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Hyundai Accent Hatchbacks



  • An aclaration, the timing belt and the belts are two diferent things , the belts maybe are 2 or 3, one moves de A/C pump, one moves the water pump and the alternator and the last moves de hydraulic pump for the hydraulic direction.
    the timing belt or timing chain (metal or rubber) depends on the model of vehicule and it is inside the cover of the front of the engine, however the engine is in transversal position the front of the engine is faced to the right front wheel.

  • Guys/gals,
    I have a 2001 Accent GL that came with a spoiler (among other body options) directly from a dealer in Maryland.

    Recently I noticed that the center brake lamp was burned out. It is mounted between the spoiler and the trunk lid.

    I can't for the life of me figure out how to change the bulb. The bezel has no screws. I thought that if I removed the spoiler, I might get access to the bulb. The spoiler is mounted on the trunk lid via three studs that are accessed from the underside of the trunk lid. I removed the nuts but the spoiler would still not come loose. I believe that the spoiler might be glued?? and I'm afraid to pull up too hard since it could break off!

    Can anybody help?

  • With small oil systems like on our Accents then you probably can get away with doing the oil level on cold. However with larger systems, eg on performance sports cars which have a large amount of engine oil then you should do a reading from a warm engine, you said it yourself, it does expand with heat. If you fill it up to the top on cold, it will go above the level once the engine is warm and could cause engine damage.

    Give the oil 10 min or so to drain back into the oil sump after the engine's turned off before a reading is taken though.

    I know someone who did this on a new-ish Porsche once, no damage was caused luckily, but clouds of blue smoke were emmited from the exhaust as the engine burnt off the excess oil.
  • Hi, ive never had a close look at the spoiler on an accent, how it's put together etc. But have you tried removing the red plastic covering the light? That may clip on and off with the help from a flathead screwdriver maybe?
  • Hey,
    Thanks for the reply...

    It is really strange. There are no screws anywhere around the spoiler or bezel itself. The spoiler appears to be mounted directly to the trunk lid via three studs coming out of the bottom of the spoiler. Nuts are then placed on the studs from underneath the trunk lid, to apparently hold the spoiler on. It appears that if I could get the spoiler off, it would be academic. But I've removed all three nuts and the spoiler is still held on the trunk, securely. I've tried using a flat-bladed screw driver underneath the spoiler (in the hopes of prying it off), but no deal. Obviously, I don't want to scratch the paint.

    I've also tried prying the bezel itself off, thinking it would "just pop off". But before I busted or cracked the bezel, I figured I'd see if anyone else had this experience. I called several Hyundai dealers and one told me that 2001 Accents don't come with spoilers so it must be an after-market piece, so he can't help. Not sure if I believe this. Another said he just wasn't familiar enough with it to help. So here I am...
  • Help! I am a college student who needs a car... I used to own the 2001 Toyota Echo, and though I hated it at first, ended up really liking the car. It was totalled a few months ago, and now I need a car. Money is an issue, if it wasnt I would be in a Scion tc. How is this car ranked? My family nor I have ever purchased an American car... so I am skeptical. Any advice?
  • All cars are getting much more reliable now. I own a Hyundai Accent (1999), doing 500 miles a week in it and it's causing me no problems really, so id rank it 10/10 for a cheap and reliable pop along car. However, i would like my next car to cave air con and power steering so look out for those when your car hunting. Also, i'd go for a manual gear box, i've heard people complain about the automatic Accents.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    My mother-in-law has a 2002 Accent. So far, it's been bullet-proof, even though it suffers at her hands. As long as I keep nudging her on maintenance and so forth, I think she'll get great service out of it.
  • Just re-read gavilanex's message, didnt see that the two different dip sticks were mentioned the first time round, one for warm and one for cold engines.

    Basicly all im tryin to say is to be carfull not to put too much oil in your engine, otherwise damage may be caused. In my owners manual it does say to let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature before taking a reading.
  • Timing belts do not squeal. They are much like a chain as opposed to the V-belts that drive your power steering, A/C and alternator. V-belts will squeal if they are worn or not properly tensioned.
  • Hi Mike,

    You sound very knowledgeable and thorough in your assesment. I hope you can help me with my questions.

