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2010 Toyota Corolla

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Comments

  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    Due to the cash for clunkers, car dealers have very low inventories, so a lot of them are charging more $. I think I saw that the Corolla was the top seller in the cash for clunkers deals. So it is a little harder than normal to work with salespeople. Keep in mind that the 0% ends Tuesday, but they may or may not have on Wednesday. Like all makers, Toyota keeps this info quiet until Wednesday the 8th, when new incentives come out. The incentives could be better on the 8th, or worse - it is a gamble. Your price with the student rebate (which they normally run every month) seems reasonable, considering the current environment.
  • zin22zin22 Member Posts: 15
    Thats 15% off msrp another great deal ... Any rebates included in this ?Bochtoyota is the place to buy toyotas thats for sure nobody else is getting these deals.
    As I said earlier invoice is 8-9% off msrp depending on options but 13-15% is unheard of.Wish I was closer. :(
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    #7
    :shades:
  • zin22zin22 Member Posts: 15
    GREAT DEAL !!! Did you take the $500.00 rebate or the 0% interest?
    Enjoy your new ride the red looks sharp.
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,953
    Please knock it off...it's so hard to read and it is actually yelling in computer speak. And I think by the 7th identical post...we get it!

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Because it was YOUR $500.00 from YOUR rebate but you gave it to the dealer so you actually paid that $500.00. Really shouldn't be that hard to understand. It was still a fair deal for you and your dealer. Enjoy !
  • coffeemlkcoffeemlk Member Posts: 20
    The dealer gave me the $500 rebate up front so I didn't have to wait for it, he has to wait for it. With the $500 off, I paid 16398 net. I didn't pay for a rebate, I got it up front. Really shouldn't be that hard to understand.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I think what really matters here is that you got a fair deal on a car you really enjoy. The bottom line is what counts and not how you got there. But what the dealer really did was gave you his best price and then told you he was going to take your $500.00 rebate off this price and then just keep it. In reality his best price for your car was the price quoted after the rebate. The rebate was his bonus. When negotiating to purchase a new car the first thing to do is to throw MSRP out the window as they don't reflect much of anything. Start with what the dealer is actually paying for your car and the options you want. This is easily determined on sites like Edmunds.com. Add a holding, advertising and destination charge on to this dealer cost, if applicable to your area. Add you sales taxes and tags on. Allow the dealer to make about a $300.00/$400.00 profit. And you and he have a fair price. Rebates should be kept out of the negotiating process all together. The rebate should be yours directly from the manufacturer to you, not the dealer.
    Enjoy!
  • zin22zin22 Member Posts: 15
    You either get the $500.00 rebate or the 0% interest you don't get both correct? So in his case he took the 0% which means there is no $500.00 rebate going anywhere as far as I can see. The rebates are offered to buyers and he chose the 0% so the dealer doesn't get that rebate does he?
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Your correct, that's the way it's supposed to be. The buyer said there was a rebate involved though.
  • coffeemlkcoffeemlk Member Posts: 20
    Before August 3rd you got both, zero for 36 months plus a $500 rebate, "Toyota Summer Clearance Days." I signed a form to have the rebate go directly to the dealer and he took off the $500, which made the bottom line 16398. . Don't forget, this was before Cash for Clunkers and the inventory was much higher than it is now. The deals are not as good now because of low inventory.
  • zin22zin22 Member Posts: 15
    Very interesting I didn't know they ever offered both together that would be a sweet deal.
  • coffeemlkcoffeemlk Member Posts: 20
    Special Summer Drive SALE on the 2010 TOYOTA COROLLA S!
    Offer will expire Monday August 3, 2009

    Thank you for considering Boch Toyota South for your next vehicle purchase. Here is your Summer Drive Sales Event pricing special. I can sell this 2010 TOYOTA COROLLA S with an MSRP of $18,705 and Your Final Price will be $15,852 after the rebate and 0% financing. This is stock # XXXX.

    We have this vehicle in stock for immediate delivery. Take a look at the vehicle inquiry report below for the details. We also offer all our online customers home test drives and free delivery any where in the New England Area!!

    This price is valid for 72 hours. So, please call or e-mail back and let me know when you can make it in to finalize this deal. Or I can secure the vehicle and price over the phone with a credit card deposit if it is more convenient for you!

    Once again, we appreciate your consideration of Boch Toyota South and look forward to hearing back from you!

