours the next time as I now know which componets to remove and in which order.

    If anyone needs further info, please let me know I'll be glad to help. ;)
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    Hey thanks for the reply. I actually found the culprit: a loose splash guard on the driver's front. Makes perfect sense. We got it fixed and it's all better!
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    How many miles did you have on your '01 when you changed spark plugs? I've thought about changing mine on my '01 (until I look under the hood...eek) since I have 80K miles now - but it still starts on the first rev and I'm not experiencing any pings, knocks or misfires and the gas mileage is still over 21.
    I think I'll just let a sleeping dog lie for now.
This discussion has been closed.