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Mitsubishi Montero Sport Maintenance and Repair



  • therosetherose Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Montero Sport 2 whl drive 3.0 automatic. I was not having any problems with it untill I had a service center change the trans filter an fluid. Now it jerks bad an the neutral light flashes. If i pull over a kill the vehicle, an re-start it will work for a few minutes. I have had trans ppl look an can not figure out the problem! I like many other people are at my wits end! If anyone can help me, I would so appreciate it!
  • therosetherose Posts: 2
    What do u mean dealer part only? Well I mean, what part are u referring to? The speed sensor?
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  • this was the same problem i was having, your information here helped me fix it in about 10 min. and only $115.00 . thanks for your input.
  • kaseydrtkaseydrt Posts: 1
    edited October 2010
    i have a 95 mitsubishi montero and i was driving it on the freeway to tak my kid to school and there was a loud squeal sqeek noise then there was knocking what the heck is going on !?!please help!!! :mad: :mad: :mad: :confuse:
  • gk123gk123 Posts: 2
    edited October 2010
    Hi.... I have a 2001 Montero Sport Limted 4x4 for which i have changed the front differential which coasted me lot of money. Now after 3 months both the Anti lock and 4x4 light are flashing. Can anyone let me know what can be done.
  • gk123gk123 Posts: 2
    Hi.... I have a 2001 Montero Sport Limted 4x4 for which i have changed the front differential which coasted me lot of money. Now after 3 months both the Anti lock and 4x4 light are flashing. Can anyone let me know what can be done.
  • Hi gk123,
    I have the same problem before and this forum helped me a lot. I want to help and give it back. It would be the freewheel solenoid valve. It is located just below the air cleaner box located in the passenger side of the engine bay. I forgot the part no. but you may try to browse the previous messages and I'm sure you will find it.

    Hope this helps.
  • Hi, I have a 02 Montero Sport, 2 wheel drive, the vehicle runs and shifts great but I noticed when I take off on a cold start for the 1st 10 to 15 min's the 3rd shift before going to OverDrive has a bit of a Flare up, so for example it gets to about 3,000 RPM and right before going into overdrive the RPMs kinda slip to about 3400 or so and then come right back down, it only happens for just a split second or so and its still shifts smooth, theres no jerks or hard shifts it just seems like it slips or flares up for just a second on the last shift from taking off, Is this normal or is this the start of a problem? Any help would be great, Thanks..<
  • ibby2ibby2 Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 2001 Montero Sport 4x4, with 180K miles on it. My first suggestion is you probably have a lot of miles on the truck, let it warm up, I have started to 'baby' my baby, and she does much better, after getting some temp gage movement prior to driving. As far as the slipping transmission problem I thought I also had at one point. I had a trans flush done and I believe it fixed the problem (I drive in severe conditions 6 mo out of the year and 17-20K miles). I recently had a severe trans leak, the seals were all shot, those were just replaced about 6 months ago. Now the truck has put itself into "fail safe" mode and will turn over but there is no getting her to drive. The dealer stated it was the upper valve body and solenoids (which you can't get one piece without the other now, as the upper valve body is 'obsolete'). So it is now at a private mechanic before we go down the path of repairing, replacing anything having to do with the transmission. I had heard from another Service Manager (one who did not get our business since I live out of state now, but did when I lived close) all my questions on repairs went through him since I didn't trust my local dealership. He stated he's never had to touch an A/T on the Montero Sport in regards to major overhauling. So if I'm reading everyone correctly, the most logical place to start is replacing sensors? And this does fix the "grinding" or something is broken noise? Thoughts or suggestions?
  • The car has a tow rating of 5000 pounds. To tow over 3500 pounds you'll need to install a brake controller and have trailer brakes. Most places that install trailer hitches can probably help with the hitch the wiring harness and the brake controller
  • THANK YOU!!! I've been searching for a week on what could be an economical fix and thanks to your info I too was able to workaround the horn issue in my 2003 Montero Limited.

