Was a 1 bottled water job. No more dripping on exhaust either! Waited till it cooled outside a bit ~ 85 to do the mod. 1st check, idling 5mins after 15 min drive, my 2 thermometers, both stayed at 55-56 degrees, thermocouples at vents. Will check again when it gets in the 90's. Thanks again. Ger.
On 1 thermometer which is inserted into the vent to the left of the radio, I have seen temps from 66-70 degrees before the mod, but the outside temp was >90 degrees also.Cant really correlate that to anything since I didn't collect inside/outside temp data beforehand. My calibrated temp meter with thermocouple also reads within 2 degrees F of that. A/C temps while 'driving' always only got to ~ 50-55F. My wifes 91 honda pumps out 46 degrees at idle!!, and her low side- system is already insulated from the factory. I can collect inside/outside temp now and post readings. Maybe someone else could collect the Before-Mod readings. Stay cool ! Ger - Sr. Electronics Test Engineer.
Ger, I see you sign as a Sr. Electronics Test Engineer. I happen to work at one of the worlds premere semiconductor manufacturing sites. We have 100s of Test Engineers at this plant. As I recall livnlrn also works at the same plant. (although I have never met him)
I help write the sofware that collects the data from the testers at ALL of our manufacturing plants worldwide that the Test Engineers use. (Please ref my profile)
Now I see why you like to take measurements too 8-)
bpeebles...Thanks for your advise on the pulling problem and shock absorbers. Living on Long Island, I have to try to find 20 miles of road that I dont have to use my brakes. Also I broke my shoulder about 3 weeks ago, so i'll have to wait to get some strength back before I wrestle with those shock absorber bolts. I'm not overly concerned with the pulling problem because sometimes It actually pulls slightly to the left. Maybe its the wind or crown of the road. On a side note...I hear a slight ping on my 4.7 when I get on the throttle. Not to the floor but somewhere about 3/4 throttle deflection. I seem to remember some posts about this a while ago. was there a remedy to this? John
(jhorl) This is not a serious problem. An engine tuned for economy is right on the edge of pinging all of them time. This is the point of getting the most from the fuel. Running slightly lean, at an advanced ignition timing.
You may find this is happening on HOT days with a HOT engine. Using fuel of a low octane will tend to pre-ignite. YOu might want to try using a hi-test fuel for one tankful. Ill bet the problem will be gone.
You may even want to try a fuel-injector cleaner in the gas tank. Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber can "glow" and cause the fuel to ignite a bit too soon too.
As I said... This is not a big problem if it only happening under load.
Thanks to bpeeples and his a/c mod. photo i have re-done my 00/4.7/5 spd....it is significantly colder...but i have no statistical data..sorry no thermometer ! i could not find the sticky insulation so i used fiberglass strips,wrapped in tin foil,held together by duct tape and wire.the self adherring pipe insulation was a breeze. we expect another 90 days hotter than hell so the test is at hand. once again thanks, stephen
Just preliminary.. was 93 outside..and inside temps got down to 42 F WHILE DRIVING out of the vent to the left of the radio.. !!!! This "typically" was around 50 minimum rarely 48-49 from constant monitoring before the mod.....this is a definite inprovement..Couldnt believe it..
Note: This was after I had tie-wrapped the adhesive foil I had wrapped on the 'can' near the firewall. The adhesive wrap around the bottom of the cylinder and underneath was hanging off after 1-2 days. #1757 -slr9589 used the duct tape.. I went with the tie wraps. I also tie wrapped the pipe insulation there and at the compressor.. Just preference.
I adjust my temp control knob ~ > 9 -9:30 oclock now.for normal use at that outside temp and, just put it on full to see any temp difference from the mod...
