Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

VW New Beetle (GL, GLS & GLX)



  • manraymanray Posts: 8
    No, I do not do the maintenance based on the owner's manual, I have the VW dealer do the maintenance. I use the owner's manual for reference. Having said that, according to the VW dealer mechanics, the oil pressure is fine as is the temperature of the car (since that light is also on). So....with your 30 year's experience, what now? I don't seem to be the only one having false indicator warning lights in VWs.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    If your servive technition TRULY put a calibratd pressure-meter on your engine and the oil-pressure is correct. Then the next logical step in troubleshooting would be to check the oil-pressure sensors on the engine to make sure they are reporting correctly.

    Troubleshooting ANY problem with a mechanical apparatus (such as an automobile) is a sequence of logical steps that narrow the problem down. There is no magic in the process.... but having knowledge about the system being troubleshot coupled with logical troublshooting skills is helpful.

    Any bonehead can guess what the problem is and charge you as they replace components. It is an unfortunate fact that some folks that "fix cars" for a living are more interested in selling parts than actually spending time troubleshooting a problem. (They are paid based on the number of vehicles they run thru their bay instead of the number of satisfied customers.)

    What is more scary (to me) is that many of the younger "car fixers" have no clue what to do if the onboard computer does not show a failing sensor. (such as in your case)

    My suggestion to you is to find somone that KNOWS how to troubleshoot and utilize the computer diagnostics. The problem you are having is NOT a diffucult one to diagnose and isolate.
  • manraymanray Posts: 8
    I will do that...thanks for your suggestions. ;)
  • limabnlimabn Posts: 1
    i also have been having the same problem with my temp light for the past few weeks. i have a 2001 Beetle with nearly 70,000 miles. It seems to drive fine but on random occasion the blue temp light sometimes won't go off after the engine's warmed up and when i drive it for more than half an hour it starts flashing. Then sometimes after flashing it goes off completely. Then later the light will come on again. i checked the manual and it says that it's an electrical problem - see your local Volkswagen dealer. But i've got issue with paying the dealership over $100 just to run a diagnostics test to then charge me more money IF they find out what the real problem is. i'm beginning to think that it's no big deal and that it's just a wire connected to the panel that's stopped working. i would be very interested to know if you do find out anything concrete.
  • mosgoodmosgood Posts: 2
    I was searching the web and found your post because just this morning I began having the EXACT same problem with my temp light coming on blue, going off, flashing, resetting and working just fine after turning the car off for awhile. I have only had my 2001 beetle (2.0 gas enging) for about a month and a half, so no experience at all with this car... is it the temp sensor? If so, how hard is it to replace without a Bentley manual to walk you through it?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Yout temp light serves multiple purposes. It may alert due to the LEVEL SENSOR in the resivour, if engine is too cold or if engine is too hot.

    The MOST COMMON problem is that the level in the resivour is just a bit low... the light will indicate a problem until the engine warms up. At that point, the antifreeze expands enough to satisfy the level sensor and then the light goes out.

    It is OK to a up to 1/2 cup of DISTILLED water to replenisth a low resivour. If you have to add any more than that, you have a leak and more attention is needed.

    REMINDER... if you have to add antifreeze, use ONLY G12 antifreeze in a VW
  • mosgoodmosgood Posts: 2
    Just a follow-up ... it was indeed the temp sensor - cost me $7 and change at the dealership (including O-ring and clip) and about 5 mins to change it out. My blue temp light hasn't come on since (except when first starting - which is normal).
  • Okay, so here's the deal... I was at the mall the other day for about 2 hrs. I go out to my car to start it and it is making a clunking noise and I had no idea what was going on... I opened the hood and the engine was shaking (anyone who has a new Beetle knows it is really smooth and really quiet normally) well I was told it was the spark plugs, bcuz when you drive it has no power... Its a manual trans and has the turbo, before it started doing this, it had TONS and TONS of power, I'd squeak the tires on accident... Haha. And now I cant figure out where to put the spark plugs or if this is really the problem... Can anyone help? :confuse:
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    hey there tipolston. possibly one cylinder is not firing. presumably your car is not a diesel, so sparkplug wire(s) could have come loose, or could be so old/dried that some sparks are arcing to the engine block and never making it to the spark plug(s). if you provide the # of miles & model year of the car we can get more of a clue. you can test for an arcing spark plug wire by running the engine in a very dark area - open the hood and if you see sparking, that means you need new plug wires.
    in general i'd recommend you follow VW recommendation about when to replace spark plugs and wires.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Since this happened "suddenly" while parked, it is VERY unlikely to be a sparkplug went bad while the engine was not even running. It is FARR more likely that an ignitor got some moisture in it.

