you said previously: "Chikoo, I checked for the jolt yesterday and never got much of a bump. I noticed that there is more of a jolt when the radiator fan is already running and then the compressor and A/C fan kick in."
This is the exact situation that I explained to Mazda dealer last year - the first time when I took it for the jolt problem. sure we think alike -huh
Malt, I am sorry if I am troubling you but you are one of those few on this board who has been able to talk with some engg. data with him...not speculations.
thanks for your input....
BTW, what is the idle RPM of the DX/LX? (just a thought)..
I drove my 00 ES last summer in desert temps and experienced "the jolt" only one time at a stop light. The traffic conditions are very light, if I had more time in traffic or at stop lights might have had more incidents. Jerry, what is the official Mazda stance on the infamous but occasional clunking in our manual transmissions?
I checked out the 2001 ES. It has the same A/C and the same Idle speed setting too!
check out the jolt for us Vocus...so we know what is going on.
BTW, remind you that the jolt is felt only when the radiator fan is also working...means after the car has reached normal working temp+ some more driving.
Way back in 2000, quite a few of us noticed a soft clunking sound when shifting (manual) usually between 1-2 and 2-3. Maybe decreases with time? One person had a differential replaced. Every one else seems to have been told that it's normal. I wondered if your sources had received many inquiries about it and what it is. thanks.
I took my 2k pro to the dealer to have brakes checked. They were making a slight rubbing sound when applied. They 'deglazed' them. Also mentioned the clunk and had the tech ride with me. He said it's normal and he couldn't find anything about it in their "M" news bulletins. He also mentioned that the 626 was even worse, but still considered normal.
I haven't had that for a while. I have found that if you try to shift too early, before the clutch is entirely disengaged, you get that clunk. I have found that I wasn't depressing the clutch pedal all the way to the floor on shifts. Also, the synchronizers don't seem to like mid-rpm shifts. Either rev it higher or shift a bit slower. I generally push the clutch in, wait a split second, pull the selector out of gear, pause for a split second, and then put the selector into the next gear. Those little pauses make a huge difference. It allows the tranny gears to spin down a little bit, easing the engagement and eliminating the "clunk". I'm sure this type of shifting will also aid in the life of the transmission.
I have a Seabreeze Green 2001 ES with Premium package. I decided to add the cargo net. I really like it. It was dealer installed. It holds a gallon of milk, groceries or anything else that you would like to remain in an upright position. It extends across the front of the trunk so if you want to put something really large in the trunk you just unhook the net. Neat. I also had a moonroof wind deflector installed and I love the way it looks on my car. It''s black. I am hoping that the weather will someday turn to a real Spring so I can get a chance to USE the moonroof. Linda
Earlier this month there was a little bit of a discussion on the use of Rain-X. My experience several years ago was that I did not care for it on the front windshield.
However, I did use it on the rear and side glass and headlights. It worked well keeping those surfaces free of water, but the front glass always seemed to bother me with Rain-X on it. It seemed almost like it was waxed.
OEM(NGK). Mazda engineers picked a particular plug to run with the way the engine is designed. When you go and make a decision otherwise, you may be negatively affecting the way it runs. I always hear people say, "My car runs better with the new Super-Double-Platinum-Hyper-Magnetic-Tri-Electrode-Supressor-Core-Gold-Contact-Thermo-Nuclear-Spark-Plug." However, they fail to note that when you replace the plugs the car will run better anyway.
While you can't buy the true OEM plug in the states, you can get NGK plugs from most auto parts stores along with NGK wires(good quality). The factory plugs are NGK but they are made in Japan vs. 95% of the NGK plugs(including the dealer replacement part) sold in the US are made in the US.
What does the amount of power output have to do with choosing an idle speed? Are you saying to compensate for the 1.6L's lower output, its idle speed should be higher? 700-750 rpm is very common.
I know the owner's manual recommends changing the spark plugs at the 30,000 mile mark, and I would guess the wires would be replaced at the same time. However, the manual says nothing about the wires.
at idle speeds the engine should generate enough power to support all the loads such as A/C, headlights, foglights, heater, defroster, brake lights, radiator fan, etc.
how can 3 different engines, producing different HP/torque at different RPMs, support all these at the same RPM?
is actually below 700 rpm, if I'm reading the tach correctly (I'm assuming each 'gap' on the tach stands for 200rpm). After it warms up nicely, at stop lights it actually sits at around 600-ish (2 gaps below 1000). Not sure if this applies to everyone else's car, since it's already been said that idling speed could be tuned.
