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GMC Yukon Denali/XL Autoride Suspension



  • macnymacny Posts: 6
    What I did was to install a load leveler hitch, sway control to pull my 14' double axel trailer rated at 7000 lbs. I weighed the trailer Loaded and it comes in around 5000.  Could be more loaded additional. This hitch, works great. It's the bar type, not chain, which I like, having not used the chains- however. It's easy to put on and off... And rights the trailer level. This is a 1500lb chassis. So thankfully it's working now. You can't depend on the air shocks that come on the Denali. I hope it lasts, as I'm not in the mood to be replacing these shocks, but when and if the time comes I'll look into all the suggestions and aftermarket solutions.  
  • dcloesdcloes Posts: 6
    edited January 2013
    Thought I'd post a link to another very helpful thread regarding this issue. Actually has pictures of the solenoid issue that are quite good. Since that's typically the problem with these sytems, thought others would like to see the pics. - -answer-1million-question-where-air-ride.html

    Page 10 of the thread photos of exhaust solenoid and broken wire... (Props to poster SK7 of the Cadillac Forum who posted these photos.)



    I learned from this other thread better way to remove the compressor is avoiding the torx bolts that get crazy rusted (mine were) and just loosen the 3 13mm bolts and move the entire compressor assembly cage up and out.
  • bcrawfo2bcrawfo2 Posts: 8
    I have an Arnott compressor on order for my 2004 100k mile Denali. I was looking at the Monroe OEM shocks, as I was worried about the Arnott rear shocks were remanufactured....and this doesn't make much sense to me. But then...I think about it...they have a lifetime warranty.
    But....thinking more about it...the shock is a normal shock along with the air bladder, right? Can they really rebuild the shock part? Or are they just putting a new air bladder on and old shock?

    What does everyone do for the front shocks? Monroe?
    Do I do Arnott for rear (warranty) and Monroe for front (price)?
  • flash37flash37 Posts: 1
    Not sure if this is related,
    Have 2004 Yukon Denali Xl.

    Compressor was changed at dealer a couple years ago.

    The car suspension has been working correctly, had a dead battery the other day.
    Fully charged, all works good, after sitting overnight dead again. Installed new battery same thing.
    Dead battery after sitting overnight.

    Took to our regular dealer spent 2 days chasing what is still running on the car, no luck.
    Took to Gm dealer and spent $ 200.00 same result they want more $$$$ to keep searching.

    I spent an hour yesterday, battery was dead, hooked up charger and can hear notice pulsing under car, this cycles over and over about every 5 to 10 seconds and battery charger needle flickers at the same time. Measure about 4v at the negative battery cable at this time.

    The first thing is there is a click at the air compressor behind the left rear wheel, then there is a pulse from the round cylinder under drivers seat that has multiple hydraulic lines connected then the relay on the wheel well next to the fuse box clicks. If I disconnect the electrical junction under the round cylinder under drivers seat this all stops, but all the warning lights on the dash are on when you start the car.

    All this is happening which the ignition off.

  • these messages are helpful, although i can't find the exact detail i think i need. I have 2007 Yukon Xl Denali, rear air motor went out, so i replaced the motor and the rear shocks, just to be safe. Now that i have them on, it doesn't seem they are working, motor doesn't kick in. I now have messages regarding the Stabilitrack system, to service and can't get it to reset. I've looked at the fush panel, seems #2 is for the air ride system, atlhough i'm not sure what relays are part of it also.
    Is there a way to manual jump the rear air motor to confirm it's working ok? and relays that i need to check, if they are bad?
  • graggrag Posts: 1
    Hello, this is my first post. I have a 2006 Envoy Denali (purchased new) with 85,000 miles which came equipped with autoride shocks. Today when leaving home it sounded as though I had a flat tire. I put the car in park, leaving the engine running, and got out to look around. The compressor was on and the rear raised up. Then the compressor went off. I drove around for a short distance until I finished my errands. So far, nothing else has occurred. Does this mean something is about to break or what? Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated. I called the dealer but they have not been very helpful.
    Thank you.
  • macnymacny Posts: 6
    my compressor used to come on, and rise up the rear a bit.. it has stopped doing that, and I pull a 14' loaded trailer, at least 5000 lbs.. i added a sway/weight distribution hitch, helps a lot. had a dealer look at it, he confirmed the compressor is not coming on, but the rear end has not done much.. but i worry the socks will fail completely. The dealer replacement parts are expensive, probably around $2000.. Arnott Industries has direct replacement air suspension parts, for much less, you can order and have them installed, suppose to be a winner.. which I will do shortly, and hope my rig makes its way back form Texas to New York before I have a problem.