    Make Boch Toyota South your local dealer!

    (I blocked out my name and stock #)
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Yea, I hate that "after rebate"clause though. Basically all that's doing is jacking up your cost by $500.00 because he's keeping your rebate. That's why I say in reality you paid $16,898.00 His price would have been $16,898.00 without your $500.00 he's keeping.
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Member Posts: 6,953
    Coffee got the car for $16,898 but paid the dealer $16,398 to drive it away. He got the rebate on the car which lowered the price he would've paid by $500 dollars. Time to put this issue to bed now. Terceltom, agree or disagree, but Coffee is telling you what his drive away price was...end of story...time to move on guys!

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2023 Hyundai Kona Limited AWD (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2) / 2023 Subaru Impreza Base (son)

  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    "Coffee got the car for $16,898 but paid the dealer $16,398 to drive it away"

    Yea your correct, all that's been established already. Isn't that what I've been saying all along? Had the dealer not kept the buyers $500.00 rebate the buyer would have paid $16,898.00 .
  • zin22zin22 Member Posts: 15
    I still have to say there are no deals like this I have seen except @ Bochtoyota .
    Great deal and thanks for sharing.
  • wirelesslinkwirelesslink Member Posts: 5
    I bought a 2010 Corolla XLE in beginning of August 2009. It has larger/wider factory alloy rims/tires than the CE and most S models. I am sure this makes a huge difference in steering feel in comparison to the narrower tires on the CE and most S models. This is why XLE owners do not notice the wander as much.

    On my first 2 hour driving trip between Los Angeles and San Diego, I noticed the tendency for the car to drift. When I returned, I checked the tire pressure and found one rear tire to be a 1/2 lbs lower than the other tires. Letting the car sit overnight in a garage, I carefully adjusted the tire pressure to 32 lbs using a tire gauge to exactly the same visual spot on the gauge on all 4 tires. Steering confidence increased significantly. Now I check my tires weekly and I find I have to make minute corrections using my 12v cigarette-lighter electric tire inflator I carry in the trunk.

    I have always hated an out-of-align front-end. I think mine might be slightly out-of-align and I think this is what some car owners might be experiencing. I am not saying that the steering has the best characteristic, but exact tire pressure and out-of-alignment will magnify the tendency for the steering to have that wandering feel. Let's not forget wider tires can make a big difference on steering feel also.

    I am getting 39-40 mpg+ combined city/hwy, if I accelerate gradually and cruise at a leisurely 62 mph in the slow lane on the freeway. I think that if I drove all highway miles, my mpg would be higher. I use cruise control and take my foot off the gas and naturally de-accelerate if I know I will be decreasing speed for a turn, off ramp or stoplight. If I am in a hurry, drive quickly and cruise at 70mph, my mileage can drop to 36+ mpg. If you drive it like a Prius, you will be rewarded. Reset the trip gauge and the mileage computer settings at each fill-up and see if you can get 400+ miles per tank.

    I plan to use the 0w-20 synthetic oil for fuel efficiency, and maximum oil flow in the engine during start-up. Personally, I wouldn’t use the 5w-30, because the dealer said it was OK. Factory fill and Toyota’s bottled Ow-20 is a full-synthetic made for Toyota. I hear the additive package was specially developed. What could be better than a custom full synthetic oil.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I think I would have to agree 100 % with what you have said. I have a 2009 XLE with the larger/wider tires and with alloy wheels and I have been defending the EPS steering for over a year now. I experience none of the drift that I hear about on this forum. In fact, I just love the light feel of the steering and find it to be a wonderful innovation.
  • michelrsmichelrs Member Posts: 4
    I took a test drive in the 5-speed. I noticed the stick goes back to a "neutral" position after shifting. My other manuals, the stick stays in the position of the gear. On the Corolla, it looks like it's in 3rd, even if you're in 4th. :confuse: Is this normal? It felt weird at first, but I got used to it quickly. Other than that, shifting was smooth and easy.
    Thanks.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    HUH? If the shifter is moving, there is a big problem. I don't think it really was going back to a "neutral position" - I think you were just used to something different. If you got used to it and it felt fine and drove fine, then it is just that you are used to something different.

    The only complaints about the manuals are rev hang, and from what I read all manufacturers' manual transmission models have it to get the emissions better. Rev hang is when you take your foot off the accelerator to shift to the next higher gear, but the rpms still do not drop for a while, kind of like if you did not take your foot off the accelerator.