Would love to test this on vacation on fri,,,in ft myers,fla, but went with the airline tickets and rental car instead. The quad will rest for a week as I will too! Going to make up for the lack of beer-per jobs done, fish, and enjoy!! Ger
Ger, have a great vacation. Judy and I have just returned from that are in the beginning of July. We flew Spirit out of Atlantic City direct into Ft.Meyers. We spent our time in Punta Gorda (26 miles North) and we are having a new home built there. We will spend the warm weather on LBI and "snowbird" to FL for the winter. Have fun.
the other day I was sitting at a light and was waiting to turn left. I noticed that my left flasher did not blink,though the right one did.i also had the headlights on low beam.i gave it no thought till later when I noted that the left signal only worked when the headlights were off. But when it worked the radio and odometer lights also flashed ! turn on the head lights and it all stopped. it turns out that I had placed a male trailer hitch electrical connector into my one on the truck to keep moisture out. what I failed to do was tape the loose wires on the male end.they had managed to touch each other and apparently caused a short or some abberent connection which caused my flasher not to work right. i fixed the wires and all is back to normal. just thought i'd pass it on . stephen
Steve, I did the very same thing on my 1995 Dakota and was having a night of electrical misadventure while driving home from Baltimore in a bad rainstorm. I couldn't figure it out until I saw a spark in the wiring while in my dark garage. And presto, it was fixed. Another problem experienced with towing our Jeep using a harness that ran from the Jeep's trailer plug forward to plug in the Dakota. Everything worked okay until you used the turn signals on the towing vehicle. Then, all of the rear lights blinked in unison. In order to correct it, I had to install a plug that could disconnect the center (upper) brake light. This light was tied into the Jeep's front signal wire and caused the malfunction. Thank Heaven for an on-line wiring diagram. I just hate weird stuff.
Well.. finallty have some time off work.. so my QC gets some TLC... I want to do the brakes and bpeebles A/C mod. The mod is a trip to my favorite place - Home Depot. But the brakes are what I need help with. Raybestos ceramic pads I have but I am looking into rotors.. where can I find a good deal on a quality set??? Around here only OEM replacement available. I missed the rotor group buy so any input as to what brand.. where etc.. I need to buy/order soon as my days off start... Tuesday thru Sunday.. then back to 70 hrs a week.. hmm working on the beer to labor ratio...
Another group buy has been started for the Powerslot rotors. To order the rotors contact Leon from www.truckperformance.com at 1-800-719-8100 ext 226. The cost with S&H is about $185. Thanks to everyone here for the valuable information. Mark
I plan on changing the rear axle fluid this weekend (goin with synthetic) and wondered about the capacity, didn't find it in my owners manual but was told "a little over three qts".
I bought 4 qts. of RED LINE 75W-90 with the friction modifier.
Can anybody with a shop manual confirm the capacity?
I would hate to have the axle cover off and discover the 4 qts. I bought ain't going to do it.
Also any opinions on using a gasket when re-installing the cover or just using a premium gasket sealer.
The capacity of the 9.25 diff on your dakota is 4.9 pints. you will have plenty of fluid. The manual said to fill 1/4 inch below the fill plug, but concensus in this board and the dml said fill it to the bottom of the plug.
Just use the black permatex, and you will be fine. there are other options out there if you don't want to wait the 12 - 24 hours to fully cure, but someone else will have to fill you in on those details.
When I did the job I bought a tube of Chrystler ATV sealant. It was red and specially formulated for axles and the harsh axle lubricants. There was very little set up time. It was a little pricey at about 12 dollars as I remember, but the tube was big enough for front and back. Hope this helps. John
bpeebles...I put the 75w90NS in the rear but thats been it. I'm interested in doing the front and transfer case as well. Was the front axle hard to get to? Also the transfer case? John
(jhorl) Given that I have but a dirt driveway to work on (no garage) I opted to not take the chance to get sand into any of my Daks gearboxes. I guess I COULD have done the 5SP and xfer case myself.
I bought all of the REDLINE for $7.25/qt locally and took it all to my favorite mechanic with specific instructions. (This is a better price for REDLINE than I could find anywhere on the web)
He mentiond that the front axle was "a tight spot". I also suspect that for the 5SP and xfer case and front axle, putting the lube IN was the hard part.
Draining the 5SP and xfer case is as easy as pulling the drain plug and giving it time to drain.
I have looked under my Dak and saw that the cover on the front diff was about 2 inches from a frame-member. Since the front axle is solidly bolted to the engine, this clearance never changes. (IFS on the 4X4 starting in 2000)
My 2000 4.7 4x4 auto. has started knocking briefley at start up after setting for at least 3-4 hours. Sounds like the top end has no oil for about 8 to 10 seconds. Have 63,00 enjoyable miles.
