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Mitsubishi Diamante

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Comments

  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Sorry to hear you are having problems with your Diamante. According to the detailed reliability database reported on http://autos.msn.com/ the Diamante is a very reliable car with no significant issues such as you mention. I suspect your dealer is not providing good service.

    Transmission problems can be caused by electrical, hydraulic or mechanical problems. Only after checking all electrical components (sensors, switches, solenoids, computer and interconnecting harnesses) and measuring hydraulic pressures to rule out problems there should a mechanic attempt to replace any internal parts. I doubt the dealer really did all the tests. Just checking for a trouble code is not enough. If you haven’t already done so, ask for a meeting with the factory zone service manager. Perhaps another Mitsubishi dealer has a better trained mechanic.

    By the way, it is a normal feature of the Diamante to have the first speed setting of the wipers speed up with car speed. This is called “speed-variable wipers” and helps in light drizzles where you need intermittent wiping when driving slowly and faster wiping as you speed up and more rain hits your windshield.

    Mr. Vivona
  • czibertczibert Member Posts: 38
    I haven't been around for a while but I have a question for those in the know re repairs. I just had the AT gasket/seal replaced last week (it had somehow been damaged and was leaking) and thus got new AT fluid. It is going back in on Weds for a timing belt replacement. The dealer wants to do the full 60K service (I am at close to 160K), but that is an additional $459 on top of the $399 for the timing belt service. Is this particularly worth my money? The car has been very well maintained over the years (I have all records from the window sticker forward), and only recently have lost track of the regular maintenance schedule.

    Thanks for your help!

    Chris
    '93 ES
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    I would see what the 60k service entails. They usually include a tranny flush, but you wouldn't need that since you just got your tranny fixed. That should take at least $100 off the price of the service. They usually also include some sort of fuel system cleaning. I would forego that unless you are encountering hesitation. In reality, the only thing you really may need is a new air filter/fuel filter/spark plugs. If any of these have been replaced recently, than you don't need it and shouldn't be charged for it. If you do need those items, than I wouldn't pay them more than 180 to do it, if that. Good luck!
  • czibertczibert Member Posts: 38
    Jonathan-- The 60K is supposed to include checking "every moving part on the car" (in dealer-speak) including all new fluids and all new filters, they briefly mentioned spark plugs (I couldn't tell if that was included), something about hoses (I don't think replacements), and checking various other things. Since I just had the transaxle serviced I said I didn't want that nor the Oil Lube and Filter (had that done at the same time). That only knocked $66 off the price. The timing is the big thing I need to do, but I don't know how recently the rest has been done. I will have to go through the recs carefully, and ask them for a printout of exactly what the 60K entails. I had something similar (though much less costly) done at Mark Mitsubishi in Phoenix about 1-2 years ago, but I can't find the docs. I should call them.

    I wish Mitsu did it like they do at Infiniti for my parents. All records are stored by VIN on their national network so no matter where the work was done or when (goes back to 1990) they can pull it up.

    Thanks (any more comments apprecaited as well),

    Chris
    '93 ES
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    czibert-- Keep in mind that periodic services are a major source of revenue for a dealer, more so than selling new cars. Many dealers say they are "checking everything" but that doesn't really happen.

    I would consult your owner's manual for the recommended services. There are recommendations for regular service and for severe service, such as driving most of the time in hot, dusty or stop-and-go conditions. I would definitely have the recommended services done according to your driving conditions. Most of the other things a dealer says they are doing are easy for you to do yourself, such as oiling the door hinges, checking fluid levels, looking for fluid leaks, inspecting the tires, inspecting CV Joint boots, etc. Even changing the air filter is very easy to do.

    If anything they are going to do involves removing a wheel, make sure they only use hand tools (not an air impact wrench) to remove and replace the wheel lug nuts and that they hand torque the nuts to 80 ft. lbs. in a criscross pattern.