    Nice to see someone interested in manuals - I thought I was the only one!!!!
  • eldoboeldobo Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2010 Corolla S on 11/14 with the 4.9% APR deal. Now this week they moved to a 0% APR for the car. Do I have any leverage to go back to the dealer and request the new APR?
  • michelrsmichelrs Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply. What I'm used to (in my Jetta and Ion) is that when I go to say 4th or 5th gear, the shifter actually looks to be in 4th or 5th. In the Corolla it looks like it's in neutral or maybe 3rd, but it runs like it's in 4th or 5th. The shifter also moves freely back-and-forth once in gear, but that doesn't seem to mess up what gear it's in. Just a little confused, don't want to buy a new car with gear issues!
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    I have not heard or read about any problems with manual transmissions in Corollas or Camrys. As I said, the rev hang is there, but it is with all new manuals due to the emissions controls, from what I read. My new 2010 Camry 6 speed manual has the rev hang, but it is not a problem, especially once you get used to it.

    OK, yes, I understand what you are asking about looks, and that is just the difference in cars - all cars have different shifter set-ups, and they can feel different than others (and I'm sure look different too). I am still confused about "shifter also moves freely back-and-forth once in gear, but that doesn't seem to mess up what gear it's in." It should not move by itself at all, or maybe just a tiny bit (like a 1/16 inch or less back and forth as you press on the gas and then release it).
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    Check with TFS as soon as possible and tell them your story it cant hurt.

    http://www.toyotafinancial.com

    Good Luck
    MNF
  • michelrsmichelrs Member Posts: 4
    I'm going for another drive in another car on Monday. If it's the same as this one, I'll assume all is fine.
    It's just that I've driven manuals all my life (here and in Europe) and have never encountered anything like this before. I was a little confused about how it felt.
    I'll keep you posted.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    No
  • michelrsmichelrs Member Posts: 4
    The original dealer called today, saying what I'm experiencing is normal. It's the same as in the Rav4. It's designed that way to easier go from gear to gear. I had a look at another S today (no time to drive), and the stick behaves the way I'm used to. If it's in 4th gear, it looks to be in 4th gear, not neutral.
    Going back to the original dealer tonight. I'll have another feel/look and see what the story is
  • jeffostemajeffostema Member Posts: 1
    2010 Corolla with 4500 miles. I notice that the idle is rough when I first start the car and when I stop for a traffic light. However, the idle is only rough when the headlamps are OFF (regardless of 'auto-on' or manual) With the lamps on, it idles right around 800 RPMs. When off, it drops to 600 and will sometimes fall below 600 for a second and then surge back up. Any thoughts. I'm brining it for an oil change next week and don't want the service writer to think I'm off my rocker when I tell him the problem. Thanks
  • mikeanwamikeanwa Member Posts: 2
    I jsut got 2010 Corolla, and was bit confused when the color option came. There are so many cool color. But in my case I couldn't choose my color..which was black. Dealer reduced the price and made the deal with a Red one. I've never thought of Red..not even in dream. But saved money and when I saw the can next morning on my driveway...loved it.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    I chose Barcelona Red for my wife's "09" XLE and she loves it.
  • sks39sks39 Member Posts: 1
    I seem to be having the same issue without the rough idle on start (that I've noticed). Have you heard anything from the dealer when you got your oil changed? I'll try with the headlights on and see what I encounter.