That is the reason for the idle up-speed. When the A/C is turned on, the PCM(computer) increases the idle via the IAC(Idle Air Control) valve. See the document that I sent you.
My tachometer in my 2001 has a larger mark for 500 rpm, then 5 smaller marking all the way up to 1000 rpm. If the tach in the 2000 is the same way as my 2001 is, then your car is idling at 800 rpm, which is normal. Mine idles at like 1000-1500 rpm or so until warm, then goes down to 800 rpm. No matter if I have the AC on or not, it's 800 rpm.
I bet the idle speed is chosen as low as possible while still keeping a smooth idle. There's plenty at 750 rpm to "support" the loads from AC, etc. However, without the idle-up, the idle speed would drop to a level of a rough idle when you turn on the AC. The idle-up brings it back to the normal level or slightly above.
the PCM changes the idle speed based upon the load on the engine...it does not foresee a load like the A/C coming on. Thus it jerks when a/c is turned on and also the radiator is running. The engine does not stall because the rpm have been increased - but just a wee bit late - late enough to stall the engine momentarily.
The idle-up is a feedback system, alteast on the 99 ES.
The way it should work is this: 1 second before the a/c compressor engagement signal is sent out, the idle-up signal has to be sent out. I am sure the 99 ES is not doing this - courtesy of flawed programming in the intel chip of the PCM.
I don't care what Mazda says or what it says under the hood. I am telling you what my tachometer says when the car is idling in Park. It says 800 rpm.
On another subject, I found on the internet that the dealership where I got my 2001 ES is selling my 1999 DX. For $3500 MORE than they gsve me for it! Ugh! Here's a link for pics and all.
If it makes you feel any better, that's a rediculously high price. Heck, they've been advertising leftover 2000 LX's for that price. They'll probably get a lot less, unless somebody is really out to lunch.
With this nice weather here in MD, finally getting a chance to enjoy the sunroof. My audi had it as well, and it was a must have on my new car. I especially like the glass, (old one was solid, fiberglass) because it really lets the light in and brightens things up.
I know that's too high a price, because I tried to sell the car privately for $9500 for several months. I just couldn't make it for some reason.
I have been using my sunroof from the day I got the car. I use it in the vent position all the time though, because I drive 32 miles a day commuting for work. Yesterday, it was like 65 degrees here so I had the sunroof all the way open and the windows down with the CD player going. What a nice feeling! I also ate lunch in the car today with the sunroof and windows open.
I am going to get my windows tinted now that it's stating to get warm outside. It gets downright hot in the car even at these outside temps. Cannot imagine what it's gonna be like in the dead of summer at 100 degrees. I want the sunroof panel tinted too, because I don't like the amount of sunlight it lets in during the day. My last Protege had an aftermarket sunroof, and the glass was tinted. I kinda liked it that way. Only thing I miss about that car was the automatic closing sunroof when I turned the ignition off. Oh well, there a LOT more to like about my 2001 ES than that!
Steve, we still are gonna have to get together one weekend and hang out and compare ESs.
I just placed my order for vanity plates. If you see a 2000 mica black Protégé LX with Ohio plates that say Y2K PRO, that's me. At least it will be so in about two weeks.
I also took some dental floss and removed the dealer placard. It came right off. I still have to get the remaining tape off later this PM. J&J waxed cinnamon floss works real well.
I bought some black plate covers and removed the dealer covers as well. 'Gonna be looking good.
When I removed the dealer placard I also noticed the MAZDA name badge was looser than I'd expect. I'd guess I could pull it off with my fingers, I'll have to look into that...
Well this past weekend we were driving around in Little Zoom Zoom and my wife was remarking how cool it would have been to have a sun/moonroof.. I just looked at her and pointed out we could of had the Silver ES (1st color choice) but she balked since it had the sunroof.. Go figure..
I saw my second 2001 Protege.. a silver LX.. kinda dirty.. shame..
And washed little zoom zoom yesterday.. actually got another compliment on how good it looks...
You could have a sunroof put into that green one of yours for under $700 at your local Ziebart, with a lifetime warranty. Sunroofs sure are fun. It's getting warm here in Maryland, and I am enjoying mine to the max!
Ziebart is a place that does auto glass and sunroof installation. Guess you don't have around though. A comparable place would work though. Call around for estimates or take the car back to your dealer for them to recommend someone to do it.
do yu feel a whirrr-thunk (where the left-footrest is) from the transmission when the car comes to a stop?
it's there since last 2 months and I did not want to go to the dealer without any specifics.
when I am going around 35 mph - usual speed around town and then coast to a stop, there is a slight whirr(sound of spinning) and a thunk from the underneath left footrest.