    Mr. Vivona
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Ask yourself, "Do I really need all these things looked at?" and "what haven't I had serviced?" If your answer is no to the first question, than I would only pay for the timing belt. If you figure out you need a new fuel filter/air filter/spark plugs, than I would ask them to simply replace those items and ask what the charge would be for that. The 30k/60k service is an easy way for the dealer to charge a high price for extra services you don't really need. You can do almost all the checking yourself. Do you really think they inspect every "moving part" closely? They probably give your car a quick look over and charge you $200 for their "time" when nothing was really accomplished by the looking. Just determine what you really want done to the car and ask them for the price to do just those items. They won't be too happy but at least they will know you can't be fooled into buying unneeded stuff.
  • rsr742002rsr742002 Member Posts: 64
    Diamantes are known for poor assembly quality and awful resale values. My advice, if I may: cut your losses and get rid of it while you can.
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    not sure what you have to substantiate that last post for assembly qulaity. Recently Diamante resale has not been stellar, I'll give you that, but that has almost all to do with the same body style being in production since 97......as for that, I find its a great way to get a lightly used good quality car; to get a really nice car for not a lot of money.
  • kozloduevkozloduev Member Posts: 5
    Mr. Vinona. Thank you very much for your suggestions. I admire your deep knowledge of the subject. As for the brake pads I will replace the front ones when they get worn out substantially and I beleive the noise will be reduced or totally gone. Thanks again.
  • marilynb97marilynb97 Member Posts: 3
    My car now is a Nissan Altima and I was going to purchase a new one. However, I have been in a rental Galant for the past week, liked it, but decided the Diamante is more what I have in mind. In looking at the 2002 model, depreciation is significant, but much less cost up front, it won't be such a factor for this model. Very concerned in purchasing a new one because of this. Seems those with comments on this car either love or hate them. Any remarks will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    I have purchased lightly used 2001 and 2002 Diamantes for good prices and found them to be good trouble free pleasurable cars. Go for it!
  • marilynb97marilynb97 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks regfootball! A silly question, what milage on a Diamante is considered "lightly used?" The 2002 I looked at today has a little over 30K miles, great condition, and the asking price is $16,595 w/extended warranty. I have seen prices and milage all over the range.
  • regfootballregfootball Member Posts: 2,166
    THAT'S TOO MUCH!

    Well, depends though, is it an ES with cloth seats or an LS with leather....

    my purchases

    2001 ES bought with 11,000 miles on odo for 15,900

    2002 ES bought with 12,000 miles for 15,400 (traded the 2001 with 33,000 miles one year to day following for 3000 to boot)

    I have seen quite a few listings on ES models with similar miles to mine and have been priced from 13,900 to 16+ thousand.....

    LS models will be a couple grand more or so typically.

    The Diamante is a reliable car with a standard 5/60 powertrain warranty from the manufacturer so I'm not sure 'spending' additional over market value for an extended warranty is really necessary.

    looking on the website for the broker where i got mine, they have an 02 ES with 16k miles for 13,900......
  • diamantdiamant Member Posts: 7
    Remember me? I used to complain about my '02 D not getting more than 20-21 mpg even on long trips. Back in December someone ran through a red light and hit me on the front causing $9K damage and it took the body shop about two months (parts delay due to holiday season partially to blame). Everything in front of the engine block is new now.

    Since then, I have noticed a big improvement (25+ mpg, 26+ on long trips). Any idea why? Not that I am complaining. Another friend of mine also says he gets 20-21 mpg from his 02 VRX. I suggested to him that he should try getting into an accident similar to mine to get better mileage, but quite understandably, he won't take my advice ;-). I am sure there is an easier way.

    Also, did anyone try getting a remote starter for these cars? I once spoke with a dealer and he quoted north of $600. I actually found someone who is willing to do this for $300. Is this a good deal? He said that there is a transponder in each key and that requires extra work.
  • marak88marak88 Member Posts: 57
    Hello

    The remote (fob) stopped working, so I bought another from ebay, but I cant seem to figure out how to program it to work on my 1999 diamante, and I don't want to pay the dealer $45 to prgram it, Can any one help me and tell me how to program these remote.