Actually I take that back...I originally bought the 75W90NS but returned it for the 75W90. The NS does not have the additive in it for LSD. (Even though I dont have LSD, I figured it cant hurt.) I guess I'll try to do the front and transfer case with the redline and get the new type 4 fluid for the auto tranny. Is there any problem with not doing a full flush out on the tranny fluid. John
If you are refering to an automatic tranny, when you pull the pan to drain the old fluid, do not forget to replace the various filters within.
Do not forget that the torque-converter tends to hold some fluid that does not get drained.
There are 'special instrictions' in the shop manual about installing the filter properly. I have seen at least one case on the forums that even a xmission shop did not install it properly. (this is on the 45RFE on the 4.7L)
QUESTION: What are you using in your xfer case? I used the D4ATF that RED LINE recommended.
bpeebles...Actually I was going to ask you that very question next. D4ATF...Thanks...Also did you use the same fluid for the front axle as the rear. John
Whoever does the trans filter swap, USE CAUTION!! I had a reputable mechanic do mine as I wanted them to do the complete flush too. I replaced the fluid with Amsoil Univ. ATF. Two days after I got the truck back, it was acting up. Of course it was now a Saturday and they weren't open. Waited till Monday and they repositioned it and all is WELL! Bill
Well I had my fun and QC QT in the garage this past weekend. Pulled wheels off.. thorough cleaning, especially on the inside - brake dust caked on. Calipers removed and old pads off.. rotor had the ruts alright, especially near the hub. but a surprise was still waiting. Tried to coax the rotor off the hub.. no deal. penetrating oil - no deal. Out comes the rubber mallet.. several well placed opposing persuasive hits and it finally gives it up and breaks loose. Bpeebles, you WERENT kidding.. rusted to the hub!!!! Now the surprise.. ruts deeper on the back. towards the hub. Corrosion and caked on dust. I didnt even think twice... new rotors. thoroughly cleaned the hub, and surrounding area.. installed new rotors, Raybestos ceramic pads.. definitely much better. Also while it was in the "shop" I removed the clamps on the front antisway bars and lithium greased toughly and reassembled. Took her for a test drive and the brakes were so much better and QUIET! NO chirping or the warped rotor shimmy. No popping in the front during sharp turns either. Had alot of fun doing the work and very pleased with the results. Definitely a 6-pk job (the road test was the next day)
(jhorl) YES! Since I have LSD rear end. I selected the REDLINE 75W90. (which contains the LSD additive allready) This was used in BOTH the front and rear Axle.
(ahasher) Excellent news. You will find that the brakes will get a bit "stronger" as the pads bed into and begin to make full contact with the rotors.
I have been running that combonation for 2 months now and still notice the difference.
In hindsight, If you were to read any of the "tests" of the Dakota, they all mention the "weak" brakes.... this problem is GONE once the powerslot/Raybestos are installed.
I had even WORSE luck than you describe. I had to 'grind' the 1/8" of rust from the inside circomfrence of the old rotors to get them to respond to my baby sledge coaxing. Once removed, the 'hub' itself was virtually rust-free.
It took my wifes Honda 8 Vermont winters before the rotors were rusted badly.... and they STILL were not as bad as the Dakota after 3 years.
Ok, don't remind me I no longer have the Dakota. Recall I bought a Vitara to escape the numerous repair issues I had with the dakota.
Seems the "gremlins" have followed me.
A week ago, the vitara was chugging along fine when I stopped to get gas. Given the fact it does not have gauges but "idiot" lights, I never knew the battery wasn't charging but I did notice the turn signals were a tad slow, this I attributed to the cooling fan and the interior fan running at high amp draws (remember this sentence, its significant)
Well I go to start, and it barely turns over but thanks to FI, it caught and ran fine. SO, I figured better get the hell home before something happens.
I never made it. WHile sitting at a stoplight, I started to lose all power to all systems. First the tach went, then the gauges for gas and cooling. Then the engine began coughing and sputtering (now go back and read the paragraph above for a refresher) In the end, she died. Total flatline here.