I have not heard it if I brake hard...but everytime when I semi-coast(lightly braking) to a stop..usually at the traffic lights and stop signs and there is a slight tug forward associated with the thunk.
so what I deciphered was that the tranny is shifting into first gear when I am coming to a stop. but why this whirr-thunk to get into the first gear?
looks like the tranny is shifting into the first gear with some "torque".
If I catch anyone putting a ding or nick in my car they'll need Physical Therapy.
Today I was standing in the cafeteria at work, looking out the window admiring my PRO' from the vantage point of two stories up about 100 yards away. Some lady got into the car next to mine. When she opened her door I imagined I heard a "thunk." There was NO WAY I could possibly have heard anything. It was "just my imagination, running away with me..."
Wow! I feel much better now, I've finally found the time to wash my car, clean the interior, Rain-X the windshield, and put some Techron Fuel System Cleaner in the tank! Over the past few weeks I've felt like I've been 'abusing' the Protege since I haven't been able to wash it - it's either raining, I'm at work, or I'm busy with other errands!
I suspect my A/C compressor is not working. When I turn on the A/C switch, the air coming out of the vents don't feel chilled, just feel like regular ventilation. My question is, when I start up the A/C after turning on the fan, while idling and without radio on, should I be able to hear the compressor start running? cuz I can't hear anything except the fan and the engine.
must be bad karma, keep having problems with my Pro this past few weeks...
When I press the A/C switch, I hear the compressor go on, then go off after about 30 seconds. It keeps doing this over and over like it's supposed to. Take your Protege to the dealer!
I just found another substitute for ArmorAll. Its called 3M scotchgaurd dashboard protectant. It leaves no shine at all, completely retains the stock look. It also protects against UV rays and it doesn't even smell funny. I used it on all the plastic and vinyl in my car yesterday. (don't want that black interior to start fading)
I spent the day practicing Karate on my LX. Wax on, wax off. It looks nicer, but I found a small nick in the door protector and what looks like a key scratch. I'm over it now. But it was depressing.
I spend 6 hours yesterday cleaning the pro. Finally we had some good weather in NY. Used Zymol to wax an McGuires protectant on the inside. I threw the LeBra on and tinted the tires green. It looks awesome!
Comments
"Chikoo, I checked for the jolt yesterday and never got much of a bump. I noticed that there is more of a jolt when the radiator fan is already running and then the compressor and A/C fan kick in."
This is the exact situation that I explained to Mazda dealer last year - the first time when I took it for the jolt problem. sure we think alike -huh
Malt, I am sorry if I am troubling you but you are one of those few on this board who has been able to talk with some engg. data with him...not speculations.
thanks for your input....
BTW, what is the idle RPM of the DX/LX?
(just a thought)..
Here are the idle-up specs:
Load condition...........Idle-up speed (rpm)*1
E/L ON*2...................650--750
P/S operating*3............700--800
A/C ON*4...................700--800
*1 : Excludes temporary idle speed drop just after the electrical loads (E/L) are turned on.
*2 : Headlight is on, Fan switch is above 1st, Cooling fan is operating, Rear window defroster is on.
*3 : Steering wheel is fully turned.
*4 : A/C switch and fan switch are on.
I checked out the 2001 ES. It has the same A/C and the same Idle speed setting too!
check out the jolt for us Vocus...so we know what is going on.
BTW, remind you that the jolt is felt only when the radiator fan is also working...means after the car has reached normal working temp+ some more driving.
Linda
However, I did use it on the rear and side glass and headlights. It worked well keeping those surfaces free of water, but the front glass always seemed to bother me with Rain-X on it. It seemed almost like it was waxed.
Also where is the best place to get them?
And complementary wires... I've heard it's best to match plugs with wires.
While you can't buy the true OEM plug in the states, you can get NGK plugs from most auto parts stores along with NGK wires(good quality). The factory plugs are NGK but they are made in Japan vs. 95% of the NGK plugs(including the dealer replacement part) sold in the US are made in the US.
