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Chrysler Concorde Maintenance and Repair
FYI: Recently I encountered a battery drain on my 2002 Chrysler Concorde. Using a volt meter setup for amps connected in series with the ground terminal of the Battery cable. I discovered the drain amounted to slightly more than 2 amps. Utilizing the fuse removal method, I discovered that the removal of fuse 18 (Horn/Amplifier) located in the inside fuse box. This fuse box is behind a pull panel on the side of the dash and can only be accessed when the door is open. The 2 amp drain would go away. Remember when searching for a drain on later model cars you must allow enough time for the automobile to go into sleep mode. This may take a much as a minute. The total current drain on the 2002 Concorde after the sleep mode is reached is about .014 amps. Most information I found said that an automobile in the sleep mode should be less that .025 amps. I checked the horn circuit by unplugging the horn relay. This did not isolate the problem. After consulting an automobile forum, I was able to locate the amplifier (audio) on the passenger side kick plate behind the glove compartment. When I removed the connector to the audio amplifier the 2 amp drain disappeared.
When I consulted the Dealership I found that a new audio amplifier is around $300.00. Checking with local junk yard and eBay I was able to find them for around $100.00. At this time I needed my vehicle and didn’t want to do without a radio. So I removed the amplifier card from the case in order to determine which component may be causing the problem. Since the current drain was only about 2 amps it was not obvious which component had failed.
About the time my problem started I notice that my right rear speaker not sounding good. When I discovered the audio amp problem I new the two were related. In order to determine which component was bad I connected the amplifier card to it’s connector with out using the case which serves as a heat sink for the amplifier chips. With the switch off one of the amplifier chips instantly over heated. I immediately removed the connector so as not cause any more harm to the amplifier card. In order that I may have use of my car and have a radio, I removed the component from the board using a pair of small diagonal pliers. I am sure this would not be recommended by the dealer. However I am a technician with an electronics background not to mention I had nothing to loose, it worked. I will just have to do without one speaker until I can replace the audio amplifier.
After more research I have discovered that this amplifier is used in many year and models of Chrysler ranging from 1998 to present. The Chrysler part number is P04760293AD.
When I consulted the Dealership I found that a new audio amplifier is around $300.00. Checking with local junk yard and eBay I was able to find them for around $100.00. At this time I needed my vehicle and didn’t want to do without a radio. So I removed the amplifier card from the case in order to determine which component may be causing the problem. Since the current drain was only about 2 amps it was not obvious which component had failed.
About the time my problem started I notice that my right rear speaker not sounding good. When I discovered the audio amp problem I new the two were related. In order to determine which component was bad I connected the amplifier card to it’s connector with out using the case which serves as a heat sink for the amplifier chips. With the switch off one of the amplifier chips instantly over heated. I immediately removed the connector so as not cause any more harm to the amplifier card. In order that I may have use of my car and have a radio, I removed the component from the board using a pair of small diagonal pliers. I am sure this would not be recommended by the dealer. However I am a technician with an electronics background not to mention I had nothing to loose, it worked. I will just have to do without one speaker until I can replace the audio amplifier.
After more research I have discovered that this amplifier is used in many year and models of Chrysler ranging from 1998 to present. The Chrysler part number is P04760293AD.
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Thanks for the response. Wish I had your response sooner.
I had to bring it to the dealership. Would you please Tell me how much it cost, if I had brought it to a local Engine Repair Shop??? Thanks in Advance.
1. Tear down, diagnosis and inspection - found right side front timing chain tensioner cracked and broken. Parts from the broken tensioner fell in the oil pan.
2. Remove and re-install the oil pan, removing all the metal chunks in the pan.
3. Remove and replace timing chain, Guides, and all tensioners.
4. Re-Time the Engine Valve Train.
5. Re-seal the front of the Engine
6. Road test the vehicle
Parts to be Replaced:
1. Tensioner-Tensione
2. Tensioner-Timing Chain
3. Gasket
4. Gasket-intake plenum
5. Gasket-Cylinder Head Cove
6. Seal
7. Seal-front Main Crankshaft
8. Filter Engine Oil
9. Motor Oil
10. Coolant
thanks
Got a strange thing going on with my '93 Eagle Vision. At least it's strange to me. Remote entry acts very inconsistently. The car only has 67,000 original miles on it and the key fobs didn't work at all. So, I get one off of eBay. I follow the instructions for programming. It all makes sense. When I first tried it, the system would not go into programming mode. The next morning it did though. But the system would not respond to the remote. I tried about an hour later and then the programming deal seemed to work. Exited programming and the fob worked very intermittently from mostly just inside the car. Half hour drive into town and then the fob worked perfectly even from a distance. Shortly after that though it didn't work any more. Try to enter programming mode again and nothing. This morning entered programming mode just fine. But again, no response from the fobs. Tried again later this morning and it wouldn't go into programming mode.
It is acting very inconsistently. The only thing that seems somewhat related might be morning temperature vs. afternoon/evening temperature. When it starts to get pretty warm it doesn't even go into programming mode. Haven't confirmed that connection yet but after several tries it's starting to fall into that pattern.
So... I doubt it's the fob. Perhaps the BCM? Or what about the remote entry receiver? I have a possibly insignificant question on that... according to spec books and other online sources, my car is supposed to have a receiver pn of 4759220. But it actually has 4469340 which is for '92-'96 Viper.
So, any thoughts on any of this??
Thanks.... Norman
have you verified the freshness of your remote batteries? they hint at being near dead with the better performance when cool. they are the coin type batteries.
your keyless entry module is directly on top of the dash, under the plastic valance cover, in the center windshield area next to the solar eye sensor. [if equipped] those can get cooked. I have a 94 vision tsi I bought in july 2010. there is a procedure for checking this system. let me know about the batteries first. todd in carlsbad, ca.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412486&highlight=middie