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Pontiac Montana



  • I was RIPPED OFF on a 1997 Pontiac Montana Trans Sport - overheated big time right away. I paid $1450, spent another $1000 on new radiator, thermostat, air filter, oil change, new antifreeze, insurance. Radiator repairman put water in, after charging me for 2 antifreeze gallons. Now, the water/antifreeze, oil are intermixed. The radiator tests to low of 20 Deg F, not enough for MI winters. I have been told to drain radiator and put new antifreeze in; also, to drain some of the engine oil(oil floats on top of water, so water should come out first). Is this the best idea?
    If this is done, should I start the engine in the driveway or leave well enough alone.
    I am willing to sell the minivan for $1800.
    Pleasae help!
  • In your subject line of your message you state "blown head gasket" ??? Is this fixed?
  • No, it is not fixed. But for sure that is the main problem.

    I dont have a mechanic I can trust so I am having it at least winterised in the driveway.

    Until I can afford/want to spend more money, this is how it has to be.
  • After spending $2500 on a used Trans Sport, I finally found a mechanic that I can trust. Before spending another $1000 on a head gasket, I am going to store it in the driveway this winder(SW MI). He is coming over Sun. to drain the water/antifreeze, and fix the oil/water/antifreeze mixture.
    The snow will get plenty deep all around the minivan; will this hurt anything else?
    Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.
  • After head gasket blew(at least), the fluid has been drained from the radiator, and minivan stored inside.
    Do I need to have the oil/water/coolant mixture drained from the motor? The stick shows reddish liquid above the full line.
    This is in Michigan.
  • Red-handled dipstick (very long): Transmission fluid. It sounds like this is what you were looking at. It is normal for it to appear above the fill line with the engine stopped and cold. Magenta is the normal color. I wouldn't drain it for storage.

    Yellow-handled dipstick (short): Engine oil. If dark brown, I'd change the oil before storage although perhaps not necessary. It should be between the low and high marks when off and cold. If it is a soft grey color or has milky streaks, it is still contaminated with water-coolant mixture from the blown head gasket and definitely should be changed.
  • I just replaced my MAF and for about 4 days all was good, today the SEL comes back on and its throwing a code 102 or MAF sensor circut low imput.???? a little help please
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    My wife hit something with the RH power mirror, knocked/broke it off the door. I've reattached it to the door, need a new mirror. Got a question: there are two wires on the backside of the mirror that attach to it like wires on a window defogger....any idea what they are for? I suppose they could heat the mirror, but don't know.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    Never mind...I was going to fix the mirror, but just got a whole new mirror assembly on ebay for $55 delivered. Turns out the mirrors are heated....I never knew.
  • Ok the plot thickens on my car, yesterday the power door locks started cycling on thier own to the point if ii left the engine running and got out to open my gate i could get locked out of the van!! I am looking through the repair manual now, it was really late last night but is it me or is there no fuse to pul for the power locks?? still having MAF sensor problem too
  • OK, this thing with the locks throwing by themselves happened to my wife and daughter while they were away on a road trip, far from home. My wife phoned me in a panic saying it was as if the car was haunted, locks throwing by themselves and the horn honking too. I thought about it and advised my daughter to remove the button battery from her key fob, which she had only just started carrying with her. That did it, the key fob was flaky.

    Also, I feel that sometimes the body electronics will act up if the battery goes completetly dead and/or is removed, as when buying a new battery.
  • thank you for the reply thought about the key fob its old and worn, I will try it meanwhile i am carrying a spare key.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    I had this problem years ago on my Firebird, it was moisture related: opening the door in the rain would sometimes let water into the door-mounted switches, and they'd act up until they dried out.
  • Right front noise. At any speed and not affected by bumps or turns. This is a straight ahead noise from the right front. I do not feel it in the streeing wheel so I dont think it is a flat spot or a seperated belt on the tire. The smoother the road the more I can hear it from low speed to high speed it is there and it matches the speed or the car in terms of how fast the thump is occuring. Any ideas?
  • I know it's been a month, but did you ever get resolution? I went through something like this. My symptoms were scoring on the brake disk even though brake pads were not excessively worn, and a once-per-revolution bump similar to a tire problem. Some loss in handling but not severe enough to suggest broken ball joint or steering linkage. It turned out to be the hub-bearing assembly.The bearing was not seizing (I've had that too in another failure), instead it was loose and falling apart. You can tell right away if you lift the wheel off the ground. If the steering knuckle feels tight but the road wheel has some play (and furthermore the knuckle doesn't move while you are making the road wheel jiggle) you have a broken bearing. The hub and bearing are a sealed, modular assembly. DIY cost to replace, about $160. Difficulty about 3.5 on a 1 to 5 scale. Requiries specialty tools loaned from your auto parts store.
  • any luck on resolving this issue? I've the same situation but have not tried turning off and back on.
  • cjt72cjt72 Posts: 3
    the brake lights on the main 4 bulb assembly do not work,The light on the gate works when the brakes are applied.The parking lights and turn signals work.I've changed the bulbs but to no avail.Please help.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    I think I had this problem, I had to replace the plastic assembly that the lights plug into...seems like the assembly can melt and short out at a socket where you can't tell unless you look closely, and it messes up the whole thing.
  • cjt72cjt72 Posts: 3
    thanks for the info.i will definately look into it tomorrow as it is dark out.again thanx, i will keep u posted on wat i find out tomorrow.
  • cjt72cjt72 Posts: 3
    everything looked alright.....took apart the assembly and dont know wat i did but 1 brakelight came on.puzzled??? didnt want to take it to a garage but as its my only car i kinda have to. thanks again.
  • That posting about the overheated socket is an interesting thought. On other car I had plastic in an overheated harness connector soften and resin flowed into contacts, breaking contnuity. Maybe touch up the socket with a fold of sandpaper, or a little rattail file?