    Aside of that I like my 05 Denali, but my airbag light is on, sounds like more money.. I have 95,000 miles on it.
  • pol4854pol4854 Posts: 1
    Hey all, new here and wanted to share a problem I am having with the air ride system on my 2003 Yukon. New front and rear arnott shocks just installed last week, and installed a new arnott compressor a few months ago on unfortunately blown rear shocks. Compressor runs, fills shocks with air, but after driving a bit, air is gone and the shocks at the rear are just slapping the top because there is no longer air in. If weight is on the back, compressor kicks in and shocks fill but no noticeable height change. Once the truck is off, the shocks empty. I did not rebuild the dryer, and can hear the odd hiss coming from the drivers side around the compressor when the truck is off. Do I need another compressor or just check for leaks...called arnott and they just said probably the compressor but could be a long list of others. I read through the posts here and did not find anyone with this prob so hope it hasn't already been explained to death. Thanks for any input you may have, it's appreciated.
  • macnymacny Posts: 6
    I can't help your problem, I have my own, seemingly. I just installed a pair of Arnott shocks in the rear, but obviously the compressor is not coming on. It want before either, except when I purchased the Denali a yer ago. I was hoping the new shocks would do the trick. sounds like I need to replace the compressor. I'm towing a 14' trailer loaded. I use sway/weight distribution hitch, the kind with the bars, it works great. Otherwise I'd be too low. However I'd loveit if the air shocks would inflate, and raise it up more when towing. I don't have an issue with height when not towing.

    Anyone know if I should get a compressor from Arnott.
  • dbetheldbethel Posts: 14
    Buy the compressor from Arnott! It is much cheaper than from the dealer. It comes with the filter/dryer rebuild kit and a new exhaust solenoid. I believe that the Arnott shocks have a lifetime warranty but the compressor has a one year warranty. I replaced both rear shocks and the compressor with Arnott parts a few years ago and everything is still working fine.

    Many times when the compressor will not run it is actually caused by the exhaust solenoid coil being open. The computer looks at the resistance of the exhaust solenoid coil and if it sees an open circuit it will not energize the compressor relay.
  • catheadcathead Posts: 3
    I have just replaced my shocks and compressor with Arnott replacements. The system worked about 3 times before the light came back on. I have checked all the fuses and they are good. I do not hear anything at the pump when I turn the key on. What is my next move?
  • catheadcathead Posts: 3
    I replaced the ALC relay and the light went for 1 day. This morning the light is back on and no clicking at the pump. What could this be?
  • dbetheldbethel Posts: 14
    Check the exhaust valve solenoid coil continuity. I had a new Arnott compressor assembly and the exhaust solenoid valve coil went bad shortly after installing it. Arnott replaced the assembly under warranty.
  • catheadcathead Posts: 3
    How do I check this?
  • dbetheldbethel Posts: 14
    edited June 2013
    Blue & white wires are the exhaust solenoid coil. Should be about 24 ohms resistance across them. When this is bad it will be an open circuit.

    Look at post #216 for pictures.
  • macnymacny Posts: 6
    sorry you have such trouble.. I purchased a set of the replacement shocks
    from Arnott for my 2005 Denali, went in smoothly.. but since the compressor
    was not working, did little good or change.. Just purchased the compressor
    from them, had my mechanic install, and all good now.. (i think, have to
    test out, but looks lto be finally working) the compressor was just under
    $200, I'm impressed, compared to the dealer replacement cost I was quoted..
    (2/3 less after all said and done) no error messages, that were present
    before replacement of the compressor. I have 100k on my rig.. And I pull a
    14' 7500lb rated trailer, loaded.. like this truck. I'm replacing only the
    back shocks and compressor.
  • rimetime2000rimetime2000 Posts: 1
    edited June 2013
    The same thing has happened to me. What did you do to get the broken screws out and where did you get replacement screws?
  • I have a 01 Yukon Denali I did the compressor test and when I touched them all it did was spark and nothing turned on. How do I know if the front shocks are air ride? There is a wire on top of the shock. I've never heard the compressor turn on but the back end doesn't sag. Also the rubber on the back shocks should that have air in them because they are ripped on the bottom. It rocks side to side when you hit bumps or dips on the road. I've had the vehicel for a week and I need to fix this so I can haul my boat. Where do I start?
  • dcloesdcloes Posts: 6
    Front shocks have wires, but they do not have air bladders.

