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Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks



  • bb466bb466 Posts: 1
    I own a 2003 Hyundai Accent GL hatchback. Car has 34000 miles. As of late (past week or so), I've noticed that my brakes seem to make a soft squealing sound when I release the brake pedal. The squealing doesn't occur when I depress the pedal and the functioning of the brakes seems very normal. The car's brakes were looked at about a month ago as part of a 30000 mile checkup and were normal. The car recently made a trip across the country. Any ideas? Thank you.
  • vthuppilvthuppil Posts: 16
    I had the same problem with mine ( a 2000 model) a few weeks ago. It could be your brake pads are wearing out. Mine started out the same way, a soft squealing sound when the pedal was depressed. Then the soft squealing sound came when the brakes were pressed. Then the squealing continued no matter when, as long as the tires were rotating. That's when I checked it out and replaced my pads or rotors. If your car has 34,000 miles on it, and you've never changed the pads before, it could be quite likely your pads need changing now. Get it looked at. If you let the squealing continue for too long, you risk damaging your rotors which are much more expensive to fix.
  • kellisuekellisue Posts: 4
    I am desperate for help about my Hyundai. Im in Australia and here they call it a Hyundai Excel but I believe its the same as a Hyundai Accent elsewhere in the world. Its a 98 model, twin cam engine, automatic.

    This car has decided to start stressing me out at a time when I least need it - I am expecting a baby in 8 days!

    About 3 weeks ago, it decided to cut out as I was approaching traffic lights (had only been driven for 5 mins so couldnt have been overheating). The car since new has never broken down on me! After about 15 minutes, the car started again and was fine. It started fine every time after that too. I took it to a local (apparently) very reputable big name mechanics chain and asked for a major service & tune up (it needed it anyway) and told them what happened at the traffic lights. They carried out service/tune ($300 AUD) and found nothing else wrong with it. Claimed it must have been due to "dirt on the spark plugs".

    Two days later, after several trips in it later with it driving beautifully, I go to leave the hospital after my hour long appointment and it wont start. Cranks over, but wont start. Again after 15-20 mins, it starts perfectly. I take it back to the mechanics and tell them what happened. They feel bad, knowing my condition, that it broke down on me. After 2 days, they diagnose a worn out fuel pump, saying it was seizing and causing this "intermittent" starting problem. So I give them another $400 and tell them the car must be bomb proof as Im 8 months pregnant. They assure me that was the problem.

    One week later, and several no problem car trips later, I take a short 5 minute drive from home to get take away. Get in car after collecting food, it wont start, just cranks over. Once again, 15 - 20 mins later it started. I cried for the rest of the weekend :( I couldnt believe this was happening.

    Took it back to the mechanics again quite angry. THEY ARE HOPELESS. I tell them i dont want it back until its FIXED. They have the car for a whole week. I hear nothing. At the end of the week and feeling ignored, I call them and they tell me car is running perfectly. "we cant get it to stop or stall, nothing wrong with it". Say they have checked it over, hooked it up to their computer, nothing wrong. Well here i am thinking, if they cant fix it WHO CAN? I tell them I will come and get it but demand a refund of $400 for the fuel pump that obviously had nothing to do with the problem. They agreed on this straight away - in fact too easily.

    Now I am to collect the car on Monday, I am due to give birth in 8 days and I have a car i dont trust and could leave me stranded at any time. I dont trust these mechnics. Theyve had 3 chances to fix it. Ive had enough of them.

    As the problem is so unpredictable and so intermittent, I am now thinking it may be a loose wire/connection or one of these "sensors" i see people referring to on here. Its obviously an electrical problem. Agree? Can anyone PLEASE lead me in the right direction as to what may be causing my car to refuse to start like this when it appears to be mechanically A1???

    Im losing sleep because of this.

  • phillbillphillbill Posts: 93
    Speaking of sensors....could be a dirty lambda sensor, the one that's screwed into your exhaust manifold.
    If it is that, it'd need cleaning with a cloth soaked in petrol.

