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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)



  • I have a 2004 Wrangler Sahara edition with a 3 inch suspension lift. Ever since the lift was put on 4wd low will not ngage i can pull the lever up as far as it will go and the light will come on but once i release it will go out and it will be in neutral. what do i need to do to fix this?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Suspension lift will not cause that problem generally. Did you do a body lift at the same time? If so, a motor lift would be good, OR you can get longer connectors so your transfer case linkages will reach.

    I believe Skyjackers makes a setup. I have a Tuffy console with more room to lift the cable, but I also did a body AND motor lift so the relative change is minor.

    Again, suspension lifts raise EVERYTHING, so unless your driveshafts are having issues, the suspension lift would not cause it.

  • I believe the bearings are going out of my a/c compressor. I don't have the money to replace the compressor right now. How do I disconnect the compressor so that I can still drive?

    Than you for any advice.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The a/c compressor is effectively in two parts, the compressor itself and the belt driven pulley on the front. The pulley contains an electromagnetic clutch, so that unless an a/c setting is selected on the HVAC controls, the clutch will remain disengaged and the pulley will spin freely without turning the compressor.

    So, the short answer is never to select the a/c position on the controls.
    However, if for some reason you want to bypass the compressor completely you'll need a shorter serpentine belt. If I was doing that I'd start by checking out the belt and routing that's used on the non-a/c equipped '97 with whatever size engine you have. You should also disconnect the electrical connector for the a/c clutch (just follow the wires from the pulley).
  • Thank you for the advice, although, it's possible the noise may not be coming from the a/c compressor at all. I'm lost. There is a whistling noise coming from somewhere. I thought it was the a/c compressor. Maybe it's not. How do I find out exactly where it is coming from without going to a repair shop?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I find it hard to imagine that any reputable repair shop will charge you for lifting the hood and telling you where the whistling noise is coming from.

    Most whistling noises track down to a vacuum leak, though it could also easily be a bearing.

    Take your life in your hands and try a local independent shop. Just ask what the noise might be and what it might cost to fix. If you're really doubtful, ask what they charge for a quick look and listen. I can almost guarantee it won't cost you more than a smile. :)
  • rolfcrolfc Posts: 1
    kategaunt, your problem describes exactly a resolved problem with my '97 sport. It turned out that there was play in the distributor (not the cap) The play affected the timing. For example, when I went up an incline at high speed and gear and hit a small bump the car would "cough" and loose power. I went to the dealer spent about $425 ($200 for the new distributor) and now it runs perfectly (knock on wood). - R
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Are we talking about an electronic whine in the speakers or a high pitched sucking sound? The only sucking sound mine makes is the gas tank draining when running uphill with 33's. :)

    A squeal is likely bearing or other rotational rub (axles perhaps). A high pitched whistle would indicate a vacuum leak like Mac said. There are a LOT of ways to interpret your 'noise'.

    An independent may be able to help and save you lotsa $$. The Jeep is NOT an overly complex vehicle to work on. Even *I* can do it!

  • thepudthepud Posts: 1
    about two weeks ago my wife hit a rather large water puddle on the road in her 2004 jeep wrangler. about ten minutes later the instrument panel dinged and the check gauges light was on. the oil pressure read low (L). since then it would happen when taking off after a short idle. i replaced the oil pump with no avail. any ideas?
  • Every time it rains, my car won't start. I replaced the battery and the starter recently. I know the battery works because the lights/radio/wipers all work fine. As soon as the sun drys the car, it starts and runs fine.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,041
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  • me too.
    If i go through a puddle it takes out my starter. I replaced my first one and 3 months later i need to replace again.
    If i go through a puddle the starter goes.
    Its not like im driving driving through lakes and I thought jeeps can go anywhere?

    I have a 2door 2006 unlimited (long wheel base) manual.

    i love my jeep but this is troubling and expensive.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I've driven my 97 through mud holes a few feet deep, and other than frying my TPS once due to stupidity, I have had ZERO electrical issues.

    I suspect there is something elsewhere in the system that is causing the problem. You sure it isn't the PCM getting hosed and causing problems with the starter?

    There are documents out there to waterproof your electrical. While not necessary, it may be beneficial to look that kind of stuff over to help you look over your electrical to see if you find a weak link in your system. Personally, I'd be checking the wiring setup going into the PCM and the starter. Perhaps mac would have some input as well.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Perhaps mac would have some input as well.

