Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Climate Control

brainh

I have something caught inside the heater fan, I think a may be a leaf. I had the same problem before when the truck was under warranty so the dealer removed it. Now I would like to get some info on how to remove the fan and get the object out.

Thx,
-Brian

whl

When my a/c is turned on the compressor will only stay engaged for 4-8 seconds before disengaging even if inside truck temperature is over 100 degrees. It will stay disengaged for 6-8 seconds then engage again. It cools OK the 4-8 seconds compressor is engaged & will eventually cool down the cab. But the compressor is constantly kicking in or out every 6-8 seconds. The expansion valve & temperature sensor have been replaced. After trying to fix my truck 3 times dealership says I don't have a problem. Even though it is only cooling 4-8 seconds at a time regardless of inside cab temperature, it is getting cold & is doing its job. Can my Low side pressure of 15-17 lbs cause this problem? I compared my pressure against another truck just like mine, his Low side pressure would vary between 30-38 lbs. The dealership will not tell me what the Low side pressure is suppose to be. I found info on a 2007 GMC Canyon that says Low side pressure @ 85 degrees should be 30-39 is the 2007 & 2008 Canyon have the same a/c system?

captained

BAD LOW SIDE. IF THE DEALER CANT SEE THAT GET A NEW DEALER.. LOW SIDE SOULD BE OVER 30 COMPRESSOR MAY BE LOW ON GAS. THAT IT THE NORMAL CAUSE OF LOW READINGS. IF NOT YOU HAVE A BAD COMPRESSOR.

acking

There could be a few things wrong. Suction reeds in the compressor could be sticking or cracked, the receiver dryer could be plugged or evaporator coil could be restricted. The pressures will vary with temperature, what is the ambient temperature of the air outside? High side pressures? Vent temperature? and Low side pressures? All these factors must be considered when trying to diagnose this problem, the dealer is full of crap because you sound like a problem exists. Whether the system is short cycling, kicking out on high head pressure or consists of a low charge, something is wrong. Consult a pressure temperature chart for 134a to verify what your head pressures should be.

andyjag

I have had similar problems , not only on a Cadillac I owned ,but also on my 2007 Colorado.
Low side pressure reads25-30 PSI ,High side reads 350 PSI but spikes higher when low side drops.
On my cadillac the compressor was internally self destructing & filling the system with tiny flakes of Chrome & other metallic particles which blocked the expansion valve.
as for the Colorado , since it is still under waranty I will see what the dealer I bought it from can do about it.
( I've been a mechanic 25 years so it should be fun to see what answers they offer )

buuba116

My 2005 Canyon: With the air on, compressor running, everything cooling, when I press the recirculate switch, the light comes on but there is no change in fan speed and whatever air redirect is supposed to take place doesn't. That is---press the recirculate switch and nothing happens. Could this be a relay?

steve819

I have islolated a problem with a nonfunctioning blower motor to the switch, I think. I took the motor out and jumped 12 volts to it and it worked fine so I assumed it was the resistor. Wrong. New resistor did nothing. I got a wiring diagram and it showed that on high speed the switch put the orange wire on the blower motor plug straight to ground. so I place the motor and the resistor on the floor board and stuck a wire in the back on the blower motor plug and grounded it. Bingo. The motor ran. Then I grounded each tap on the back of the resistor to ground and it changed speeds. Am I missing something or does the switch sound like the culprit? The wiring diagram does show a ground in the right side of the engine compartment but it is common to other circuits which are working. If you folks are in agreement that the switch is bad please tell me how to get to it. How do you get that panel off that holds the radio and swicth panel.

steve819

capfsu

Hearing a loud click when turning knob from cold to hot and back. A/C works great, but no heat. There is tension until the click, then after, there is no tension. Does anyone have any knowledge of the inner workings of the climate control area for a 2004 GMC Canyon? is this an easy fix for myself or do I need to get an entire new control system? Thanks for any input.