    Or it could be that your engine idle speed is set too low, since it's staulling in traffic jams when the engine's just idling. Your trusty mechanic may be able to help you with this one...

    Did the mechanic change your spark plug leads? If the carbon inside is cracked then that'd cause a problem.

    Hope that's some help...if not, i'd advise you get a friend / family member to drive you to the hospital on the big day
  • Hi phillbill,

    Yes the mechanic replaced the spark plugs and leads when he did the major service/tune up so that can be ruled out.

    My partner is collecting the car tonight & he will look at the things you suggested. Is there a diagram somewhere on the internet to show us where exactly the lambada sensor is located? Are there any other sensors that you would suggest he check out?

    I will also get him to check the engine idle speed although would this be causing it to not start at all from scratch (but just crank over) after short trips? (which is has now done on two ocassions).

  • Has your car battery been changed recently? they generally have a life of 4-5 years before they lose their power. This may be a reason why the car won't start, expecially if you have to wait for the engine bay to cool down....

    If your partner knows anything about cars he should be able to find the lambda's somthing screwed into the exhaust manifolt with a wyre coming off it, which eventually leads into the ECU.

    Maybe it's more than one problem, like the idle speed would cause it to staull and then a worn battery would make it difficult to start up again.

    Try the sensor comin off the air filter box. i know when my friend put a 'performance' filter on his car, it didnt have anywhere for one of the plugs to go (which would normally clip into the side of the filter box), and since then it's idle speed has been very eratic.
  • Hi again phillbill,

    The battery was replaced about 2 years ago and the car has done less then 15,000 kms since then. Mechanic said he tested battery and alternator anyway and said both were fine.

    As planned we collected car tonight, it started 1st go & drove home perfectly (typically!).

    We will check out the lambada sensor this weekend. Is it easy to take off for cleaning?

    I dont think its the idle speed or anything to do with the temperature as the two times it wouldnt start (only stalled the one time), the first time, it had been sitting there for an hour while I had my appointment (ample time to cool down) (no stalling) and the second time, a 3 min trip to the local take away and then after 15 mins of waiting for food, wouldnt start. Not enough time for it to even warm up!

    Its very strange this whole ordeal. Im terrified to go anywhere in the damn thing!


    P.S. When my partner collected car tonight, he questioned the mechanic who "claimed" to have checked all the sensors and the relays. Im wondering how well they really checked them???!!
  • gplaggegplagge Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Accent 3 door. After my last oil change, the turn signals work intermittantly, and also my high beams, and they are mostly not working. I've checked fuses, etc. and looked for obvious loose wires.
    Anywhere I should be looking??


  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    Have your throttle body cleaned or do it yourself. Use injector cleaner. Add it to the gas tank (Techron).
  • I went to look in to changing them myself, but after looking at the diagram in the manual, and then at the engine, I could not find them. Obviously I'm not very mechanically inclined!!! HELP!!!
  • neo128neo128 Posts: 1
    Help, I have a 2001 accent 1.5 L 5 spd for the last few weeks i have to start it 3 times, before it runs good. The firts time it chokes the second it runs relly rough, i stop it and start it again then it's ok. The car has 302,000 k on it and never had a problem before.
    anyone have a idea.
  • boyviiboyvii Posts: 1
    hi all,
    i just bought a 2002 accent gs manual. i owned a 1996 accent gt for 4 years until 2003 when i sold it.
    anyway, this new car handles WAAAAAY differently. has anyone else experienced scary scary highway rides or turns? this car gets blown all over the road but the worst part is really the wheels i think. i read back on the board and saw that someone claimed that tire shine makes the back wheels literally pick up off the ground when making turns. this has happened to me but i don't know if i can just attribute it to tire shine even though the car had recently been detailed before i bought it. i let some of the air out of the tires as i measured that they were overinflated. but still, the turns are spongier than the 96 gt.
    so my question, apparently the 2002 gs has an option for larger tires (R14s). what does that mean? do you just get larger tires and they fit? do you need new rims? does the speedometer need adjusting? are these tires also wider?
    any help would be greatly appreciated!
  • howidhowid Posts: 3
    I understand that my accent needs its timing belt changed at 60K miles, and agree this is a good idea for the life of my car, but I just cant afford the 350 bucks needed to do so. Is this an easy process for a semi-handy person? I've done fairly major maintenance jobs before with other cars (never a timing belt, though), is it that hard?

