Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Mazda MPV: Problems & Solutions

18081838586

Comments

  • lg2207lg2207 Member Posts: 28
    The dealer ran scanner: they claim two codes: 1) #2 Coil= $360 parts/labor & 2) Transfer Range Switch= $400 parts/labor--- dont think I have a choice: will ask for a print out of the codes when I pick up the car
  • lg2207lg2207 Member Posts: 28
    After hearing the noise for over 1year on our '02 LX; all of sudden after new tires on fronts; the car was completely out of alignment; three trips to dealer tying to align vehiclet; they decided to replace the steering rack and voila!!!---- no more squeaking andno more alignment issues.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    Even MPV owner's manual does not mention about transmission oil change, my mazda dealer service manager advises flush the transmission and change the oil every 30,000 mile.
  • jipsterjipster Member Posts: 6,244
    "my service manager advises....every 30,000 miles"

    I'm sure he does. ;) But, it's my understanding that unless you are towing or engaging in other similar strenuous driving conditions a fluid change is not necessary. A visual inspection of fluid every 6 months should be fine.

    My dealer recommends an oil change every 3,000 miles. The owner manual recommends to change it every 7,500 miles.I change ours between every 4,000- 5,000 miles.
    2020 Honda Accord EX-L, 2011 Hyundai Veracruz, 2010 Mercury Milan Premiere, 2007 Kia Optima
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    Hey all. I have a 2003 MPV with the single CD player/radio deck. My 3 year old dropped in 2 quarters into the CD slot... ah, the joys of kids! We got one out, but the other is in there and from what it looks like it's interfereing with the loading/unloading mechanism. Does anyone have an directions on how to remove the player/dashboard bezels so I can get in there and take a good look? Thanks!
  • lrowlandlrowland Member Posts: 8
    I believe it is the same as my 2000 MPV. Take the two screws out above the speedometer. Then, there are about 9 clips that just pull out w/a little tug. What I did was put a rag over a screwdriver and started a the driver's side of the dashboard bezel and worked my way around. It was very easy. In order to get it all the way off, you will have to pull the transmission down to 1. Hope this helps.
  • mjvchicagomjvchicago Member Posts: 149
    Hey thanks. I saw those 2 screws that you mentioned and thought that those couldn't be the only things holding that bezel down. Knowing there are clips helps. Will let you know what I find.
  • stu17stu17 Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    I am having the same problem. I got it to start and the engine light stayed on, so took it to my mechanic who read an air flow sensor error in the computer. Took it to Mazda where they replaced it (free, it's part of pollution control system, so under longer warranty than the rest of the car). A week later, same problem starting the car, even worse than before. Had it towed in and they have spent two days trying to find the problem. They reprogrammed the ignition but that didn't fix anything.
    Did your problem get resolved?
  • stu17stu17 Member Posts: 3
    I forgot to mention, I have a 2000 MPV LX with 65000 miles.
    The starting problem (cranks but won't stay running) showed up once months ago, but has gotten bad in the last month. Like others who have posted, I can keep it running by stepping on the gas. Also noticed the exhaust smells a little strong.
  • lrowlandlrowland Member Posts: 8
    I had the same problem; had the Idle Air Control Valve replaced ($95 part at NAPA and $45 labor). Now it starts and stays running. Still having a "chugging" sensation when accelerating, though. Not sure what that one is.
  • stu17stu17 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you. I called the dealer this morning and suggested they try the bypass idle air control valve, as you and others suggested.. Eight hours later, the service rep called to say that they had found the problem, the bypass idle air control valve. Brilliant. They too charged about $95 for the part, $78 in labor.

    Important lesson learned: bring a description of the problem in writing and hand it to the service rep. The dummy at Alhambra Mazda (CA) listened to my full description of how the engine cranked, but would not hold idle. I could keep it running by stepping on the gas but it would turn off as soon as I released the pedal. Most often a problem when cold. All he wrote down on the service request was "Engine won't start. Advise." So the mechanics started with the computer, tried igniition reset and who knows what else. They had the car for 3 days. Tonight when I picked up the car, the mechanic -- the second guy to look at it -- said he tried starting it, stepped on the gas, saw that it would run until asked to idle, then new right away it was the idle valve. So the mechanic knew what to do and probably could have solved the problem in 10 minutes if he had been given some description of the symptoms.
  • africanafrican Member Posts: 2
    The heat in my 2000mpv. LX suddenly stopped working. I took to it to the dealer, and I was told I needed a heater core, but then an outside mechanic told me to reverse the heater hose in the engine compartment, which I did, and the heater worked very well for a week, and then stopped working again. Now I have no heat, and it's the end of October, and We're getting into winter season. Has anyone experienced this? please let me know. I was told the vehicle being 5 yrs old should not have problem with the heater core at this stage.
  • cubby66cubby66 Member Posts: 3
    Have them check the coils.....that was my problem.
  • lrowlandlrowland Member Posts: 8
    I've been having the same problem. I actually changed out my coils this past weekend, and the problem is still there. Any other suggestions? I want this thing fixed so I can get rid of it. It has been a maintenance nightmare since I bought it.
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    Awesome! Thank you for that info.

