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Comments
at 35 pounds, change oil and filter every 2500 miles.
Bought the car new.
No problems thus far, car has 34,000, but highway mileage
at 60-65 mph is never better than 28 to 28.7 (the 28.7 is
rare) and need to drive conservatively to achieve that.
Drive 70 mph and it goes down to 27 mpg.
Combined city roads/country highways (mostly 45 to 55 mph
with a few traffic lights and stops) comes to 18 to 22 miles per gallon, often just 19.
This mileage has been pretty much the same since day one.
Someone wrote about "reflash" to engine and transmission
computers. Is that likely to help? Any other suggestions?
When I drive my 1993 Honda Accord, 4-cylinder, automatic
with 284,000 miles, I get 33 to 34 mpg highway at 70-75 and 24 to 26 on the country/city trips. Engines are about
the same.
Again, zero problems with the Hyundai thus far except
for the constantly same and disappointing gas mileage.
We take excellent car of all our cars, as evidenced by the
Honda Accord.
Any suggestions? I read where some of you folks hit 30 and
32 on highways and 24/25 in city only (which we never
encounter).
Say have you ever had your fuel filter changed?
i owned 2004 sonata and 1999 accent not 1 problem. please see my letter attached i had to cut out some of the words because it only allowed so many characters at hyundai sight.The second rep her name is Nikki was the golden girl of your customer service department and should be rewarded. Very personable, professional,had extreme knowledge. She really helped things happen quickly. She went out of her way to listen to me even though i was hysterical and to the point of crying. I spoke to your other rep Jared and he was the complete opposite, very frank, and bothered, and he hung up on me. I asked him to please talk to the GM at the dealership and I explained the situation, he said he would call and call me back. I asked if we could please call 3 way and even offered to do it from my end, reluctant he said yes. I got the dealership on phone and went to click back and actually heard his silence while i had GM from dealership on phone and you could actually hear him hang up. I then had to call back go through 50 prompts and given the same number i had just called by 2 of your reps and finally got someone that could obviously do circles around the other 4 fools i spoke to. Also I told Jared that the dealership was trying to get me back down there like NOW and wanted me to return their rental and I really needed his help before i went back down there. He kept putting me off and when I asked him what I should do and that this car was a lemon and I guess I would have to file a suit he told me to do what I have to do, what kind of CS rep response is that? He needs an attitude adjustment, not only did I get a poorly put together brand new car but now I have to listen to some rinky dink jerk tell me to do what I need to do after I have bought 2 cars cash from Hyundai and also put 8,000 into this one of my own hard earned money to be told this?He doesnt need to be retrained he needs to be fired. I have been doing business with Hyundai since 1999 and I have never had a problem with Hyundai until I came across this lemon that I now have. I thank Nikki for completely resolving my problem with the scandilous dealership and giving me more confidence in Hyundai as a whole minus Jared of course. I have to tell you I am extremely disappointed in my 2005 Sonata and let you know I owned a 2004 Sonata and never had the problems I am having with this car that only has 16,000 miles on it.As soon as I get it back I am putting a for sale sign on it, and reconsidering a new make, I am also driving the loaner which is brand new 2006 sonata and it is very nice looking w great features but it drives like a bumpy dump truck. Sonata was suppposed to be mid size luxury sedan, and this reminds me of my first new car in 1993 which was a Honda Civic base model, but that car even rode much smoother that this thing. I am sorry to say but I really like my 99 Accent minus being afraid of getting into an accident with it, but it was zippy and not 1 problem even at 80,000 miles which was nothing but new tires and a new clutch. The car I have now has and had opil burning at 5,000 miles new, rust under car and above all my trans and clutch all going out without any signs or warnings in one day. What is going on with the company now? I really wish someone would help me get another 2005 Sonata and I told the dealership since day 1 that there was something not right about this car and that I wanted the same model but a different one and told me dont worry yet here not even a year later I am out a car for almost 2 weeks. Unheard of and I have owned 7 brand new cars 3 which were clutch. I will never buy another clutch from Hyundai again, had I know the warranty and that something like this could happen at 16,000 miles. If someone is actually reading this and knows how they can help me to get away from this wretched lemon of a car, please by all means HELP me, I would even take a left over 2005 but no one seems to want to help me now that they got my money and had me sign on the dotted line, god knows this purchase was a huge mistake and I am the one that is going to suffer on this one as well as lose value.My number is 908-287-1026 I would really like to speak to someone about how as a loyal customer I can have Hyundai help resolve getting away from this horrid car, I obviously dont think it is the company but I do believe either this car was slapped together so quickly that it was overlooked at insepction time or i dont know what. Did I mention all the windows from day one were off track and that they actually and always have wiggled , they are not secure in the track, dealership told me it was fine but i have many friends that witness that no it is not fine. Did I mention that the battery had been dead 3 times for no apparent reason? No lights no doors open nothing. Did I mention that everytime I get out of the car and touch the door or my 4 yr old in her car seat there is a huge surge of electrical shock going through me to her or the car itself and did I mention the keyless entry sometimes works sometimes not oh and that the warning for the seatbelt has never really ever dinged when your seat belt is off like it did for the first couple of months. Tell me i dont have a lemon? If anyone is listening or cares please contact me. Again back to Nikki I thank her for her kindness to a stressed out single mother.I just want a car I can rely on turn on the key and go.Did I mention that my car going out like that also almost caused a major accident and that I have witnesses to it from other cars?