    Do I need special tools, etc.? Is there a DIY link or book I can get to walk me through it? I see timing belts all over for under 50 bucks. Now, I CAN afford that, lol.

    Thanks :shades:
  • beliverbeliver Posts: 155
    howid: Look at it this way. If you cannot afford the $350 bux for a timing belt replacement can you afford about 2K for a whole new engine ? That is what will happen IF the belt breaks, trashed engine !! Those timing belts usually will last a lot longer than 60K miles BUT if it doesn't you will not get coverage under the power train warranty. The choice is yours. Do you feel lucky ?

  • I just bought a 1995 Hyundai Accent 3-door hatchback. It has 113,000 miles on it. I was wondering what to check on the car, I mean, general stuff that I may need to take care of. If anyone has any helpful hints I'll be very grateful.
  • howidhowid Posts: 3
    beliver: I understand the importance of this, like I mentioned before. It's just I cant afford that huge of an expense, especially when I can do it myself for the price of a 45 dollar timing belt and an afternoon. So, have you done this yourself? If so, how difficult was it? That's all Im asking.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Timing belt replacement is not difficult. It helps to have a repair manual so you have the basic procedure and all the specs handy. Patience is also required.
  • beliverbeliver Posts: 155
    howid: If you must do it then do it right. While you have all the bits and pieces scattered all over the garage go ahead and replace the water pump too as it is "right there" and it would be a shame to do all the work and then have it leak or fail a few miles later.

    Hyundai has a great web site for parts etc. Also I would get a "Factory Manual" from them as well.

    I have changed timing belts on several cars but not on my Accent GT. Too new, but it will be a straight forward job. Take your time and follow the manual exactly or you may induce a timing problem that may be difficult to remedy or possibly damage a valve as well.

    Good luck !! Believer
  • howidhowid Posts: 3
    Thank you for help. I might have access to a Mitchell program to help with this job. I'm sure it will be a great tool.

    Also, do you have this Hyundai parts link you mentioned? I'd like to use genuine parts.

    Lastly, you mentioned a manual, I've looked all over and havn't been able to find one. There doesnt seem to be anything out there for the 2002 Accents. Any suggestions?

    Thank you
  • beliverbeliver Posts: 155
    howid: Go to Hyundai and look around they have a very owner friendly site
  • there could be lots of things that need servicing / replacing on your second hand motor. Depends what's been, and what's not been done in the last four years of services.

    if you have all the paper work for the car, what's been done at each annual service, that would help you out no end.

    Check your fan belt, if it's looking worn and perished it could well need replacing, the chances are the timing belt will need doing too if so, as the belts tend to wear out together. It's a good idea to change them every four years.

    Somtimes people forget about the engine coolant, should be changed every two years for best cooling efficency. if it looks a horrible shade of black rather than sky blue, then you could drain, flush and refill the cooling system with fresh coolent and water.
    just drain a drop off from the radiator plug into a plastic cup if u want a look.

    another thing that somtimes gets forgotten is the gear oil, should be done every two years if possible, can only help you out with the gear oil if it's a manual though, never changed auto transaxle fluid before...

    Engine oil....if that's not been changed for 10,000 miles or a year then it'll need doin, along with the filter.