    You say the rear shocks have ripped bladders? Call Arnott to replace. Or go to their website. Easy Easy Easy to swap them out and half the price of dealer.

    If the rear shocks have ripped bladders and the compressor wasn't disconnected, I'd bet it is also toast. It will just run and run and run and burn itself up if the system leaks.

    Arnott sell the rear shocks and compressor in a kit on eBay. That's what I bought.

    OH, I forgot to mention - I HATE THIS SYSTEM :)

    I've wasted so much time and money troubleshooting it. I got mine working and the wiring harness grounded out, which I've fixed, but it still won't come one. Back to the dealer I go.
  • spiritonespiritone Posts: 1
    I wanted to chime in and share my recent experience with the dreaded “service Auto ride” warning on my 2001 Denali. My apologies in advance for the long story but hopefully it will help someone out…
    The light started intermittently coming on last week and then finally stayed on. When I turned the key the compressor would start up for a few seconds and then stop. After inspecting the rear shocks I found that the Driver’s side shock air bladder had a leak. This explained why I was always hearing the compressor intermittently kick on for the last few months. I ended up installing Monroe 40034 shocks which are direct replacements. Found the best price at Amazon… Installed the new rear shocks and powered up the truck. Compressor kicked on / filled the shocks. Cool! Problem fixed! Next startup the light was back on. Crap!!! Pulled the compressor and powered it up on the bench. Checked the exhaust solenoid which was working but the pressure switch was questionable. Searched all over the internet for just the pressure switch but was unable to find one. Figured I might as well replace the compressor as it looked pretty hammered (Denali is @ 117K). Plus it had been working overtime for the past few months due to the leaking shock. Ended up going with the Dorman 949-000 (ordered from Amazon). Installed the new compressor and powered up. Compressor kicked on / shocks filled / no auto ride light. Cool! Issue fixed!!! Not so fast…… Two startups later the light was back on. So now I’m about ready to call in a priest to perform an exorcism!!! Seriously though… Now It’s time to head to the dealer to pull the codes (sure wish I could afford a Tec II scanner)… Luckily the service tech was willing to hook up their scanner and give me the codes at no charge. Code history showed C0711 (Level control air pressure sensor circuit) and C0660 (Level Control Valve circuit) exhaust solenoid). The new compressor had fixed those issues… Current active code was C0575 (left front Sol. Circuit). Got the truck back home and took a good look at the connector on the front left shock. I found that the grounding contacts were corroded. Cleaned them up and reseated the connector. Powered up and no Auto ride light! So far it has not returned!!! If it does I will order the new AC Delco PT 1594 connectors from Amazon.
    Thanks for taking the time to read this!
  • dcloesdcloes Posts: 6
    I wished I had have purchased the Dorman bolt up replacement! Would have gladly paid an extra $100 for it. I'm pretty sure that's a fairly new product.
  • thredhdthredhd Posts: 1
    So I just went through the whole throttle body issue on my truck. Finally had to take it into a mechanic shop so they could find a short we couldn't find and re-flash the computer. The guy I bought this truck from is a mechanic so he knows the car inside and out. There are just some things he can't or doesn't have the time to do for me. Anyway, the mechanic shop is telling me I need new shocks. I tell this to my friend and he says its air ride suspension and probably best not to mess with it.

    Now I have not actually gone and picked up my car yet. I've only talked with the desk girl who relays the messages. I found this page from skimming over posts here

    I do not know a thing about air ride suspension. I don't even know what I have on this truck because I've never had reason to look. Do these things wear out over time? I know regular shocks get replaced sometimes.

