Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions

thebattman · May 2005

Wife's 2002 Intrigue was diagnosed last week with the same exact problem - but dealership would not fix it for "free". Thankfully the extended warranty we bought kicked in and covered most of the repair.

I didn't even know there was a TSB until I had to take the car back yesterday (the SES light came back on after two days). The shop manager at the dealership then let it slip that water in the pump was a known problem. He then checked to be sure the new hose/shield combination had been installed.

They reset the light and sent me on my way - only for the light to come back on 24 hours later....

I'm ticked. I guess this is another example of why GM is facing serious troubles - with massive recalls and their debt being now classified as "junk" status.

dtownfb · May 2005

I have the same situation with my Intrigue. I am losing about quart every 3000 miles. I did see a puff of white smoke come out of the tailpipe on Saturday. I didn't get alramed since I had not driven the car in 4 days.

How do you know when to take it to a shop to take a look at it?

cob · May 2005

According to the manufacturer and dealer it is normal for these engines to use oil. In fact there is a TSB out that states a quart lost over 1500 miles is normal.(I think they have a pact with OPEC) So don't waste your time getting it checked out until you are losing more than a quart between changes.

rs2 · May 2005

Same problem here - light came back on again almost immediately. Ask the morons to check the fuse because they forgot to check mine and it was blown, causing the light to come back on.

charlesd · May 2005

Hi All! I have a 2001 Intrigue that has been great so far, except for this:
Major water collected on the floor board, passenger side after running the air conditioner for a couple of hours the last few days (I vacuumed up about an inch with my shop vac) I couldn't believe there was so much water! I traced it to condensation dripping from the blower moter under the dash on the passenger side. However, there is nothing there to catch or channel the water away (except for the covering that goes over everything under there) so the water simply drips down and collects on the floorboard.

Has anyone experienced this? Does anyone know of a method to either stop the drips, or deal with them? I was hoping to find maybe a manufacturer or after-market fix with a pan and hose to collect and drain off the condensation.

Any ideas anyone??

Thanks!

bornwild · May 2005

Have a 1999 Intrigue which I believe the outside air temp sensor is faulty. Temp reads ok at times and then can be off by 20-40 degrees. If sensor indicates temp below 32, AC will not switch on. Does anyone know where this sensor is located - most service managers won't provide info - want to have a diagnostic session for $85 first. Thanks.

tcjeff · May 2005

I have 65,000 miles on my '99 Intrigue with the Shortstar, and it uses a quart about every 1000 miles - curiously, no drips on the garage floor, so it must be pushing the oil out somewhere when I drive because I don't see smoke out the tailpipe.

cob · May 2005

Mine started blowing smoke at startup, got so bad it filled the garage but stopped right after pulling out onto the street. I thought it was bad valve stem seals or something to that effect. This was at 80000 miles. Took it to the dealer and on the way after driving 80 for 10 miles pulled off at the exit onto another highway I threw a cloud of blue smoke so thick I couldn't see the car behind me. I thought I blew the engine but it was accelerating as normal. The dealer said it was carbon build up on the valves. They performed a GM top engine cleaning which involves removing the plugs and pouring a cleaner into the cylinders and running it until it burns out the carbon. It solved the smoking problem at a $200 cost but 20000 miles later it still uses a quart every 1500-2000 miles and there are no leaks under the car. I have been told that the converter may be burning the oil out of the exhaust so the smoke isn't noticeable but, how long will that happen before the converter needs replacing. GM just doesn't want to own up to poor design. Maybe after the go bankrupt the truth will come out.

