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- 2003 LeSabre 2008 Cobalt 2014 Malibu
I don't find a contemporaneous Fox News story on E15. I found one from last year. Sounds pretty factual to me. We're talking about big money here for several large companies in the US that donate to congress that supply the alcohol from corn for auto fuel at the expense of inflation in the food market due to diversion of corn from being used as a livestock food. But the gov't data says there's no inflation. My inflation gauge says about 10%/annun at the grocery. The increase in use of corn says that the gov't isn't ignoring the lobbyists as promised in 2008 election.I'd really like to know if the information is true! It was a gentle dig because i really don't know...it sounds serious....you will void your warranty from 10 manufacturers if you use E15 gasoline. They said this gas is available in many states. It will ruin your gaskets and other engine parts if used. This was on TV as a news story. If anyone has good knowledge I would appreciate hearing back
E15 Gas voids warranty on many cars!
What a horrible piece of "journalism." "This fuel is approved and pushed by our government."
If one looks at the graphics indicated in the story, it states that E15 is sold by 10 stations in Kansas, Nebraska and Iowa. In reality it's available in other states but they didn't bother to do their research. Further, E15 has to be marked as such and can't be sold as normal gasoline.
So if someone takes 5 seconds to read the label inside their gas filler door, they will realize what they need to use in terms of fuel.
As for voiding warranties, it is the same as using the incorrect octane or oil in one's car. If you don't operate or maintain a vehicle correctly, the warranty may be voided.
IMHO, it's nothing but a scare piece.
Fair and Balanced! B) B) B)
Maybe the Lean Forward network can give you their version and explain about warranties that might be negated by E15 use. http://smarterfuelfuture.org/resource-center/videos
First thought would be to try turning the key to ON withOUT Cranking for two seconds to run the pump. Then OFF, and then back to ON for 2 seconds to run the pump. Repeat one more time. THEN turn to crank and see if it starts more quickly. That would indicate the system losing pressure since you are priming the system by running the pump before cranking.
Second would be that a temperature sensor for the coolant has failed and is giving the wrong temperature to the computer. This means the injectors are not putting enough gasoline in for a cold start.
Third is that it might be the MAF--mass air flow sensor. I am not an expert but with some of those disconnecting the snap on connector before cranking and then seeing if it makes a difference in how the car starts _might_ indicate something.
If it were the throttle position sensor, you might notice some odd reactions other times from the computer getting the wrong indication about the position of the accelerator pedal. You didn't mention anything like that.
To paraphrase:Global warming a myth? Wow, apparently some have successfully avoided viewing pictures of Greenland or the Antarctic ice sheet. By the way, global warming is not weather it is climate. Big difference. I am betting on my property in mid Maryland becoming beach front for my grand children.
Wow. I recommend that some catch up on the growth of the ice caps the last couple of years. As well, they might want to catch up on the misleading interpretation of data that the global warming group was caught in several years ago when emails were exposed.
Otherwise, I would also suggest avoiding this political topic because others have differing, varied opinions on this highly scientific topic that has been hijacked as a political financial issue by the carbon TAX folks.
Did you check the fuse diagrams in the owners manual to see if there is a separate fuse for the left and the right doors? On sedans, IIRC, there is a separate fuse for the front and for the rear doors. Then your next question is if there is a control module in that door that takes the commands and passes them to the appropriate motors. The control module may be defective or the power wire to it may have broken where it flexes passing from the A-pillar into the front of the door, usually through a rubber protector sleeve.
To avoid wasting money, you're gonna need to do some detective work with an electrical meter after checking for fuses.
I've waited to post because I think others will know more and know better. But I think you've answered your own problem here with the burnt contacts and burned plastic holding those contacts. That allows movement to cause the contacts to loose connection. Your best bet would be the fuse block from a wrecked truck. Probably lots of work to switch. Or insert fresh contacts into just those spots and cobble insulated and protected wiring to the fuse and the relay contacts.
I have a 97 Tahoe 4 wheel drive 5.7 liter. It is dying while running down the road. When I open the hood I noticed the fuse block was extremely hot I opened it and noticed the fuel pump relay fuse was burnt somewhat and the spot the fuse fits in the fuse block is burnt a little as well. it will go down the road anywhere from 100 yards 2 8 miles before it dies. Any help would be very appreciated assoonas possiblethank you very much sorry if some of the words are running together it's my phone.
Don't forget to remove the battery ground before working here.