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- 2006 BMW 330Ci Coupe
First time lessee here. I'm looking to lease the Q5 TDI Premium Plus 36mos/7500 mi, California sales tax 9%. It has the technology package and upgraded sound system. Here is what I've gotten it down to. I feel it is a good enough deal. But would appreciate some comments and have some questions before i head to the dealership.
M.S.R.P.: $ 53,825.00
Selling Price: $ 49,600.00
Audi Care: $ 860.00
Cash Cap Reduction: $ 62.63
Capped Fees : $ 775.00
Adjusted Cap Cost: $ 51,172.37
Residual %: 61.00%
Residual Value: $ 32,833.25
Upfront Fees (W): $ 37.75
Lic/Reg Upfrt (W): $ 436.00
Total Taxes (W): $ 1,911.68
Amount Due At Start: $ 1,200.00
down payment: $0
Base Monthly Rental: $ 605.19
Total Monthly Payment: $ 658.14
1. I got approved on B tier, don't know why but my credit score is 770. I said I can give a copy of my current Experian report ( all three bureaus have it at 770) but he replied by saying their bank check shows me at 690 and it wouldn't matter what kind of report I gave. They will stick with what they have. So the updated rate is now 0.00154. He never showed me a copy of THEIR credit report. How can that be? I believe he just marked it up using "their" credit report as an excuse to justify it .
2. What are capped fees usually? He said it is an acquisition fee. Isn't that supposed to be included in the MSRP and any selling price should thus include it or a portion of it?
3. I said $0 downpayment, but there is a silly cap reduction cost of $62.63. What the heck happened there?
4. Whatever that capped fee turns out to be, isn't it better to exclude it from the adjusted cap cost? Also just pay Audi care upfront? And keep the ACC basically at selling price.
5. So the final drive off price will be $1200 + Audi care (with sales tax) + that capped fee i am wondering about.
Is this acceptable to do? Most in this forum always say the less money out at the start, the better.
1) The B-tier rate is .00040 over the A-tier rate.. I certainly wouldn't take a deal on B-Tier credit, if I was A-Tier.
2) Acquisition fee is $695 and CA dealer doc fee is capped at $80.. Those are normal.
3) Just rounding off your upfront money to an even number.
4) I like to roll everything that is taxable into the lease payment. It's not really "better", either way. But, there are reasons.
5) See answer to #4.
It looks like a good deal, but I would insist on A-Tier or shop elsewhere.
I think money factor will be about the same, but residuals will be lower... just guessing..
Thanks - thats what i am expecting as well - i ended up putting down a deposit on A above. Do numbers above make sense? This was in north NJ earlier today.
Yes.. my calculations are within $1/mo.
When it senses the front wheels slipping, it automatically engages the rear wheels for extra traction... Frankly, that is the way most compact SUVs work (CR-V, RAV4, etc). Most don't even have the option to lock into AWD, like the Rogue..We live on a gravel road and can only go 15 to 20 mph tops and I clocked it yesterday while driving into town and after 3 minutes, it shut off and we were not at the pavement yet. How does the AWD system work with this off?
For your use, the Subaru would probably be a lot better.
We had a Honda Accord... transmission went out at 19K miles. Replaced under warranty... Never a hiccup, after that. (if that makes you feel any better).
A 26K mile CR-V sounds like a great deal for $16,700. At your rate of mileage, you could drive it for 6 or 7 more years...
Of course, even with buying a used car, you are going to have "payment shock" after leasing the last one.. A 48 month loan on $16K @ 2.9% is $353/mo.
If you look at the long-term, buying that CR-V should be cheaper than anything else, and I assume it's been a good car?