rocketman71 · May 2005

We'll I got my 02 Intrigue back last Friday after the dealer had it for 3 days. The technician couldn't find anything wrong with the seals, but it doesn't leak anymore. They replaced all bottom end seals and gaskets, including front and rear main seals. This job would have cost approx $2,000 Cdn dollars. I can't say enough good about the technician and the dealership. They even replaced the washer bottle bracket which had surface corrosion on it. They were so careful with everything you cannot tell they had the entire cradle out. I got a free oil change, coolant, new outer tie rod ends (they had trouble getting the nuts loose) and a wheel alignment. Zero cost to me. Also a rental for three days - Buick Rendezvous - Intrigue is much nicer to drive.
As far as oil burning goes (cob), that clean out procedure is fairly common on the Caddys with the Northstar. Apparently you are not driving it hard enough. They require occasional full throttle wind outs to 6500 to keep the rings from sticking.

margo · May 2005

My car has the same problem...worse after it is warmed up. I got an estimate from someone else here with the same problem, and they said they were quoted about 600 to replace the pressure control silinoid. I still haven't had mine fixed because the problem comes and goes. sometimes it won't do it for weeks, then it does it every day. wierd annoying problem. Sorry I'm not much help.
Margo

cob · May 2005

Actually my foot is to the floor all the time. Best power bands are 30 mph and 60 mph where you get the 2 gear down shifts and take full advantage of the power curve 3500-6500 rpms. I am very hard on all my vehicles so there must be another reason for the carbon buildup. Anyone know of someone who will reprogram the computer to eliminate the 108 mph limiter. The car is only pulling 3500 rpms at 108, should be able to do 130+ without the limiter.

bennycheck · May 2005

charesd, Had the same problem with my '00 GL. There is a drain that's very hard to get to. I went through 2 blower motors before I found it. If you turn your wheels to the right, jack up the passengers side and pull the tire, you may be able to see a small rubber elbow on the firewall. I couldn't see mine till I pulled the rotor off. It's kind of hard to get to so make sure the car is on jack stands before you reach up in there. Just pull the elbow off and you'll find it clogged with road junk. Since I've cleaned mine I haven't had it come back. Wish I knew where it was before I went through the blower motors. Good luck.

bornwild, The outside temp sensor is mounted on a plastic panel behind the radiator. It cost me around $8.00 at the dealers. Takes about 5min to replace and you don't even need any tools. Just unsnap the old one from its mounting hole, unplug it, plug the new one in, and remount it in the hole. It's black and so is the panel so you'll need enough light to see (daytime's best). Buy the sensor first so you'll know what you're looking for. You can get the part # on gm direct parts. Mine was doing the same thing and it fixed the problem. Good luck.

llew · May 2005

I have the 99 Intrigue with a stalling problem, usually shortly after a cold start. Stalls once, then after a rest, restarts and runs fine. 3.5 motor and burns a quart every 1500 miles or so. Dealer tells me it's probably the crankshaft sensor, for $300 plus. Can I tell him to check ignition first?

mwise1 · May 2005

Hey all, this is my first time joining a conversation and I'm still not sure how to post my own issue, so I'm going to piggy back on this message. I'm having a problem with my '98 Intrigue and not sure where to start. My ABS Brake system light came on yesterday and ever since I've had problems with the car shutting down, the tactometer and coolant gauges moving all over the place and the battery disconnecting, along with problems starting the car back up. The ABS Brake light is not flasshing like discribed in the manual and when I pump the brakes or pump the emergency brake it seems to reset itself so that I'm able to start it again. The light just came on while I was driving today and when I came to a complete stop and put the car in park in shut off by itslef again. Any ideas? I am by no means mechanically inclined so I'm just looking for suggestions prior to having to take it to a dealer. Thanks to anyone who chooses to answer. :confuse:

cob · May 2005

I would try the ignition first it is cheaper. Make sure they check for a TSB to reprogram the computer. This fix worked on my 2000 and it hasn't stalled since and that was 9 months and 15,000 miles ago.