    The local friendly dealer has been procrastinating on this thing for 8months now and mentioned the rack, but said that Mazda Corp would not cover it.
    Did they cover your issue under warranty??

    They told me that this is 'normal' and that GM vehicles have the same issue!!!
  • exit56exit56 Member Posts: 9
    I'm beginning to see a pattern here. I too have a 2002 MPV, just off warranty, with about 35K miles.

    It started to run rough so I took it to a local mechanic (not dealer) who diagnosed a misfire in one cylinder. Six new platinum plugs later (and a few hundred $$$) I'm on the road again.

    A few weeks later we have the same problem. This time they find water in one of the coils!?!? Several hundred $$$ more and I head home again.

    Two days later, the Check Engine Light comes on and it's running rough again. Now the mechanic advises that 2 cylinders are misfiring.

    I called the dealer and they professed to be unaware of any chronic problems with the '02 minivans.
  • lrowlandlrowland Member Posts: 8
    Changed out plugs and wires over the weekend, and all seems well for now; however, I have a bad o2 sensor now! Always seems to be something!!!
  • slikchicslikchic Member Posts: 2
    (I bought my 92 mpv v6 about 1 yr ago, with 96,000 miles. No problems, besides buying 4 brand new tires. Now its at 106,000. Serviced regularly and gets full service at the gas station 2-4 times a month)

    My mpv has overheated once because of a radiator hose had a hole in it, a little smokey, replaced it, was all good.

    Now my van will overheat if its not filled with water. It needs to be refilled everyday. But when it is filled it starts up and can drive for atleast 100 miles before I have to put water again. But drives ok, still has power. I'm thinking my radiator is cracked. Boyfriend says blown head gasket. I say its not blown,...yet.

    [I had a 91 sentra that a friend was driving, overheated, majorly smokin', given time to cool off the car did not start up again. Had it towed, and my mechanic friend said "yep, its blown, alright...big job...".
    That is my experience with a blown head gasket, car=not driveable.
    My boyfriends brother also was driving his car, overheated, tons of smoke, pulled over, let it cool down, couldn't get it to start, left the car to be towed and never driven again.]

    (As far as I am concerned, blown head gasket = :sick: major damage, big expensive(to me) job, car cannot drive, must be towed and fixed before it is drivable again. Or is it that 2 out of 2 incidents was the extreme experience?)

    So,..... I need to know...

    After a blown head gasket, is the vehicle still drivable?
    If it is, would it run differently, would you be able to tell just by driving it? :confuse:

    Let me know if you need more info.
    Thanks so much for hearing me out.
  • bob57bob57 Member Posts: 302
    If you do not see water sitting under you van or water obviously leaking out somewhere then, yes, I would say it is a head gasket. The water pump is also a place to check.

    My, since traded, '92 MPV did the same thing. Radiator went south and it overheated immediately. I replaced the radiator but compression check showed the left head gasket had blown.

    Good luck!
  • slikchicslikchic Member Posts: 2
    my friend wants to buy it from me, I got a 94 78,000 miles :P . would $800 be too much to ask for it? he knows its condition and KBB say $1400 in fair condition.

    Should it be driving any differently? It feels just about the same, and no unusual sounds and the check engine light dont come on.

    Thanks for responding so quickly. Much appreciated!
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    Could you tell me where in the US you had this done? I am going into a north side of St. Paul dealer next week to have my front end looked at. I have an extended warranty that is suppose to cover the rack and assorted other steering components.

    This is so frustrating! It sounds like it's coming from the steering shaft and seems so cheap. Can't believe there are only a few MPV's making this noise. The dealer says they have never heard of such a thing....!!
  • hawkehawke Member Posts: 1
    Hello,
    I just bought a '98 MPV without a tow package and want to upgrade it as a tow vehicle. Your post about the Monroe air shock sounds like an excellant solution for that part. How well has it worked? What other items are included in the Tow Package? Thank you,
    Ron Hawke
  • gleroglero Member Posts: 3
    :( TODAY I JUSY NOTICED MY 2000 MPV OVERHEATING HERE AND THERE, IT WOULD ALMOST REACH THE TOP WHEN I KILL THE ENGINE FOR A MINUTE IT WOULD RESTART AND TEMP WOULD SHOW NORMAL AGAIN UNTIL THE REVS GO UPM THEN THE TEMP GOES UP. jUST HAD OIL CHANGE YESTERDAY AND THEY PUT IN 5/30 KENDALL SYNTH/BLEND OIL, I WONDER IF THAT MAKES A DIFFERENCE. ANYONE WITH THIS OVERHEATING PROBLEM CAN SHARE YOUR EXPERIENCES HERE.
    THANK YOU,
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Please turn off your CAPS LOCK. Most members in the forums will not read posts typed like that.

