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Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks



  • hudraheadhudrahead Posts: 169
    newbuyer: A stuck tstat would be the most logical (and least expensive)place to start as that is pretty common. . A clogged heater core IS a possibility but @ "only" 65K miles on the car not very likely. Look @ the coolant, Is it clean or have any evidence of rust ? Since you probably don't know for sure if the system has ever been flushed it might be a good time to do so. It is possible to get a "air lock" in the heater core which prevents coolant from flowing through. A drain and flush not done properly can cause a air lock situation.

    Another tip off that you may have a stuck thermostat is poor gas mileage. The computer may think the car is not warmed up and will cause it to run rich. If operating properly you should get plenty of heat.

    HUD :):)
  • Thanks all for your advisements. I appreciate them very much. To tell the truth I only bought the car about two months ago if that just for driving in the snow because the Mustang is my #1.
    I have driven the car all this week cause of the Mustang being out of commision and I still have not evre gooten any heat. The heater only "begins" to give a "trace" of warm air after I am already home. I only drove the car before this about 4 times really since I bought it, cause Iam always in the Mustang. My brother has taken it out sometimes and confirms the same problem as me. The temp gauge reads not on "dead cold' almost to halfway, after I am about halway into my to-from work commute almost exactly 10 miles. I get about 180 miles on a tank of regular gas. I have never owned a Hyundai before or any other small car with a baby engine so I have nothing to compare too. I buy only regular gas in this car and get 180 on a tank but it only costs $10 or $11 dollars. So to me that is outstanding considering my usual car gas bills even being premium. Does that sound too low mileage for a tank of reg. gas in this car?
    What id the usual for you others on yours?
    Also, as I said I bought it used real cheap it has 85K maybe it could be because of the high miles, these cars tend to have more problems? It is 98. I will take it back to the dealer now and have the t-stat checked out and tell them the problem. I will first check the fluids per your advisements to see what's going on here. I thought it might just be cause the cars are so cheap they just have nothing by way of options etc, so I thought ok, but did think in the back of my mind it should have a decent heater. I am towing out my Mustang in the am to have it checked out and hoping until I have the Hyundai checked out I can put it back on the road so I can actually get to work with heat and not be
    shaking and freezing the whole way, that has sucked very much. Talk yo ya later and pleaase do let me know what you think, especially about the gas mileage if it does not sound right because maybe I hae another problem to look into.
  • hudraheadhudrahead Posts: 169
    newbuyer: Miles to a tankfull based on "a tank full" is not very accurate. What you need to do is fill the tank, don't overfill, just fill to the auto pump cuts off, set your trip odometer and record how far you actually drove until you fill again. Over three or four fillups you then will be able to figure your actual MPG. I would think that even allowing for winter driving you should get at least in the high 20 mpg range. Much less than that could indicate a problem somewhere.

    HUD :):)
  • Thanks for the tips. The coolant is fine, no rust or other particles. I got my Mustang fixed and have been driving it now, a minor problem with a hose. It is so cold here now I will leave the Hyundai sit for a while until I get a chance to take it to the dealer, probably is the t-stat then. I will find out soon. I will try the gas mileage tip too, problem is I just don't drive it enough I suppose to find out the actual mpg then. Since I drove this week I have not used a whole tank of gas it still looks as though 180 miles will be on this tank.
  • I have an Hyundai Accent GT 03, recently changed plugs at 15,500, along with air filter and lof, yesterday started the car for first time in 2 day lay over heard a popping sound from under the hood engine lite came on, I shut off car waited a min. or 2 and restarted got same noise, went to mechanic who did plugs he said it could be gas cap, I had already checked that could it be the plugs he said no car is under warranty bring it to dealer, he refused to check under the hood at all because its under warranty which is true but i believe that if a plug blew thats not under warranty and not only would i have paid this guy but now id be paying the dealership to check out what this guy should do anyway, work was done about 3 weeks ago, I called the dealer who told me sometimes the lite takes 3-4 days to go off and it was okay to drive the car as of last nite the lite was still on im not feeling and major bucking i have 4 cylinders can anyone tell me if i lost power to a plug wouldnt i feel some kind of a difference can this just be the o2 sensor, since having started the car for a total of 4 times yesterday i havent heard the noise again thanks for any help im a woman and we all know what a mechanic can do to woman lol !!!!!!!!
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    It sounds to me the mechanic caused the problem. The popping noise could be caused by a spark arcing out from a tear in the spark plug wires and this action will cause a misfire and thus turn on the check engine light. Spark plug wires are fragile and if they aren't pulled off the plugs properly, they can tear or crack, allowing a means for the spark to find an exit before getting to the plug. If the spark plug wire is damaged only slightly, it might not manifest itself again until you encounter wet weather (you will then feel a hesitation when accelerating). It's also possible the wires weren't seated completely over the plugs and now that the engine has warmed up numerous times, it may have allowed the rubber to seal and you won't encounter the problem again. Either way, you are covered under warranty so you have nothing to lose by taking it in and having the code pulled. Don't tell them you had someone else change the plugs. What they don't know won't hurt them. Good luck in getting the problem fixed!