    Thanks.
  • roscarosca Member Posts: 8
    Got my 2010 Corolla LE from the dealer on Monday and drove in the night. Had bunch of stuff transferred from the old car to this one; I was hearing some rattling noise from the back of the car while driving but assumed that it is coming because some of the stuff is loose in the trunk. Today moved everything out and the noise would not go away. So I starting tapping the trunk from the inside and it seems that there is some manufacturing issue; even while standing, if I tap it lightly, it makes the same rattling noise (which is very very annoying). So question: Has any one else had a similar experience? What are my options with this? Is this something that is covered under Toyota's warranty?
  • garo3garo3 Member Posts: 2
    I notice a distinct downshift when I let off the pedal at about 20-25 mph and it continues until engine reaches 1000 rpm then it lets go and freewheels. It's not a hard downshift, but still very noticeable. Does anyone know if this is normal?
  • garo3garo3 Member Posts: 2
    I noticed that oil changes on this car are not going to be as easy as my 06 was. Do you have to jack the car up to reach the filter housing??
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    There is no reason why the oil changes in your new Corolla should be any more difficult than your 2006. I have an 2001 and a 2009 (same set-up as your 2010) and my 2009 is no more difficult than my 2001. You certainly do not have to jack up the car. The filter housing is easily reached from underneath. Why do you feel it's going to be harder?
    By the way, could your rattle be from the attachent of the license plate attached? Sometimes they rattle if they are not seated firmly against the body.
  • roscarosca Member Posts: 8
    The rattle is definitely coming from the trunk and was there even when I had no plates (I just got mine yesterday). Also, I stopped the car, lifted the trunk, and tapped the area near the edge of the back mirror (from the inside of the trunk); doing this created the same noise that I hear when I drive the car. So my guess is that it is manufacturing issue (or something else).
  • canuckrolla123canuckrolla123 Member Posts: 12
    I had a 2002 Corolla previously. Over 300,000km and no major repairs at all. In market for a new 2010 Corolla and went for CE with top option package (power windows, etc.).

    Notice the CE model does not have "variable" intermitten wipers. My 2002 Corolla CE has variable intermittent wipers. Can't believe Toyota took such a useful feature away.

    Can one change the wiper stalk for one with variable intermittent controls? Has this ever been done?
  • canuckrolla123canuckrolla123 Member Posts: 12
    With all the new electronics on the new 2010 Corolla, is it worthwhile to buy an extended warranty? I figure more electronics, more can go wrong (senors, etc.).

    The basic warranty is 60,000/3 years. I do put on about 30,000km a year. At the rate I drive, the warranty will be up within 2 years.
  • canuckrolla123canuckrolla123 Member Posts: 12
    I read the professional reviews and some of the user feedback on the new 2010 Corolla. As a result I had certain expectations based on some of the less positive comments.

    In the first days of driving, I noticed the engine had a very faint but noticeable whine to it. This had me worried a bit because of some of the comments here. But after a bit of driving within the first 100km, the whine went away. The engine was as I had come to expect of my previous Corolla's, quiet. Idling was quiet as well.

    Avoided quick starts and hard stops during the first 300km. Made sure to use a mix of speeds from 40km/hr to 90km/hr (mostly stayed to under 80km/hr). Car runs smoothly.

    I was most curious about the electronic steering. On the very first day or two I thought I may have fidgeted slightly with the steering wheel. These were very extremely minute movements which I wouldn't even be aware of if not for reading some of the comments posted here. After a couple hundered kilometers more I barely even notice anything. I had driven a Chevy Cobalt rental for a week which also has electronic power steering so I knew what to expect. I didn't notice much of anything different as far as steering is concerned. The only time I noticed anything is when the car was stationary and I turned the steering wheel with great ease (a loose feeling). While the car is moving it felt like any other car I've driven previously.

    I like the interior layout of the CE base model (automatic with enhanced option package). It's clean and nicely laid out. Armrest could be more forward. The little flip pocket (to hold parking passes, etc.) on the driver side is a bit low compared to my previous Corolla. I accidentally had it open and knocked my shin into it while getting into the car. Last time I'll forget to flip that little door up and closed (reality is I'll likely do it again a couple of times over the next few years). It was not an issue when that compartment was placed higher up. The higher position is now occupied by a couple of buttons (on my CE there are 2 active buttons and 2 blank ones....will use one of the blank ones to place my car alarm on light).

    Neat thing about the radio is the AUX plug for hooking up an iPod. Worse thing is it no longer has a clock. The clock is placed very low down. While driving you would have to take your eyes off the road and look down to see it....it's that low. I have no idea who thought to put the clock down there! Why?? The clock is one of the tools I use a lot of...I check it for the time quite a bit in some situations.

    The trunk is big...bit bigger than the one on my 2002 Corolla. It holds 3 tires on rims easily. I'll have to go look at it again to be sure (there are 3 tires in there right now).

    Neat little feature which was a bit annoying until I found out how it worked. When you click on the remote, only the driver's door opens. The other 3 doors stay locked. Someone informed me that was designed purposely to do that for safety reasons (I'm not sure about that but makes sense). According to this person anyways, if you need to open the driver door quickly to get inside because of an unsafe situation, the other doors stay locked for security reasons. To open all 4 doors you need to engage the remote button a bit longer or twice (forget now). Interesting anyway.