    All this stuff should be in your owners manual, when to change what etc.

    anyhow, hope that's some help...
  • bigdoggbigdogg Posts: 9
    I am a mechanic in the states. I will tell you what your problem is. The mechanics that you are taking it too can't be very sharp, as this is a basic problem that you are having. It is what is called an Idle Air Control Valve. It has a few other names like throttle bypass valve..etc. But what happens is that when you come to a stop light, this valve is supposed to regulate your idle. When you run down the road with the throttle open, it is 100% open--so when you let your foot off the gas the engine won't die. It then regulates the idle of the motor with the valve open at 45% say at a stoplight. What happens when these things go bad, is that the pintle that controls air flow through the valve gets gummed up and sticks. So when you go to stop at a stoplight, it hangs wide open like it should going down the road-----not at a stoplight. The motor then gets to much air and stalls out. The valve then goes back to it starting position when motor is started. I would not take your car back to the mechanic that told you it was the fuel pump. If they were doing any diagnostics at all, they would have simply looked at the fuel pressure at various times and over multiple starts to see if that was the culprit. Obviously not, since it didn't fix the problem. The Idle Air Control Valve is usually located on the intake manifold behind the throttle body. Because this valve simply controls the amount of air that goes around the throttle plate which regulates your idle. This is an easy fix, with most IACV's(for short), costing somewhere between 30-65$ US, and a half hour labor to put on. Sorry this post is so long, just wanted to explain it to you fully. I hope that this helps and I am 99% sure this is the problem. We have lots of problems with them in cars over here. Because our smog systems throw carbon through them and that is what gunks them up, or the IAC motor goes bad. You get a new motor on the new valve you would purchase. Please post again and tell me if this was it. I am sure it is. Oh, if the motor ever doesn't start, like it keeps on cranking over with no running. Depress the gas pedal 1/2 way down and hold it there and crank the motor over, it will start. But you really need to get a new valve. Hope this helps Kelli.

  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Thanks - and welcome! It's great to have mechanics on board to help out.
  • My son; wife destroyed their engine. He is replacing it now but has no idea where all of the electric connectors go to on the engine compartment. Is the somewhere here on line where i might get a picture or an idea where all the connectors might go to.

    Any and all help is appreciated.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    Hyundai on-line shop manual:
  • vthuppilvthuppil Posts: 16
    I need to get my timing belt replaced. I am running on about 64,300 miles on my 2000 Accent, and I should financially be able to replace it in about three weeks time, so about 700-1000 miles more, I'm hoping it can last.

    But I've been hearing a squeaking in mornings for a while now, maybe 2,000-3,000 miles, it's been happening. Usually it happens only early in the mornings, but this morning the squeaking lasted all the way to work, a 25 mile drive. The squeaking was a lot less by the time I got to work than it was when I first started it, but regardless it lasted all the way. Can anyone tell me if this is an indication of my timing belt wearing out more or what? Or is this unrelated to the timing belt?
  • markp63markp63 Posts: 1
    hi kelli, we also have that exact same problem with our 97 excel and it has been unsolvable for about 3 years , it won't start after it is warm and then it will be fine for the next few drives, we have to make sure we park on a slope whenever we go anywhere as it will roll start without any problem . have you managed to solve it yet ? im going to try the things that have been suggested to you by those helpful people, please let me know if any of the suggestions have fixed the problem , we also live in australia , between orange and bathurst nsw , i typed in hyundai excel elecrical problems to google and there were quite a few reports of hyundai excel connection problems causing intermitent starting problems so maybe with everyones help we may solve the mystery of the 2 australian hyundais that won't start . regards to all markp63
  • Yes, the squeeling sound is likley to be the belts in need of replacement, sooner it's done the better. They're squeeling beause they've stretched with age, so are slipping on the pullys. Dont leave it too long, if the timing belt breaks, it'll lead to a huge engine repair bill.
  • Is enough 1 galon, I have a 1994 Accent GLS whit 1.5L engine. I use less than a Galon, put 3/4 of the 1 gl bottle, an then see the dipstick to complete the level.

  • HE HEI Becarfull, the oil level must be ckecked with the oil cold, dont warm, just because the oil expands and give you a bad read, the level range on the dipstick is for cold oil!!!!. In other cases you will find a dipstick with 2 ranges in one side cold in the other side hot (this is usually in heavy machinary, like Caterpillar or Freightliner)

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