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Pontiac Montana



  • I own a 2002 Pontiac Montana. Only 107,xxx miles on it. Recently the check engine light came on and the car started dying while approaching stop signs and just recently it died while slowing from 55 to 45 mph. It isn't doing it all the time though. Yesterday my wife had no problems and drove it about 60 miles. I had a diagnostic check done and it states that either, 1.O2 is bad, 2. Cylinder misfire, or 3. Injector bad. All of this is occuring to bank "1" according to the report. I am not sure an O2 sensor would make the car just die in mid driving. I was planning on starting with the O2 sensor only because of cost. Does anybody have any ideas or had this happen to them before?
  • you might want to check the map sensor. i had a simular problem my car would shutoff as i was slowing down going into a turn. i changed all the crank sensors but it still did it until i changed ths map sensor ( the big air sensor attached to the air filter intake).
  • Thanks for the idea! I will post again when I try this part.
  • Hi,

    Can anyone tell me if the 2002 Pontiac Montana comes with a block heater stock? Another user told me depends on trim best to tell what trim package I have? Sorry..I bought this used....
  • I have a 2000 Montana and I have a problem when you hit a large water puddle it spits. sputters and backfires. I was told it could be a crank sensor problem. We also have a code coming up P0240 and code P0240P anyone have any ideas what these codes mean.
  • You sound like you know allot more then I do but just wanted to share that after my nephew cracked my filter housing on my 1998 Pontiac Tran-Sport I had to be careful about going through puddles... I would lose allot of my power while driving due to the filter getting wet. It to would sputter. Sounded like a jalopy strolling down the street. It sounded bad but disapated as the filter dried out. You never know, Could be something so simple. Lol!!
  • frymanfryman Posts: 19
    I have a 1998 Pontiac that has been plagued with DTC code P0420 showing every 50-100 miles of rural driving. I have replaced the catalytic converter (after market) and the aft oxygen sensor. No other codes are showing up when read. I can clear the code and about 100 miles, it shows up again.

    The code cleared for about 1500 miles after the cat was changed and started getting more frequent. The frequency has not changed with the replacement of the aft oxygen sensor.

    Car runs fines and gets 19-22 MPH in highway/town driving.

    Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

  • P0420 is a unique code that will set when the pre and post o2 sensors toggle at the same rate and speed. ( indicating cat has no reserve capacity ) The ecm will also perform invasive testing of the cat. Many of the 3.4 engines are known for repeat head gasket and or intake manifold issues, extended operation with coolant contamination will damage cat. Have you noticed any coolant or Oil loss? The design of this engine and its intake gasket can cause engine oil consumption ( not as popular as coolant on this vehicle ) the only other suggestion would be oem converter I've obtained them from salvage yards opposed to generic.
  • No vacuum going to the rear heater airbox to let hot air into the rear vents... anyone know where the vacuum line starts?! I'm pulling my hair out trying to find the vacuum source! :mad:
  • I'm having the same problem with my 2005 Montana. Did you end up replacing the map sensor? If yes, did it help?
  • yes. changing the map sensor solved my problem.
  • I did not change my MAP Sensor. My problem ending up being the non-mechanics they hire at Wal-mart. My wife had taken the car to get an oil change. Somehow the personel had unhooked the whole air intake from the filter to the throttle body. They did not replace it correctly leaving a huge gap between the housing the Mass air flow sensor. Once I realized that, I hooked up the air filter and intake tube correctly, my problem went away.
  • Hi everyone!

    I have a 1999 Pontiac Montana (3.4 L, extended cab) with 200k miles, it was the first new car I ever bought, and I find it to be a good vehicle. I've driven this GM-Doraville product from Florida to Nova Scotia and Virginia to California. Yes, the transmission needed replacement at 140k, and the head gasket blew at 170k. However, the latter was on a family trip through the Mojave desert when I was really pushing it (even then, this van got me to San Diego - did not strand me in Las Vegas - and I will forever be grateful). I like Pontiacs and I hope to drive this one another year or two.

    About 6 months ago, the car began intermittently to have trouble running from a cold start: it would start fine, but would sputter and misfire when I would give it gas and try to run above idle. (The exhaust smells very rich while this sputtering occurs.) After about 5-10 minutes of idling, when the engine warms up, it runs ok. The weird thing is, when it is really cold (~25 F in LA, that's lower Alabama, brrrrrr) the car starts and runs ok, without the warm-up... so, this problem is related to temperature or moisture (cold here means dry, too). I never get a check engine code when starting, but if I get on the highway and step on it, it runs a bit rough and I've seen two codes: 'misfire on #4 cylinder' and 'Catalytic converter under efficiency.' A dealership mechanic kept it a week, with this behavior, and he could not figure it out. (He did say he tried a new coil pack, with no change.) I replaced the thermostat and the fuel filter yesterday, but no change. Also, the spark plugs and wires were new at 170K.

    I'd be grateful for any suggestions to help me fix this.
  • Hi their, I have a 1999 Montana I have tried to read the OBD2 however I can not seem to get a connection, so no codes.

