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Full Sized Vans



  • hello there i have a 1984 gmc cargo van i want to make an ultimate monster with extra engine parts i have on hand. It originally had a 4 bbl carb on top of the stock 305 but it was quite worn (odometer had rolled over and is reading 114k as it was used for a forklift repair van) replaced it with a 350 from an older suburban and worked great for a while but is loosing its touch as it is an older engine but what can you ask for when you get the whole suburban for 200 dollars with a shot body. But now i have a 1988 camaro iroc with the 350 tpi engine with front end damage but no apparent damage to the engine, transmission or rear end and i was wondering if it was possible to put any if all in that van to make it a custom ride as i want to use it for just hauling paintball gear for my paintball team as well as dress it up to look mean to have an original look and feel (although people will be calling it my a-team van) i just want to be able to use parts i have on hand and save a buck i think it would be cool to have power of a muscle car but body of a van. I understand the drive shaft might be a different size and the van is carbureted and the camaro is fuel injected but if i use the same intake from the old van (if possible) can i put a better or just newer carb on it or is it possible and not difficult to make it fuel injected. reason why i ask cuz i got excellent fuel mileage cuz it was running great before it was damaged (spent 4 years fixing engine and a many of dollars fixing it) not to mention it was quite quick to go. i will not be doing any heavy loads maybe a utility trailer to haul garbage to the dump (couple hundred pounds) as i have been working on the interior to make it nice inside with nice carpet and custom interior as well as lighting audio/video installations done by my self. so if any one can answer my questions or tell me where i can get my answers that i need please tell me as i am eager to do something unique
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    Does anyone know how to adjust the transmision in a 2000 Ford E150 van so that it does not downshift out of overdrive into a lower gear? On slight inclines, my van constantly downshifts to a lower gear. I have owned other vans before, both Chevy and Ford, with overdrive transmissions but none constantly down shifted like this van does.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    I think the shifts are electronically selected based on ratio, available torque, and throttle position among other things. You may have a drivetrain combination with a tall final drive gear ratio and/or insufficient torque combination to leave it in OD. There may be an adjustment, but I don't know of one.

    Check for improper engine tune and trans fluid/filter and vacume modulator (if there is one).

    Shifting out of overdrive manually when you start to climb and on steep terrain is a very good idea to avoid the automatic downshift and the stress on the tranny and your nerves. I'm used to shifting mine, staying in 3rd (pressing the button on the end of the shift, OD is illuminated) until the top of the grade and shifting back (extinguishing the OD light). Also, slowly giving more throttle in 4th it holds gears a little longer than the cruise servo does. But you already thought of that.
  • nwraaanwraaa Posts: 170
    The problem with my van is that the inclines are not steep. It has been my experience with the other vans that they would not downshift out of overdrive until I made a command for a down shift by depressing the accelerator pedal almost to the floor. There is no engine misfire on with this van. I am using a code reader and there are no codes showing on the reader. Except for the down shifting issue, the transmission is working okay. I know that on the Chevys, there is a cable which, if not adjusted properly, will cause the transmission to shift improperly. I was wondering if there was some device that could be adjusted on the Ford vans. This was not an issue on my other Ford vans.
  • la4meadla4mead Posts: 347
    I know older, mechanically shifted models used a cable and a vacume modulator. I don't think that's true for more modern electronically-shifted models (but I'm not an expert, either). If it was a sensor or ECT problem, I think you'd find a code.

    I hope someone knows and you find out you can adjust it. But I'm left thinking it's just the final drive ratio/engine combo you have, since it's apparent there is no other problem.

    If it turns out there's no mechanical adjustment, perhaps an aftermarket ECU controller might help, similar to the ones used to adjust engine control functions. Banks has one for the larger-output RV motors. There are many aftermarket manufacturers, many include adjustable shift controls.
  • I have a Ford E-250 cargo van with a 4.2 liter engine. When it first starts up it runs great but once it warms up it idles low, the oil pressure light (low) goes on and the engine makes a clunking noise. Recently I was on a forum (can't remember where) and several people had the same problem and there was some discussion on a bad oil pump causing the problem. Does anyone have experience with this problem?
  • is it posible to take a 95 truck rearend and put it in a van without to much grief?95 dodge truck to 98 dodge fullsize van.
  • I am replacing the AOD tranny in my 1992 Ford e-250 conv. van.

    I am hearing horror stories about making sure the throttle valve cable is adjusted correctly or I could burn up the replaced tranny.

    Is this something I can do, I work as a mechanic in general and have broad mechanic skills wit the exception of tear down/rebuild tranny experience.

    "IS THERE" a major problem with this "throttle Valve" cable that I should be aware of and can I re-install my used trans without the assistance of a tranny shop/technician?
  • henry10shenry10s Posts: 7
    You would have the 4R70W transmission. It is electronically controlled by the PCM. This is not a normal behavior. Ford transmissions are notorious for this, and there can be different, the simplest causes are Vehicle Speed Sensors, and more involved such as valve / solenoid malfunction, OD Servo, or insufficient fluid pressure on OD clutches, or worn out clutches. These last 2 require re-builts (worst case). These causes usually do not illuminate the "Chek Engine" light.

    If you have a transmission test gauge (about $ 55) you can run simple line pressure tests yourself. If you haven't done this before you need to go to a specialized Transmission shop for them to diagnose it, usually about $ 100. They are also pull codes which a $ 100 Code reader can't.
  • henry10shenry10s Posts: 7
    I think your transmission code has the letter "E" in it as well. I think in 1992 AOD were electronically controlled.

    Yes, incorrect TV cable can ruin the transmission. You need to follow Ford's Shop Manual for the correct procedures to set this right.

    As a general mechanic, you should not have problems for DIY for taking out and installing the replacement. Re-building is another matter. Of course, you are a lot better prepared to do a re-build than most shade-tree mechanics, however you will need patience, time, be diligent and be willing to research and learn.
  • henry10shenry10s Posts: 7
    It a common FORD problem: the VSS wire, harness or both have been damaged. Run continuity tests to troubleshoot.

    ABS may not be related to the VSS problem.
  • henry10shenry10s Posts: 7
    Ford's Oil Pressure Sender and Oil Pump are common problems. Clunking noise is definitely not good. You should not drive the vehicle. I would troubleshoot or even change the Sender first ($ 22). Advice: sender needs a special tool called "Oil Pressure Sender Removal Tool" about $ 25, available at most auto parts stores.

    Oil Pump is not very difficult to change for DIYers. Don't let a $ 100 pump and 2 hours of work cost you an engine failure.
  • henry10shenry10s Posts: 7
    Make, Model, engine size?
  • henry10shenry10s Posts: 7
    Yes, PCM is supposed to ground the injectors. You need to pull codes. The you need to run diagnostics. For this you will need a Ford Shop Manual and schematics.

    It appears that your PCM is in fuel cut-off mode for some reason. Several inputs (sensors and switches) can cause this. Are you having any other malfunctions?
  • henry10shenry10s Posts: 7
    Typical Vehicle Speed Sensor symptoms. Check its wiring BEFORE replacing it.
  • I've got a 95' Ford 250 Van...4.9 liter motor. I started it and it stopped running. Motor turns over, but it won't fire. Coil wire is connected securely???
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks in advance...Dave
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