    I have a '98 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98,000 miles on it. It has been a very reliable car and most recently I have been taking care of some long overdue maintenance issues.

    I just had the cooling fan motor assembly replaced ($190 parts and $90 labor) and three belts replaced ($30 parts and $60 labor).

    The mechanic tells me (and rightly so) that I need to replace the timing belt and get a tune up. How much do you think this should cost?

    I just want to make sure that I am not being ripped.

  • When i had my timing belt changed at my local garage a couple of years ago it took three hours labour to change it, the belt itself cost about £10-£15.

    The cost of the job depends greatly on what the garage charges for labour, for me it was £25 an hour, so i had the job done for less than £100.

    But if i'd have taken it to a Hyundai dealer the cost of the job could have been over £200 with the amout they charge for labour.

    Hope that's of some use...
  • Hi mark, Did you solve the problem with your Hyundai? I havent with mine. The stupid car sat there for some weeks recently untouched as I had a baby 3 weeks ago. Finally, I decided to sell the stupid car, so my fiancee scrubbed it up, took it for a drive to take some photos of it for the advertisement and it typically cut out on him while he was driving it. As per the other times, it started 5 - 10 mins later after several attempts. I knew I couldnt sell it like this & have a clear conscious, so in despearation I took it to an RACV repairer near home who also buys cars. He offered to buy it from me as is - no RWC, nothing. I jumped at the offer. I am pleased to see the end of this useless piece of metal which caused me no end of stress when I least needed it. I just wonder if he is able to fix the problem before he flogs it off to some other poor unsuspecting buyer...
  • Hi, I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GL. Recently, it has been having some trouble accellerating, when I hit the gas to get going, it hiccups a few times before it begins to accellerate. It doesn't stall, but it's really annoying and I know there's a problem. Once I get to my regular speed, it's fine, it's just the getting there that's the problem. Has anyone else ever seen or heard of this problem?
  • Just bought a 2005 Accent. Says its suppose to get 29 city and 33 MPG highway, I just went through my first tank and got about 300 out of it which average out to about 25 MPG and that is 90% highway driving, driving 65-70 all the time, and being very gentle on it and slowly accelerating, is it normal to have low MPG at first?

    The only reason I bought this car was to save on gas, I also own a 96 Mustang GT with a few goodies so I need this to get good gas mileage, at 25 MPG I'm not even making close to the city driving.

    Also there was a few things I thought were shady and overall am not very pleased with the car. The power door locks are absurd, that is not power door locks when you have to press one of the locks down manually and it automatically locks the other 2 doors (I have the 3 door GT package). The security system comes with a remote so I figured that would control the locks also since I have power door locks, but I was wrong about that also. Never heard of a car other than this one that when you have power door locks and a remote keyless entry, the remote doesnt control the locks. With that being said if the gas mileage does not increase I plan to get rid of it and would like to before its to late. Does Hyundai have any return policy, like a 30 day or something like that? Or any return policy even if it means I can not get a full refund? Thanks in advance for all your help guys.
  • beliverbeliver Posts: 155
    sick96: I assume this is a new car (2005 ?) and isn't even broken in yet. My 2005 GT with AT gets a consistent 43 to 36 mpg @ highway speeds, 70 to75 mph, with the air on. My car now has 11,500 miles on it but it did not begin to "loosen up" until about 8000 miles and then began to increase mpg at almost every fill-up. Be patient it'll get better and better.

    As to the "power locks" , well, they ARE power ! Hyundai did not say they are "power remote" entry locks. Didn't you read the specs or test drive the thing before you signed on the dotted line ? I didn't know that the Accent offered a factory OEM security system. Was that a dealer add-on ? There are kits on the market that will convert your locks to remote at a pretty low cost. Google -up some sites and you'll see all kinds of them.

    Sounds like you have a bad case of "buyers remorse" at this point. No there is NO 30 day return for something like this and would not come under the lemon law either. NO full refund !! Get real ! As to getting rid of the car @ this point just becaus of your disappointment with the locks and low mpg consider the licking you'll take on the depreciation if you bail @ this point. Sounds like you rushed into this thing without a lot of research. Good luck anyway.

  • Yes the car is new. Good to know about the gas mileage that was my main concern and the main reason I bought the car.