Well, I check it out and I already knew the alternator wasn't putting out (I know a vehicle can be kept "running" off alternator current ASSUMING it puts out and, you don't shut it off!)
Why wasn't the alternator putting out anything? WEll the main harness to the battery and starter relay had totally melted, I mean to the point there was NO insulation on the wire from the alternator to the starter relay and for about six inches on the splice to the batter terminal itself.
Diagnosis........current overload....melted wires. WHy did the system overload? Good question!
Results.....I get an Esteem (which does little for MY esteem) to drive while Country motors tries to figure out why the cannot get an alternator from Suzuki. Good news is they have the harness.
Ahhhhh.......hey ahasher......I had a beer tonight to celebrate one week without a new vehicle.....I guess I am pretty familiar with that.
Moral.....well, I guess the Asian cars have their issues too.
hey all, put a new tank of brand name regular in the truck today and all appears to be well.no surging,no skips,no anxiety . so maybe bad gas was the diagnosis after all. all for now, ps;my condolences to mopar67 on his vitari meltdown.
your luck sounds like mine. although my dakota experience is the worst luck ive had, (EVER) everything i buy or do is a big drama. all my friends buy their stuff and life is great, not me.
Well mopar67, I feel for you; Remember my relay and subsequent fuse box BBQ last year? Good luck in getting it resolved properly. New rotors and ceramic pads in my QC took me out of the "brake club". No impact wrench came within a mile of my lugs. Good luck..
1. No, they ordered both the harness and the alternator. The harness came in next day, the alternator the day after but, alas, it was the wrong one. Just got the correct one late yesterday. 2. Got it back today. To relate to #1 above, the new harness is MUCH stiffer either due to more insulation or, hopefully, heavier gauge wire. 3. The alterntor is slightly different in appearance than the OEM one which had a Mitsubishi tag on it. This one has a Suzuki tag on it but I cannot decipher the numbers to determine the AMP rating. 4. no conclusion after talking to two techs on why this one went south like it did. Perhaps a fluke like ahashers underhood BBQ????
But its back. Bottom line, if it can happen, then it will. OR did someone else say that?
OK, again I have a 4.7L 2001 2wd Dak currently at about 24,600 miles. So, it's actually pretty hot out here in the NW this summer, hitting the upper 90's some days. Well, during the course of a normal driving day, with the air conditioning on, I start to get a vile smell (perhaps like antifreeze?) coming thru the air vents. It is soooo bad. I have to shut off the air and after about 5-6 minutes, I cut it back on and all is fine for a while. Then it happens again. It started a few weeks ago, just as mabey once a day, and I hoped it would stop, but now it's like 4 or 5 times a day. The smell is horrible! I'm willing to bet this is a common thing. Ideas? It can't be healthy to breath whatever the heck it is!
Not common, my 2000 has no smell like that. Sometimes when mine is first turned on it has a slight musty/moldy odor but that goes away after a few moments. I believe the 2001 has a button (not on the 2000)to turn the compressor on and off. Is the smell there when the compressor is off? There is a small radiator like device (heater core) inside the air ducts. Since it uses engine coolant to provide heat if you had a small leak in this it would give you the antifreeze odor. Have you checked the antifreeze level under the hood? Time to have the dealer look at your problem, it is not common. Rick
I have a 02 4wd QC with a 4.7L engine and an automatic transmission. I've noticed over the past month or so that when I take off in the morning, I occasionally hear a clunking sound towards the back-end of the truck around 23 mph (it's not the door locks locking because that happens at 15 mph). It sounds as if it's coming from the rear differential and feels as if the tranny just shifted (but not very smoothly). As I mentioned it only happens in the morning (occasionally) and only the first time I reach that speed limit. The rest of the times I stop and start, I don't experience the sound. Nor do I experience the problem when I leave work in the afternoon. Any ideas? I have not used the 4wd yet as there hasn't been a need but presume I will in the next 6 months or so as I live in Wisconsin. Since I still have less than 4,000 miles on the truck, I can wait and get it covered under warranty if the problem progresses but would like to know now if this is common and/or if others are experiencing this? Any info you can share is greatly appreciated. Thanks...
