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Toyota Sequoia Rear Hatch Door Problems

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Comments

  • seagarnolaseagarnola Posts: 3

    So you mean that you took the back panel off and still can get the door open? So you haven't installed the aftermarket part yet?

    Back panel off, new latch handle installed, cable attached. All reassembled as prescribed, won't open.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    So the lock itself must be broken internally? Can you clearly see the lock mechanism itself? Does the cable move the release lever?
  • seagarnolaseagarnola Posts: 3

    So the lock itself must be broken internally? Can you clearly see the lock mechanism itself? Does the cable move the release lever?

    !@#$ing Toyota! This is absurd. I've gotten to the locking mechanism/actuator and cannot manually disengage the lock to get the gate open. I blasted it with WD40 and I'm hoping I can get it free but I'm not hopeful. Other forums and YouTube have me taking a sawzall to the strike U thing to get the hatch open and replacing the entire thing up to my new handle. How is it possible that the thing breaks and the only solution is to hack the thing to pieces just to get the gate open? I cannot even get to the spare if I had to so that makes the thing undriveable just because the rear hatch won't open. Toyota won't even acknowledge the issue.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,990
    edited May 2017
    You already saw the video but for those who haven't here it is.



    Yeah, you have to cut the striker if the latch has seized and won't release. I've seen a lot of people waste cans of penetrating oil in the often futile hope that it will magically release seized fasteners r other components. This is far from the only vehicle that makes opening a seized door or hatch latch difficult. Needing to cut the striker is easy compared to some of the problems we often have to overcome.
  • I have 2002 Toyota Sequoia. The rear hatch broke again and this is third time. Spent much money to repair and I am getting really frustrated and upset on poor quality craftsmanship on Toyota.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Not sure why this keeps happening on these cars, but it's something of an epidemic. The part must be badly engineered (obviously, huh?) .
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 4,990
    edited July 2017
    It's got a number of things working against it. It's positioned in the bottom of the door where any moisture that gets into the door has to run down through to exit the door. Another one and really the main one is the fact that very few people actually ever bother to lubricate the latch assembly like they are supposed to. Without lubrication over time it starts to corrode and then eventually seizes which is sad because a spritz of WD 40 or similar aerosol lubricant (white lithium grease etc.) every three to four months would have kept it working fine for the life of the car.
  • ARGVOLARGVOL NCPosts: 2
    Looking for help to get the bottom electrical connector disconnected on a 05 Toyota Sequoia rear latch. My handle broke, which I have replaced, but I cannot get the door open to replace the latch because the latch will not disengage. I have followed all the suggestions and am trying to remove the plastic cover on the rear latch (I have removed the 2 screws and the top electrical connector), but cannot get the bottom connector removed. Please help before I loose my mind! I have tried using a small screw driver to release the connector lock, but no success. Maybe I don't understand how the lock works on the connector?
  • ARGVOLARGVOL NCPosts: 2
    Got my sequoia rear door open.... Finagled a can of WD-40 spray into latch area from the inside and doused it. Waited a while and then tried pulling the wire from the handle. Notice that it pulled much easier than before. Pushed on the door with my feet, but did not budge. I hit the door hard with my feet hoping to jar the lock. I tried pulling the wire from the handle again and "thank the Lord", I heard the latch move; I gave the door a slight push and it opened up! Also coated the bottom electrical connector on the latch assembly with CRC. Once I am able to pull the latch assembly out of the rear, I hopefully will be able to remove the connector. Things are looking better... thanks for all the information that was posted on this site. It was invaluable and it has saved me lots of $$$!
  • BajabearBajabear So. CAPosts: 1

    We are the original owners of a 2001 Sequoia with over 200,000 miles. We have the "rare" (according to TSB EL007-01) high beam indicator inoperative, the drive indicator inoperative, excessive brake wear, many plastic pieces falling off, and the continuing rear window and door handle problems. We replaced the handle with the metal version last time, but when we put everything back together we developed an electrical problem somewhere in the system. The following items quit working: running lights, door open indicator, passenger windows from the driver's door panel, rear window and door lock from the remote control or from the driver's controls. If you use the key to unlock the driver's door, the horn alarm will sound until you put the key in the ignition. Intermittently, the alarm will sometimes go off unlocking with the remote control. Individual windows all work fine at their individual door controls. The rear lock and window work with fine with the key in the back. My local mechanic found the following diagnostic codes: B1211, B1212, B1214, B1242, B1271, and B1287.

    When we disconnect the rear MPX ECU, the electrical problems go away from the rest of the car, but the rear door is completely dead, even with the key. We did a visual inspection of the wires and don't see any frays. I hate to replace the costly rear ECU or body ECU unless I can prove they are the cause. Any ideas out there?

    Eileenbeck is onto the worst part of this issue with Sequoia rear hatch mechanisms. The handle (or mechanical portion) is only PART of the problem. I'm a retired mechanic of many years. I bought an 04 Sequoia knowing about the issue...and ASSUMING that it was a broken handle. WRONG!! There are TWO parts to the problem...the mechanical handle/latch and the ELECTRICAL LOCKING mechanism. I went inside and removed all of the plastic trim and inner metal access panels. I had to break the plastic cover off of the actuator/lower latch and manually UNLOCK it! After opening the hatch, I REPLACED the entire actuator mechanism, the electrical LOCK mechanism attatched to it and put in a new handle. It worked fine...so I re-installed the trim panels and took the car out and parked it. When I left it I LOCKED the car doors. BIG MISTAKE!! SOMETHING in the electronic controls is NOT allowing the lock to UNLOCK not with the key or with the remote fob. The hatch is now stuck closed AGAIN...with every mechanical part replaced with new ones. I SUSPECT that the "ECU" or "BODY COMPUTER" located in the rear hatch MAY be the cause of this problem?? Does anyone know of a way to test it?.....It's really about the only thing left in the system??? THANKS!!
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