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Chevrolet/Geo Metro



  • Thanks for the response. I will rsearch the "teamswift" site for more details. I wanted to keep the automatic from my 1.3L but also wanted to gain the economy from 1 less cyl. I'm not quite sure how saving the final gear drive from one would work in the other... (different trannies). But I'm still sourcing a donner car so I have time to learn. Thanks again.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    I think you'll be very disappointed at the economy of a 3 cyl engine; when driving through an automatic transmission. The EPA rated the 3 cyl engines with automatics at TEN MPG LESS than the same car with a 5 speed. The reason this is true is because the small 3 cyl engine was designed to pull a very lightweight car; and the driveline was also optimized for the least possible load and drag. The 3 speed automatic has two less gears than the 5 speed manual, and thus places a much higher load on the engine during acceleration. And that is why all the fuel is wasted. I personally believe the automatic transmission on the 3 cyl Metro was only added to satisfy the demands of U.S. drivers; who typically don't understand and often don't care about the engineering tradeoffs that are necessary to get peak performance and best fuel economy.

    If you need an automatic; the larger 4 cylinder engine will have a much easier job in that environment, and will definitely have a longer service life. It also will give very similar; if not better fuel economy than the overstressed 3 cylinder; when pulling an automatic. I have repeatedly seen 3 cylinder Metro engines go bad at relatively low mileages; when coupled to automatic transmissions. But it's your call, and your money. I'm just a mechanic who knows the bottom line for that story.
  • GACIIGACII Posts: 5
    I got and installed the ignition module - no start. I decided to disengage all the electrical connectors I had moved or touched during the rebuild. What I found was a loose bolt holding a ground wire on the back of the intake manifold - I had pulled on the wire previously and it seemed tight but there are two ground connections inches apart and I pulled on the wire as if there was a single connection. The car started immediately and runs great. In a previous post you mentioned these wires and I checked but...... I hope my lack of attention helps someone else. Thanks for your help and insight.
  • I think some ignition coils from some old Mazda and Honda models will solve any problem on the Metro.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Them old coils sure worked on my car. It run better den it ever did befo.
  • I have a 95 metro as well, and it has the same rolling idle, and loss of mileage (from about 47 to 35 or so). I am wondering if you figured out the problem, and if it was the EGR valve sticking. Thanks
  • ki7whki7wh Posts: 3
    The metal pipe that connects to the back of the water pump has pulled out and I am having a heck of a time trying to get it seated given the o-ring around it. Any ideas or tips to get it in?
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    If the o-ring is old; it may have swelled. In that case, a new o-ring may be an easier fit; but you'll need to get it from a Chevy dealer (or possibly a Suzuki dealer), as it may well be a non-standard or metric size. I would also suggest removing the old o-ring, and thoroughly cleaning out all debris from behind and under it, and lubricating it with a light coating of silicone grease or WD-40 before trying to reinstall the pipe. Be sure the pipe does not have any burrs on it, and is not deformed. You may also be able to clean up the surface of the pipe with a file.
  • 96 Geo/Metro 1.3 engine runs good.engine light stays on want pass inspection code PO753 [shift solenoid a electrieal shows up] have changed the 2 solenoid in bottom of tranny[not cheap] didn't help if you take off in drive it acts like it's stuck in 3rd start off in low work to drive works good.Any ideas
  • Since you say that the car won't turn over, it very well could be your starter. The gear teeth do mesh with the fly wheel teeth. It sounds like the shop that did your clutch owes you some work. Now my question to you, I also have a 1991 geo metro lsi hatchback. I cannot find a distributor cap that will fit, where ever I go the cap diameter is to small. Have you had problems finding parts for your motor. Please email me with anything I love my car and its going to die if I don't find a cap :cry:
  • Hi there purring bird....
    What you want is a SUZUKI distributor cap. Go to that dealer's parts department.
    Your engine is a Suzuki.Change your plugs and wires while you're at it.
  • :cry: My 1991 geo needed a tune-up so I go get cap, rotor, wires, air filter, etc....
    Everything fit except the distributor cap, diameter is to small. Everywhere I go even the dealer ship the cap is to small. The cap you can order for a 1.0 is the same for a 1.3 liter motor. They are all to small. The diameter I need is 1 3/4 inches across and has 2 bolts that attach it to the distributor. Dosen't anyone out there have a 1991 geo. Please, please help my car is going to die if I don't get another cap. :cry: :sick: You can email me with your ideas at Thank You
  • ki7whki7wh Posts: 3
    I installed new water pump (finally). I did not pull the timing belt sprocket off so I think the timing should be the same when I put the timing belt on, but I did not check the marks. The engine almost starts but does not. Is it the timing or something else. The car has not been run for about a month and is the front end is at an angle on jack stands. Starting fluid into the throttle body does not help.