    thank you

    Host
  • gleroglero Member Posts: 3
    Sorry about the other post, I was in a hurry to go o work and didn't get a chance to check this forum until now. I was asking about overheating readings on the guage, and idle running high when this happens. The fan is also running on high most of the time. I just had a oil change and they replaced the oil with 5/30 Kendall Syth/blend don't know if that matters. This never happened b4 but I will try to drive it again after work and see if it sill happens. Has anyone here experienced the same situation? I need some advice b4 taking it to the shop. I call my local Mazda Service and they just said bring it in and they will run tests, there's no way we can tell on the phone.
    G
  • gleroglero Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    Discover few days ago my MPV was overheating, after really checking it thoroughly everyday, found a little dripping of coolant at the front pass. side. Brought it to a mechanic that I usually go to and told him of this and he mentioned that he just did another one of these last week, same year and model. It was a cracked plastic radiator wher the double fan mount is. He showed me the one he took out last week and it was a vertical crack about 3 inches long. I couldnt see mine until he takes it out, but it was wet in the same area. He said the other one took him 8 hours labor. And he's done 3 (2000 & 2001 MPVs)already this year and mine is the fourth with the same problem. Oh yeah he said the other thermostat was stuck on another MPV and overheated and might have caused the crack. I saw and felt this toy radiator he pulled out and it's so thin that when I squeezed the big hose connector,it cracked. This sounds like another typical problem for these MPVs.
  • bertie1bertie1 Member Posts: 2
    blew the head gasket in my 93 MPV 2.6L and had the engine rebuilt after piston blew (coincidence??), now the gas mileage is down 1/3 what it was before. Not that it was any good before, I have taken it back three times and they keep telling me its still "tight". Its been 6 months, can't see still saying the parts are still "tight". I have changed everything including O2 sensor with no luck. Any ideas?
  • aventuresaventures Member Posts: 5
    Hi..wasn't sure if you found an answer yet. Sounds like either the thermostat is bad or you have a head gasket problem. I had the same problem and it was a head gasket. I shopped around and it repaired for $550.
  • heartcomheartcom Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 93 Mazda MPV and it has no operator's manual with it and it doesn't get very good gas mileage and would like to know what is the best oil to use in it for performance and gas mileage? Also would like to know if I should have the transmission filter and fluid changed. It has 114,000 miles on it. Does anyone know where I can get an operator's manual?
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    Try eBay - I bought my 2000 MPV owner's manual through it.
  • criledocriledo Member Posts: 27
    Be careful with changing oil types (blends, synthetic, etc.) at such mileage, you could mess you engine up if you use a strong cleansing oil. The viscosity range should be stated on the filler cap, if not, any auto store can tell you. Also, have routine service done to the transmission, change of lubricant is recommended - cycle depends on climate where you live, the hotter, the more often. We live in Texas (really hot) and I do transmission services yearly. In case you are not aware, there is a filter inside that requires service. It is not a bad idea to do this. Also, I have been through the ups and downs of low mileage minivans, I have conluded that few vans actually offer mileages even close to those mentioned by EPA estimates, especially if you use AC a lot.
  • musa1musa1 Member Posts: 1
    I did a major tune up on a 2000 MPV last week. 2 day's later engine light came on. I took it back to mechanic who now says the car will not start and he spent 6 hours diagnosing the cause without success. I guess I should have taken the car to the dealer in the first place.

    Any ideas, please? Thanks
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    I used to be able to get to this forum by typing "mazda mpv" as the search string for the forums. But now it gives an error message, and the only way I can get to this is via the vehicle menu. Any idea why?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    a few burps in new servers...it'll be fine.
  • ownermpv05ownermpv05 Member Posts: 1
    I drive a lot in stop and go traffic. the car is stopped in traffic but must keep my foot on the brake. or it will go forward. I have automatics for most of my driving life. and this problem if came up was simple to fix. But the dealer says the idle can't be changed on my 05 have 2000 miles on it. I feel this is unsafe. if you don't move with the stop and go traffic,. half the cars behind me horn like it the end of the world. this happen if I have to shift from neutral to drive.. Is there any fix for this problem.. I5 is a [non-permissible content removed] to drive anyway but even a little chance if the car flow pattern brings out the car horns like blowing down the walls of jerhico.
  • lostinayltlostinaylt Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem. My mechanic is getting a "Non-Specified" error when he hooks it to the computer. The only thing that happened that was unusual was my husband tripped the alarm system. The mechanic suspects it has "shut-off" the fuel. He gets a good fuel pressure reading so he thinks it's security system related. We tried to find the reset button but unlike all other early Mazdas, there is no distributor in the 2000 MPV.