    The 1.8T audi engine has COP (Coil On Plug) There are 4 coils (one mounted to each sparkplug.) The COP design ELIMINATES the sparkplug wires.

    You do not mention what year your car is but the 1.8T has a history of the ignitor coils going bad. VW "recalled" 1000s of them to replace the coils.
  • my car is a 2000 beetle... gas engine.... 69000 miles on it... and we replaced the spark plugs and nothing as changed.... we plugged it into that computer thign adn said that it has 2 coils out.... do you know if tht is normally covered by the warranty?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Which gas engine do you have? If you have the 1.8T Audi engine, then it is very likely that your ignitors are covered by VW. It all depends on the suffix letter of the partnumbers stamped on your coils.
  • Bought a used VW New Beetle, 2001 GLX automatic, 1.8T engine. Had 74k on it when bought, coming close to 80k now.

    There's the preamble...

    A couple months ago, the check-engine light came on. The dealership didn't know what to do with it (since it wasn't a VW dealer). The VW dealership I went to charged $115 to diagnose (apparently, NOT covered under my optional 3-year warranty... go figure), and informed me the secondary air-pump had a crack in it.

    The guy was none-too-clear about the how or why this was a problem except that "you'll have little or no power until you get it replaced. $690".

    I decided to hold off, since I'm not made of money.

    My questions are:
    How serious is this?
    How serious is this likely to get?
    Can these parts be gotten from a salvage yard? And if so, is it worth it to do so?
    Can the part be installed by a person with little-to-no engine experience (namely, me)?
    Can the original part be repaired or jury-rigged in any way?

    I think that covers most of my questions.

    Thanks for reading!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I have never heard of the secondary air pump going bad. It is used to pump air into the exhaust to feed enought oxygent to the catalytic converter so it can burn off the crud in the exhaust.

    Given that you have a 2001 and that model year is KNOWN to have bad MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor. I would suggest that was considerd.

    The MAF was such a problem during 2001, there was a factory extended warantee on the MAF.
    (I realize that your milage is beyond that now)

    To more specifically answer your question: YES, the "secondary air pump" may be a good item to source from a scrapyard since it usually does not fail and they may available for cheep.

    Also. World Impex has your "secondary air pump" for under $300.

    If you cannot replace it yourself, some shops will install a part for you. Of course, they will not waranty anything...but that is what you get for going the cheep way out 8-)
  • bbudneybbudney Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 (116,000 miles) with a bad secondary air pump as well. Quoted about $800 to fix. Also recently had the catalytic converter, MAF, and secondary air injection solenoids replaced.

    Question, if the secondary air pump is bad, would that cause the catalytic converter to deteriorate? My mechanic, who replaced the cat last November, said he's getting a code that the cat is not functioning but would be covered under his warranty.
  • jskyyjskyy Posts: 2
    Hi All,

    I have a '02 1.8 VW Bug, and the check engine light came on. I notice that the RPM guage is zooming up, then down - like, the car is shaking while it is turned on. Could this be the carbeurator - is there something I can do or add to the fuel, etc. before I get taken at the dealer tomorrow morning? Thank you for any input - I can look the car over extensively with any advice offered! :sick:
  • bbudneybbudney Posts: 2
    There is no carbeurator on these cars. All fuel injection.
    Does this happen when you're accelerating or holding a steady speed? My Jetta was exhibited a similar problem recently which was diagnosed as a bad mass airflow sensor (MAF). A fuel additive will not help.
  • jskyyjskyy Posts: 2
    Thank you - it's actually my girlfriend's car, and I don't know diddly about VW's. She says it shakes while it's idling - steady speed. It just happened on her way to work this morning. I guess the shop will run a diagnostic on it and Lord knows how much that will cost. Anything I can do to make sure she gets home from work OK? She wants me to come by after work, to look at the car. Any suggestions? :(
  • I purchased a new car last saturday with 30 miles and the first day blinkers stopped working I call the dealer and they promisse to fix it and give a loan car,but I went there the next business day and they did not have loan car, so they ask me to come back next week, because the car also had a scratch in front that thay just can fix wednesday, then, 2 day later (day 5) engine light show up in my panel...together with a rear noise everytime that we star the car.
    I live in GA, the lemon law does not help to return my car...beacuse it have not even been in the shop yet (i SUPPOSED TO HAVE AN APPOINMENT WITH THEM TO FIX IT NEXT TUESDAY, BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME UP TO DAY)
    Together with that they sold me the car with a contract that is subject to aproval, and they just ask me after a week that they need that my co signer have to go like primary...because my credit is not enough so I have to do paper work again..will that be my way to finish with this nightmare?