Thank you for your efforts Nikki but I dont think this is over yet other than the problem you solved that day, but I am sure this will be just the beginning.
The cars warranty has expired in which I have had the problem since the car was purchased, the dealer was going to charge me 85.00$ because they didn't find anything wrong go figure.
No problems at all. Everything does what it's supposed to do. Loved the heated seats in the winter.
MPG has been good for the type of driving I do. Most trips are no more than 4 miles, plus stop signs & traffic lights. Worst MPG was 16.7. Typical MPG was 17-18 in the winter. With warmer weather I'll probably get the EPA rating of 19, or better. I haven't driven enough trips of 40-50 highway miles to get a real handle on it. But 50 miles of highway in ~ 250 miles increases the MPG to 24+/-.
I don't understand what you mean by that?
Is that as high as you can rev the engine in 1st or 2nd gear?
)
When you lock or unlock by the remote, the lights flash but the horn does not sound. I think that's nice. There are many times that I am annoyed when I hear other cars' horns sound because the owner is locking the car.
My alarm has never gone off, as far as I know? How did you trip your alarm? Window open and then reach inside to open the door?
I suggest this based on a headlight function. I leave my headlights on all the time. When I remove the key the headlights turn off but the parking lights remain on. They turn off when I open the door.
Another feature, when you turn off the car your power windows will be operational for about 30 seconds OR until you open the door, which ever comes first.
Good luck...let me know what happens. Thanks
A subsequent owner would receive the remainder of the 5 yr./60,000 mile basic warranty. He/she would also receive the remainder of the state and federal emissions system waranties.
Yep - my '03 Sonata's port-of-entry installed system goes into 30 seconds of wake-the-dead mode if something triggers it, but it remains silent when I arm or disarm it with the keyfob - just brief flashing of the four exterior directional signal lights. Have you contacted a Hyundai dealer about this as a warranty item?
About a month later, while driving 60 MPH on the freeway, the car made a loud noise and shuddered. The check engine light came on and I finished the drive to work. Well I then discovered that Reverse was gone and the transmission was shot. I was at 103,000 and SOL. Dealer said $2500 for a rebuild. Found a local shop (via 2 referrals) that did it for $1290 parts/labor and tax.
This has really soured my opinion of Hyundai. I did all the required maintenance and in over 27 years of careful driving, have never had a major component (trans or engine) fail on me.
Still no rattles or squeaks. Very quiet and smooth ride. Responsive V6 with good local MPG for my type of local usage (close to EPA rating of 19). Meets or exceeds highway EPA milage rating of 29. (using cruise control helps MPG as well as avoiding speeding tickets
I've just bought a used 2003 with Automatic and V6, 68K miles. Timing belt had NOT been done. The (non-Hyundai ) Dealer I bought it from gave a free 90 day/3K miles 50-50 warranty (they pay 50% of all labor and materials for any major issues with the car, other than the clicker I bought). The Hyundai dealer I needed to take it to for the new key pulled it in, said it was in great shape except the Timing Belt wasn't done at 60K, and there was an outstanding recall. They did the recall work for free (and ended up replacing the Condensor and Compressor for the AC, NO CHARGE-Hyundai picked up the ($1500+) tab... Woot! My next car will almost certainly be a Hyundai when they do things like that for second owners, too!)