I doubt that the smell is antifreeze (sweet smell). A more likely culprit could be mice in the duct. I have seen them work into the duct work, get trapped and die. The only option for that is have the dash taken apart. Another possibility is mold. None of this is acceptable to continue, but you need to have a mechanic you trust to find what is causing it and correct the problem
I'm with you on the AC smell! I've noticed this same thing. Smells like antifreeze or washer fluid or something to that effect. I haven't noticed it lately, but I've definitely smelled it before.
I have a 2000 QC with 4.7 and 5sp. About 4-6 weeks ago, I noticed a sluggish startup. It always happens unless I have had it running and stopped for 15-30 minutes or less. Had the battery, alternator, and starter checked and all seems fine. The only thing I did different was install a K&N filter. The truck runs fine, but I am afraid I will wear out the starter at the rate I'm going. Average turn-over time is 5 seconds. Anybody have any ideas before I take it in. I was going to put a regular filter back in and try it, but you have to remove the K&N gasket to do so. Any help would be appreciated.
Yeah, I had a similar problem with my tranny. I have a 2001 4.7 Auto. Mine got progressively worse over a few weeks to the point were when you shifted from Park or Neutral into any gear the whole truck would jolt violently, and would jolt also when you would brake coming to a stop. Anyway, took it to the dealer and the fix was to "re-flash the software" (says this on my reciept) for the computer controlling all that mess. Dealer says there was nothing mechanically wrong. Haven't had the problem since, and that was a couple months ago. Hope that helps. Good luck.
Kyle, I experienced such a problem with my 1995 Dakota with the 5.2 (318) and it was a loss of fuel pressure after shutdown. In my particular case, it was via an injector that lost the integrity of the seal. I have heard other cases where it was attributed to pressure bleeding down within the fuel pump and/or injector pump. I originally thought that it was due to a check valve on the pressurized side of the fuel line such as is used on diesel engines to maintain a head of pressure to assure quick start ups, but found that it was not employed in these fuel systems. After a bit of cranking, the engine starts and runs normally. There are methods to test fuel pressure and that may be what you have to do. Good luck.
I guess a trip to the dealership is in order. Thanks for the help. I guess it was just a coincidence me changing the air filter at about the same time. I will post an update after the repairs. Kyle
Just performed the ac insulation mods described by bpeebles earlier in this forum. I wish that I had done it about 8 weeks ago! I can now get the cab so cold it'll make your teeth hurt. Thanks for the advice. Regards, Steve
Just wondering the best place to get a good deal on the front brake upgrade that seems to be so common for these Dakota's. Left a couple of different messages with Leon at truckperformance.com about the group buys, but have heard nothing back and keep getting voicemail when I call. Also was wondering what the part numbers are on the rotors and the pads for ease in shopping. Thanks for all the info
mrjake .. I put the Ceramic new rotor package on my DAK QC weekend before last (as several of us here have done) and since you asked here is a tip on the pads: pep-Boys for Raybestos and have them look it up for the DURANGO with your config. No reference for DAK for ceramic pads. Seems Raybestos has the pad numbers for traditional and QC traditional for the dak but no Qutet Stop (QS) ceramic. Durango has all part numbers loaded and the QS ceramic ends up being the same for both apps. Confusing yes but until Raybestos deploys full part numbers.. it works. I too had trouble getting powerslot brand rotors so went with a highly recommended make a friend told me of, bought it locally for about the same price. If you need the part numbers for the pads. I will get them tonight.. good luck
ahasher - if it isn't any trouble it would be great to get the part numbers from you. That eliminates any possible parts store counter dude from looking up and ordering the wrong pads. Thanks
Well, I have an answer for the ac smell. Dealer called back and checked the coolant and there were no leaks. HOWEVER, my truck is still in the shop with the tranny pulled out, as it seems the smell was caused by tranny fluid leaking out of the rear main seal, burning up and coming up thru the vents. Horray for me. They also mentioned something about a pan gasket(?) leaking that needed to be replaced too.