    Thanks in advance.
  • ki7whki7wh Posts: 3
    Thank you Zaken. I was able to get it in by putting some silicone spray in. Now to find out why it won't start.
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    It would probably be a good idea to install new spark plugs (Bosch Fusion #4501 would be the best choice), the Bosch Fusion plugs have a non adjustable gap; but if you use a conventional type plug be sure the gap is set to .042". If the distributor cap (both inside and out), coil, or plug wires have dirt or moisture on them, that will also make it hard to start; those items should all be thoroughly cleaned with a rag moistened with brakecleaner or Stoddard solvent. And if the battery has become partly discharged from sitting so long, it will do the same thing. So fully charge the battery with a battery charger. If the starter still cranks slowly, have the battery tested with a load tester. It may have decided to die at just this time.

    If the car is tilted upward at too steep an angle, and there is not enough fuel in the tank; the fuel pump may not be able to draw fuel out of the tank. Since you say that starting fluid does not help, this does not sound like the problem; but it still might be the case. In a situation like this; it is important to first turn the key to the position where the dashboard warning lights come on, and wait with the key in that position for a full ten seconds. Then turn the key the rest of the way to start the engine. This will allow enough time for the electric fuel pump to fill the lines and build up enough pressure to fully prime the injector.
  • I have a four dr. metro with the 3 cylinder motor,automatic tranny. I rebuilt the motor in 07. It quit running in 08 and didnt get around to messing with it until this week. I added 6 gallons of med. grade gasoline to the tank and replaced the fuel filter. Put in new autolite #63 plugs and it fired up and ran for approximately 5 seconds. I tried to start it again and it would fire off briefly. The plugs were drenched with fuel. I had a friend turn the key while I looked down the carb,,,turning the key I heard a click and a stream of fuel entered the tbi. then stopped. As soon as the starter engaged, fuel, in a vast amount entered the tbi.It looked like way to much fuel. I disconnected the small gray connector located on the highest point on the carb on the passenger side which shut off the fuel. By engaging and dissengaging this plug by way of this balancing act I was able to warm up the motor sufficiently enough to keep the plug engaged,and keep it running. Drove around the block,ran great. This morning it wouldnt run. Please help. luke
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Good job at diagnosis!!! Your fuel injector is not shutting off completely, because it is sticking partly open. There are some professional quality DIY injector cleaning kits made by Champion Spark Plug Co, which you could use to clean the injector; but it would be better to exchange the injector for a completely remanufactured unit from You could also find a used injector at a wrecking yard; but that would be of unknown quality; and you'd need to be very careful not to get one from a model that has a different flow rate (and there are virtually no specs available on that kind of stuff). Also, you'll probably have to clean the plugs with a propane torch; as I bet they are soaked again.

    I would also recommend that you disassemble the fuel pressure regulator (the small square plate with 4 torx screws at the corners, which is mounted on top of the throttle body next to the injector) carefully lift off the diaphragm and spring; and make sure the diaphragem is not torn, and that the needle on the bottom edge of the diaphragm is able to move freely and can close off the opening where it seats; and that nothing is stuck into or is blocking that opening. Too much fuel pressure could also be the problem here.
  • WOW!!! Thanks for the quick response! Im taking your advice, and will use them on my car. Thanks also for the rockauto tip.Their parts stock and prices are great!
    I was wondering if you could give me some advice on setting the timing and Idle speed. I have a rpm tester but it has no setting for a 3cyl. I have no decal on the inside of the hood providing me with specs. I do know about grounding the little pigtail by the drivers side tower strut,,for the timing. Oh, it also has A/C. But no belt.Thank you
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    There is no idle speed adjustment on that engine, and no need to set the idle speed; as it is electronically adjusted by the computer. So those folks who start messing with the factory sealed throttle stop screw are bound to get themselves into a big can of worms. Because of that; there is also no need to use a tach.

