Does fuel pressure regulator have a check valve?

I have a 2000 Intrigue 3.5 with the FPR starting and stalling issues ! Takes 2 or 3 starts then runs down road perfectly. Ive read online that the test for a faulty FPR is to pull the vacumn line and see if it is wet with gas. I suppose a faulty diaphram would show this. Mine is dry the several times Ive checked it. I'm thinking if the regulator has a integral check valve to keep fulel from flowing back to fuel tank. This could be the problem. What do you think. The FPR tests good but sure seems to be faulty. thanks for ideas ! Dan
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This only will tell you that the diaphragm is ripped and fuel is leaking pass and will be sucked into the intake manifold and cause a rich condition.
A check value is at the outlet of the pump in the tank, however an improperly seating diaphragm will cause fuel to be bleed back into the tank through the return line and hence a drop in pressure. Another cause for pressure drop is through a leaky injector and you may be able to smell gas on the dipstick as the thin fuel will bleed by the rings into the crankcase.
Apart from connecting a fuel pressure gauge and pinching off feed and return lines without exceeding 75 PSI, noting results and logically determining the cause, swapping in a new regulator on an educated guess work and probability may be your option.
After sitting a bit, try cycling the key to on (not start) several times before you try a start. This will rebuild the pressure at the fuel rail and may prevent multiple crankings, as well as confirming that you do have a fuel pressure loss problem.
cheers
Let's hope all stays well with your car.
Did you order yours online ? Wheres a good source ? Any other information you can provide on the replacement I am sure grateful for ! Dan
My ignition switch was made by Standard. I bought it from Federated Auto parts (cost just over $100). You can do online (www.rockauto.com or www.gmpartsdirect.com), but I needed the switch that day since I was leaving town the next morning. There are cheaper ones at Auto Zone and Advance Auto parts. The guy at Federated said that he could order me a cheaper ones but they were flimsier. Who knows? The price I paid at Federated was cheaper then at Advance Auto Parts.
The worst part about the entire process was getting the switch from behind the dashboard into the open (the last steps) and putting the switch back into the dash. You can't see well and it is tight quarters. It may have more to do with my big hands. Pay attention to the directions. The person who provided these directions did a nice job on commentary. I would also use this opportunity to replace any instrument cluster bulbs that may have blown. When you remove the instrument cluster, push it in (slightly) and pull the bottom out first. And don't forget the steering wheel tilts.
It will take you about an hour and a half to do it. I had to do it twice (this is part of the reason I had to buy at an auto part store).
Good luck and I hope this works. I think the fact that you did have a diagnostic done and nothing was found leads you to the ignition switch. The only other thing it could be is a bad battery connection but that would show up in other areas.
It depends on how bad the ignition switch is. When mine went bad, whenever I turned the key, the lights (radio, "check engine", etc.) would light like normal but nothing would happen. this could happen 2 or 3 times, sometimes 12 to 15 times before it finally started. I also had a couple of incidents when the car stalled while driving. Also had a time when the "security" light flashed on and the car stalled.