    I have to ask though...why did you have the plugs changed so early? They aren't scheduled to be changed until 30k. And in all honesty, they can run 60k with no problems.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    you win the prize for run on sentence. I have to admit... I've never seen a 246 word sentence. ;-)
  • First, wow Smokey you actually counted the words?! Bless you, you have much more free time than I do. Question, looking for Intonge the man to see for an advisement. I am thinking about selling my Mustang and driving the Hyundai as my only car. I bought it used a few months back it now has 86,000 miles. I bought it from a reputable dealer but wonder if it's a mistake. It is a 98 accent. How long will these cars go? Would I be able to go to mid 100,000 on this car or have a better chance of winning the lottery? Thanks.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    I have no doubt the Accent can handle 150k. The car is very simple in design and the engine is durable. The Accent's main flaw is it's weak automatic tranny, so if you have a 5 speed you don't need to worry about that. There was a guy in this forum who last reported his trouble free 95 Accent had 158k. He was so pleased with the car's reliable nature, he bought an 02 Elantra and kept the Accent as a side car. Someone else reported he was happy with his 99 Accent GL, with the only failures being the alternator at 65k and the auto tranny at 97k (tranny was replaced free under warranty!). As long as your car starts right up, drives good, and doesn't burn any oil, you shouldn't have any problems with it. Just make sure the timing belt has been changed at the recommended 60k intervals. The only wear items you may run into is the alternator, radiator and water pump. Otherwise, it should just be tires and brakes.
  • Ingtonge18, lights off, car is purring, have no clue what it was, car must have been having a bad day I had plugs checked theyre fine, and I changed them at 15 going by the book thats the recommendation
    ps to Smokey75 sorry this sentence isnt as long as last but its late and Im tired Ill try again next time lol
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    Are you absolutely certain the manual said that? Mine said replace at 30k per normal schedule. There is no reason for you to replace plugs every 15k. Seriously, save your money because you are simply throwing it out the window with no benefit to your car. There is no car manufactured today that require those kind of spark plug change intervals.
  • Apoligize for delaid response. Im learning how to make sentences lol. The manual does state changing plugs at 15, I couldnt believe it myself the mechanic said same thing, so he looked in the book and there it was! Thats in the past whats done is done the money is out the window lol, no more check engine, so on to new problem. I went to gas station for a fill (I was at 1/4), tank normally takes $12 at that point, it took $7 and the pump clicked off, gauge read 3/4. Im in believe that it is the pump and nothing to do with the tank. It's just ironic how little things are popping up since the plug change or it could just be that I subconciously don't like this car lol. The true fact though is that my gas mileage has gone out the window (with the $)Ive gone from 31 pmg to 26 mpg and am very consistant on my driving. When I went to fill from 1/4 the pump shut off at 3/4 and no more would fit. What else is going out this window? (this car lol) Is there a patern her or is this one of the Hyundai Lemons?
  • Per my previous post about the heater on the 98 Accent, I am finally going to take it back to the dealer on Monday. I had my brother look at it on Friday as we had snow, sleet, and freezing rain. I had to borrow a car cause my two did not drive and was real late for work, nice. The Accent windshield wipers went out, my brother fixed it said it was a fuse but said he looked at the heater problem. I know nothing about cars but he said something about having two fans for the heater but one is dead in the water which is causing my problem, probable the mention of heater core as before. Now, I bought it used but did get a six month or 6,000 mile limited warranty with the car. Warranty does not state specifically about the heating unit but says like components such as defrost, etc things for the back windshield wiper and issues regarding the heater. Does it sound like this could be covered by the warranty. The warranty I got was that I pay $100 and the rest is covered. If not how much would you suppose, I'll take any estimate or best guess would it cost to fix this problem? Thanks for any advisements.
  • tmangtmang Posts: 1
    I bought the Canadian Version of the 2003 Hyundai Accent GT (the GSI) in May 2003. Where I am in Canada the temp ranges from approximately -40F(-32C) to 90F(36C).

    There is a huge mpg difference from the summer to winter. I notice gas consumption the most below -15C. In canada fuel is also volume corrected to a temp. of -15C. So when it is colder than -15C as soon as the gas leaves the pump, we lose volume. This could possibly be part of your gas tank problem (probably not a 1/4 tank worth though). Most likely the neck on the tank is narrow, so if the pump is pushing a lot of fuel the autofill may kick out before the tank is full.