    The timing is adjusted by grounding the pigtail, and watching with a timing light while you turn the distributor; until the little V notch on the crankshaft pulley lines up with the 6 degree BTDC mark on the timing belt cover.

    That spec is probably correct; but I don't know for sure whether your particular engine is intended to be set a little differently. You'd need to check a service manual or owners manual to get the factory timing spec. Bear in mind that with breakerless electronic ignition, the timing should remain stable for the life of the car. So if it was originally set properly, you shouldn't need to readjust it; unless the timing belt has been replaced.
  • Thank you once again,zaken1 for your excellent iinformation regarding the tweeking and dialing in of the ignition timing for the 3cyl. metro!
    I followed your advice in the previous post and carefully took out the four torque screws on the fuel pressure regulator. No tears on the diaphram and the what looked like a small hearing aid battery moved freelly and looked otherwise in good shape. I also called and spoke to one of their people and he told me that I would need to send in my old fuel injector to a company that rebuildes them for a VERY affordable price. The down side is it will take about two weeks for the process.(the mailing back and forth) But, Im sold on this Idea,,,it might take some time but cost wise it is worth it to me.
    So once again I would like to thank zaken1 and this wonderfull forum for the timely advice they provide to fellow GEO owners,,,take care,,,luke
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    Luke, I just wanted to add that the inlet air temperature sensor (the brass unit mounted inside the air filter housing) MUST be connected when you run the engine. If that plug is not connected; the computer will think the outside air temperature is sub-zero cold; and will richen the fuel mixture further than you'd ever want it to be. And that will drown the plugs in fuel.

  • ok, the oil is coming up the speedo cable and leaking into the dash. the car is undrivable with the windows up. does anyone know how to fix this??????please help!
  • Hi there,
    Your Geo is identical to some Suzukis so:

    SUZUKI - TSB # TS3-0403261
    Transmission oil leak at speedometer head (many Swift models are affected, but only the GTi/GT M/T part numbers are present here)
    New parts:
    1) Speedometer gear case : 29431-60B00
    2) Speedometer driven gear (M/T, GTi): 26131-64B00
    3) Oil seal (M/T) : 26151-60B00
    4) Pin : 09205-03036
    5) O-ring : 09280-16012
    6) Speedo cable : 34910-61b20

    Oil drainage has been added to the new style gear case and the diameter of the slotted end of the driven gear has been decreased by 0.5 mm
    Installation Precautions
    • Be certain oil seal is fully seated and square to bore
    • Be certain the slotted end of the driven gear has no sharp edges that might damage the seal when installing
    • Lubricate gear and o-ring parts

    I'm sure vthat you can decipher this.
  • I am new to the forum, but have a question, are you discussing the heater system, my heater will blow on all settings, but no heat. Would this be the same problem? I am taking my 90 LSI to the mechanic next week, but would like to know a little before going.
  • where does the "oil seal" part go. are those suzuki part numbers you gave me?
  • Yes.
    You never specified what model you are driving: 3? 4? DOHC? SOHC? Year?
  • it is an 88 geo metro lsi.1 liter.(3cyl) i dont thinks it has an overhead cam at all. it is a 5 speed
  • zaken1zaken1 Posts: 556
    All Geo Metros (both 3 and 4 cylinder) were single overhead cam engines. And the first model year was 1989; so if you think yours is a 1988; you must be referring to the production date. Many 1989 model vehicles were first built in 1988, in order to allow time for shipping, so they could arrive at showrooms in September 1988. But they were designed as 1989 models. If you walk into a parts store and ask for a part for a 1988 Geo Metro; they'll tell you that there was no Geo Metro in 1988. If you look at the emission label on the underside of your hood, in the statement at the bottom of the label, you will see the model year the car was designed to be.
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