    Very happy to get the horn back and still pass inspection without being out a lot of money!
  • it the o2 senor that why is doing it
  • go to autozone or pepboy they will have it n could be o2 senor to have that checked it happen to me
  • Can you pleeaaaasssee contact us? We are having the same problem and are clueless on how to proceed...need to get inspection ASAP....thanks!
  • No way I'm drilling holes and splicing wires.... Isn't there an easier way? Is there an easy way to check the horn relay?
  • Was wondering if you ever had this problem fixed and what it turned out being! Just bought a 2001 and it is doing the exact same thing!!
  • Just purchased a 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Sport 4x4, it has 136000 miles on it already. I know buying a used car you always get what you pay for and then some!! We thought it was a great family car... now when you drive around 20-50 mph she begins to shudder like she can't find the right gear than you hear this racket that sounds like when you drive over the wake up strips on the highways (we don't have those so I know it's not actually that, just sounds like it). Took it to the mechanic he said it was showing a catalytic error code. I am wondering though if this is the catalytic converter or a sensor tricking the converter into thinking it is bad.
  • grolngroln Posts: 1
    I was washing my 02 Montero Sport AWD and i lean against the shift switching it from AWD to the neutral postion, now i cant place it in any of the postion... the vehicle drives well but i just cant get it to go into 4H or 4L or AWD it just wont go its like its disconnected or jammed. has anyone had a problem like this?
  • It was the oxigen sensor on the catalyctic coverter system...The system has 4, it was the first one, before the catalyctic . $ 48.00 for the sensor
  • Hi i have the same problem have you figured it out yet?? i replaced the water pump belts, fuel filter, fuel regulator, fuel pump, plugs, oil, air filter ect. lol cant fig it out?? 2000 montero sport 3.0 v6 130,000 miles 2wd
  • Definitely airbag. I found lots of used ones on ebay for about $25-35. Fixed mine after 3 years of getting up at night to disconnect the fuse. (it'd go months between issues.) Even replaced the clock spring. Definitely airbag
  • I had to replace the transmission control module computer, but it is serialized to another computer, so had to replace both, at about $2500 just to drive again. darn mitsubishi.
  • my mechanic haad a local machine shop MAKE several parts for mine because the ONLY option is to replace the entire transfer case, more than these old trucks are worth. darn mitsubishi.
  • I have a very loud knock that randomly appears at startup, the always goes away, sometimes in 20 seconds, or 5 minutes. Replaced all front end parts including timing belt components and water pump. The noise became less frequent after this. Could it be the timing belt shroud/housing just rattling? It is definitely more common when the weather and motor is cold, but also very random. I have driven 40,000 since this first started.
  • My SUV has 124,000 miles on it. The Check Engine Light came on, car very slow to accelerate & when pressing on gas pedal AND even when car is idling at red light it vibrates left to right and/or shudders like I'm driving over a bunch of speed bumps. It feels like the car will stall, but doesn't. I just had spark plugs/wires replaced, oil change, tires rotated ($500.). Over the last 2 years, I've had OS2 sensor replaced, all belts & hoses replaced, Drive belt replaced, oil pan re-sealed....spent thousands.
    I just picked up my car from mechanic yesterday & it drove fine for 8 miles, it worked great. When I drove it hours later-to go to work, the problem came back but not as severe, Check Engine light came on, car hesitates to accelerate, shakes when idling at red light. I don't have money to keep replacing things & want to get to the nitty gritty. Anyone heard of this or know of a "real" solution?
  • Car has 124,000 miles on it. It is idling rough when I am sitting at a red light, then feels like it's going to stall, but doesn't. Also when idling it starts to shake back & forth like I'm running over a bunch of speed bumps...this is while I'm not moving.
    At 35-40 mph the car starts to shake, and has a hard time accelerating, but does. Once I'm going 45 mph & above, the problems go away and it feels like it's running fine.
    I just had the car at the mechanics for this problem and they replaced spark plugs, wires, did oil change & rotated tires. The problem still exists.
    Over the last 2 years I've had the OS2 sensor replaced, oil seal (was leaking oil), replaced all hoses & belts, including drive belt & timing belt, fuel induction service, replaced gasket, crank seal, 2 front cam seals, a/c belt alternator & OT belt, p/s belt
    I've spent thousands keeping this thing running. I'm trying to avoid having the transmission replaced, since I've read on some blogs that this didn't solve the problem. I'm only getting information of what Doesn't fix the problem, and I'm looking for the "Fix" that will fix the problem. I want to start with inexpensive fixes first, since money is a problem right now. I am open to all suggestions. Thank you. :cry:
  • place your parking brake on turn off the fan,radio,lights etc put in neutral hold the gas peddle down for about 4 to 5 mins then put on lights radio ,ects repeat once or twice and car should learn its idle bye about 10 to 15 min, when your putting the gas peddle down only too about 1and 1%2 on the tac maybe 2 grand ,it will shut off about 3 times then hold its own after this put it in park and you should be all set after you get it too idle in neutral place on lights and flashers heater any electrical too watch tac rev up on its own too adjust for increase in power
  • mmgoebemmgoebe Posts: 2
    I have same problem. It only occurs after the vehicle has sat overnight or more (cold engine). If you immediately shut off the engine after starting, and then promptly restart, does the noise go away ? Mine goes away on restart. I only have the problem when the engine is cold. - Mike
  • Yes, a restart will always be silent, unless the weather is below maybe 30o, then only sometimes it goes away.
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