    Now to engine lights and spark plugs. My engine light has come on 3 times this winter. Mind you we had temps below -32C and in one case when it warmed up the light went out. I did however have the car in twice, and after running diagnostics the fist time the spark plugs were misfiring, and second time the EFI valve was stuck open. My spark plugs were replaced after the misfiring, and this my car had 8000K at the time. The car currently has under 9000K.

    I also had a problem with the clutch (manual tranny), where the master is on bypass, for which the service dept believes there should be a recall (8500K). If anyone has an issue with the clutch engaging, get it in right away. If it ends up on bypass, and you keep driving it, you'll be replacing your clutch.

    I also had a windshield wiper problem, the motor needed replacement(4000K). I thought I had a leaky sunroof(2500K), but it turned out to be that condensation was collecting when i had it open, and then closing it, pooled the condensation to the rubber gasket, which would then leak off. Leak tests proved no leaks.

    The dealer I bought the car from offers a $900Cdn ((~$575USD), which covers everything but fuel and tires for their hyundai's, subaru's, and suzuki's. I bought the Service agreement for my 2003 Subaru Forester X, but skipped it for my Hyundai Accent. So far I haven't paid for any repairs. Funny, the forester hasn't had a single service issue.

    Even though I have listed a bunch of things here, I am very happy so far with the car. My concern was that without an engine diagnostics tool, I would not have been able to find these problems myself.
  • baberbaber Posts: 96
    Just hit 123K on my 99 Accent GL Sedan. The last real problem I had was the O2 sensor died at 112K miles. The auto trans replaced under warranty at 97K is still runnung fine. Car still looks and runs great. The only rust is on the windshield wipers. All I need now is a third set of new tires. Been very happy with this car. The biggest problem has been the Auto trans.

  • I'm due soon for my 60,000 mile maintenance. The list that the dealer provided me states I must have my timing belt changed at a cost of $350. The warranty states that the timing belt is covered under the powertrain warranty so I'm wondering why I have to pay to have it replaced as a part of the maintenance. Is my dealer trying to rip me off??
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273

    DON'T go by what the dealer tells you! I JUST went through this with a friend of mine who brought her Hyundai 300 XG or whatever it's called, in for the 30,000 mile service. I told her to go by the book and not to give the dealer "carte blanche" to do what HE thought should be done for the 30,000 mile check-up. Did she listen to me? NO! $400.00+ dollars later she was complaining. I just laughed. She knows that I know SOMETHING about cars, but she did it her way and paid through the nose!

    GO BY THE WARRANTY BOOK!!!!! You don't think the dealer makes money SELLING you the car do you? Unless, of course, you pay those ridiculous DOC fees that so many dealers have PRE-PRINTED on their sales forms! They make mucho $$$$$$ doing things like the above!

  • thanks for the response. The warranty book lists what is covered but does not say anything about what is required maintenance. My owners manual lists the maintenance and does show an R for timing belt at 60,000 with a note that it is only recommended in California, not required. I live in Pa so I assume that it's required for me. But, of course the book doesn't show any prices so one could think that it will be replaced for free since it's covered under the warranty although I'm not that dumb. If it's a warranted part, do I just demand that they replace it free of charge? It's kind of a catch 22...if I don't replace it and pay for the replacement then they can say my warranty is void even though it's supposed to be a covered item. At closer look, perhaps the Hyundai warranty is not as good as everyone thinks.
    thanks for your advise.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273

    Sorry for the error. I did mean the owner's manual with the maintenance charts. Your best bet would be to go into a Hyundai TH topic here and ask there. Maybe someone there will have a definitive answer for you. I guess if it says that it has to be replaced, it has to be replaced or the warranty will be voided? I see what you mean by the confusion.

    Good luck. Wish I could be of more help.

  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I just took a peek at Hyundai's website and the maintenance schedule for the Accent. Maybe it's just the way I'm reading it, but it looks like to me that the timing belt is marked with an R* at 60,000 miles or 48 months. R = replace. The footnote reads: FOR CALIFORNIA, THIS MAINTENANCE IS RECOMMENDED, BUT NOT REQUIRED. I'm interpreting this to mean that the CA gets a longer replacement period than the other 49 states.

    Why would you need to replace it? Well, it's like any other required replacement part...if you don't do the maintenance, they don't have to cover it under warranty. In other words, if you never replaced the spark plugs and the engine won't start one day, the dealer may not cover you under the warranty.