    I also wonder if the sockets are OK but electrical continuity for the bulbs to battery ground is via ground wire to the frame in the vicinity of the lamp assembly, and the grounds have gone flaky due to rust.
  • fastford1fastford1 Posts: 4
    I've had the same problem. I have changed the motor and still have the problem. Could there be another fix for this ??? Help I have both driver and pass window doing this on my van. I hate to put them down, not sure if I will get them to go back up.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    It may be the switches are worn. You can get replacements online, I did this for my Montana, about $30 and easy to do.
  • Where are the resistors located that control fan speed ?
    I currently have my glove box removed trying to locate the resistors.
  • kenniekennie Posts: 38
    You will it under dash just above the passenger feet ! Mine went and the lower speeds did not work, replaced, all good now. [non-permissible content removed] to get out (one of I think 3 screws).
  • I have a 98 Trans Sport Montana and i'm having trouble with my front windshield wiper they work when they want to. I took it to Canadian Tire to get them working the one time because i had to go out of town and they told me it was a parking mechanism that was going and this is a part that goes alot in these vans. My question is does anyone know how much this part cost new or used.
  • kkollwitzkkollwitz Posts: 274
    Are the wipers out of phase, i.e., do they park incorrectly up on either side of the windshield?
  • akashmerakashmer Posts: 12
    Here is what I did to get the doors and motors back up and going on my 03'.

    Take the door finisher off, using a razor blade peel of the clear plastic sheeting and the using the razor to cut the black goo is easier that pulling. save to re-apply.

    Loosen all nuts on the window track and after you take the screw out apply Green LOCTITE the refasten. Make sure the original marks in the paint are covered by the bolt. This this way you know your putting everything back in the same position.

    The track grease is usually dry, re-spread new SILICONE plumbers grease to all moving parts.

    The electric motor is dirty! The electric motor is covered in a housing holding its rare earth magnets. Its Black, held on with 2 screws. remove the 2 screws pull of the cover. Mind the Rubber O ring. You will see the armiture and the 2 brushes. You can remove the armiture BUT be very careful not to damage the bushes/ bearing area on gear end of the unit. you have to clean the brush surface and re-lube the bearing so it may be easier to take it out...Putting it back in can be a pain but I thought it worth the try. it was, Mark the armature with a paint pen that way you know what position to put it back in.

    You now have to clean the front bearing area, brush contact area and the rear thrust bushing.

    I use an eraser to clean the contacts and electroinc parts cleaner to wash it off. The coils on the armiture can be rusty clean that off and wipe down with WD-40.
    Oil the bearing surface with LIGHT OIL. 3&1 or something like that ONLY.
    Put the armiture back in, the brushes will give you trouble, patience is a virtue.

    Clean the inside of the cover make the sure the magnets are good and strong. clean out all rust, coat w/ WD-40. AND add a drop or 2 of the Light oil to the bearing seat!
    put it back on Mind the O-ring smear some sicone grease on that to keep everything good and water tight.

    I have done this for EVEY car I have owned, all but my old honda with cranks!
    IT DOES WORK and is free...if you can do it!
  • wd42wd42 Posts: 1
    So i am trying to trouble shoot this on going issue with my van. It started with over heating and engine stalling with the temperature gauge pinning to the right. Mechanic said turn screw near thermostat to relive air. did not work. Change thermostat, did not work. Coolant flush worked great.... for 2 months then it happened again. Loosing fluid but dont know were it is going. Oil is clean. While driving it pinns to the right and the temp light comes on then it goes back down again. Top hose on rad HOT. bottom hose on rad does not seem to have any pressure to it... i really don't know what else to do and if its head gasket i am screwed... could it be water pump?
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