Dealer quoted $1100 US. My normal mechanic quoted $366.
I'm having the timing belt done as my Christmas present next month. From my mechanic, of course, though I'll still be occasionally visiting the Hyundai dealer for other things. The car is in PERFECT shape, I paid $9500 for it (it had all options except the Trip Computer and TCS) with OTD at $10111.97. Add on the $200 for a new key fob, key, and key fob programming, one side marker light bulb and the inspections we had done to insure ourselves we knew what were issues with the car, plus the $366, we're at <$11K for the nicest vehicle we've ever owned (and we've owned some nice ones, like my 1989 Camaro with all options and a big V8, or our 1996 Plymouth Voyager Rallye with all the options). :shades:
Sounds like you got yourself a nicely cared-for Sonata V6. While your mechanic is at it, if you don't mind spending several bucks for a replacement gasket and a little labor, request your mechanic pull one of the cam covers for a looksee at the internals of the top end. That'll immediately tell you whether there's any sludge issue. If possible, be there at the time he pulls that cover - nothing like verifying with your own eyes. Ideally, all you'll see is spotlessly clean machinery mounted to equally spotless, bright cast aluminum. A slight reddish-brown discoloration from a light varnish coating is nothing to be worried about. A gritty, black goo over everything including the inside of the cam cover is imminent life-support news. I'm betting you're OK, but it's always nice to know everything is well. Final word - if you at some point have the automatic transaxle drained and refilled, make sure ONLY SP-III ATF is used. The only brands for this concoction are Mitsubishi, Hyundai, and KIA - and they're only available through their respective dealerships at that. Since Mitsubishi has not licensed production for this formula to blenders that sell through the aftermarket, there are NO aftermarket equivalents regardless what anyone else may tell you. I think I know of one alternate ATF that may fill the bill for finnicky Hyundai ATs, but since I'm not even willing to risk it in my own car, I certainly have no intention of tempting you.
This was the best solution I could get when the housing market collapsed due to speculators this year (I've owned the place since 1992... no speculator, me). So this car needs to last 5 years, 100K more miles, minimum. So any advice to make this car last and run well for the next 100K is well appreciated.
Just wanted to show it off.
If you go to the bottom of the last page of messages, you'll see the post box. You don't have to "reply" to another message to get it, but if you do you get a link to "start a new thread" which will do that for you. Hope that helps.
Road noise is good, could be a little better, but it's good. Some of that may just be the high speed/bad roads I was judging it by, since I never noticed it around town, only on the highway. Biggest complaint is actually only REFLECTED sound, when the car is running beside another car or solid barrier at high speed. That's almost certainly the tires; I'll be replacing them with better ones next year.
Cheers
Thanks
To be honest, I can't say, though I would imagine that the dash IS different, because of the difference in placement, if nothing else.
I have woodgrain as well (unfortunately, the place where my car's photo was online has now taken it down, or I would post that photo... they had a dash shot.).
The Speedometer winds to 150 mph (~240 KPH) and is on the right. Tach is on the left. Fuel and Temp are in the center, high, above the Drive selector (which is above the Trip Odometer/Trip Computer) and the twin rows of "notice" lights (high beam, door ajar, trunk open, fog lamps, etc). Beside that (to the right) is the small LED for the Manumatic Transmission to show what gear the car is in.
The entire instrument cluster is just right of center from in front of the driver, maybe a centimeter or two, I think, though I could be wrong.
Light Dimmer, Cruise Power, and TC engage(if equipped; mine isn't) are on the dash, to the left of the steering, but below the main instrument cluster, below the driver air vent.
There is NO way that I could see that the inner door panels should fit a right hand drive car; there are drastically different features on the drivers and passengers front doors (rear is another issue; those should be the same). Passenger, for example, has only a window switch and is somewhat more narrow. Driver has power mirror control, four window switches with an auto down/auto up for the driver, power door lock rocker switch, window lockout pushbutton (turns off the window switches to the non-driver spots, giving driver only control of windows) on the woodgrain armrest top, and below that (on the door itself, above the in-door storage cubby) is the gas cap and trunk release pulls.
That's from the tail. Here's the dash
And here's the backseat area.
So once and for all, for any questions, I can point to this post.