I also mentioned to them when I took the truck in that I was starting to hear a popping sound when I made a right hand turn and they said they fixed that problem which was something to do with hub bearings(?) that they replaced.
I'm not a mechanical genius and I got the phone call during a nap, so that's why I put the (?) by the 2 items.
They don't have a few parts available so I won't see the truck till Friday evening at the earliest they tell me, so I'll give a full final update after I go pick up the truck and talk to them in person and get the work order.
Ford_bii, if you are smelling the same odor on occasion, you might want to look at the tranny, but I hope in your case it's something else.
Hello everyone. Long time since I last posted but still hanging around. Recently surpassed 15,000 miles and had some questions for the experts out there. I have 2002 QC, 4.7L, Manual Trans., 2WD, Trailer Tow, LSD, 3.55, HDSG,T&H. No problems thus far. Have been averaging 18-19 mpg city driving. Even brakes doing fine (probably helps that I live in hill-less, mountain less Fla.). Have been changing the oil (Mobil 1 5W30) and filter myself, put a drop in K&N air filter in today, and have just ordered Redline 75W90 w/the added friction modifier for upcoming LSD service. No Towing Yet. Was looking for advice on any other recommended maintenance at this point? Have been to two dealers here is what they have recommended:
Add fuel and emissions system cleaner Add oil system conditioner Service throttle body assembly Fuel injector flush Air filter (done) Brake inspection Rear brake service
Other than a brake inspection which I have no problem with, is any of that other stuff really neccessary?
I have an article on maintenance that I printed out from About.com where the writer recomends replacing air filter, fuel filter and PCV valve and filter every 15,000 miles. Obviously I will not have to replace my K&N air filter every 15K but what about fuel filter and PCV valve and filter?
I realise this is a long post and a lot to ask but I L-O-V-E love this truck. I would like to keep it running well.
PS I notice Red Line offers a Manual Transmission Fluid. Was wondering if any of the manual owners out there have or ever intend to change out the man. trans. fluid?
Comments
Being a 'techie' engineering type of person. I always like to see REAL measurements that prove (or disprove) the value of any changes.
Being able to MEASURE the 'before' and 'after' is the basis of all engineering disciplines.
My wifes 91 honda pumps out 46 degrees at idle!!, and her low side- system is already insulated from the factory. I can collect inside/outside temp now and post readings.
Maybe someone else could collect the Before-Mod readings.
Stay cool ! Ger - Sr. Electronics Test Engineer.
I see you sign as a Sr. Electronics Test Engineer. I happen to work at one of the worlds premere semiconductor manufacturing sites. We have 100s of Test Engineers at this plant. As I recall livnlrn also works at the same plant. (although I have never met him)
I help write the sofware that collects the data from the testers at ALL of our manufacturing plants worldwide that the Test Engineers use. (Please ref my profile)
Now I see why you like to take measurements too 8-)
On a side note...I hear a slight ping on my 4.7 when I get on the throttle. Not to the floor but somewhere about 3/4 throttle deflection. I seem to remember some posts about this a while ago. was there a remedy to this?
John
You may find this is happening on HOT days with a HOT engine. Using fuel of a low octane will tend to pre-ignite. YOu might want to try using a hi-test fuel for one tankful. Ill bet the problem will be gone.
You may even want to try a fuel-injector cleaner in the gas tank. Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber can "glow" and cause the fuel to ignite a bit too soon too.
As I said... This is not a big problem if it only happening under load.
i could not find the sticky insulation so i used fiberglass strips,wrapped in tin foil,held together by duct tape and wire.the self adherring pipe insulation was a breeze.
we expect another 90 days hotter than hell so the test is at hand.
once again thanks,
stephen
Note: This was after I had tie-wrapped the adhesive foil I had wrapped on the 'can' near the firewall. The adhesive wrap around the bottom of the cylinder and underneath was hanging off after 1-2 days. #1757 -slr9589 used the duct tape.. I went with the tie wraps. I also tie wrapped the pipe insulation there and at the compressor.. Just preference.
I adjust my temp control knob ~ > 9 -9:30 oclock now.for normal use at that outside temp and, just put it on full to see any temp difference from the mod...