    Regards,
  • czibertczibert Member Posts: 38
    Hey all--

    Thanks for the advice on my repair questions. I went ahead and got the timing belt done without the 60K service, so that plus the AT gasket leak fix put me @ $760. After recharging the AC system for two years in a row and it leaking out after three months I took it to an AC specialist who confirmed the compressor is cracked (even though the two previous places assured me that there was no leak!) and gave me an estimate of $1275 for a new one installed with an R134 conversion. Yikes! I said no thanks and drove off with the windows down. So glad I didn't do that other service either, but more on that later.

    I drove to Oregon (from Seattle) last week to spend a few days with family. On the way back (Saturday) I was cruising along just south of Portland at 70-75mph on cruise when the transaxle started to jerk, and did it again in about 5-10 seconds. Pulled off at the next exit (which was luckily right away) and came to a stop at the stop light at the end of the offramp. When I pulled away from there it was obvious the tranny hadn't shifted out of its higher gear as the engine revved a lot and the car had no power. I pulled into a gas station and put it in park. I then shifted it into reverse and the gear would not engage. It just sat there and the engine revved. The manual recommended putting it through all the gears, but that didn't help.

    Long story short, had it towed to the dealer 15 miles away and spent the night in a hotel. Got picked up the next day and the dealer didn't look at it until Monday afternoon. As suspected, it needs a new tranny for $2300. Aamco quoted a base price of $1500, but I am sure it would be more like $1700-2000 when they were done as I am sure the D's tranny is just as complicated, rare, and expensive to repair as every other part I've had to replace on the vehicle. I calculated that I've spent $2000 since last April on repairs only (and not cosmetic kinds of repairs either, necessary ones).

    My only real concern is getting through the next year (my last of grad school and being poor) and it seemed to me that $2300 would go a long way to making 12 months of payments on a small, inexpensive new car WITH WARRANTY. As much as I love the Diamante, I am always worried that something else is going to break that I can't afford. And I know I am just waiting for that valve repair that produces the white smoke.

    So, long story short (too late), I bought a VW Jetta on Tuesday. Good price, good car. I still think the D looks better (even a '93!), but I think I made a smart choice. Since I can't sell it broken, I called some wrecking yards and I could only get $350 for it! The timing belt was $500! I told the guy, "hey this car is rare, the parts are expensive" and he was like "yeah, I know thats why I bought one 6 mos. ago, but no one has called on it at all, its not in demand."

    I will be pulling the CD changer out so if anyone has the ES with the optional sound system (like mine), or the LS, the changer should work for your car if you are interested. Just let me know. I can't think of anything else I can pull from the car, but I am taking the manual & window sticker and all my service records for posterity. I am driving down on Sat to take care of the details. So sad, I love that car.

    At least I had one last good drive. The day it died I had just driven the fun and twisty roads between Western and Central Oregon, made me remember why I owned the car... : )

    Best to you all, and I'll probably still lurk around and post every now and then.

    Chris
    '93 ES, 159,000 miles
    '03 VW Jetta, 110 miles
  • gtroopgtroop Member Posts: 85
    I'm not sure which trim level you had but I need a few part from your Diamante. I will send you a list via your email.
  • amlanamlan Member Posts: 7
    93 Diamante ES 126000 miles. Excellent Condition.
    I have recently noticed that my city mileage has gone down to 17 from 21 in stop n go driving. The O2 sensors have never been replaced. Will replacing them improve mileage? I have a brand new fuel filter and a very clean air filter (K&N).
    Is there something else that needs to be done? Thanks a lot in advance.
  • amlanamlan Member Posts: 7
    How many O2 sensors does a 93 Diamante SOHC have and where is it located?
  • brandinimanbrandiniman Member Posts: 2
    For anyone wanting to find out more tech about their D go to http://diamante.gweilo.org/

    This site is more geared toward trouble shooting, repair, and modifications to Diamantes and their overseas counterparts. One of our members is building a 600HP first generation SOHC street/drag car.

    For gas mileage, a special fuel injector cleaner was recommended by Harry ('Interceptor' in the forum). BG44 because it doesn't degrade performance when you add it.