    So if i refuse to make a new contract they just have to keep the car, and thay don't suppose to charge nothing to me?
    I need help as soon as possible, if someone know about this, or had the same situation I will apreciate advises...I do not wanna keep a "new problem car"

    please help
  • Ok, relaying the results of my "Secondary Air Pump" fiasco.

    Bless my lady-love, she convinced me to get a second opinion. Took it to a garage across the road, with NO official VW backing or certifications (to the best of my knowledge)...

    They hooked it up to THEIR computer (free of charge), looked at the pump, and said that the problem was a broken vacuum line. There was no evidence of ANY damage to the pump itself.

    He replaced the hose and the engine light went off.

    Of course, by then, all the solenoids in my transmission were toast... but that's another story.

    The lesson? Trust you instincts. And your fiance.

  • I am so happy because today I sent the car back to the dealer, i did no pay no money for miles or nothing and I even argue about all the problems wuth the engine or nothing, i did what you told me and their reaccion was bad in the beginnig bur the sales guy was nice....

    I never wanted to say what car it was or the brand...But it was not a civic, it was a beetle, i post my SOS but nobody of that forum give me a hand, in spite that they had even more issues with the car than me..

    Thank you my friends...for alll the help...

    now i need to get a new car but I will try to get a Mazda 3 or honda civic,,,,,

    thank u thank u

    by bye :lemon: car......
  • Hi there,
    any suggestions how to fix my bug?, no signs of life, just cranks.
    thanks :sick:
  • I recently bought a '00 new beetle that does not have a bud vase. I was wondering if there was anyone out there that has one that they don't use. Thanks a bunch.
  • Hey guys Im new to the forum, my girlfriend just purchased a 2003 GL VW Beetle, but her passenger brake light is out. I called the place where she bought it from and they said to take it back and they would fix it. Thing is they're not exactly down the street, they're about 30-40 minutes away. Can someone tell me how to get to the the bulb? I think it be cheaper and save time and gas if I fixed it myself. Can someone walk me through on how to fix it?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    the brake bulbs are accessed from INSIDE the hatch. No tools are required (but a screwdriver may be handy to help release some of the catches)

    1) Open "Access panel" to the bulbs
    2) Relase and pull out bulb holder
    3) remove bulb from holder.

    I beleive the bulb is the VERY SAME ONE used in the original 1960s beetle. Just take the bulb into auto-supply place and they can match it up.
  • I have an 02 New Beetle. When I start my car, this HORRIBLE noise comes from the engine right after car starting. I thought it was the belts, but they look fine. Also, the blue coolant light comes on and off and blinks. Sometimes the car wont start at all. I'd have to wait like a half hour then try again.

    Also sometimes, it seems like the car is not getting gas.

    Anyone have any thoughts? :cry:
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You have described at least 3 different things

    1) Horrible noise
    2) Coolant lamp flashing
    3) difficult to start

    #1 - You will have to provide more detail about the noise. Is it metallic or screeching or grinding or hammering or other? How long is this noise occouring after starting engine? Does it happen EVERY time you start engine?

    #2 - The easiest to fix. The antifreeze may be a bit low in the resiviour. When engine is cold, add less than 1/2 cup of DISTILLED water. If you need to add more than 1/2 cup liquid, use only G12 antifreeze. (mixing in other antifreeze can desroy the engine)

    #3 - We need more details;
    Which engine do you have?
    Does this happen only with cold engine?
    How long has this been happening?

    BTW: I think I know why #3 is happenining... but I will wait for your answers before saying anything.
  • I had the same problem. My oil light and temperature light would blink. I had 3 bad sensors. My check engine light also came on. It cost me about $650 to replace the sensors and do the tests and for labor.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    OWCHIE! $650 is a lot of bling for 3 sensors. I am SOOOOO glad that I purchased a VAG-COM for about $230.

    I have diagnosed and repaired at least 4 problems on the 3 VWs in the family. I would say that my VAG-COM has paid for itself and then some.
  • VW 2006 NB new body style with 2.5l/5cyl engine, auto.
    The heater blows cold air when I come to a stop light, rapidly cooling from hot air. It again warms when I rev the engine.
    Dealer-fortunately had a VW engineer present when I inquired about the problem. It seems that VW is aware that the heater core air locks. The dealer can bleed, but at a cost. After driving 100 miles at highway speed, and topping off the coolant reserve (with Audi approved antifreeze) up to the bottom of the internal ring, it fixed the problem. VW has no TSB on this yet and apparently no fix. Moral: Keep the coolant topped up with approved coolant. I will keep my ear to the ground on this.
Sign In or Register to comment.