    Anyone have any ideas? I called Mazda and they're insisting it come in to the dealership. In my case that involves towing it over 50 miles.

    Thanks
  • lostinayltlostinaylt Member Posts: 2
    Just heard from my mechanic.... They were able to get the engine started long enough to diagnose and find the problem (hopefully) They are replacing the Cam Sensor. It runs about $139 for the part and about $40 in labor.

    I hope this helps.
  • jgambalejgambale Member Posts: 2
    change all
  • larkin0326larkin0326 Member Posts: 3
    My 2003 MPV LX has recently started having problems with idling after starting, and soon dies. I have seen a few posts regarding this issue. I found a noise in one specific part as the van dies and I believe it to be the Idle Air Control Valve. Is there anyone able to identify this part? I can email a picture if there is anyone that can help me.
  • larkin0326larkin0326 Member Posts: 3
    Update: It looks like it may be the EGR valve. Anyone have any experience with thist?
  • larkin0326larkin0326 Member Posts: 3
    I don't know if this is your problem or not. But I had something similar on my '03 MPV. Turned out to be a cracked PVC pipe, which was on recall. We went to one dealer who didn't have time to help, and I called another dealer who recognized the problem right away and had it running back to normal.
  • burroughs3burroughs3 Member Posts: 3
    I have been noticing a hot smell from the front passenger side of the engine. Sometimes it smells like sulfur. Around the time it first occurred a week or so ago, the check engine light came on and has stayed on. Could this be a PCV or some other component?
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    It is definitely a sulfur smell, and not a burning smell? If you are in the snow belt, there is a possibility that your alternator could be going bad, but I don't think that it will trigger a CEL. Did you get the code read at AutoZone?
  • burroughs3burroughs3 Member Posts: 3
    It was only a sulfur smell once. Last night after driving from Columbus to Cincinnati (100 miles) it was just a burning smell on the front passenger side under the hood: the alternator is down under on that side. Hmmmm. No, I have not had the code read at Auto Zone. Do you mean the parts store?
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    Yes, the parts store - they read codes for free and tell you what it is, so that you will buy any needed parts there. Other shops will charge you a lot for doing the same thing. My alternator lasted for about six months after the first episode of very bad electrical burning smell, but CEL usually does not come on with an alternator problem - mostly the battery light.
  • burroughs3burroughs3 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, I will have the code read and see if I can narrow the problem down.
  • mpvinvampvinva Member Posts: 8
    Hello - I just experienced a problem with my '01 MPV, idling low and behaving as if it were misfiring, when stopped in drive gear or in park. Seemed to be just fine once it came off of idle. Turned out that the air intake manifold gaskets were leaking badly. I had these replaced and it took care of the problem. Also improved power and my highway gas mileage increased 4-5 mpg. I bought the van used and always thought the mileage was terrible. This explains why. However, it took awhile until the condition deteriorated to the point that if affected engine performance at idle.
  • mpvinvampvinva Member Posts: 8
    I have had my MPV to the dealership six times for a P300 code. The first trip they diagnosed it as an ignition coil problem. They replaced and it ran fine for two weeks and then happened again. Checked it out and said the part they put in was faulty. Kept for two days and drove okay for another two weeks and then same problem. Today the pulled back the carpet on the passenger side, exposing the computer and wiring harness and indicated that there was a crimped/loose wire. Taped it up and sent us on our way. 30 minutes later, same problem. Has anyone else had a wiring issue related to the ignition system? Should this be a hard problem to resolve since they have indicated that they know exactly which wire it is?? Lastly, I believe that their original repair was not required, that it has been the intermittent wiring issue all along, but they don't seem to be listening to the logic of this. Any ammunition that can be provided??
  • swampdswampd Member Posts: 1
    Hi, lamc -

    Have you had any luck with your starting problem? I've been experiencing the same problem for the past few weeks - and, of course, at THE most inconvenient times! Have had the 2000 MPV at the dealer, but again, of course, the van started right up for them every time...

    :mad:

    Thanks!

    Marsh
  • avgeekavgeek Member Posts: 1
    My used 2001 MPV has an odd problem - after a heavy rain, you can hear a "sloshing" noise coming from under the seat area (the interior of the car stayed dry, though). After some heavy rain, late this summer, the sloshing sound didn't stop for quite some time & now the entire van smells like mold & mildew! It is at its worst under the back-most/roll down seats (when you open the hatch, you want to hold your breath!).

    Has anybody else come across this/does anybody have ANY idea how to fix it.

    Thanks!
This discussion has been closed.