    There was just a discussion about O2 sensors in the forum so you can search and find that there... replacing them will not improve gas mileage unless one is faulty.
  • amlanamlan Member Posts: 7
    I just had my transmission rebuilt. The shop took the passenger side front wheel off in order
    to drop the transmission. After they put the transmission and the wheel back, my Antilock light stays on.
    Is there a wire that the shop forgot to connect or is this a sensor problem?
    My brakes work just fine. Where is the sensor located? Please help and advise.........
    Thanks a lot in advance.
  • tall1tall1 Member Posts: 6
    I have a loaded 99 LS with 35000 miles and I'm ready to trade. The car has had the brake pulsation occur every 5-7000 miles like clockwork and a transmission replacement at 27000 miles, otherwise the car has been acceptable. In looking at KBB trade in value, I was shocked to see that my car in "excellent condition" has a $6925 trade in value and the best dealer allowance that I've been able to get is $6400. Why has this car dropped so severly in value? In comparison, a co worker bought a new 99 Acura 3.2 TL within several months of my purchase, they ended up paying about $3500 more for their car than I did for mine and I justified getting the Diamante because it was nearly as nice as the TL but less expensive. Now, they are looking to replace their TL too, it has 39000 miles on it and the KBB for that car is $14975!!!! THAT'S NEARLY A $9000 DIFFERENCE IN VALUES!!!! I was possibly considering another Diamante (figuring they worked out the brake and tranny glitches) because of the $3500 rebate and deep dealer discounts, that is until I discovered how they sink in value. Please, does anyone have any suggestions; I'd want to buy a NEW car and I'm really impressed with the TL BUT I read that it will be an all new design for 2004 and I don't want to run the risk of that sinking in value because the old design will then be obsolete. Thank you.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I trust you had the transmission replaced under warranty and at no cost? Did anyone touch it (i.e. replace the fluid) prior to that?

    As to the brakes, there is no known design or manufacturing defect that makes a Diamante have brake pulsation every 5-7000 miles. The problem is common with any car with zero-tolerance wheel bearings (a good thing) when a mechanic over torques the wheel lug nuts (almost always). Rather than go into detail here, please read my article at http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article2.htm

    35,000 miles is a low mileage to trade, so if you can keep mechanics from using an air impact wrench on your wheel lug nuts and if you trust that the transmission failure was a "fluke" or caused by a mechanic putting the wrong fluid in it (only Mitsubishi brand is called for in the manual), you may want to keep the car and get more out of it before you trade.

    If you really have your heart set on the TL, you may be better off with the 2003 model. If you wait for the 2004, you will be getting the first year in a model run and will be subject to all the first year glitches. Look up the technical service bulletins for the 1999 3.2TL (first year of the current design) and you will see the 50 bulletins, some listing issues that may scare you. You can check service bulletins at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm

    Mr. Vivona
  • anonymouspostsanonymousposts Member Posts: 3,802
    You will be fine with a 2003 TL in regards to resale value. Even previous generation Accords and TL's still get a pretty penny if they are in good-excellent condition.
  • tall1tall1 Member Posts: 6
    My coworker's 99 TL has been troublefree for them and with regard to the transmission in the Diamante; the fluid was the original that came from the factory, I didn't have it changed because it wasn't required. An independent mechanic told me that the brake calipers could also be the root of the pulsation, at any rate, I have been careful not to have my lugnuts tightened by an air wrench and during tire rotations, I watch the mechanic hand tighten the lug nuts. I'm ready for a change but it sure is tough to see how little that my car is worth now!!
  • carguy58carguy58 Member Posts: 2,303
    Mitsu has hired the President of Hyundai to run Mitsubishi. Apparently Mitsu fired their previous president because of low sales, and the whole 0/0/0 thing.
  • marak88marak88 Member Posts: 57
    Trunk is hard to close, I almost have to slam it shut, inlike my other cars that I can just push the trunk shut, Is there any adjustment that I can do to my trunk so I can make it easier to shut close?
  • timtrantimtran Member Posts: 29
    Your best bet is to drive the D to the ground. That is what one ought to have in mind when buying a Mitsu product. Blame it on the public's ignorance for its miserable resale value. I also have a 99 D that is running well, and I will hand it down to my son when he reaches 16 next year, instead of trying to resell it. If you wanted to change cars every 3 or 4 years, you would be better off leasing them. If you consider buying the 2003 TL, you may want to look at the 2003 530i which is selling for about three thousands below invoice, thus only a few thousands(<9K) more than the TL. Moving from a D to a TL is not really justifiable. The "ultimate driving machine" on the other hand is a notch above both, and it holds its resale value well. Current stock is dwindling fast...
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    marak88 -- A Diamante trunk should close so easily that you think it didn't latch. If you are having to slam yours it could be one of several things:

    1. One or more of trunk bumpers could be out of adjustment. The bumpers are rubber bumpers you will see around the sides of the body opening where the trunk lid closes into. They screw up or down as needed to provide a snug fit of the lid. If they are screwed too high, the lid will hit them before the latch fully closes. Lowering the height of the bumpers will allow the latch to close. If you can push the trunk lid down with moderate force and the lid lines up with the top of the rear fenders, then the bumpers are adjusted okay.

    2. The striker may not be properly adjusted. The striker is the little loop that the latch closes onto at the bottom of the trunk opening. It is held in place with two screws. If it is adjusted too low, the lid has to be slammed to move the latch down enough to engage the striker. You adjust it by loosening the screws, moving the striker up or down, and re-tightening the screws.

    3. Before you try anything else, try this. On the trunk latch there is a little lever that allows you to disable the remote release. It is there if you want to keep your trunk from being opened by someone who has access to the passenger compartment. Switch it to the locked position and see if your problem goes away. Try it this way for a week or so. During that time you will only be able to open your trunk with your key.

    If the problem goes away with the latch lever in the lock position, but comes back when it is in the unlocked position, then you may have a trunk remote actuator motor that is sticking. What happens is that you open the trunk with the remote and the motor gears stick and the actuator keeps the latch in the open position. Slamming the trunk lid eventually jars it loose and the trunk closes. The only solution here is to replace the trunk actuator motor/gear assembly. The actuator motor is under the trunk lining on the left side, near the power antenna. The same unit also remotely opens your fuel door. In fact, a way to verify if the actuator motor is the problem is next time the trunk won't close is to push the remote fuel door button on the driver's door. If the trunk then closes easily, that is a good indication that the actuator gearset was stuck in the "trunk open" position. Opening the fuel door reverses the motor and unsticks it. Don't forget to reclose your fuel door.

    You can also verify the problem by removing the trunk lid lining and observing if the remote release cable fully extends back immediately after the remote actuator pulls it in to open the trunk. You will probably see that it is still pulled in and you can bull it back out by hand and the trunk will latch.

    4. The only remaining item that could cause the problem is the latch itself. It could have been damaged by closing the trunk while something was in the way.

    Let me know what you find.

    Mr. Vivona
  • marak88marak88 Member Posts: 57
    Thanks for the input Mr. Vivona, your second guess worked the striker was not be properly adjusted I loosened the screws, aligned and re-tightened the screws, its perfect now.

    By the way, do you have any ideas of how to program a key fob remote for the keyless entry without having to go to the dealer.

    Thanks for all your help.
  • kimchamkimcham Member Posts: 4
    When I switch the electric radio antenna in my 93 D it makes a series of loud noice but does not activate. I am wondering what causes it and how to fix or disable it? Thank you in advance.
  • timtrantimtran Member Posts: 29
    You got message 1000! Lights, bells ,whistles! Boy, your username hurts ;-) The plastic rod inside your antenna is broken. You just have to replace it with a new one (takes about 1/2 hour.) Good luck.
  • tall1tall1 Member Posts: 6
    I've decided to just sell the Diamante myself, it's in good condition and if I can get close to $8000; I'll be happy. Just read Edmunds article on the 04 TL which will be out in a month or so, it seems like a VERY impressive car and the new style looks great; that's the route that I'm going to go. This will be my first Honda product but I've spoken to many, many people who swear by them and they do have great resale values. Wish me luck and good luck with your Diamantes.
  • kimchamkimcham Member Posts: 4
    Question for timtran: how do i get to the plastic rod to replace it? Any step-by-step instructions is appreciated. Also, where do i get the part and how much does it cost?
  • timtrantimtran Member Posts: 29
    Please refer to messages 675, 682, 691 on pages 35, 36 : they have all the information you need. Good luck.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    "Go To Msg#" on the page bar will take you right there. :)
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    amlan -- There is an antilock brake sensor at each wheel hub that measures the rotation of the wheel. Look from the inside and you will see a toothed ring around the wheel bearing hub. There is a sensor mounted to be very close to, but not touch, the toothed ring. If the sensor was knocked away from the ring, of if the wire was pulled off, the antilock braking system will show an error. If you find the wire off, just reattach it. If the wire is attached, compare the gap between the sensor and the toothed ring to the sensor on the other front wheel and see if it is the same. If not, try bending the sensor mounting back in place so the gap and position are the same as the other wheel's sensor. Let me know if neither of these steps fix the problem.

