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Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
The above posts did remind me that my two flat tires were a real pain with the spare. The first thought was "Where's the spare, I can't be this dumb?". The second one was "Who's the idiot that designed this?".
We have no snow in Houston so salts corrosion is not a problem - it's laying down in a puddle half under the van getting the spare off the cable. I carry a jump suit in the van now just in case.
And the ashtray is too small.....
Thanks in adavance
burleygirl
I just called my dealership and they said the part is $95 if I just wanted to change it myself... I think I'll be calling on that warranty. Thanks again.
You can unplug the negative battery terminal for a few minutes, then reconnect it. That will reset the codes and clear the check engine light.
But if the check engine light comes back on again with the same code, then the only way to fix it is to replace the right rear O2 sensor.
Even though the van drives fine, you still need to replace that sensor. When the check engine light is on, the computer runs in open loop mode. The open loop mode runs the default air/fuel mappings. The default mappings run richer than normal. Over time, the rich air/fuel mixture will ruin both the right and left pre-cats, it may take a year or two to happen, but it will happen. And that is an expensive repair. Also, running rich is going to reduce your fuel economy.
Also curious, do you know what K&N part number you are using?
At 80K kms I waited 10 days for a new oil pan (stripped drain plug threads) and replaced driver's seatbelt claspe (wouldn't click closed every time). No other warranty problems since new.
Had to take MPV back in due to the engine fan running ALL THE TIME! Sounded like a jet when I came to stop signs, etc. AND when I had the key off!! SECOND TIME I HAD THE CONTROLLER REPLACED - free under the recall again! But, how many times will this happen and then it will not be covered!
Secondly, I now here a wheezing or squeak when turning the steering wheel! I had the local friendly Mazda dealer check THAT out as well and they just lubed the column....still makes this groaning sound. It's not the power steering either. I know what that type of sound is like. This is a groaning sound every time you make a turn, etc. Any ideas? Because the technicians are clueless...again! BTW: My front end squeak is still gone thanks to the suggestion of lubing the sway bar bushings...that only took 4 visits to the shop. Lovely vehicle though....when things are going good!
E
I don't believe it's related to the power steering or belts.
I need something to start with as a clue on this.
Just a week or so ago, when I start the car it makes a high pitched whine - not too loud (yet). When press on gas it gets louder, step off- quieter, gas louder... Tends to go away as you drive or maybe just can't hear it when driving faster due to road noise. Really seems related to pressing on the accelerator. Any ideas?
I'm still loving our 2000 MPV with 120,000 well travelled miles. Have only had a few problems in past:
1. dealer replaced a recalled Air Intake Valve which was causing noise during cold weather (not like this though), and even some stalling.
2. back sliding doors freeze up at times in winter - needed to replace a handle when husband pulled it right off - kids and I know to sneak thru the front - annoying, but can live with it.
3. Check engine light came on this winter. Told I need a new catalytic converter for a mere $1000. Also told won't do any harm to drive, but may cause a problem at inspection time w/emissions. Still driving with it on, though ocasionally it turns itself off (like yesterday) especially in cooler weather. With 120K and inspection not till next Jan - figure I'll wait and see before spending that much. Let me know if any of you have had this problem, and if it is ok to drive like this.
Thanks for the help!
2 weeks earlier I had it checked and the trans fluid was pink and full. No reason to do anything with it.
I contacted mazda's 800 # and as of today no one from mazda has gotten back to me. Oh they were sure to tell me that I'm 4 1/2 months out of warranty!!!
Any suggestions???
Thanks
I brought it to the dealer and they "greased" it , but did not fix the problem.
Right before the 50K warrenty ran out , I brought it in again and they gave me an entire "new" steering wheel column. Never had the problem again, didn't need to pay for it because of the warranty. But the cost of the whole job was just under $1000.00 dollars.
If MAZDA CENTRAL discovers the 'fix', it will be fully covered; no matter when...according to my friendly No. St. Paul dealer. How fun...not!
I saw your post. I have a 2000MPV with 33,000 miles, for towo years now, when I cold start the engine, I hear a loud humming, coming from the front end, more on the drivers side.
It always occurs when the engine is cold, it can start by stepping onthe brake, shifting gears, or sometimes making a turn. It always goes away when the engine warms up. I have brought it into 3 shops and no one knows what it is. I changed the drive belt, but it didn't help.
I have read threads here about the IAC. If anyone has a solid idea of what this is I would really appreciate it.
Thanks
Ira
-Brian
Sorry to hear about your trouble. I had the same thing happen at 62,000 miles in my 03 LX.. Mazda, the District Service Mgr responsible for New Jersey, and Ford are totally useless. They have no customer service if you are out of warranty. They will eventually response to you and will basically tell you nothing and will do nothing for you (Buyer beware). New Jersey's lemon laws don't apply because they fix the rough shifting problem. I do not even know why Mazda even bothers to send MPV's here with defective transmissions. I believed that the rough shifts actually damaged the transmissons and Mazda/Ford will not tell us the truth. My goal is to pay off the 03 and trade it in as soon as possible. Do not buy another MPV again they do not have reliable transmissions. Also put your complaint into the USHTSA so they have a record. By the way, Mazda North American operations goes through presidents like a revolving door. They still have not a clue why their sales are off (they do not stand behind their product and there is not comelling reason to buy a MPV). I could have brought a Honda or Toyota Minivan for the price I paid for for the van and the transmission and the transmission controller module.
Stay away from any subsidary of the Ford Motor Company.
Sincerely
A former Mazda fan from New Jersey
My first thought was that there was a part loose that was knocking around or that the wheel was loose so I visually checked the wheel, wheel well, checked if the lugs were tight, the brake assembly etc. and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. The other thought was that it was a piece of debris caught up in things, but I didn't see anything.
Wondering if anyone has experienced this gremlin before and has any insight.
Had to replace one (again) few weeks ago :surprise: . The other on went dead few days after...
Silver (star) Driver
Has anyone seen a bulliten on this yet? Dealer stated that Mazda Corp. knows of the issue and is working on a fix....
Thanks.
My sister-in-law and I both had the same problem this winter. Sound plus higher revs when the sound started. Problem included "rotten egg" smell as well. Both vans ('00) had IAC valve replaced and both have been fine since. Dealer told me the valve had something to do with the automatic choke.
How many miles?
-Brian
I was experiencing a similar problem, but only noticed the sound when turning the wheels at slower speeds...for instance backing out of a parking space. I could feel it at higher speeds, as you say, under my left foot.
For whatever reason, I began to suspect a seperated tread on the left front tire. I bought new tires and guess what, no more click! I'm guessing that Yokohama is having some tread seperation issues as the OE tires age.
In short, you need to remove the upper intake manifold in order to gain access to the spark plugs. In total, this took me about four hours. I expect to be able to do it in about two-three hours the next time as I now know which componets to remove and in which order.
If anyone needs further info, please let me know I'll be glad to help.
I think I'll just let a sleeping dog lie for now.