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Buick LeSabre Engine help



  • khh3khh3 Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 buick lesabre, here's my problem, first of all let me add this, new fuel filter was installed, fuel pressure was checked, and was in parameters. So my problem is, the car starts fine, idles fine. On the highway and on city streets, when stepping of the gas, the car boggs down step down further, and more so, let up slightly and its ok. I was treating the fuel with star tron, and used recommended amounts and it cleared up for sometime, now I am back to the bogging down when stepping on the gas, and the fuel treatment no longer works. Have any Ideas? please help!
  • Just got this Lasabre about a week ago. 1995, 89,000 miles. It has the 3.8 V6. It seems to have been well maintained. Incredible cosmetic condition!

    It starts on 1st turn of the key and runs very smooth.

    I do hear some engine knocking, sounds like it is coming from somewhere on the top end passenger side. The knocking starts when I put it in drive.

    I also have an oil leak from somewhere, it is also on the passenger side. I got underneath and cleaned around the oil pan and oil filter but the leak is coming from somewhere above. I didn't see any leakage around the head covers.

    I am having a hard time locating where the oil is coming from. Any ideas on how to narrow it down?

    Thanks in advance

  • bob252bob252 Posts: 48
    Hi Doug, I just sent my 95 to a new home with 250000 mi on it, For your oil leak, LOOK just above the filter (oil) and you will see the oil pressure sending unit, it costs about $8...and from what you described I'll bet that is it. A very easy job, take off the right front wheel and remove the rubber splash guard (it has little plastic pins that look like a nail head,use diagonal cutters) DIKES gently go under the nail head and pry upward to remove them. They will come out in two pieces, then start the engine and check for the leakwhere the wire connects. Check Autozone for the best price if one is near you, as for the knock well that is pretty much impossible to guage without hearing it. you can e me at rsa2500@hotmail if you need more info. I can only hope that it never ran without any oil in it.But if it only knocks when put in gear then it probably is not the engine..Hope this helps Bob.
  • Bob,

    Thanks for the info I will check out the oil sensor.

    I don't know the history of the engine, but it runs smooth no hitches at any speed and no smell of hot or burning oil coming from anywhere. I got the car for song and have another I drive regularly so I can take my time with the LaSabre. Took it for a small road trip to Fresno (about 800 miles round trip) the ride was so smooth all my passengers abandon me to sleep!

    I will let you know the outcome of the oil sensor

  • dewc3dewc3 Posts: 35
    I am looking for a diagram for the 1997 buick lasabre engine. Also my oil pressure is pretty much nothing and hitting the red line, I was told by several mechanics and including the dealer that oil pumps rarely go out in that buick but they suggested that I take off the oil filter, then remove either 2 bolts or 4 bolts and underneath that is something called a by pass valve or also by the name of oil pressure regulator valve, the dealer calls it a by pass valve, has anyone ever heard this, but most of all I need a diagram of the buick lasabre 3800 engine
  • dewc3dewc3 Posts: 35
    I was just wondering do I have to lift the engine in any way to take off the oil pan to replace the gasket on a 1997 buick lasabre 3.8 engine. The way I can see it is there is like to bolts that come off to get some kind of guard off so I can see the remaining 2 bolts on the backside of the oil pan, otherwise I see the other 18 bolts. Also I have replaced something called the bypass valve or " oil regulator vale" that is located inside the oil filter housing. You take off the oil filter & then there are 4 bolts to take off, the the by pass valve is in there spring loaded. The valve looks like a socket that has been hollowed out best I can describe it, but my question to that is I replaced that valve and oil pressure was great, then I drove around for a little bit then the pressure dropped down to like it was in the red before when I had to stop driving it. But I guess my question to this valve thing is COULD the spring be bad to where it is not pushing the valve back and forth like it should be doing because the valve appears to be jammed again inside the oil filter housing and the spring doesn't appear to be doing its job as well. ALso is it tru the the oil pump either works or it doesnt by the dealer and auto stores as well. I was able to drive 4 miles before the pressure dropped back down since i replaced this bypass valve :cry:
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 48
    Hi No need to lift engine, remove the splash guard from the starter, remove the bolts and twist the pan to remove the oil pick up (2 bolts) and the pan will fall down. The pan gasket from the 95 that I own was reusable and a thick plastic one. You need to remove that splash guard to access the bolts in that area, you do not need to remove the starter....Hope this helps.
  • dewc3dewc3 Posts: 35
    Thankyou for your reply. I am going to replace the spring that goes behing the bypass valve which all that is behind the housing. You take off the oil filter, then remove 4 bolts, then that will come off and there is a little valve that looks somewhat like a socket and a spring goes in behind that. Then I am replacing the oil pickup tube with a new one along with a new gasket. Then I will see if I am able to get oil pressure, if not then any suggestions would be helpful as I would not think the oil pump itself would let a car run 4 miles then drop pressure, oil is not getting somewhere and Im hoping that replacing what im doing will resolve this. So my next question is when a oil pump is bad, will it work intermittingly or just NOT work at all, I was told it would just not work at all.
  • This is probably very simple.
    I have a '97 Regal with Plain Jane Kelly Springfield tires. Great tires, quiet, smooth, and I can drive any where in ice and snow.