    Finally, you need to research if the Accent's engine is an interference engine. By this I mean if the timing belt breaks and the overhead valves stop moving, will the pistons hit the valves? If the answer is "yes," then a broken timing belt becomes a much larger and more expensive repair issue. Others here will know the answer to that question. If the original belt breaks after 60K miles, I doubt that they will cover the belt or an secondary engine damage. Just my opinion...YMMV.

    BTW...I don't think you can demand they do the belt replacement maintenance for free (unless you are getting all your oil changes, filters, etc for free, also). None of those have prices in the owner's literature, either.
  • boltguyboltguy Posts: 94
    I have dealt with exactly the same issue with my girlfriend's 01 Elantra. It says the timing belt is warranteed for 100,000 miles, yet the maintenance schedule has an R* next to the timing belt at 60K. My 03 Santa Fe's maintenance schedule has been revised to "replace timing belt at 60K" with no extra powertrain warranty on it. We decided to replace it at 60K on her Elantra to avoid any future powertrain warranty issues.

    If you can have a knowledgeable, trusted mechanic inspect the timing belt, he/she could give you an estimate as to how long it will last. From what I've read on the internet, later model Hyundais timing belts have lasted around 80-90K. Whether you want to chance that is up to you.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    $350 is well within regular guidelines for the expense of replacing the timing belt. The timing belt is only covered under warranty up to 60k. If it breaks before that, then it would be replaced free of charge under warranty. If it breaks after 60k, its your repair bill. Replacing it as preventative maintenance is just like replacing your fuel filter, air filter, and spark plugs at the recommended intervals. Do you think they should give you those free too? So, to answer your question...No, the dealer isn't trying to rip you off.

    As for the warranty holes, look at it this way: How many other companies would have replaced the auto tranny for the guy in message #1117? The warranty isn't perfect but it covers big ticket items that few were willing to cover until just recently. You have to expect to pay for maintenance on your car. Don't get maintenance confused with warranty.
  • Hi, It's my first time on the messages boards and my old 89 Mazda just died on me and I am considering a 2002 Hyundai. It's got 25,000miles on the clock and seller is asking just $5,000. It sounds like they are pretty reliable and that manufacturer's warranty is transferable. Is this correct?

    Any advice would be much appreciated (I'm a poor grad student so a car that is gonna last for 4-5years without major work is vital right now)
  • The bumper-to-bumper (5/50k) IS transferrable to you; however the balance of the 10/100k powertrain warranty vaporizes. However, Accents are simple little cars, so they shouldn't cost too much to keep running if something breaks after that. Beyond that...well, who knows? Depends on hwo well the car was cared for.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    If the car was well cared for and never wrecked, grab it! $5k for a 2002 car with 25,000 miles is a good deal. The Accent is a very reliable car and the 5 year/60k warranty is fully transferable to you. That should give you some piece of mind while you are in college. I recently drove my old 2000 Accent (sold it to my friend) and it now has 43k and runs just like it did when I bought it new. The only thing it has needed since I sold it at 25k was a new battery at 38k and new front brake pads at 43k. It still feels solid and rattle free. I think the Accent is a great little basic transportation car.
  • ken127ken127 Posts: 5
    I changed the timing belt last week @ 69K along with a tuneup. The car was running fine and getting 39mPG. I've read the previous letters about the timing belt changes. The car started running rough within the first day of leaving the dealer, I brought it back and they said an engine sensor controlling the firing of spark was bad and they changed the spark plug wires (this maybe helped a little). I'm to bring the car back Tuesday to check the belt again but also to put in a $300 sensor. Can the belt be off 1 tooth and still run? I just don't feel good about this whole thing. Any thoughts?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Posts: 2,228
    It is possible for the engine to run with the timing belt off slightly. It will run rough and it may have less power. If they are claiming its the coil pack though, that is highly possible. It will cause the engine to run rough too. But definitely make sure the timing is correct.
  • ken127ken127 Posts: 5
    I brought the 02 accenct back to the dealer to have the timing belt checked and a engine sensor put in if needed. I asked at least 3 times to check the belt first. They put the sensor in first and the car still ran rough. They asked what kind of gas I used and I asked them if they checked the belt. The belt wasn't checked and they went back to look at it. It was off 5 TEETH. At 7 teeth there would be engine damage. I still had to discuss the cost of the $300 sensor they put in. They finaly agreed to eat the cost of the sensor and labor. I'm glad the mechanic was honest.
  • kagedudekagedude Posts: 407
    Ken... I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent GL 5spd and its almost 1.75 years old with 47K miles. Aside from changing the oil every 5K miles, I haven't done any maintenance yet. I see you did your timing belt at 69K and a tuneup. Was that the first tuneup or did you have one at an earlier interval? My Accent is still running/starting smooth so I don't feel the need to maintain something that is not a problem at this stage. Thanks.
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