    Maybe its because I'm coming from a 9 almost 10 year old mustang that has more luxuries than this car, nor have I ever heard of a car that has power locks setup like that. I test drove a GLS, the GT one that I bought was not ready yet and they said it would be basically the same except for the CD player, and power stuff, which in every other car I have seen the power door locks have a switch on the door panel. Reading the specs did not good (which I did) becaues power door locks u would assume since 99% of the cars with power door locks have the switch on the door panel that it would come with it. Not sure if it is a factory OEM security system or not they just said at the dealership that they put it on every single car they sell, so it was really an option u basically had to get it. You would think that its pretty easy to convert it, its not. My Mustang is a GTS which means it came without power windows/ door locks and I just did the conversion, its a major PITA, maybe it would be easier on the accent but judging from the mustang it is no simple task.

    I never said anything about full refund, I'm just wondering how much I would lose if I did try to trade it back in, I mean if its gonna be over 2K then its not worth it but if I'm only gonna lose around 1K or so it might be worth it, well that is assuming the gas mileage does not get better, if it does then I really dont have that much of an issue, its just I bought this car for a daily driver to get good gas mileage then the first tank I get 25 MPG, which is why I am not very happy when the car isnt even serving the sole purpose I bought it for. I think it was a bit rushed with gas prices being what they are and the mustang not getting the greatest fuel economy, just checking out what my options are and seeing what exactly the deal with the car is and trying to find out if its worth taking the hit and losing some money to get another car. Thanks for the feedback though I'm not as disappointed anymore now that I have one person saying that the gas mileage will go up, getting 35-40 mpg in an auto with air on is awesome, I have a 5 speed manual and rarely run my air driving mostly highway at around the same speeds as you, so if I get even 33 MPG highway I will be happy.
  • beliverbeliver Posts: 155
    sick96: I erred on the mileage. I should have said 33 to 36 mpg ( not the 43, I wish) but pretty good at that. I have actually got over 38 mpg at lower speeds tho. Almost all my driving is interstate @ 75 or 80mph and in our blazing hot 97deg. temps here in Florida.

    Unless you put some bux down on the car you most likely will take at least a $2K hit and that is assuming you got a good deal in the first place. You may actually owe more than the car is worth @ wholesale. Check KBB for the trade-in price. That is about the best a dealer will go for a 2005.

    Actually, the conversion kit to install remote entry is pretty easy. It is all a modification to the wiring. My neighbor installed one he got from JC Whitney & it took about an hour and cost around $80.00.

    Hang in there.

    By the way I just sold my 2004 Mustang GT. Hated the thing. Had 9K on it and I took a real beating but was sooooooo glad to dump it.

    regards Believer
  • Yep hang in there and your mileage will get better. I bought a 2000 Accent GL with 49,000 miles on it. I guess the previous owner hadn't treated it too well. For about the first six to seven tanks, I would be lucky if I could manage 30 mpg. I once got as low as 24 mpg in primarily city driving.

    But a few months later, after driving that isn't the best but isn't insane either, and timely oil changes (I believe this is quite important), these days, I never get below 30 mpg. I've gotten as high as 37.5 mpg in the Adirondacks on mountain roads, so don't worry, your mileage will get better. I rarely get below 35 mpg these days on long distance trips and average 32-33 mpg on my daily commute which is 80% highway.
  • Someone else in this thread before commented that you may as well change your water pump along with the timing belt as it is "right there." I highly suggest that. I was planning to change both at the end of the week, but yesterday, my water pump broke. The next thing I know, I smell a burning smell and my engine temperature gauge is near the red zone.

    I took the car to the mechanic today and got the timing belt, water pump, drive belts, and engine thermostat gauge replaced. With labor, this is costing me $550 or the equivalent of 275 pound sterling. My mechanic charges about $75 per hour for labor I think. Along with a 6% Pennsylvania sales tax, and 1% Philadelphia sales tax, my total is $590.