graydav · May 2005

I own a 99 Intrigue and started experiencing hard up shifts after 76,000 miles and SES indicator came on.The transmission was rebuilt ( the parts really were worn out ! $2300 ) and I still experience the problem. I have taken it back 5 times as the shop ( reputable trans chain ) replaced all solenoids, the internal trans wire harness, PCS valve mentioned in the GM tech bulletin, speed sensor, throttle pos sensor and the computer 3 times and yet the problem persists. They made an appointment for a GM specialist to find the gremlin in this transmission. Of all of the Olds 4T65 transmission problems out there, I think mine is the WORST !
What do you think, any suggestions ?
DAVGRAY

luvmytrigue · May 2005

I've got a 01 Intrigue with 93K miles. SES light just came on with P0171 engine running lean - both banks. Has anyone seen this before? I suspect it's the mass airflow sensor but searching the web it seems there may be several other causes.. I love this car - it's run like a top since I bought it. Only problems I've had are the ignition key failed and the crankshaft sensor was replaced about 20K miles back... I hope this isn't the end of the line for it - there's nothing else out there now that interests me that's below $30K..

dtownfb · May 2005

I could be wrong but my first guess would be the oxygen sensor. But it could be several things.

racer__x_9 · June 2005

Could be many things, including bad fuel.

Diagnostic Aids
Inspect for the following conditions:

* Inspect the heated oxygen sensor wiring. The sensor pigtail may be routed incorrectly and contacting the exhaust system.
* Verify that the PCM to engine block grounds are clean, tight, and in the proper locations.
* Test the fuel pressure. The system goes lean if the pressure is too low. The PCM may compensate for some decrease. However, if fuel pressure is too low, a DTC P0171 may be set. Refer to Fuel System Pressure Test. See: Component Tests\Fuel System Pressure Test
* Test the fuel injectors. Refer to Fuel In] Coil Test - ECT Between 10-35 Degrees C or Fuel Inj Coil Test - ECT Outside 10-35 Degrees C. See: Component Tests\Fuel Injector Coil Test\ECT Between 10-35 Degrees C (50-95 Degrees F) See: Component Tests\Fuel Injector Coil Test\ECT Outside 10-35 Degrees C (50-95 Degrees F)
* Inspect for any vacuum leaks. Inspect for the following conditions:
* Any disconnected or damaged vacuum hoses.
* An incorrectly installed or malfunctioning crankcase ventilation valve.
* Any vacuum leaks at the Throttle body, the EGR valve, and the intake manifold mounting surfaces.
* Inspect for exhaust leaks. An exhaust leak may cause outside air to be pulled into the exhaust gas stream past the HO2S, causing the system to appear lean. Inspect for exhaust leaks that may cause a false lean condition to be indicated.
* Disconnect the MAF sensor and note if the lean condition is corrected. If the lean condition is corrected by disconnecting the sensor, replace the MAF sensor.
* Test for fuel contamination. Water, even in small amounts, may be delivered to the fuel injectors. The water may cause a lean exhaust to be indicated. Excessive alcohol in the fuel may also cause this condition. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis. See: Fuel Delivery and Air Induction\Fuel\Testing and Inspection
* Inspect for a faulty connection at the PCM. Inspect the harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals and faulty terminal to wire connections.
* Inspect the wiring harness for damage. If the harness appears to be OK, observe the HO2S 1 display on the scan tool while moving connectors and wiring harnesses related to the engine harness. A change in the display indicates the location of the malfunction.

rhouser2 · June 2005

i have a 98 intrigue and have had to replace the sensor as well. when ours went bad the temp said 62 degrees, reguardless of the outside temp. the sensor and the retaining clip and sales tax cost $9.97. thant is not a typo-- $9.97. the sensor is located on the back side of the plastic shield in front of the radiator. open the hood and look down and you will see the plastic shield that funnels the air into the radiator. the sensor is on the radiator side of the plastic shield held in place with a plastic plug. there are 2 wires connected to the sensor. i took a pair of sidecutters and cut the back side of the plastic plug off to get the sensor free of the shield. the 2 wires are a snap locking connection. i plugged in the new sensor. the sensor has a protruding arm that fits into a drepression in the plastic shield to orient it correctly. fastened the sensor to the plastic shiled with a new plug and has worked great since. it took me 20 minutes. i also got a schematic from the parts man to help me. if you want me to send you a copy let me know. please tell us how you got along.