Would love to test this on vacation on fri,,,in ft myers,fla, but went with the airline tickets and rental car instead. The quad will rest for a week as I will too! Going to make up for the lack of beer-per jobs done, fish, and enjoy!! Ger
Bookitty
it turns out that I had placed a male trailer hitch electrical connector into my one on the truck to keep moisture out. what I failed to do was tape the loose wires on the male end.they had managed to touch each other and apparently caused a short or some abberent connection which caused my flasher not to work right. i fixed the wires and all is back to normal.
just thought i'd pass it on .
stephen
Bookitty
hmm working on the beer to labor ratio...
Thanks to everyone here for the valuable information.
Mark
I plan on changing the rear axle fluid this weekend (goin with synthetic) and wondered about the capacity, didn't find it in my owners manual but was told "a little over three qts".
I bought 4 qts. of RED LINE 75W-90 with the friction modifier.
Can anybody with a shop manual confirm the capacity?
I would hate to have the axle cover off and discover the 4 qts. I bought ain't going to do it.
Also any opinions on using a gasket when re-installing the cover or just using a premium gasket sealer.
Thanks in Advance.
Cowtownkid
The capacity of the 9.25 diff on your dakota is 4.9 pints. you will have plenty of fluid. The manual said to fill 1/4 inch below the fill plug, but concensus in this board and the dml said fill it to the bottom of the plug.
Just use the black permatex, and you will be fine. there are other options out there if you don't want to wait the 12 - 24 hours to fully cure, but someone else will have to fill you in on those details.
enjoy.
Blue
John
John
I guess I COULD have done the 5SP and xfer case myself.
I bought all of the REDLINE for $7.25/qt locally and took it all to my favorite mechanic with specific instructions. (This is a better price for REDLINE than I could find anywhere on the web)
He mentiond that the front axle was "a tight spot". I also suspect that for the 5SP and xfer case and front axle, putting the lube IN was the hard part.
Draining the 5SP and xfer case is as easy as pulling the drain plug and giving it time to drain.
I have looked under my Dak and saw that the cover on the front diff was about 2 inches from a frame-member. Since the front axle is solidly bolted to the engine, this clearance never changes. (IFS on the 4X4 starting in 2000)
John
Do not forget that the torque-converter tends to hold some fluid that does not get drained.
There are 'special instrictions' in the shop manual about installing the filter properly. I have seen at least one case on the forums that even a xmission shop did not install it properly.
(this is on the 45RFE on the 4.7L)
QUESTION: What are you using in your xfer case? I used the D4ATF that RED LINE recommended.
John
Bill
Now the surprise.. ruts deeper on the back. towards the hub. Corrosion and caked on dust. I didnt even think twice... new rotors. thoroughly cleaned the hub, and surrounding area.. installed new rotors, Raybestos ceramic pads.. definitely much better.
Also while it was in the "shop" I removed the clamps on the front antisway bars and lithium greased toughly and reassembled.
Took her for a test drive and the brakes were so much better and QUIET! NO chirping or the warped rotor shimmy. No popping in the front during sharp turns either.
Had alot of fun doing the work and very pleased with the results.
Definitely a 6-pk job (the road test was the next day)
Since I have LSD rear end. I selected the REDLINE 75W90. (which contains the LSD additive allready)
This was used in BOTH the front and rear Axle.
I have been running that combonation for 2 months now and still notice the difference.
In hindsight, If you were to read any of the "tests" of the Dakota, they all mention the "weak" brakes.... this problem is GONE once the powerslot/Raybestos are installed.
I had even WORSE luck than you describe. I had to 'grind' the 1/8" of rust from the inside circomfrence of the old rotors to get them to respond to my baby sledge coaxing. Once removed, the 'hub' itself was virtually rust-free.
It took my wifes Honda 8 Vermont winters before the rotors were rusted badly.... and they STILL were not as bad as the Dakota after 3 years.
Seems the "gremlins" have followed me.