    I cannnot drive my 2003 LeSabre in ice and snow. Tires.....Used Car "salesman" tells me they are new. They LOOK like good tread, etc. BUT the LeSabre is a heavier car (?) than my Regal and the LeSabre is useless in snow or ice. Dangerous is a better description.

    Would I be safe in buying new or similar tires for my LeSabre?
    Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • dewc3dewc3 Posts: 35
    Can someone tell me the necessary steps to replacing an oil pump in a 1997 buick lasabre limited with a 3800 series 2 engine, for example what tools needed and if timing chaing has to come off, so if there is someone that is 100% sure of the steps I need to take please respond as I dont have 700 bucks to take it to a garage and yes im mechanically inclined, just need the steps :sick:
  • I replaced the Fuel Pressure regulator my engine still runs the same to better!
  • niceride3niceride3 Posts: 17
    The garage or you, did not replace the wires?? Spark plug wires need replacing too at that interval.

  • I've changed wires's , new plugs double checked gap.060. Today the buick barely made it home from work! I used some fuel injector cleaner last week on a full tank that made it run better!
  • this buick is going to the shop!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,602
    Post back what they find is the problem please.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • orangeuporangeup Posts: 23
    I had my oil changed at one of those places (short on time) and they overfilled the oil by 1 1/4 inch (30 mm) on my 97 Buick LaSabre. I drove for 430 miles before I found out this was the case and now I have no oil pressure. I bought the book on this car and it literally says that the lack of oil pressure will cut of the fuel supply". I checked the fuel pressure and I have 46 Lbs on the rail at the Schrader valve which is 6 lbs over the mininum, but the car won't start but does turn over. I checked the ICM/coil/plugs, and the alternator and they all passed their tests. I now suspect the lack of oil pressure shuts down the fuel injectors through the ECM (the brain). Can anybody confirm this?
  • bob252bob252 Posts: 48
    Hey Mike, you're on the right track, the oil pressure switch is right near the oil filter, and is not an expensive part, in fact it may be the problem. You did not state about engine noise (rod/bearing knock) so if there is no noise you either have a bad fuel pump or the switch is bad. I had to change mine in my '95 due to it leaking (weeping) at 202,000 then at 220,000 in the middle of January (0f course) the fuel pump decided to quit, not fun in Mass. and 15 degrees out Try this when it is very quiet out, close the door and just turn the ignition on but don't crank it, listen for the whirr of the pump, they usualy get louder when they are tired. This will give you a start. My guess about the overfill has nothing to do with your situation as it may be the person used an even number of quarts, look at the specs in your owners manual, I believe it is 4 1/2 qts. not 5. Other things that can cause this problem are the crank sensor/cam positioning sensor as well. Start with the pressure switch an easy job.
  • orangeuporangeup Posts: 23
    Well, after I drained quart of oil the oil pressure came back but it still won't start. So much for the oil pressure theory blocking the operation of the fuel injectors. In fact I tried spaying some starting fluid into the manifold and got an ignition that scorched the hair off my forearm. Please everybody don't do this. Thank God me and the garage I am in survived. I was trying to test if the absense of fuel was the problem. Lets just say never mind trying to find it out that way. So, now what. It's got fuel pressure, it's got oil pressure, it's got spark, it's got Air, and it cranks over but it won't start. Anybody care to guess. I'll have to try that new crank sensor and its the timing but I'm not hopeful. Thanks for your time and thoughts on this.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,602
    You should be going through the basics.

    Take off a spark plug wire. Use an old plug or remove one of yours from the front. Put the plug on the metal part of the motor and have someone crank while you look for a hot blue spark.

    Check for injector pulsing by using a 197 running light bulb. The little ones about the size of a pencil with two wires on the side of the glass for contacts. Straighten the wires and put them into the injector connector for one of the inejctors. Have someone crank. Does the bulb flicker with the pulses.

    Check for camshaft rotation by looking into the oil filler opening while someone cranks the motor. Do you see the lifters rocking indicating the cam is turning.

    Get a fuel pressure gauge and connect it. Crank the motor and see what the pressure does.

    You say that you have spark. You didn't say how you verified it--I guess I see that the flashback was due to ignition... But if you have spark, your problem is not failure of the crankshaft position sensor.

    There is a jumper in the engine compartment for connecting battery voltage to the fuel pump to bypass the other relay for fuel pressure.

    Air. Fire. Fuel.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Does anybody have a good deal on the head lights and signal lights part,grill ,sub grill, front bumper,and right fender for a 1996 Buick LeSabre dark cherry.
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