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Got a Quick Question for a Car Dealer?



  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,102
    could be the dealerships are related and the owner wants to try selling it in a different market.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • boomchekboomchek Vancouver, BC, CanadaPosts: 5,314
    Like others pointed out could be a few scenarios:

    -vehicle sold at auction and bought by dealer B


    -vehicle swapped or traded/sold to other dealer, as both dealerships may be owned by same auto group/owner.

    Both scenarios very common. Sometimes vehicles that might have no action in one geographical area may do very well in others hence the same asking price.

    Reason your offer was not accepted was maybe because it was too low or below cost what the dealer acquired the vehicle for. Although kbb and edmunds may be great pricing guides, the actual prices paid for vehicles may vary greatly due to other factors:

    -dealer paid more for trade in than they should have to get the deal done
    -dealer may have put money into the car for reconditioning, raising the cost to way over book values
    -dealer knew they can sell the car at auction for more/same than you offered but it's easier selling to another dealer due to decreased liability than selling to a end user.

    2007 BMW 328i Sports Pkg

  • Is it possible to get a military clause in a lease incase they send me oversease, so i can return the car early?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    "TERMINATION OF AUTOMOBILE LEASES DURING MILITARY SERVICE: The SCRA allows military members to terminate pre-service automobile leases if they are called up for military service of 180 days or longer. Members who sign automobile leases while on active-duty may be able to terminate an automobile lease if they are given orders for a permanent change of station outside the continental United States or to deploy with a military unit for a period of 180 days or longer."

    So it looks like it does not apply to actual purchase of a car. Also the dealership is not the financial institution that carries the lease, so the dealer might not know about the SCRA.

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  • I recently sold my vehicle to a dealer. I still owed on it, so the bank had the title. The dealer has paid the bank but has not paid me (until the they get the title). Meanwhile, they had sold my vehicle within days. I don't understand how they can hold my payment because they don't have the title, but can go ahead and sell the vehicle. This doesn't make sense to me - am I wrong?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,102
    it happens all the time. They don't have titles on hand for new vehicles they sell, so I'm not the least bit surprised they would do it for a used one.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    your finance institution has to sign off on the title to release the lien, so the dealer isn't about to pay you just yet; as for selling the vehicle, that's done on temp tags. Nonetheless, this should be moving along quickly so don't let them drag their feet. Sometimes papers fall behind desks, (not literally but you know what i mean). Goose 'em a little in a couple of days.

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  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,862
    They don't have titles on hand for new vehicles they sell

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but dealers never have titles for new cars. They have manufacturer certificates of origin which get converted into titles by the state. The state issues the title, not the manufacturer.

    In this case, I could see it happening. The title isn't needed until the vehicle is registered.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,102
    Well, I'm not sure of the details, but we agree they don't have them.

    I'd bet it happens pretty often on used cars. Could take a couple of weeks to get the title from the lending institution they paid off, and having the car sit there all that time is costing them money.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Edmunds and edmunds members , i really need your help , im new and i want to ship three cars as i'm moving from my home town. I have been in so much headache trying to get this done. I want a reliable carriers that won't scam me and ask for that much money like those shipping companies
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Well you pretty much get what you pay for, but you're right, there are a lot of dubious car shippers out there.

    What you need to do is figure out if your car is being brokered to drivers who don't actually work in the employ of the shipping company. That can lead to problems.

    Why don't you take a look at Hemmings Motor News ( and look at the towing companies in their classifieds section? Many of these transport companies move both classic and modern cars, and in Hemmings you can actually see in the ad how long they have been advertisers. In Hemmings, if you are a dud, you don't last long as an advertiser.

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  • Hi, I'm nearly settled on the car that I want (2013 Mazda 3 4-door).

    This isn't my first rodeo (not by a longshot!) but it's been a while since I shopped so I'm wondering:

    will I generally get the BEST PRICE from the dealer by agreeing to finance, or by paying cash?

    I'm in a decent position at the moment, so even if I take a loan I'll probably opt to pay it off real quick.

    But I'm thinking that the dealer might be more willing to negotiate a better price if it's going to be financed (as in: the Mazda dealer gets compensated for generating Mazda Finance transaction)

    ...or do they favor "cash" customers?

    Thanks in advance.

    p.s. I know that I'd be able to drive a better bargain buying one of the leftover 2012's, but the 2013's have some cool features that I feel are worth holding out for. :shades:
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,102
    They do get a little something for the financing, but its unlikely it would affect your price, as they aren't guaranteed during negotiations that you'll be qualified for financing or at what rate.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

  • Auto Dealer Monthly would like your insight for our Viewpoints segment in the December issue. You can keep it short, preferably 200 words or less. What marketing or advertising campaign was the most successful for you this year and how did you measure the success?
  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,379
    shouldn't matter. negotiate the price before you get to financing anyway.

    the only real difference should be if Mazda is offering a cash back or low APR financing option.

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • jprocjproc Posts: 135
    gbrozen is right.New car salesman gets paid for moving a unit plus a percent of any profit (if any) on deal.Finance guy gets paid on any markups on finance deals, extended warranties etc. Two seperate people with 2 seperate agendas
  • billy3554billy3554 Posts: 148
    Dealers look at the entire deal including selling price, financing, trade-in, etc. As we all know, the sales people really don't set the price. Price is set by the manager in '"the tower." While sales people may be concerned with the sale, the managers are cognizant of the whole deal.

    Many of the "experts" who publish car buying advise suggest dealers will often lower the selling price a bit if they think they will make additional money from the sale of products (financing, service contract, mop and glow, etc.) in "the box" (F&I office). What is clear is the selling price won't rise if the dealer views the buyer as someone who would buy additional "product" in "the box."