samova · June 2005

Sounds like a bad fuel pressure regulator to me. This fuel pressure regulator keeps fuel pressure at a specified level but it also stores fuel pressure from the last time you had the engine on and releases this pressure at the next start up until your fuel pump has a chance to come up to full pressure.

zzrider · June 2005

I have a 99 Intrigue. Today was 90 outside but when I pressed the A/C button, the small light on the button flashed 3 times and went out. The A/C refused to come ON. The display showed correctly the outside temp. How do I diagnose the problem? :sick:

zzrider · June 2005

I had EXACTLY this problem. Solution: the water should drain out via the short, rubber hose coming out of the bottom of the firewall, engine compartment. It has a SMALL output hole, to keep debris out but it also gets clogged by tree stuff falling in next to the windshield wipers. Cut off the END of this little hose so that the drain hole is as big as the hose itself. It will drain now.

lesandjat · June 2005

My wife has a 99 Intrigue, here recently the coolant light comes on when the gauge gets almost to the 1/2 mark. I flushed the radiator and this hasn't helped. In reading this forum, we have had the the same problem as alot of Olds Intrigue owners. How ever the car has NOT over heated yet. Actually the temp gauge has not quite made it to the 3/4 mark..It comes close but doesn't (or hasn't yet) actually reached it. I bought a new thermostat but I haven't replaced it yet. I came here for help in how to do it,but reading all these forums makes me kinda wonder if replacing the thermostat is really going to help. Should it be the first thing I do anyway? Also, since this problem, the driver side A/C is blowing hot air, the passenger side still blows cold.I have made sure the a/c control buttons are all the way to the coldest setting,but it still blows hot. What could be causing that?

NEED HELP!!

intrigued · June 2005

I have just taken possession of a 2000 GL Intrigue
I like the car but it has started to shut down after about 2 mins, even when parked,
starts straight away again and will only repeat when switched off for a while.
Im going to time it and see if it is always the same.
Will check fuel and oxy sensor in exhaust first before delving deeper
Where can I get a workshop manual and an owners manual?
What are the gaps for the spark plugs?
Thanks for a great forum, Im still sifting through all the messages, good advice and interesting to see what goes out on this model and why

fuzz2moe · June 2005

I have a 99 Intrigue with a 3.5. I was curious how fast this car really is as it seems to want to get up and go. I was easing into the pedal, not flooring it up to 110 mph when it acted like it died, yet was still running, but wouldn't let me accelerate again until at 90 mph. I was at 5200 rpm when at 110 mph. Is there some kind of top end limiter that keeps it from going any faster?

evandro · June 2005

Yep, it's the speed limiter. It cuts fuel at 110MPH and then lets fuel again when the speed backs down.

It's a shame, because it can cruise at 100MPH at just 3500RPM. It could reach 140 or 150MPH easily.

cob · June 2005

Mine cuts out at 108, you can cruise at 105 without it kicking in. Anyone now how to reprogram computer to eliminate the limiter?

68cs · June 2005

I had the same problem with my 99 Intrigue but on the left side, fast blinking but turn signal was not flashing. I removed the bulb, looked at the base and noticed some unusual charring or burn marks on one of the contacts. I tried replacing it with a long life bulb but got the same behavior after a couple of weeks. If the bulb doesn't make solid contact with the socket, there will be an arc. I ended up getting a new socket assembly from the dealer and that fixed it.