99/00/01 dx : 700 rpm 1.6L
99/00/01 lx : 700 rpm 1.6L
99/00/01 es : 700 rpm 1.8L / 2.0L
do the mazda engineers think all the 3 engines produce the same power output at 700 rpm?
why this standardization of idle speeds?
or somebody never proof reads the service manual?
at idle speeds the engine should generate enough power to support all the loads such as A/C, headlights, foglights, heater, defroster, brake lights, radiator fan, etc.
how can 3 different engines, producing different HP/torque at different RPMs, support all these at the same RPM?
the PCM changes the idle speed based upon the load on the engine...it does not foresee a load like the A/C coming on. Thus it jerks when a/c is turned on and also the radiator is running. The engine does not stall because the rpm have been increased - but just a wee bit late - late enough to stall the engine momentarily.
The idle-up is a feedback system, alteast on the 99 ES.
The way it should work is this:
1 second before the a/c compressor engagement signal is sent out, the idle-up signal has to be sent out.
I am sure the 99 ES is not doing this - courtesy of flawed programming in the intel chip of the PCM.
Mazda says "700 RPM" when gear is in P position.
and that is what my car idles at - 700 RPM
On another subject, I found on the internet that the dealership where I got my 2001 ES is selling my 1999 DX. For $3500 MORE than they gsve me for it!
http://www.sandsauto.com/cgi-bin/ss/prshowca.cfm?CARID=14184
With this nice weather here in MD, finally getting a chance to enjoy the sunroof. My audi had it as well, and it was a must have on my new car. I especially like the glass, (old one was solid, fiberglass) because it really lets the light in and brightens things up.
I have been using my sunroof from the day I got the car. I use it in the vent position all the time though, because I drive 32 miles a day commuting for work. Yesterday, it was like 65 degrees here so I had the sunroof all the way open and the windows down with the CD player going. What a nice feeling!
I am going to get my windows tinted now that it's stating to get warm outside. It gets downright hot in the car even at these outside temps. Cannot imagine what it's gonna be like in the dead of summer at 100 degrees. I want the sunroof panel tinted too, because I don't like the amount of sunlight it lets in during the day. My last Protege had an aftermarket sunroof, and the glass was tinted. I kinda liked it that way. Only thing I miss about that car was the automatic closing sunroof when I turned the ignition off. Oh well, there a LOT more to like about my 2001 ES than that!
Steve, we still are gonna have to get together one weekend and hang out and compare ESs.
If you see a 2000 mica black Protégé LX
with Ohio plates that say Y2K PRO, that's me.
At least it will be so in about two weeks.
I also took some dental floss and removed
the dealer placard. It came right off. I
still have to get the remaining tape off
later this PM. J&J waxed cinnamon floss
works real well.
I bought some black plate covers and
removed the dealer covers as well.
'Gonna be looking good.
When I removed the dealer placard I
also noticed the MAZDA name badge was
looser than I'd expect. I'd guess I
could pull it off with my fingers,
I'll have to look into that...
I saw my second 2001 Protege.. a silver LX.. kinda dirty.. shame..
And washed little zoom zoom yesterday.. actually got another compliment on how good it looks...
it's there since last 2 months and I did not want to go to the dealer without any specifics.
when I am going around 35 mph - usual speed around town and then coast to a stop, there is a slight whirr(sound of spinning) and a thunk from the underneath left footrest.
I have not heard it if I brake hard...but everytime when I semi-coast(lightly braking) to a stop..usually at the traffic lights and stop signs and there is a slight tug forward associated with the thunk.
so what I deciphered was that the tranny is shifting into first gear when I am coming to a stop. but why this whirr-thunk to get into the first gear?
looks like the tranny is shifting into the first gear with some "torque".
need your views before going to the dealer.
Meadeball
Meade
In my old fogie voice..
What's that verna?? You know I can't zoom anymore since I threw out my hip!
any suggestions?
Today I was standing in the cafeteria at work, looking out the window admiring my PRO' from the vantage point of two stories up about 100 yards away. Some lady got into the car next to mine. When she opened her door I imagined I heard a "thunk." There was NO WAY I could possibly have heard anything. It was "just my imagination, running away with me..."
Anyway, when I left for the day I did look...
must be bad karma, keep having problems with my Pro this past few weeks...
specifications say: 700+/- 50 rpm in P.
I did 750 rpm in 'D'.
(in P mode, it goes to 800 rpm).
No more BIG JOLTS from the A/C. I can only hear it engage with a big "clack".
Thanks Maltb for the document.
and thanks to you too Vocus ... for giving me the new Idle settings for the ES.
Used Zymol to wax an McGuires protectant on the inside. I threw the LeBra on and tinted the tires green. It looks awesome!