    Many of those "experts" also suggest a dealer really doesn't care about a cash buyer. The dealer gets its cash regardless.
  • jprocjproc Posts: 135
    I only worked in the car business for 5 years and 2 dealerships so my experience may be abnormal. But at the two dealerships I worked at the " manager in the tower" was the new car (or used car) sales manager and he didn't give one whit about anything but the price of the car.I actually thought the whole process was somewhat dysfunctional in that logic says someone should be looking at the whole deal.But in the places I was at that was the GM and he was only "in the tower" when the new car manager was out
  • Thanks, all, for your input! I really appreciate your responses.
  • Basically there is a person who needs a car. She has money for a down payment, but no job. She needs a vehicle so she can get to the future job, so we want to start there. Without a job, she can't get financing. I on the other hand get financed anywhere. We want to put both of our names on it, but the dealer we talked to won't even include her on the sale because of the job thing even though my name will be on it and I'm approved. Is this common? Is it possible for me to transfer over to her at some point when she has a job? What's the best way to make this work where she is in on it since we want the insurance to be in her name...
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    What state are you in? This may make a difference.

    They can't put her name on the financing, because it will be declined since they would have to take both of your incomes & credit scores into account, and they can't give equal responsibility for a loan when one party currently has no ability to pay that loan.

    In my state, however, the loan & title are separate issues. You can add a name on the title, meaning she would be part owner (of any equity, and any responsibility too should an accident occur) and could, therefore, get insurance coverage.


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  • houdini1houdini1 Kansas City areaPosts: 7,478
    I agree with Kirstie. The car can be titled in both names even though one is not on the loan.

    2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460

  • Thanks for the responses. We are in Nevada. I'm perfectly okay carrying the financial burden in my name exclusively, but the insurance and title need to have hers included.
  • igozoomzoomigozoomzoom Waleska, GeorgiaPosts: 801
    My Mom wants a new vehicle to replace her 2007 Ford Explorer EB 2WD. It is in excellent condition inside and out, never wrecked an has all maintenance records. But dealer offers for trade-in have been far less than any of the pricing guides (Edmunds, KBB, NADA). I'm considering not trading it in and trying to sell it privately.

    She has selected a new vehicle, a Hyundai Santa Fe Sport, and plans to pay Cash for it. I have explained to her and my step-dad that this does NOT improve their negotiating position.

    Walking into a dealership and saying I don't have a trade-in and paying cash is a lot like the customers who go to a grocery store and only buy the items on sale. Dealers are businesses, not charities and they need to make a fair profit. At the same time, I want my Mom to get the best deal possible on her new Hyundai!

    How should we handle these issues with the dealer?
    2015.5 Volvo S60 T6 Drive-E Platinum, 2012 Mazda CX-9 GT
  • robr2robr2 BostonPosts: 8,862
    The trade in really won't be an issue. It actually simplifies the transaction.

    If you go over to real world trade in values here on Edmunds and post the info on the Explorer, you'll get an idea on its value.

    As for paying cash, no need to mention that. Just negotiate the price of the vehicle and ignore/deflect the questions about "what monthly payment do you want" or "will you be financing."
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    I think you have to look at a "trade-in" as an activity of convenience that you are paying the dealer to perform for you. It's something like (not quite like) going into a pawn shop. You simply aren't going to get a good price, because the dealer, or pawn shop, is supplying you with what you want---ready cash, on the spot.

    Naturally dealers also try to low-ball trade-ins, since used car profits can be tasty for them----or, they may offer you a generous trade-in and then pack it on the new car sales price if they're confident they can do that.

    another factor is that the dealer may not really want what you have to trade-in--if he's going to wholesale it for a quick buck, he has to buy it right.

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  • stickguystickguy Posts: 25,379
    I responded in another thread, so no need to recreate that tome. But, forgot to say, excellent choice. When we were looking recently, that is what I wanted to get. But it was my wife's car, and she picked the Acura RDX instead.

    and that should tell you something, that I wanted the Hyundai over the Acura!

    2015 Hyundai Sonata 2.4i Limited Tech (mine), 2013 Acura RDX AWD (wife's) and 2015 Jetta Sport (daughter's)

  • houdini1houdini1 Kansas City areaPosts: 7,478
    If you have a Carmax nearby, get a quote from them. I have found that they usually offer quite a bit more than most car dealers. They will give you a written quote good for a week or two.

    2013 LX 570 2016 LS 460

  • I have an 07 Civic Hybrid with 89k miles on it. I haven't decided whether to sell private party or trade in. I have read it is better to sell to a Honda dealer as I will fetch a better price? Is this true? When buying I prefer to gather quotes from internet department at local dealers then negotiate with the best offers. When in the process should I tell them I have a trade in? Will my trade in help me get a better deal?
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 22,102
    edited November 2012
    In many cases, yes, the dealer of the same make of the car you are trading will usually pay more if its a car they want to keep on their lot.

    As for your trade, it really doesn't matter, in my opinion, when you bring it up. The common mantra seems to be to hide the trade till after you've struck a deal on the car you are buying. But that is pointless. Why spend all of that time negotiating on one part only to have it all flushed down the toilet when you find out they don't want to step up on your trade? You are just wasting their and your own time. Work the deal as a whole, as long as you can keep the numbers straight for yourself. Frankly, I think the math impaired are those who need to hide the trade.

    As long as you know ahead of time the difference between trade and new that you want to pay, it doesn't matter how they arrive at it. If they want to give you $1k more for your trade and charge you $1k more for the new vehicle, or vice versa, so be it. It doesn't affect the bottom line, and that's all that counts.

    '17 F150 Crew 2.7; '67 Coronet R/T; '14 Town&Country Limited; '09 LR2 HSE. 44-car history and counting!

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