316 · June 2005

Thanks! You gotta be a magician to reach it but I got it.
John

jscesq · June 2005

Hi. I have a 2K GX with 92K miles and I lost 4th gear a few weeks back. I had the vehicle and DTC P0730 (gear ratio improper) was stored. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what was the fix? From my limited research, it seems that this condition is caused by a plugged orifice on the shift solenoid(s) or something worse. Would it be possible to get away with the cheaper fix (unplug blocked orifices and/or replace shift solendoid) or am I better off getting a rebuilt tranny at $2,600? TIA.

racer__x_9 · June 2005

Could be a sign of low fluid, have you checked for leaks?
Why go and spend 2,600 before you get the DTC diagnoised?

Good Luck.

jscesq · June 2005

Fluid level is fine and no leaks. I've prior to losing 4th gear, I experiended the harsh 1-2 shift that others have complained about. There's also a post on the Impala board listing three TSBs about this DTC and each of them talk about plugged orifices and/or bad solenoids or valves, so it looks like I'm looking at a rebuilt tranny. My bigger concern is what else will go wrong after I do the tranny given the miles I have (92K).

dtownfb · July 2005

I have the same thing happening on my Intrigue. I tried changing the bulb but that did not work. I remembered your mesage so I checked the socket and noticed that it had some burn marks near the bottom of the socket. It looks like i need to change the socket itself.

how much did the dealer charge you for the socket?

dtownfb · July 2005

I went to a Chevy dealerships and bought the socket (part # - 12456483) - $37.52. What a ripoff!! I guess it is a matter of supply and demand. Not much demand for an out of production vehicle. You can get this part on www.gmpartsdirect.com for half price but they charge almost $10 for shipping. I would have saved about $10 overall but it was nice getting the part right away. And it worked!!!

If anyone is having trouble with the turn signals, check the inside of the socket. Mine was burned at the bottom of the socket and didn't allow the bulb to have full contact with the wires. The socket is very easy to change.

blue_2000 · July 2005

Where is the fuel pressure regulator located? Is it in the tank w/ the pump? My 2000 GL 3.5 has been starting very hard lately, but runs fine once it is started.

notquiteright · July 2005

When I first got my 2000 GT I noticed that the outside air temp was incorrectly displayed, 62 isn't anything like 97! So I got a new outside temp sensor. I assumed the reason my AC was going out. or.. the display was NOT working at all, was this sensor (after all the reading I had done) the AC worked, as well as the correct outside temp, for about 2 weeks. Then it started doing what ,, or part of what it had done in the first place. The WHOLE display blinks then goes off. When it goes off I have NO air, No fan. No nothing. Might turn back on when I start it the next time or might not. So I take it to Midas, he sends me away saying he cannot fix it, I need to see a dealer. Something about the whole display thing needing replaced or the computer part inside (somewhere) No communication from the AC display when he tries to code it. Also, cruise control doesn't work. He thinks they are connected.. the display is 589 bucks.. Have NO idea how much the computer part inside somewhere might be. Anyone have any ideas. . clues.. have this issue?????

bayview6 · July 2005

Bought new 3.5L GLS in '99. Only problem under warranty was both rear windows quit working after 5K miles. Once fixed, I now operate the back windows every time I drive the car. External temperature sensor is screwy but hasn't interfered with the A/C operation. Plan on replacing it once I figure out where it is located. Now have 77K miles. Recently had occasional transmission shudder on launch but a bottle of Lubegard solved that problem. (Definitely recommend it). Last week the car started stalling on coming to a stop. Took it to the Dealer and had the crank sensor replaced for $295. The Intrigue is back to regular self now.

This is a great forum for Intrigue owners.

bayview6 · July 2005

The first thing I would do is disconnect the battery (negative post first) and let it sit over-night. The reasoning being that the unit might have some sort of electrical re-set programming. Search the internet for similar problems in GM cars and I think you will find your answer.

bayview6 · July 2005

Make sure the A/C is always turned on even if you don't need it. The A/C turns on the cooler fans in front of the radiator.