    Mr. Vivona
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    marak88 -- Actually, it is the other way around. The receiver in the car is reprogrammed to work with the key fob. The procedure involves grounding pin 1 of the scan tool plug which is located under the dash, in the area of the ignition switch. You have to be very careful to not ground any other pin or you could damage part of your electronics system. If you are comfortable with doing this, I can give you the step-by-step procedure to use the key fob to reprogram your receiver. If you are not comfortable with grounding the pin, your dealer can do the whole reprogramming procedure in about one minute, so they really shouldn't be charging you much, if anything, for it.

    Mr. Vivona
  • marak88marak88 Member Posts: 57
    Mr. Vivona, Yes please I would like the steps to prgram the keyless remote. I would like to give it a try.

    Thanks and Regards,
  • reegerreeger Member Posts: 11
    Has anyone had a problem with thier FM stereo reception when they turn on the rear defogger? Basically it is an intermittent buzzing/cracklin sound everytime I hit the defog button, does not effect AM or CD's.

    Also, between 30-40 mph and 50 -60 mph, there is a strange sort of buzzy vibration in the vehicle and at the same time you hear kind of a wo-wo-wo-wo, sound eminating from the wheel area. Has anyone else experienced this? The buzzy vibration sort of reminds me of wore wheel bearings but no-where as prominent in previous vehicle (1985 camaro). Also, the other sounds I think may be the tires (Goodyear - cant stand). I noticed a similar sound on my previous vehicle with GY's (2000 Pontiac Grand Prix).

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
  • amlanamlan Member Posts: 7
    Mr. Vivona -- Thanks a lot for your reply. I checked the ABS sensors just like you suggested, but could not find anything wrong. I then took it to Pep Boys, who after plugging it on to their ABS computer were unable to get an error code and referred me to the dealer. The dealer checked it and told me that the ABS control module has failed and would cost about 3 grand to fix. I asked them to leave it alone and just had the brake pads replaced. The car has a brand new transmission and new brakes and I am just going to drive it for a year or so and then get rid of it.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    amlan -- If your dealer is SURE it is the ABS control module, you may want to replace it. ABS can prevent an accident and has saved me several times. What year is your Diamante? The ABS module for my 1997 is $468, a lot less than the $3,000 your dealer is quoting.

    Mr. Vivona
  • amlanamlan Member Posts: 7
    Mr. Vivona -- My Diamante is a 1993 ES with 127,000 miles on it. Is there an aftermarket ABS module that I can find and can I replace the module myself?
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    amlan - Yes, there are aftermarket and rebuilt brake modules available. I checked and indeed the new module cost for a first generation Diamante is much more expensive than for a second generation Diamante. Aftermarket ones for the first generation Diamante (like yours) cost about $500. See http://www.autopartstreet.com/partslookup.jsp and enter your year, make, model, engine and use Brake/Wheel Hub as the category. Also try http://www.mitsubishi-autoparts.com/partslookup.jsp and see which has the lowest delivered price. Don't forget your local AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. They may stock an aftermarket module.

