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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Mine stick out past the flares and I don't think it looks a Testarosa..


    I do agree with the steps - lose em. :) But I put rock rails on instead.

    The plastic flares DO help when offroad - I'd much rather have them rub than the metal itself. :)

  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    Cool JEEP.
    The Testarosa comment was in ref. to the ones where the flares are wider than the tires. (7 inch)
    Your set up looks just right.
    I helped chop one up last year.
    He was running 12.50 33's w/3" taller coils on a '99 TJ. We removed the flairs and running boards. Also cut the front fenders back.
    Made it look like an old CJ 2A. far getting away w/Honda turn signals in the grill.
    Goober bashed the body below the passengers door the first time out. So your right, "...rock rails good."
  • behennessbehenness Posts: 3
    Ok, so this has been going on for quite some time. When it happens it gives the no bus error and the gauges all stop working, fuel pump cuts out and the PCM stops working. I have traced it to the grounding wire (G105) on the passnger side of the engine. That wire is showing 200 ohms of resistance and is responsible for grounding the PCM and the fuel pump. From a cold start the Jeep runs fine but as it heats up I can feel it drive a little sluggy, until finally after a 1/2-1hr of driving it cuts out. If I let it sit and cool down for 10 minutes or so it starts right up and drives for another 10-15 minutes.

    I have been pulling back the wire covers bit by bit looking for the chafed wire that is most likely underlying this problem. Any info would be helpful, wiring diagrams would be great.
  • nworbekimnworbekim Posts: 17
    i tried it without the wider flares, and i just don't like the slop thats thrown up on the sides... i appreciate the comments about the testarosa flares... i don't want to get too wide...

    where do i measure to judge what i have now and what i need? i got a guy thats a pro body man that says he'll put them on for me... cheap :) i've done him some good deeds in the past, so he's paying me back... without me asking him to do so, by the way...

    what about the measurements though? how do i decide what i need?
  • i'm unable to answer your question regarding wiring, but possibly you have 2 problems?

    when i first bought my wrangler, my fuel pump would quit on me after a short time of driving... i found i could beat on the bottom of the fuel tank near the right bottom side where you find a bump... and it would start up again...

    i had the pump replaced... had to drop the tank, the **** thing is INSIDE!!! and these days of cheap, trashy fuel, it may just be the filter, which is inside too...

    so the 2 problems may seem related, but actually not? i don't know... i've seen wilder things...

    i was told while writing this that there is a download using limewire or bitttorrent of a cdrom disk that has all the jeep wrangler parts, repair stuff, etc... on it...

    i don't know if its a bootleg (pirated) copy or not...

    might be worth a look...

    i'm still trying to figure out what size flares i need for mine...

  • today I had it idling and I was going around touching wires and got it to die and throw the "no bus" error. So it seems I have found the trouble area in the wiring. Its where the wires pass over the engine through a plastic railing bolted to the engine parallel to the fuel rail. removed the air intake from the TB and pulled the cover off the plastic railing, it was real dirty inside couldn't find the break though. it started to rain so I had to quit and put everything back in place.

    Before this I was about to give up and go to an auto electrician, but now I have some hope. I'm trying to save $ for school this fall and I'd rather not pay someone to wrap a piece of tape around a wire if I don't have to.

    I will keep posting here and let you all know the final resolution to this problem.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    You're referring to the Factory Service Manual. The CD copies you'll see on Limewire or Bittorrent are pirated copies.

    For the $95.00 or so it costs to buy one, it is well worth it. One repair using it can pay for it. Don't support pirated information.

  • Resolution: The crankshaft position sensor broke off its bracket and the wire had rubbed through. Replaced it this morning and the Jeep seems to be running fine.
  • Greetings-
    Have you ever had a car that you just love, and you know every motor sound, every body moan and groan, and exactly how it handles after years of driving? Then you get a new noise and it drives ya nuts?

    I recently pressure washed my 2004 2.5L 4-cyl engine, and now I get a high pitched whining noise when I hit the gas. The noise is still detectable at idle speeds. All gauges are normal, it runs the same as always, but that noise is driving me insane. is the same I even replaced the serpentine belt just in case.