Sounds like you flushed the radiator/engine block yourself? You might want to have the dealer do a power flush because the Intrigue has an aluminum engine and that means transfer of aluminum by the hot water inside the block (creates scales) which interferes with heat dissipation. If you look closely at old coolant (five years old stuff) you will see some aluminum color. I had a power flush at 5 years and plan on doing it again in 2010.

bayview6 · July 2005

Had the same problem. Burned out about 4 bulbs until I went down to the local savage place and bought a socket and bulb for $2. A quick and easy fix. :shades:

bayview6 · July 2005

Before you do anything get a transmission power flush. A lot of oil change places do it. Or change the tranny filter and add a bottle of Lubegard. Super lubricant that frees up stuck solenoids.

monty12 · July 2005

I wish I knew what the problem with the atc display is ,mine does the exact same thing,blinks goes dead and may or may not come back on.I bought one from the junkyard for 175.00 and it does the same thing so I am out the money.From what I read on the internet there is a way to access the codes from the dash unit but I cannot find what the sequence is for the intrigue.anyone please help us,thanks

dlwright · July 2005

Intrigued,
With my 99 GL 3.5L, I have essentially the same symptoms you describe. Plus, ours sometimes dies when accelerating from a stop, also.
I'm afraid I don't have an answer yet, but I certainly will share it if/when I do. For what it's worth, I previously have replaced the sensors that one might suspect, but this time around there are no diagnostic codes set. I have replaced the fuel filter, and it made no difference.

Regarding manuals, I just found this one by Chilton:
http://www.themotorbookstore.com/regal1.html

However, I vaguely remember reading something awhile back about it not covering much on the Intrigue -- especially the 3.5L. Don't really know, though. Probably more useful (although much pricier) is the real deal from Helm: www.helminc.com

A couple years ago I had an online subscription to AllDataDIY, but I found it to be of limited value and let it lapse.

Good luck!
DW

notquiteright · July 2005

Hi, Mine was in the shop this morning.. HOPEFULLY my warranty will cover the parts and labor. They cannot find the part or get one delivered till Monday/tues. I will let you know what they did and what part(s) then.

bayview6 · July 2005

It's on the passenger side, just in front of radiator behind an air shield. I disconnected it and cleaned it with a wet paper towel, and it works great now! Probably the years of road grime causes the sensor to give incorrect readings. Will report if the sensor has any more problems in the near future.

mick1 · July 2005

I have 99GLS with 139,000 mi. At 72,000 mi car was using a quart of oil every 1200 mi. Top engine cleaner brought it up to a quart every 2800 mi but it has steadily decreased. At 120,000 repeated the top engine cleaner and it really didn't help. It uses a quart every 800-1000mi. Dealer is attributing this to engine wear. I have never had a puff of smoke out of the tail pipe. The car has needed a lot of work after 110,000mi but it rides great and keeping it is a labor of love.

bayview6 · July 2005

A quart every 800 to 1000 miles? Heck, that's nothing. I once had a '61 mercury Comet station wagon that used a quart every 100 miles. I would buy a case of oil and toss it in the back and stop every 100 miles and put in another quart. Top speed of the wagon was about 50 mph.

Th good thing with the Intrigue is that the high voltage to each spark plug will burn off all that blow-by.

bayview6 · July 2005

Just wondering, Mick, if you have added any oil supplements? Try Slick 50. I recently add 1/2 bottle to my '95 Dodge Ram pick-up and it increased oil pressure at idle from 35 pounds to 45 pounds. The teflon gets into those microscopic pores in the metal surfaces and creates a smoother surface.

notquiteright · July 2005

Ok here is the damage. it was part number 10442504 Control. 580bucks. plus the labor. I would guess that your cruise control doesn't work either. (mine didn't) Now does, the control they changed controled that too, and if anything else I am not aware of it. Does come with 12k or 12 month warr. Btw, did try the unplug the batter for over night thing, didn't work

Hope I've helped Linda

Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions

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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems &amp; Solutions

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Oldsmobile Intrigue: Problems & Solutions