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2010 Toyota Corolla



  • Not that this information is 100% accurate, but it does look like Toyota is delaying the release of the 2011 Corolla until December. As far back as I can recall, this hasn't happened before with the Corolla. Toyota usually begins assembling the new model year in early March and cars reach dealer lots in April. Here is some information about the 2011 model:
  • It looks like Toyota will be building the Corolla at a new plant in Mississippi. Here is a news article discussing it. Production will not begin until the fall, which could explain the delay of the 2011 model year.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Yesterday I received my recall notice for my floor mat recall. Not quite sure what they are going to do though. I suspect they're going to give me new floor mats. The recall notice states that "Toyota will modify the floor surface in the driver's foot well as well as the pedal itself". I already had the wedge put into the pedal at a separate recall. It also states if the optional "all weather floor mats" are of the older style they will replace them on the passenger side and the drivers side free of charge. The only part that concerns me is the "modification of the pedal and the foot well".
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Talked to a buddy of mine who works at my local Toyota dealership. I asked him about the TSB for the evaporator replacement. He said while the TSB states the the replacement job takes 4.5 hours to complete he said it's more like a 6 hour job as the whole dash has to be removed first just to get to the evaporator. So I guess I'm going to live with this odor for about 30 seconds when I first turn on my A.C. rather than have my whole car torn apart for the replacement. He did give me the Petro A/C Chemical cleaner that most Toyota dealers use and sell to try on my car. They'll do it for you for about $60.00 but really, it only takes about 30 minutes of your time to do it yourself. The only drawback is you have to crawl halfway under the car to get to the A/C drain hose. This is a two can foam system; you shoot half the can up the rubber A.C. drain hose into the evaporator. After it turns to a liquid and drains out you repeat with the second half of the can. After that, you use the smaller 6 oz. can to totally disinfect the air intake and ductwork. I did this last night, I'll post about my success with this or not.
  • My 04 Corolla had this same problem with the AC odor. Last summer before I traded it, dealer suggested I have the AC system charged and deodorized, but I never did as the AC always blew cold air. I'm assuming this is common with most Toyotas or all cars equipped with AC? As you mentioned, the odor goes away quickly once the air is turned on. I also notice this with my 2010 Avalon as well. There is a faint mildew or moldy smell initially, when the AC is turned on.

    As for your post about the pedal and floor modification for the separate recall, I just had this done on my Avalon yesterday. I went in for my first oil change and the service advisor notified me of the second phase of the recall. I never received an official notice from Toyota, but the dealer said they could perform the fix for the recall. I don't notice any modifications with the carpet or carpet pad in my Avalon. The Avalon has carpet pad under the carpet for extra soundproofing (I assume for this reason). Nothing looks to be modified on the floor, just the pedal itself has been trimmed on the bottom portion (corners) of the pedal. They also installed the brake override system, which shuts the engine down when the brake and accelerator are pressed at the same time. With the oil change and recall fix, it took about 2 1/2 hours. Originally they told me only one hour. I peeked through window of where the service bays are and two technicians were working on my car for the recall fix.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Thanks for the info.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Wow what a difference! A few days after using the Petro A/C cleaner the odor is all gone. This is the two can system most dealers use and can be purchased from them for around $15.00. Note: you will have to get under the passenger side of the car to attach the provided hose to the A/C drain. Well worth the money.
  • I'm driving a 2009 Corolla XRS and recently noticed this same rattle coming from trunk area. Not sure why I didn't notice it earlier but probabaly because I usually have tunes playing. Checked license plate, wires, cables. Even placed weather stripping under trunk floor cover covering spare tire as it was making contact with bare metal. Have had it to the dealer 3 times now. 2nd and 3rd time it went to a body shop I'm told to have some welding done in the trunk area where there were some spot welds that had come undone apparently. Rattle still persists and is very annoying. I was hoping by searching this and other forums, someone may have found a solution to a similar problem. I'm taking it to the dealer again next week for another test drive with the service manager. Would like to get this resolved before the warranty runs out in 5 months.
  • I too have been having rattling problems with my Corolla!

