Isuzu Trooper TOD and 4WD Problems
boottmills
Member Posts: 2
in Isuzu
I was wondering if anyone else is having issues with their Torque on Demand systems going into 4WD. The 4WD does not engage at all and the TOD display on my dash blinks at me for about 60 seconds and then the red "CHECK" light starts flashing at me. I know nothing about the TOD system and the 4WD does not engage into 4LOW when I do it manually either...any ideas?
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Comments
Are you referring to the actuator inside the T case, or one of the sensors on the outside of the T case, etc.
Any way, best new parts source I know of is Jerry at jlemond@bellsouth.net. A dealer with free shipping and good prices online is St. Charles Isuzu. Ask for Merlin there, although any parts guy will help you. They ship from the distributor and it is fast. I have used both. I think you will have a tough time finding new at better prices, and used are tough unless you live near a parts yard, etc.
Good luck.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
2001 Trooper, bought new, 60,000 miles. Always maintained.
Where exactly is the actuator for the 4wd? My 2001 Trooper will not go into 4wd, but I can hear the mechanism "trying" to engage when I push the dash button. (Light flashes, does not go on full-time.)
At city speed, if I press the dash 4WD button I can hear a slight "cli-click" from front axle area. SOMETHING seems to engage slightly, because I can hear a very slight whine and the engine feels like its under a tiny bit extra load, but the 4WD light on the dash never goes on full, it just blinks. Then, when I hit the dash switch again to "disengage" , I hear a slightly different sounding "click clunk" and the dash 4WD indicator stops flashing and goes out.
Is this a vacuum actuator issue, or could it be the little "fork" just inside the end of the axle that engages the front axle is not sliding properly?
If you can point me to any good repair instructions, that would be great!
Wes
When you press 4 wheel on the dash, a solinoid is sent a signal that changes the vac preasure at the front axle, which locks the front wheels to the shaft. It then puts the computer in motion to look at signals from the various sensors to apply the clutch in the transfer case to add power to the front wheels when they begin to spin. It uses a speed sensor at the output shaft of each side to indicate what is happening. If one of those sensors goes out, then the computer can't calculate when to engage the clutch and will begin by the TOD not starting at all. It is possible that the computer got confused and needs to be rebooted by clearing the code, or removing the battery cable for 30 min. If the system does not work still, it will eventually go into check mode and they system will stop functioning all together. This is also the case when some people have it get stuck in locked mode, then turn it off. Signals are wrong to the computer, so it quits. Same with the clutch. But most of the time, it seems that the speed sensors on the output shafts are the failure point, which is hard to believe somthing so solid state would go out. Bad design, just as the piston rings, but that is another story.
I wanted 4 wheel, but TOD was just cutsy to engage when there is a little snow or ice on the ground and you want the front wheels to kick only when the back start to spin. So, you decide if you want to pay over a grand for cutsy or just bypass the computer and engage it when you want 4 high. Just have to be careful on dry roads with it.
Google an article on planetisuzu for converting to lock 4 wheel. When my sensors went out, I bypassed the system to lock the clutch in when I put it in 4 wheel drive. Loved the TOD, but for a weekend and $20 in parts, I am happy to have 4 high with it locked in as opposed to $1300 and it could go again by bad design.
12 - Normal Operation
13 - Reference Circuit Shorted To Ground
14 - Front Speed Sensor Open Or Shorted
15 - Reference Circuit Shorted To Power
16 - Front Speed Sensor Has No Running Speed Puls
21 - TP Sensor Has Faulty Voltage, Shorted Or Open
23 - ECU Failure
24 - Rear Speed Sensor Open Or Shorted
26 - Electromagnetic Coil Shorted To Ground
27 - Front Or Rear Speed Sensor Has No Pulse
28 - Axle Disconnect Output & Axle Switch Output Abnormal
31 - Electromagnetic Coil Disconnected Or Shorted
32 - Axle Disconnect Output Shorted Or Disconnected
33 - Axle Disconnect Output Circuit Shorted To Ground
36, 37, 38 - ECU Failure
So, now that you have read the code, let's get back to resetting the TOD ECU. Begin by turning the ignition back off, then shift the 4WD Transfer Lever (HI to LOW selector beside the auto tranny stick) to the neutral position. Ground terminal #8 again of the diagnostic link connector. Turn the ignition back ON and depress the brake pedal 5 times WITHIN 5 seconds. The TOD indicator will display the 4L indication (all front and rear indicators are illuminated) each time the brake pedal is pushed. If you don't see this happen, then you are not properly grounding the #8 pin connector or are not in the neutral position with the 4WD HI/LOW selector. When properly performed, this will reset the TOD ECU. A confirmation is provided by displaying only the normal check (DCT 12) indication. So, based on the codes above, this is not completely "impossible to diagnose yourself" as stated in the earlier post. In my opinion, the front and rear speed sensors probably should be changed at the same time since they are wired together inside the same terminal connector block (M-27) which is located on top of the transfer case and a real pain to get to. Note that if only one or both of your speed sensors are bad, you will always have 4WD LOW range, which bypasses the TOD ECU slippage/speed calcs, and transfers 50/50 torque between front and rear wheels.