    I also notice there is a longer recommended interval between oil changes even for the FIRST oil change after the break-in period. I seem to recall the FIRST oil change came early on the 2002 Corolla due to engine parts breaking in etc. On the 2010 the interval before the FIRST oil change is the same as for the rest of the oil changes. I wonder what new technology now permits such a long time before you need to change the oil after the break-in period.

    The break-in period is different as well from the 2002 Corolla. In the 2010 manual there is no mention about keeping the car under a certain speed within a given period of the break-in time. It just mentions to avoid hard starts and stops during the first 300km. Some precaution about not doing any towing during the break-in period. And for the first 1,600km to avoid "excessive" high speeds. Is 120 km/hr excessive?? Also for the first 1,600km to not drive at the same speed for long periods of time.

    As a Toyota owner (Tercel and 2 previous Corolla CE) I am happy with the new 2010 model with the exception of the clock (I would like to know what the person who decided to put the clock that low down on the dash was thinking (or not). I like how it was done previously where the clock display came on after a few seconds tuning into a radio station. Besides, there's plenty of room on the radio display for a clock. Having the clock placed so low is dangerous if one needs to glance at it while driving. Maybe this will be fixed in the next generation of the Corolla.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Well I think that happens to quite a few people. They read a couple of critical reviews about a car, then when they purchase this car they actually believe that their car has these problems or concerns also. I guess when you buy a car you should have an open mind because everyones opinion of a certain car can be different.

    Is the "great ease" of turning your steering wheel a plus for you or is the "loose feeling" a negative?

    When you say the clock is located "very low" where exactly is your clock? On my new Corolla it's incorporated right into the left side odometer button.

    Aren't most cars set -up where the doors require a two button push of the remote to open all doors? I really like this function. If my wife is driving alone and wants to open her doors to enter her vehicle she is only opening her door, and not allowing anyone else to get into her vehicle univited with her. She might be parked in a parking lot with someone lurking in a parked car along side of her on the passenger side just waiting for her to open up to jump inside with her.

    Don't really believe they call it a break-in period any longer. I think most reasonably driving people would be fine just driving their normal way from day one. The longer oil change intervals can be attributed to the synthetic motor oil being used.

    Just love my newest addition to my toyota family of cars and hope you do as well. Good Luck with your new Rolla!
  • coffeemlkcoffeemlk Member Posts: 20
    I agree 100% with terceltom, if I hadn't read about steering complaints with the Corolla, I would never had thought twice about it. No problems here.
  • greatlakesjrgreatlakesjr Member Posts: 109
    This is good information for me. I currently drive a ’98 Accord but looking to upgrade and the Corolla is tops on my list. I’ve briefly driven one and know how it feels inside. At 6’1” late 40’s, I’m fine with it though my wife is a little nervous getting something smaller. Before the Accord we had a ’94 Civic that she thought was too small, especially getting into and out of (she has a bad knee). Thing is, I’m going to be driving it alone 90% of the time and care quite a bit about gas mileage (38 mile round trip commute) so I want smaller. Anyone feel “cramped” in the car or have trouble hauling what you want to haul (e.g. golf clubs)? Someone mentioned the trunk space is pretty good. I currently get 28mph in the winter and about 31-32 in the summer. I drive pretty conservatively and figure I could stretch a Corolla to about 40mph on my usual freeway commute. Thanks
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Member Posts: 1,722
    The clock's location was moved for the 2010. Many people complained about it being in the odometer I think because it is a shared display (you have to toggle to the clock if you have one. Also, the other people in the car could not see it. Fortunately, Toyota responded, but the only place it could go is I think below the climate controls. You can bet the next generation will move it back up to the middle top of the dash.
  • canuckrolla123canuckrolla123 Member Posts: 12
    Just an update. I spoke too soon about engine noise. Late yesterday and today I could hear the engine 'growling' each time I started up from a dead stop to 40km/hr. I don't recall my 2002 Corolla sounding like that.

    Call me silly or what...maybe a tad paranoid perhaps.....but I only noticed the noise starting late last night. Someone had the car for about 2 minutes. I don't imagine someone could do somthing to it in that short amount of time to affect an engines noise. Nah.

    Funny thing is I did not notice the noise up to late last night. I suppose people's perception can't always be relied upon as many factors can come into play (sound of the climate control system affecting perception of noise, etc.).