    Only that the post, and the previous one it concurrs with, make no logical sense.
    Wranglers have design flaws that let water leak through the latest hardtops, sometimes through the rear window on previous model hardtops, and QC issues that sometimes allow water around poorly fitted door seals, heater seals, and windshield rubbers. A/C condensate drains have also been known to back up and dump water on the passenger floor.
    However, I know of no issues that prevent starting after a shower (even with a new battery and starter) as in the earlier post, and after driving through a puddle (and with a new starter) as in the last one.

    It's highly unlikely that the battery or either starter was at fault, and that there's more to this than has yet been explained.

    General rule..... throwing parts at a problem rarely benefits anyone except the parts supplier. A logical diagnosis and testing of suspect components should be the first step, even if you have to pay to have it done. Mostly however, you can take a battery, alternator, starter etc., to an auto parts store and have it tested free. You can even take the whole vehicle to AutoZone and have any computer trouble code read free.

    You did ask! ;)
  • Thank you for the information.

    Upon further investigation the problem appears to be the clutch safety switch which my mechaninc has now removed for me. Apparently this can only be repaired by dealer??
    Now, in addition to this being unsafe for someone who may not be aware of the missing safety switch, my clutch "clicks" everytime it engages...

    Ive always had trouble finding a good mechanic but was told that if water gets into the starter it gunks up the starter components.
    One mechanic even told me to spray it with wd-40 after it gets wet.
    This sounds foolish to me since the starter looks to be one of the lowest points.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .......the problem appears to be the clutch safety switch which my mechaninc has now removed for me. Apparently this can only be repaired by dealer??

    The switch will probably have to be ordered from a dealer, but any competent mechanic can replace it.

    As for spraying the starter with WD40 every time it gets wet............. :surprise:
  • Was headlights and taillights, digital lights working but not the dash cluster? This is what my 2004 Wrangler is doing. Need help, shop labor is $95. an hour. Hope to get an answer soon. Thanks, Bill
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    So it's still a problem...

    So what exactly IS working?

    So what exactly is NOT working?

    Your post is a bit confusing (or it's just early still).

  • They might have trouble finding any honestly Satisfied Wrangler Owners.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Not necessarily. Depends on what years we're talking about (YJ, TJ, and JK's are ALL Wranglers).

  • I need to remove the blower motor on my 2002 Wrangler ,but can't seem to find the screws to remove them, it's underneath the glove compartment dash . Any help PLEASE
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    No screws as it has a release tab. Disconnect the wiring harness, operate the release tab, then rotate the motor assembly counter clockwise and withdraw it from the HVAC unit. Reverse the process to install.

    Earlier models are bolted in and are removed from the engine side of the firewall after removing the battery.
  • tyoshutyoshu Posts: 31
    I have a 06 Rubicon and it decided not to start after I got to work today. I have lights on the dashboard and I hear one click when I turn the ignition key after that I hear what sounds like something else trying to engage like maybe the solinoid. Another issue I see when I open the drivers door the speed and rpm gauges on the dash start to jump or pulse. I disconnected the battery and then reconnected it to see if it was just a loose connected and I also banged on the started but neither solved the problem. Any ideas what could be the problem?
  • Sounds stupid, but it is time for my 04 to have a tune-up (actually WAY over due) but I cannot find the plugs and wirings. I try to find a repair manual but 04 info is tough to find. Thanks
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    On the 4.0L 6–cylinder engine the spark plugs are located below the coil rail assembly.

    (1) Prior to removing the spark plug, spray compressed air around the spark plug hole and the area around the spark plug. This will help prevent foreign material from entering the combustion chamber.
    (2) Remove the spark plug using a quality socket with a rubber or foam insert.
    (3) Inspect the spark plug condition to make sure they are burning/wearing properly.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Paul is quite correct, but I think you need a step by step article with pictures.

    The plugs are hidden under this coil rail:


    and there's lots of pictures and instructions here:

    R & R Wrangler Coil Rail
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    My lowly 97 2.5L doesn't have no stinkin' rail. I have 4 wires and a distributor. Makes it easy. :)

  • I have an 06 wrangler X and my clutch clicks when it engages but not all the time, more often when I first start driving. I thought it was due to some cheap plastic part.
  • i have an 02 wrangler with a 4.0,i had a light that came on on instrument panel that said check gauges,took it to be diagnosed at auto parts...said the alternator was bad,put a new one on..same problem....i also replaced the battery,checked and cleaned battery connections,still same problem...any ideas
  • try oil pressure switch which is located almost right above the oil pump i think it has one maybe 2 wires coming from it costs about 30 bucks
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