    What would cause me all kinds of Misfires ? At times it runs okay, then the check engine light will flash and she will misfire.

    Can anyone give me a list of things to do to it. ? or check.

    just got a new fuel pump that cost me $700 what a money pit. :mad:
  • I'm guessing: a bad ignition module.
  • I will stick a new one on. And see what happens.
  • Misfire on #1 could this just be a plug and wire ? it is on a 1999 Pontiac Montana.

    Any help would be great ?
  • How'd you isolate the problem to the #1 wire/ plug? I'm getting out of my limited experience now, but when I had a bad wire on a Mustang years ago, the problem wasn't intermittent, but continual until I replaced the wire. I've had a 99 Venture & now a 2002 Montana, but neither one had/ has your problem.
    But one thing's for sure, it's easy & cheap to replace a plug wire.
    Before that I had a Honda which used to foul one sparkplug. Anytime the engine'd start to miss, I'd pull & clean the plug & all would be well again.
  • kenniekennie Posts: 38
    When I purchased my 2000 montana used I got the dealership to print the report of work done when under warranty... strangely enough on the report it showed they replaced the #1 plug... coincidence... not sure. Just fyi.
  • Yup I replaced the plug and the wire on #1, that did the trick, as for the OBD2 it was a short in a crimped wire, so I repaired that. Then got a reading that said Misfire #1.

    Why only plug one ? I don't know, maybe she is getting ready to blow coolant ?

    Now I need to figure out why I have no driver information Display. Wonder if it has to do with the aftermarket stereo. ?

  • kenniekennie Posts: 38
    What do you mean by no driver information Display?
  • Hello, I just purchased a 98 Trans Sport Montana, was told up front that the electric door does not work. I do my own repairs as much as possible. Where do I start with this issue. :confuse:
    Thanks Dean
  • tiny_bambitiny_bambi Posts: 14
    You can try cleaning the metal contact part where the door closes but I found that not to be the fix all and continued having issues with the slider in my van not functioning as it should. (I just shut it off and kept it that way) I have a 1998 Pontiac Transport. You might want to call the appropriate dealership in your area, There was a recall on this issue so my guess is that you should be able to get the repair at no cost to you. I did go in for the recall and was told that they did not have the part at the time but would order it and call me but I never heard from them. Like your name by the way, Lol :-)
  • bifsterbifster Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me if a full size (215 70R15) tire will fit where the donut spare tire is?
    There seems to be allot of room under there but would like to find out before getting on my back.Thanks in advance! :)
  • lolak70lolak70 Posts: 2
    My passenger side power window worked fine today, and then an hour later it wouldn't work with the passenger or driver side switch. Then when we got out of the van, my husband got a bad shock when he touched the passenger door. Any ideas what would be causing this?
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    It may be a an electrical short...could be as simple as a loose wire.
  • frymanfryman Posts: 19
    I have a 1998 transport that has recently developed a noise from the drive train (transmission, axle or wheel) that sounds like a prop plane. It increases in frequency and volume as speed increases. It is not engine, can shift into nuetral and the noise will continue, winding down as the car slows.
    When I lifted the front end and took off the wheels to see if I could pin point, the traction control turns on and applies brakes (without track on the wheels) so any idea of what the problem is would be helpful.
    I need this car to last another two-three months so if this is something I can drive on, so much the better.
  • nthompson1nthompson1 Posts: 13
    I recently bought the above van, and immediately discovered a overheating problem which occurs in driveway while idling, and also driving a mile starting cold. Before I bought it, I sat in the passenger seat while the previous owner drove it a short distance, so I couldn't see the gauges. Of course, the owner claims it never happened before.
    First, gauge on the dash goes all the way over to hot, then the lighted water signal says hot, then the check engine light goes on. Then the engine dies but restarts easy.
    When I first looked at the engine coolant reservoir at the owner's house, it was almost full. Now it is full to the top, and the radiator is short 1/2 gallon.
    The previous put 1/2 gallon water in the radiator at my house.
    When we started the engine again, the radiator fluid is sucked out somewhere, again 1/2 gallon short.
    My thought is to take another car to the store and buy the DEX-COOL recommended in the manual, drive the trans sport to a parts store to get tested.
    My "new" trans sport has 186,000 miles. It has 13 car faxes(cost $40 to get).
    Is it possible there is a simple solution?
    I am VERY wary as I just had a master brake cylinder installed on a 1991 Dodge Ram Pickup. It doesnt brake any better, and now am told it needs at least new brake lines.
    I am a deserving person who needs your help. Thank you.
  • quehousequehouse Posts: 8
    Sounds like a wheel bearing assembly to me. Easy to change but the part is fairly expensive. If one side is gone then surely the other side is close to going. Good luck.
  • quehousequehouse Posts: 8
    Check your engine oil. I bet it is over full. If so you have a blown manifold gasket. Sounds like the correct mileage for this engine. The dexcool eats away at the cheap OM gasket. Have it changed to the metal reinforced gasket and you will be good to go.
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