    The only thing I've ever noticed about the suspension is that going over a speed bump is rough. You come down on the other side of that speed bump like the rear is filled with cement. I think it rides fine. My husband thinks it's a bumpy ride, but I tell him he is too used to driving those low sporty high dollar cars work gives him lol.

    any advice on the suspension/shocks for this truck would be great. thanks.
  • ukondoitukondoit Posts: 27
    I have a 2004 Yukon XL Denali - The air ride compressor and air shocks typically do not last much more than 100K and the sensor connections (which snap onto the top of the air shocks in fronts) typically fail since they are so close to the engine and exhaust manifold. My mechanic busted the connectors on the sensors where they connect to the top of the shocks so I was getting the ride control errors. At 100K, I replaced the compressor which failed with one sourced out from Arnotte Industries. It's worked just fine. BTW, if the compressor has failed or if the air bladders on the shocks failed, it will ride rough. You should be able to look at the shocks (with the engine running) and determine if either of these components have faield. These shocks are expensive from the dealer, but if you can get the reman OEM from Arnotte, you're going to come out smelling like a rose. My Yukon XL Denali (which has all OEM replacement shocks by Arnotte) has stabilitrac and it rides much better than my 2011 CHev Suburban LTZ.
  • ukondoitukondoit Posts: 27
    I noticed that Arnotte has a Bilsteen spring conversion kit and I see that it's got a " kit that also includes our new cutting edge technology to reliably eliminate any fault codes on your dash panel". It's my understanding that the OEM's (with stablilitrac) has sensors that control shock dampening (depending on vehicle speeds). It sounds like the Bilsteen system disables that feature and just tricks the computer into thinking that everything is ok. I'd like to know of anyone has used the conversion kit on Yukon Denali's and what impact did it have on the stabilitrac system. The price on the kit is good, but the ride must be totally different. Any words of wisdom on this?
  • I have been having this problem for a while now my service ride control light is on, and my truck rides awful. A few months ago I noticed holes in my air bags so I replaced them. After that the truck drove perfect for one day then it went right back to how it was before. I recently noticed the front of the truck sits lower than the back and a read something about the sensors on the front shocks going out so I replaced them. That did nothing now I am completely lost and I cant continue to spend all this money not to have the problem fixed someone please help.
  • mrbcmrbc Posts: 1
    I know this is 2+ years later, but could you tell me where you found the fuses and relays you checked? I found 1 large square fuse under the hood in the fuse panel. it controls the moon roof and air ride compressor it works and checks out fine yet I still get no air ride compressor activation.
  • The fuse and relay are on the drivers side above the front wheel well (under the hood).

    If you jump the relay contacts and the compressor runs then something is keeping the relay from being energized by the computer.

    My guess is that it is an open exhaust solenoid coil circuit. This is a common cause.
  • I keep getting codes on my 2003 Denali..."service stability" occasionally and "service ride control" consistently. My check engine light is always on but nothing shows when I check this at O'Reillys. I clear the codes with their system and 2 days later it is back on. When I bought the vehicle it had been lowered so my husband put in new rear shocks and raised the torsion bars on the front, could this have caused it? Where do I begin?
  • Hi Im having the same problems and how do you find the spot your talking about that is corroded on the shocks. Because I have had the light on and my Compressor turns on for 20-25 seconds after I start up. I changed the compressor from the old one to a Arnott compressor which had me rebuild the dryer and that a fifth grader could do. I put it all back together and it ran like normal but I don't know what to look at next? The Shocks appear to be holding air because it runs normal on start up then turns of if it wasn't turning off would indicate a bad compressor or shock be cause it would keep running and burning out my compressor so I need to find what keeps the light on. Please help??
  • Do you have a Cold Air K&N intake system because if you do the Check engine may be causing this because it gets oil residue in to your MAF sensor it will go away after the Mass Air Flow sensor gets in tune with you K&N cold air intake. Messing with the level of the vehicle will definitely trigger your service air ride control. Until its level and the air ride compressor works and the sensors are leveled than the light will go away, This vehicle is an alarm night mare if you are customizing by raising the Yukon and if your changing the rims and tires you will get another code from the Tire pressure monitor service. The only way to get all the light off the dash there is away to put get rid of them by installing resistors on the components alarming but Im not how to do it.
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