    But I knew this is a chance I was taking when I didn't get the repairs done at 60,000 miles. My car just crossed 65,000 miles this past weekend. If you have the financial means, then get the timing belt and water pump replaced at 60,000 miles on the dot. If not, then save money and do it as quickly as possible. Luckily thanks to my AAA Plus membership, the towing was free, otherwise that would have cost me another $225 at least.
  • Whenever i put my foot down on the gas my car makes a whistling noise, coming from the engine bay area, the noise stops when i remove my foot from the gas peddel.

    Sounds a little like a turbo, but i'm pretty sure my 1.3 petrol accent isn't turbo charged lol

    The lubes and fluids have been changed at all the specified intervals. Belts were changed about 15,000 miles ago.

    Only things I can think of are worn bearings in either the water pump or alternator, or a dodgey capacitor in the alterantor, as they can somtimes be the cause of strange noises when they play up.

    But I dont wanna spend hours playin round with my bearings if it's somthing much simpler and easier to fix that i'm over looking....any ideas anyone?
  • aldagaldag Posts: 81
    My 2000 Accent continues to run well. I had the timing belt replaced at 60,000 miles, along with the other three belts. I did not replace the water pump. The car has been getting very good mileage. Recently, I got 352 miles for 8.45 gallons of middle grade gas on flat highway driving, or 41.7 mpg. On a trip to the Catskills, I averaged somewhat less at 38.5 mpg because of the hills. This is with the 5 speed manual and AC off. Someone mentioned earlier driving 70-75 mph in a new Accent. Slower speeds would be better during the break in period as the new bearings are tight and sustained high speed driving can cause excessive bearing wear. Mileage does get better as the engine loosens up and conservative driving will also stretch mileage. The only part that required replacement due to problems so far has been the MAS. My Accent continues to be a very economical car.
  • Try opening the throttle body by hand. May you can pinpoint the noise with the hood up.
  • Thanks, but the noise of the engine makes it really hard to locate the whistling sound. Can only hear it distinctly with the hood down.....strange.

    Just wondered if anyone else has had and resolved any similar whistles....?
  • vinnygvinnyg N.Y.Posts: 76
    Hi Philbill, I have a '99 Accent with 167,000 miles and have had the whistling problem you speak of since it was new. I brought it in after owning it a few months, and they said it was the exhaust manifold gasket. Gasket was replaced, but the whistling continued. Nothing else could be found as the source. About 2 years ago, I received a recall notice about the exhaust manifold cracking, thus creating an exhaust leak. I brought it back in and they clearly replaced the manifold and put in a new gasket, but the noise still continued. Recently, I brought it in to a brake/muffler shop to replace the calipers, and the tech immediately noticed the whistle. I saw him perplexed as he went under the vehicle with a shop light and had another tech sit in it to open the throttle, thus making the whistle a bit louder. They felt it was an exhaust leak as well, but could not determine where it was coming from. I told them it has been doing that for 6 1/2 years now, and nothing has corrected it. I still manage 35-40 MPG with the auto trans, and it passes the inspection with no problems. It can be annoying if you ride with the windows wide open, but it doesn't bother me a bit. As long as it continues to be as problem free as it has, I'll deal with the whistle on my 150 mile a day commute.
    Sorry I can't provide a resolution to the problem
    Be kind to the people you meet on the way up, because you're going to meet the same people on the way down.
  • farkasfarkas Posts: 13
    Hi Guys, if anybody can help me, i just bought an accent hatchback,
    went to the inspection, and it turned out that it smokes,
    looks like a light white smoke? How can i fix the problem?
    (Fuel filter? Oil change? Sparkplug?)
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    Black smoke: Engine running rich

    Blue smoke: Engine burning oil

    White smoke: Water is getting into cylinders...possible bad head or head gasket.
  • farkasfarkas Posts: 13
    can i replace this manually or better go to repair?
    How much would it cost probably to change it?
  • farkasfarkas Posts: 13
    Are there any "tricks" - to stop smoking temproraliy- what I can do just to pass the inspection?
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    This is all conjecture as I dont have the car in front of me. IF it is water causing your smoke and you are looking for a quick fix adding a can of BARS Stop Leak to your antifreeze *might* cause it to stop smoking. BARS works by finding the crack in the head or head gasket and plugging it with a powdered iron substance. You can find it at any auto supply store.

    Having said that I strongly advise you have a pro mechanic repair your car the right way. The right repair may cost $1000 or more.
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