    Having said that, I could almost swear I did not hear the same kind of 'growling' previously. Except for the very faint whine that went away as I broke the car in the initial 300km, the car was very quiet after that. My 2002 Corolla was like that as well. But now, I am very aware of the engine growling moving from a dead stop as at a traffic light. I mean, the sound is very noticeable. For the life of me, I don't know how this noise escaped my attention before.

    To Terceltom: My 2002 Corolla CE opened all 4 doors when I pressed the remote.

    As for the placement of the clock in the 2010 CE, it is like almost at the bottom of all the controls....let's say almost at seat level. You'd definitely need to take your eye off the road and look down to read the clock. Gee, hurts even more to read that the clock placement was changed starting with the 2010 models. I'd actually prefer it even in the odometer area as mentioned...at least you can still keep your eye on the road that way. Best of all was the way it was on the 2002, on the radio display. A quick glance was all that was needed.

    As for the electronic steering, it is a non issue for me. That's how much I would notice any difference. Is it good or bad.......if I don't notice it, then it's good and not an issue.

    As for the oil change interval being longer, I think many people are still using regular oil and not synthetic. I don't suppose Toyota can recommend the longer oil change interval based on that. The oil in my brand new 2010 is regular motor oil and not synthetic (I will use synthetic after). However, I will likely just get an oil change (regular oil) at about 3,000km. Then after 8,000km when the "first recommended oil change" is scheduled...I'll then switch to synthetic.
  • 10corollabase10corollabase Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem, and I bought mine on the 31st of 09. It rattles quite a bit on slightly rough roads and at certain RPMs (I have a base with a 5-speed). I tapped on the roof of the trunk (from inside of the trunk just below the center brake light), and heard the same sound. I bet its some plastic electrical connector that is loosely mounted or not mounted at all that's vibrating against the metal (near the trunk light). I have to do some further investigation to pinpoint the source. It may require a trip to the dealer or the simple use of a screwdriver and some foam rubber. Let me know if you come up with anything.
  • terceltomterceltom Member Posts: 1,024
    Check the license plate and the little black trunk release cable holders that are mounted on the trunk support arms.
  • canuckrolla123canuckrolla123 Member Posts: 12
    Went to a local hardware/automotive retailer and saw this very small and light car clock. Cost is about $5. It is small, very light and the right colour too (if your dash colour is black). I hope it lasts a long time but at $5 each, I'll get a few more just in case. It has an adhesive backing (clock is very small so the adhesive patch is small as well) with velcro. Only quibble is that the clock face is not lighted but can still be easily viewed from dawn until it's dark outside. Now I can glance at the clock without having to take my eyes off the road.

    Here is a picture of the clock. Looks giantic on the website but it's very small in actuality. Don't go by the package measurements listed on the site.
    http://www.bellautomotive.com/asp/product_details.asp?id=24529

    My 2010 Corolla is breaking in nicely. I am quite happy with all the new features on the car. It's a lot more features than I got on the 2002 CE for about the same price or actually less. A happy Corolla owner.
  • sammy_tosammy_to Member Posts: 1
    Hi canuckrolla,

    Congratulations on your new car; hope it gives you as good a service as your last one.

    I'm currently in the same position as you (own a 2002 Corolla LE and thinking of buying a 2010 model) and was wondering if you could answer a couple of questions I had.

    First, I live in Toronto and we get our fair share of windy days. My 2002 Corolla, being with a low center of gravity and a slim profile, doesn't give me much trouble in the wind (and is noticeably more stable in those conditions than the 2003 model we also have). I'm wondering if you've driven your 2010 Corolla in the wind yet and, if so, how does it compare to the 2002 model?

    The second point I wanted to ask is about steering feel. I know you said that steering on the 2010 was fine in terms of directional stability on the highway, but do you feel the road texture through the steering wheel? While no sports car by any stretch, I can "read" the road through the steering wheel of my 2002 model reasonably clearly, which is very useful in winter since I can sense when the front wheels start slipping because of ice early enough to make the necessary adjustments and avoid further slipping. I can't count the times this has helped me avoid crashes.. How do you think the 2010 model compares in this regard?

    Thanks!
  • roscarosca Member Posts: 8
    Well, I took it to the dealer and he agrees that there is some noise. He has asked me to come to him when I have more time so that he can look at it for a couple of hours. Lets see if something good happens. Keep me posted if you end up resolving it earlier.

    Thanks
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