crewser1

My '05 began experiencing issues days out of warranty. It started with the AC Blower but has developed into a mess.
AC Blower was intermittent on several speeds but High always worked. Local dealer owed me a favor for a service issue on wife's G6. I believe they pulled th dash to fix it and did me no favors in doing so. Motor worked properly for a while aftrwards, but ac began freezing up despite proper freon levels, suspect an airflow problem. Found the existance of an "GM Engineering bulletin" on the blower but never found the details. Now, have experienced similar intermittent electrical within the truck to include: Cruise Control, Stereo, Wipers...suspect a larger ground or harness issue. Very disappointed with the engineers at GM, quality and dependability in electronics should be far greater then this. Despite loving this truck, I am nearing the decision to let Car Max send it to la-la land. If anyone else has been through this and has a solution, please advise.

kman21

ok - i went thru this same issue last summer. The problem is a poorly designed electrical connector between the blower motor resistor board and the wiring harness.
All of these things can be assessed without taking the dashboard apart.
Find the blower motor resistor and remove it to make sure that the resistor is not fried, if it is you can get one a NAPA for $20. If it isn't then just look at the female and male ends of the connection and check to see if it has been burned up. If so replace harness, if not all you have to do to get the intermediate fan positions to work is to take a small screwdriver and slightly bend the "male" connectors so that they better contact inside of the female end of this connection. Very easy and cheap

if you need more info let me know

thanks
kman

breakerplaya_0

hi i was wondering if you would be able to tell me where the resistor is located?

kman21

it is located under the dash on the passenger side.
look for the blower motor and it is part of that assembly area
there are two bolts holding the resister block into the assembly
look for the connector ( white in color )
good luck --- i hope this helps

dkroubetz

I have a 04 colorado, the ac compressor cycles on and off. I took it to the dealer, they said it had a bad schrader value, and low on refrigerant. $260 later it still acted the same. Took it back, they said they got a bulletin from GM. saying there is a sensor behind the dash that is bad. $841 later it still acts the same, they said it is to cold out now so it is going to cycle on and off.

Happster

Sure you're all set by now, but others may need the answer and I have it. The plastic clip that holds the cable head to the switch housing is weak and poorly designed, causing it separate from the housing when pressure is applied. The more it happens, the easier it comes out, as the prongs wear. I fixed mine by taking the bezzle off, removing the switch housing and clicking the cable head back in. Then I wrapped a solid, 16 gauge wire around the two prongs that the cable head clips into so that they could no longer separate and let the cable head slip out. Been fine for 3 years now. It used to happen a few times per month. Another bullseye from the GMC engineering department.

coloradolemo1

hey, read your message iam having the same problem,i just bought a new resistor yesterday installed it and nothing happened no fuses blown,but the connection looks fried female end,so iam going to try your solution to see if it works,if not i may just get rid of the truck i have had all the problems with this truck that people have listed on this site and i mean all of them!. thanks for the info.

coloradolemo1

hi,went through the removal of my blower fan last year it seized up,its pretty simple except for one screw,there are 4 small 1/4 inch screws holding the blower on,if you look up under the dash on passengers side you will see the blower(extreme right side)look for the screws and remove them there is the above mentioned screw in the far right corner against the floorboard/firewall its hard to get to i pulled my carpet down it helps some,make sure to unplug the electrical connection and it will come right out you should be able to remove your leaf,i did not reinstall the hard to get to screw mine works fine! good luck.

jbdesign

I have had that harness replaced or spliced and taped more than you could imagine, I had no air as much as I ever had air that worked. Several times we could smell the wiring burning before it went to working only on high on my 04 colorado and they are just now recalling it within the next few months. My mechanic called and they said the replacement harness is out and you should qualify for a refund if you don't want to wait, fix it now. It is nice after all this time!

marinewolfohbc

Hey folks,

I'm having a problem similar to capfsu had. Had the clicking noise, but kept trying the knob. I guess I twisted it a bit too much and a piece of plastic on the back snapped. I had to replace the whole system, but now, after I hooked up the heating control cable, the knob on the new one will only turn so much. I get resistance at a certain point when going towards a warmer temperature and if I keep pushing, the retaining clip will pop out, meaning I have to pull the whole panel off again and reattach the clip. So now the wire will only go in so far and the temperature will only get so warm (not warm enough sometimes!).

Is there anything I can do to this wire to get it to push further in, like it should? I'm pretty sick of all these Colorado problems. Have this issue, the blower issue, and now the valves on the head are going bad and I'm past warranty...

Thanks for the help on the wire.