When this happened to me (flashing check light), I verified all of the above, confirmed I had full time 4-wheel low (when transfer case in LOW speed), and verified I had minimal clutch output to the front axles (with TOD in 4WD AUTO). With the faulty speed sensor, I could not get full torque in HI, but a little extra pull was better than nothing at all.
By the way, disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes does nothing to reset the TOD ECU but will reset the actual engine computer (ECU or ECM in some references, plus loses all of your radio stations... LOL).
THANK YOU for your detailed message! It makes me a bit peeved at Little Mr. Isuzu and his weak mechanisms... anyhow.
Do ALL Trooper 4x4 have Torque on Demand? I was reading about it in the manual, and although I have shift on the fly 4x4 (dash switch) I don't think mine is equipped with TOD. Would this eliminate the issue of speed sensors if I do NOT have TOD?
Wes
At idle I can hear a 'ca-clunk' when I press the dash switch for 4x4...the icon blinks but it does NOT engage. If I engage the 4x4 switch in the morning after the vehicle has been sitting all night, the 4x4 MIGHT engage and operate normally. Now and then I can get it to engage when I press the 4x4 switch with the engine OFF and then starting it. When the front axle DOES decide to engage, it runs fine...no strange noises, no clunks, so I feel pretty sure it's ENGAGEMENT system is not working right...
ANY THOUGHTS???
Best of good fortune in 09!
Thanks,
sparky39
Could this be a vacuum problem? Others have said there is a breather on the transfer case, and that if the diff lock comes on while driving it could be the breather is blocked, causing some sort of pressure or vacuum inside the diff that activated the diff lock. The guy at the trans shop is puzzled, he thinks it is something electrical, perhaps a feedback sensor that passes through the trans that is telling the computer the rears are slipping and to go into full 4WD.
Any help is appreciated.
When I push the Torque on Demand button on the dash of my 2000 Trouper instead of the display going to Auto and everything turning green, I get a red error where it usually would show Auto.
Does anyone have any thoughts as to what is no working correctly? and hopefully it won't cost a fortune to repair the problem.
Thanks for any of your help.
Popz
Oh yeah -- about three months ago, the transmission died (no second gear) and I had a used one put in. This happened out on the boonies and the transmission mech said he couldn't get rebuilds, so to go with the used one. It's been a little cranky about shifting into Park ever since. Maybe something wasn't installed as tight as it should have been? Thanks for any advice.
Bought a shop manual on CD.
Shorted pin 8 on C-63 to ground and generated aforementioned trouble codes. Presumably, the code 13 (reference short circuited to ground) is causing the other 2 speed sensor codes.
Per shop manual, pin 15 on the TOD Control Unit is connected to pin F-11 on the Powertrain Control Module through connectors B-49, H-12 and H-57 respectively. Disconnected wiring harness from TOD control unit and read direct short to ground on pin 15 of plug B-49. Went to pin F11 of connector E-54 on the Powertrain Control Module and read no continuity to pin 15/B-49 or short to ground. I did have continuity between F11/E-54 to pin 16 on what I believe to be connector H-57. The connector between H-57 and B-49 is H-12.
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE H-12 IS LOCATED? I have practically torn the car apart looking for this connector. The parts location page in the manual is of little or no help. I am ready to rig a jumper/bypass wire from pin 15/B-49 to pin 16/H-57 and hope for the best. All suggestion are welcome.
p.s. I have just replaced the second transmission in two years. I am presuming that someone pinched a wire during the process causing the TOD short circuit issue.
the Auto switch does nothing. If you have the 4wd shifter in 4 wheel high truck drives fine. Can't get it to shift into 4 wheel low but if you put the shiter into Neutral (I assunme this is correct) the truck is literally in neutral no matter what gear the column shifter is set for. I am about to lose my mind with this thing... Can any one help me with this? Could it be the TOD ESM? The speed sensor I read about? Also the ABS light is lit, could that have any significance?
the Auto switch does nothing. If you have the 4wd shifter in 4 wheel high truck drives fine. Can't get it to shift into 4 wheel low but if you put the shiter into Neutral (I assunme this is correct) the truck is literally in neutral no matter what gear the column shifter is set for. I am about to lose my mind with this thing... Can any one help me with this? Could it be the TOD ESM? The speed sensor I read about? Also the ABS light is lit, could that have any significance?
I have a 1999 Acura Trooper, I mean Isuzu SLX, no Acura SLX yeah that's it Acura Slx that I am have problems with the TOD/AWD system. The first thing is when it is in 2wd the rear wheels on the TOD display blink instead of being permanently lit all the time. then after driving for a few minutes the red check light starts flashing. When you hit the TOD button the auto light and the front wheels light up on the display and the check light goes off. Then the second thing is when you engage the AWD and drive for a few minutes you feel a clunk and the AWD dis-engages and the light on the front wheels of the display go out and the auto light starts flashing and the check light goes on. If you stop the car the AWD will engage again for a few minutes then you feel that clunk again and it dis-engages again. Does anyone know what is going on here and can help me with this problem. WInter is almost here and I basically have a 2WD car now.
Thanks,
Bill
there was an internet article on how to remove and clean and reassemble.
Thanks much.