    Before replacing the module I would want to be very sure it is bad. Unfortunately all a dealer does is connect a code reader and if it says the module is bad that isn't always conclusive. Since the problem started right after you had some work done, I would look for a broken or loose wire, either to a wheel sensor or the ABS system. If you can buy a module locally with return privileges, try it and return it if it doesn't fix the problem.

    Mr. Vivona
  • ineed2carsineed2cars Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Diamante. Sometimes there is a shock (or bump) when I stop the car. The shock occurs just before the car comes to a complete stop. On occasion, the shock can be quite harsh. The shock does not occur every time I stop. Does anyone else have this problem or does anyone know what the problem is?
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    ineed2cars -- A bump just before coming to a stop is usually caused by the transmission shifting into low. To prevent the bump, the accelerator has a switch that tells the transmission computer that you have taken your foot off the accelerator and the car is coasting to a stop. If the switch activates (indicating that your foot is off the gas pedal) the transmission shifts into 2nd upon stop and doesn't shift into low until you take off again. This prevents the bump.

    If you have your foot even slightly on the gas as you come to a stop, the switch will not activate and the transmission will shift all the way to low and you will feel the bump. You can create this scenario by braking to a stop with you left foot and keeping your right foot slightly on the gas.

    If the transmission bumps with your foot off the gas, I would look for a defective accelerator switch. You could also have a sticking throttle cable that is preventing the accelerator from going to a "full off" position. I believe the accelerator switch is mounted on the throttle body in the 1997, maybe even as part of the throttle position sensor. I'd have to check the manual to be sure. I know in earlier models it was a microswitch mounted right at the accelerator pedal itself, but I remember reading somewhere it is on the throttle body in the current generation.

    Mr. Vivona
  • ineed2carsineed2cars Member Posts: 2
    I wrote message 1014 and you responded with message 1015. It wasn't the accelerator cable sticking because there was never any unusual increase in the idle speed plus the cable operates very smoothly. I checked the throttle position sensor (TPS) which is where the switch that you mentioned is located. There was proper continuity and non-continuity at terminals 1 and 2 of the TPS depending on whether or not the accelerator pedal was depressed or released. This can be expected though, given the intermittent nature of the bump. Based on your obvious knowledge, I decided to change and set the TPS anyhow. I am happy to say that it has been nine days and 200 miles and the bump has not occurred except for the first two times that I stopped after changing and setting the TPS. My car has never gone 9 days or 200 miles without bumping since this problem began 2 years ago.

    I am a little confused about the two bumps immediately after the TPS was changed and set. If the computer tells the transmission not to shift to first while stopping based on patterns that the computer has learned then it would make sense to me that the bumps would occur immediately after changing and setting the TPS until the computer learned the new pattern. However, if the computer tells the transmission not to shift to first while stopping based on the signal that it immediately receives from the TPS then I am confused since the problem seems to be fixed but the TPS would have sent erroneous signals on the first two stops.

    Please tell me that the computer sends a signal to the transmission based on a learned pattern.

    Thank you Mr. Vivona.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    ineed2cars -- I do not believe that the transmission has to learn the accelerator switch, but maybe it learns the throttle position and both may play a part in preventing a downshift to first. Time will tell.

    Any time you replace the TPS and adjust it, you should clean the throttle body first. The procedure can be found at:
    http://www.geocities.com/diamanteowner/article3.htm

    While cleaning the throttle body, make sure it is not worn in the inside area where the throttle plate closes at idle, or the throttle plate could occasionally be sticking just above idle. By replacing and adjusting the TPS, you may have moved the "switch point" a bit making is less likely to cause the problem. After cleaning the throttle body, readjust the TPS.

    Or, instead of cleaning now, just leave everything as it is and see if the problem comes back. If it does, clean and adjust as recommended.

    Mr. Vivona
  • sam73455sam73455 Member Posts: 1
    I am from Kuwait. I have a Mitsubishi Magna which is the same as Diamante, year 2002.It comes in full options. Only 10000 miles. My problem is transmission many times doesn't shift to the 4th gear until the rpm reaches over 4000. I guess it's because of the learning transmission but it needs alot to learn. I have a vibration around 60 m/h ever since I bought it. tires were replaced and balanced..help anyone...thanx.
    Sam
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