    Any suggestions for things to check??? Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Take off the new belt and run the engine for a couple of minutes to see if the noise remains. That will ascertain whether or not it's caused by one of the external rotating components.
  • wxyzachwxyzach Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Wrangler.. it has 10,000Ks on it now and i've installed a 4" Skyjacker long arm suspension kit and I have 35" mickey thompson baja claw tyres.. I have had a wheel alignment.. It still pulls to the right when accelerating.. Can anyone help fix this problem?? Cheers, Zach
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    I recently completed a training course on the Rubicon Trail with a 1999 Wrangler TJ provided by the trainer. His website lists the specs as:

    I-6 4.0L fuel injected engine, automatic transmission, 3 speed, 300 transfer case, low range 4:1, axle ratio 4.88:1, BFGoodrich Mud Terrain T/A 35x12.50 R 15, 131:1 / 54:1 crawl ratio.

    The idle speed stayed around 750RPM. At that speed, the Jeep would crawl at a fast walking speed on flat ground when in 4LO and first gear. Going downhill, there would be little engine braking because it would be already going too fast and I had to ride the brakes most of the time. The owner said this is how it was supposed to run, but I have rented Jeep automatics in the past and found they barely creeped in 4LO and low gear and they provided reasonable downhill engine braking.

    The idle is not adjustable, but the specs I have found for the 4.0L engine say 600 RPM +/-70RPM, so 670 should be the upper limit. To me, 750 was too high and was causing my problem. The owner disagrees.

    So, you Jeep automatic owners, what do you think? Is 750RPM too high? Should an auto in 4LO and low gear creep that fast? Shouldn't you be able to go down moderate grades on engine braking alone? Let me hear your take on this.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Are your control arms adjustable? My guess would not be torque steer, but more likely your axles are lined up to go right OR your steering wheel needs to be adjusted to be 'recentered'. THAT is something you can do yourself following the writeup here:

  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    I hit a man-hole cover at low speed, around 30mi and hour, and for a few feet my Jeep seemed like it was way out of alignment, it wobbled badly. It stopped after I drove about 50ft. It does not happen every time I hit a bump but it does happen now and then. Never been off-road and it only has 16,000 miles on it. All required maintenance has been done including tire rotation etc. What could it be? Also when I start slowing to a stop I hear a clicking noise. This does happen often. When you drive a vehicle for a while you get to know what is a normal sound and what isn't. The clicking noise slows as I slow.

    TIA gentlemen.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    For obvious reasons I can only be very non-specific, but you would appear to have a front suspension component that can change position or orientation under a momentary load before returning to it's original configuration.
    It could be an upper or lower knuckle joint, maybe a softening control arm bushing, or possibly one of the many steering joints.

    As for the clicking, it's probably either the brakes or a dry 'U' joint. You have 'U' joints on both the front and rear propeller shafts and the front half shafts.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It kind of sounds like something in the steering geometry came loose. Perhaps check the tie rod ends, track bar ends (especially the axle end). As for the clicking noise, it could possibly be one of the u-joints that goes from the axle shaft to the hub that turns at either front wheel. Mine clicks too, but I have a front auto-locker that I installed a few years ago.

  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Unfortunately I am not mechanically inclined and I have a bad hand. I have not made any modifications to my Jeep. Why would this happen...all of a sudden? Why doesn't this happen with other vehicles? If it happened to mine shouldn't it be a problem with other 06 jeeps or jeeps in general. As I said, I only have 16,000 mi on it and it has been well taken care of. It is just hard to believe that normal driving would cause this problem...not saying it is not the problem. What would make this happen?
    How can I prevent it from happening since I do not abuse my Jeep?
  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Would this be a warranty issue? It seems that Jeeps have a lot of problems that regular vehicles do not have. I am not mechanically inclined and have a bad hand so I cannot do any of the work myself. Thanks for your reply.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    I's start by checking the steering damper. A bad damper will allow your front tires to go into a wobble oscillation when prompted by a bump.
  • burntupburntup Posts: 64
    Your JEEP wants to leave the road. Your JEEP needs to leave the road. Your JEEP was built to go to the dirt. The shaking is much like a delirium tremor that an old alky will experience when deprived of his much needed booze. When your JEEP hits an bump it's off road soul is awakened and the deep seated need for dirt and mud and dust makes it veer towards the green and brown world where it belongs. Take your JEEP to the woods at least once a week and JEEP will serve you well the rest of the week.
  • rebel99rebel99 Posts: 11
    you might have a bent control arm, thats what happened to mine when i hit a ditch and now it veers to the left. my tire and rim and coil and shock and all that stuff is fine but the control arm is bent, thats all.
  • rebel99rebel99 Posts: 11
    i am a commericial fisherman, which means i am away from land for long periods of time. a buddy of mine recomended this shop and i was eager to get a body lift on my wrangler so i said screw it whatever and had them do it. great body lift, everything is awesome, except for some damn reason the 4wd is disconected. i dont know if they didnt reconnect it, or if i need a link extension or what. the lever moves freely, does not lock in anywhere and the dash lights do not come on at all.