A week ago, the vitara was chugging along fine when I stopped to get gas. Given the fact it does not have gauges but "idiot" lights, I never knew the battery wasn't charging but I did notice the turn signals were a tad slow, this I attributed to the cooling fan and the interior fan running at high amp draws (remember this sentence, its significant)
Well I go to start, and it barely turns over but thanks to FI, it caught and ran fine. SO, I figured better get the hell home before something happens.
I never made it. WHile sitting at a stoplight, I started to lose all power to all systems. First the tach went, then the gauges for gas and cooling. Then the engine began coughing and sputtering (now go back and read the paragraph above for a refresher) In the end, she died. Total flatline here.
Well, I check it out and I already knew the alternator wasn't putting out (I know a vehicle can be kept "running" off alternator current ASSUMING it puts out and, you don't shut it off!)
Why wasn't the alternator putting out anything? WEll the main harness to the battery and starter relay had totally melted, I mean to the point there was NO insulation on the wire from the alternator to the starter relay and for about six inches on the splice to the batter terminal itself.
Diagnosis........current overload....melted wires.
WHy did the system overload? Good question!
Results.....I get an Esteem (which does little for MY esteem) to drive while Country motors tries to figure out why the cannot get an alternator from Suzuki. Good news is they have the harness.
Ahhhhh.......hey ahasher......I had a beer tonight to celebrate one week without a new vehicle.....I guess I am pretty familiar with that.
Moral.....well, I guess the Asian cars have their issues too.
put a new tank of brand name regular in the truck today and all appears to be well.no surging,no skips,no anxiety .
so maybe bad gas was the diagnosis after all.
all for now,
ps;my condolences to mopar67 on his vitari meltdown.
welcome to my world LOL....
good luck,
robert
Perhaps this is not the first time they needed one!! (Remember that they only stock hi-usage items at the dealership.)
2. Got it back today. To relate to #1 above, the new harness is MUCH stiffer either due to more insulation or, hopefully, heavier gauge wire.
3. The alterntor is slightly different in appearance than the OEM one which had a Mitsubishi tag on it. This one has a Suzuki tag on it but I cannot decipher the numbers to determine the AMP rating.
4. no conclusion after talking to two techs on why this one went south like it did. Perhaps a fluke like ahashers underhood BBQ????
But its back. Bottom line, if it can happen, then it will. OR did someone else say that?
I believe the 2001 has a button (not on the 2000)to turn the compressor on and off. Is the smell there when the compressor is off? There is a small radiator like device (heater core) inside the air ducts. Since it uses engine coolant to provide heat if you had a small leak in this it would give you the antifreeze odor. Have you checked the antifreeze level under the hood? Time to have the dealer look at your problem, it is not common. Rick
I have a 2001 QC. I'll try to figure it out.
Bookitty
I too had trouble getting powerslot brand rotors so went with a highly recommended make a friend told me of, bought it locally for about the same price.
If you need the part numbers for the pads. I will get them tonight.. good luck
I also mentioned to them when I took the truck in that I was starting to hear a popping sound when I made a right hand turn and they said they fixed that problem which was something to do with hub bearings(?) that they replaced.
I'm not a mechanical genius and I got the phone call during a nap, so that's why I put the (?) by the 2 items.
They don't have a few parts available so I won't see the truck till Friday evening at the earliest they tell me, so I'll give a full final update after I go pick up the truck and talk to them in person and get the work order.
Ford_bii, if you are smelling the same odor on occasion, you might want to look at the tranny, but I hope in your case it's something else.
Thank goodness she's under warranty.
I'll keep ya'll posted.
Add fuel and emissions system cleaner
Add oil system conditioner
Service throttle body assembly
Fuel injector flush
Air filter (done)
Brake inspection
Rear brake service
Other than a brake inspection which I have no problem with, is any of that other stuff really neccessary?
I have an article on maintenance that I printed out from About.com where the writer recomends replacing air filter, fuel filter and PCV valve and filter every 15,000 miles. Obviously I will not have to replace my K&N air filter every 15K but what about fuel filter and PCV valve and filter?
I realise this is a long post and a lot to ask but I L-O-V-E love this truck. I would like to keep it running well.
PS I notice Red Line offers a Manual Transmission Fluid. Was wondering if any of the manual owners out there have or ever intend to change out the man. trans. fluid?