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Driveshaft CV joint/ "PTU" fight! - 2005 Equinox

Cowboy_CustomsCowboy_Customs Posts: 5
edited August 2014 in Chevrolet
OK, I am working on my aunts car, an '05 equinox. Started with an oil change and evolved into a carrier bearing. I am now at the point to reassemble and have come to find only half the CV joint came out of the "PTU" I have tried EVERYTHING I can think of, the rest of the CV joint will not come out!
It MUST come out to reassemble to CV joint. I have a print out from the FSM. The CV joint didnt just fall out like the FSM would like to depict. Does anyone have experience with this that can lend me some help?


  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    While you're waiting for a reply here you may want to also try Got a Quick, Technical Question?. Power transfer units can be tricky.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • I'm assuming by now you must have your driveshaft back in so I need to pick your brain. I too had a bad carrier bearing and removed the driveshaft to have it replaced. I unbolted the rubber boot at the front of the shaft and gave it a yank thinking that it was just a sealed slip joint only to have 6 balls and a cage fall out onto the garage floor. I'm fairly handy and do 90% of my own repairs but after 2 hours of fighting with this thing I can't get it back together. So what is the PTU, is it the part of the joint that is attached to the tranny and does it in fact come off. Because that would simplify thing alot. Any advise on putting this thing back together would be appreciated. I'm thinking of taking it to the dealer and getting them to do but if it's a simple job I'd rather not give them the $85 an hour!
  • Oh man, that is exactly what happened to me! It appears as if GM never wanted you the comsumer to ever replace it, and instead let them sell you a new driveshaft at 1200 dollars, and have them install it!! What I ended up doing was using a puller, and unfortunatly tear the center out of the outher end of the CV joint cup. You will see what I mean. I had to patch the hole and re fill with grease. And every surface of that retarded design that was in contact with other metal I painted in never sneeze. And you will most likely need a buddy to help you get those 6 bearuings back on the propellar and in the cage, one at a time. You have to roll it kind of while trying to slide the whole assembly back together.
    Also, make sure you mark the piece that is still in the PTU so it goes back exactly the same. I didnt, and ended up with new used shaft at 400 bucks installed.

    The PTU is just the tranfer case, and NO it does not need to come off.
    MY advice, if you have A LOT of patience is try for a day to get it done. Otherwise, DEALER. I will never do that job again myself.
  • So what you are telling me is that part of the joint (the outer cup) stayed in the PTU and it shouldn't have? Did you get it out or just wrestle it back together on the vehicle? I downloaded the shop manual for it and it show's the joint as all one piece which makes sense. I'm thinking of giving it one more try. My son in law is handy and has loads of patience, maybe I'll get him to help me.
  • Yea, I had to pull that "cup" like I said the way I did it was with a puller and pierced that cup and welded the hole in the cup back together.
  • Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try and let you know how it goes.
  • Yes, keep us updated on this. I saw just the other day some poor poor fool like us trying to take out a driveshaft on an equinox in his front yard on ramps. lol
  • rvothrvoth Posts: 147
    How much did the modification cost, how many kilometers are on your Torrent. :)
  • Hey where did post number 9 go??? I wanted to read that!!! I think its about time someone modified this junk design, patented it, and then put it up for sale to the poor owners of these things. And not try and make a billion and 1 dollart\s off of it! Not that im a opposed to money or anything but really GM???
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    A message may be deleted by the author who may have second thoughts about what he or she wrote or by a host if the message violates the member agreement. In any case, that is not the topic here so let's move on. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • rvothrvoth Posts: 147
    There's always a better design but usually cost more money or is harder install .
  • I took my shaft to a driveline shop called Lindsay Driveline, and they replaced the broken C.V. in the rear shaft with a flange-stub-slip yoke-u-joint set up. It cost about $500 and works great. They had it together and installed on the same day.
  • rvothrvoth Posts: 147
    Sounds like a good fix, what year is your Torrent. Was the CV joint on the rear of the drive shaft before the rear differently or was it in the front of the rear drive shaft near the tranny take off. Do you have AWD ?
  • It is a 2006 AWD. The C.V. replacement is at the front of the rear shaft.
  • solomensolomen Posts: 1
    Has anyone successfully reinstalled the CV joint at the front of the drive shaft? I'm working on one now and it's kicking my butt!!
  • seajaiseajai Posts: 2

    I just completed this repair and had the same problem with the joint stuck in the output flange on the transmission. Here is my solution to remove the joint without damaging it. First off you will need a slide hammer for this. The through holes in the joint are 5/16", which is the same size as the hole needed for a 3/8" coarse thread bolt. Take a 3/8" drill bit and bore about a 1/4" into 2 bolt holes opposite each other. Then tap the remainder of the hole using a 3/8"-16 NC tap. make sure to use cutting oil and use compressed air to blow out the chips.

  • seajaiseajai Posts: 2

    Now bolt on the base for your slide hammer making sure to use a proper length bolt to get it nice and tight. Thread on the slide hammer and give it a couple good whacks the joint should pop right off.

  • el_nene4uel_nene4u Posts: 1
    thank you seahai  that's how I actually did it and you worked very good
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