    2000 sport 4.0 inline 6 with 3" BL

    any help is greatly appreciated :sick:
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Very plausible there with the bent CA. You should be able to visually inspect to check for this. I wouldn't think a pothole would cause this kind of steering issue, but ya never know.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If you got a BL w/o a motor lift, it may be why. You CAN get a bracket to hook this all in. I believe it is Skyjacker that makes it. OR you could get the motor mount lift and then everything should hook back together just fine. There is a site that has info about a TSB for clanking transfer case linkages, but it shows how it should look as well. You MAY be able to reconnect it. I know many with BL's that haven't done a MML and their 4wd shift lever works fine.

    Maybe that'll help. It is an easy fix...

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It MAY be a warranty issue. Take it in and have them look at it. Even new vehicles can have issues. I had a 2 month old BMW and the computer controlling the dash died at night and I lost all exterior lighting for about 10 minutes (driving thru the desert at night!). It happens.

    But I suspect something is/was loose. If you take it in, tell em it pulls right when driving and have them drive it.

    Perhaps one thing to check - maybe it isn't really pulling and your steering wheel is just off center (usually caused by loose drag link (the bar coming from the steering box down to the passenger side wheel). This would give the appearance of having to 'turn' the wheel back to the left to get it to track straight. If you check that part that has 2 clamps on it (there are 2 - one is the tie rod -going between both wheels, and this one which is up by the frame just under the steering box), and then see if the clamps or that adjusting sleeve is loose, it may be something you can fix yourself easily. I had to recenter my wheel after doing a lift and changing my steering geometry a bit.

    Take a look at this site and near the bottom, you'll see the section on recentering your steering wheel. He says it a lot better than I do. :)

  • skyking49skyking49 Posts: 112
    Apparently mine would fall apart if it left the road :lemon: I have never "abused" my jeep...although taking it off-road could hardly be called abuse for a vehicle designed for it. I have to take it in for an oil change and tire rotation so I will have them take a look at it. As for taking it off-road, there are not many places in CT. where that is allowed unless you join some group and pay fees etc. It is the vehicle I use for work so I cannot beat it up much right now, besides I cannot do any maintenance myself so it would cost me a bundle to keep it up and running. The message about the bent control arm is one reason I am not taking it off-road right now. I do go on some very light weight trails but none that would damage my jeep. When you cannot do the repairs yourself you have to be careful. Thanks for the info though.
  • rebel99rebel99 Posts: 11
    well i looked at that website and checked everything out on my own jeeper. it all corresponds so either ill take it to the dealer where i bought it (but i imagine they'll say no because i put the BL on). if not i can put the little rubber booty on myself, its not such a hassle. and i need to get a link extender to reconnect the whole thing too.
    just wanted to thank you for you help

  • Yep...I had mine back to the dealer after owning it for just 2 weeks. They had to replace the rotors. This problem seems similar to that one except the rotor problem was noticeable when I braked. Yesterday it really vibrated and wobbled after hitting a small bump. I guess it could be a rotor problem again but I don't think so. My jeep only has 16,000 mi. on it. I know nothing about doing repairs myself and have no clue what to look for under my Jeep. The problem might be readily apparent to someone with knowledge of such things.
  • sky,

    I don't know how much air pressure you are running in your tires, but I solved a similar problem by reducing the air pressure from 35 psi to around 28 psi. I have slightly larger than stock tires.

    Since you drive only on good roads, the less pressure probably will not hurt handling and might help reduce the bounce.

    Let them down to 28 psi (use a good gauge) and see if the problem goes away. If for some reason you want more tire pressure, you can then raise it a little at a time until you find the problem coming back.

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I'm curious. Have you noticed any drop in gas mileage since you reduced your tire pressure?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
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