    I bought the 2010 Corolla with 9500 miles on it last summer (original warranty intact). I have brought it to the dealership 5 times for a rattle in the driver side B-pillar. I have also complained because I found that there was a dent removed from the driver side door and I was displeased with discovering several small bumps from the tool used to remove the dent. I have a feeling that the two are related somehow. When I was shown the Carfax the report was clean (no-accident history).

    My car has been at the dealership for over a week now and each time I call they say they cannot figure out the rattle. They can hear it, though.

    I'm starting to get rather worried. What are my options if they claim they cannot solve the rattle? Can I demand they buy the car back, trade it in for a similar vehicle, give me a good price on a trade-in...? I need to know because this is absolute b.s. and I refuse to accept an "irreparable" 2010 Corolla with an excessive and unnatural rattle I dropped $15k on (and bought new tires for!!) just a few months ago.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    You can demand but I doubt if they'll comply ! Did you try another dealer? Warranty is good at all Toyota dealerships.
  • sandman_6472sandman_6472 Coral Springs, FLPosts: 4,174
    I'm assuming the car is drivable...correct? Is there any safety issues with it? Has it ever left you stranded by the side of the road? The only issue you have is a "rattling" issue, correct? Annoying yes, but the car is working as promised. Doubt they'll take this car back for a "rattling noise" but I'd suggest trying another dealer whose techs might have better luck finding the area that's touching something else. Understand your frustration...having a similar noise issue from the right front of my kids Versa which they can't seem to duplicate. After 3 tries...nothing, but it's been documented so when the warranty ends and they eventually find something, we'll be covered.

    Annoying none the lesss, just as your situation must be.

    The Sandman :) :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2009 Nissan Versa SL Hatch (daughter #1) / 2008 Hyundai Accent GLS (daughter #2)

  • I read the measurements for the Corolla and Civic and they're similar; we have an 06 Civic. I cannot get comfortable in the 10 Corolla; my back hurts, my shoulders hurt, even my hands hurts and I'm only 5'5". Something is just not right. It's like I'm squeezed into a tiny box. We've had two previous Corollas and never had this problem.
  • You're not off your rocker, Jeff. I have a 2010 Corolla LE (1.8 L, auto) that behaves in exactly the same manner. I purchased it used about 16 months ago, and have noticed the same issue with rough idle. I drive this car on the highway generally so it's a minor annoyance, but here's what I've observed:

    With A/C on (in summer months): Issue never appears. Idle is consistently 800 to 900 RPM.

    With A/C off: Idle is normal (800 to 900 RPM) unless the brake is depressed enough to turn on the brake lamps. I backed up to a reflective surface so that I could observe the brake lamps, put the car into [D], and set the parking brake to keep it from moving. While depressing the brake pedal very slowly, the idle consistently falls to a shuddering 500-600 RPM as soon as the brake lamps illuminate. When the pedal is released slowly, the idle returns to normal as soon as the brake lamps go back off. Turning on the headlamps causes an immediate return to normal in the idle speed with the brake depressed.

    Discussion: The engine control unit (ECU) certainly controls idle speed, probably in a quasi-closed-loop fashion. The ECU knows if the A/C compressor is operating, if the brake is depressed, what gear the transmission is in, and so forth. On the Corolla the ECU must also be reading the state of the headlamps. This car is also equipped with vehicle stability control (VSC), which is essentially an augmented 4-channel ABS system (probably powered by an electrical hydraulic pump). My guess is that there is either an unaccounted for errant/ signal wiring path, engine load from the VSC system, or firmware defect (or wrong calibration constant) in the ECU that is leading to this trouble. The engine is properly compensating for load factors such as A/C and headlamps on, but failing to maintain idle with A/C off and brakes on. I've seen others mentioning this about related Toyota models, so I'm guessing it's more common that you think. Goes to show you that there's a lot more happening under the hood of your car than the average shade tree mechanic could even dream of 20+ years ago.

    Concerns: (1) Idle dropping low enough to stall is a safety issue in city traffic. (2) Low idle speed is not healthy for an engine, and could impair lubrication if the oil pressure is consistently falling below acceptable levels.

    I've got some local control systems experts in KC that I can consult with...I'll bring this to them to see what they think.
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