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All-New 2010 Legacy/Outback



  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,000
    edited July 2010
    My '69 Ford Econoline's steering box also has a lot of play, though I have been told how to tighten it up (and have yet to do so!). That thing is an automatic (C4), but it is also one heck of a workout to drive... especially at low speeds! With no power-boosted brakes and no power steering, it is a whole different animal than your everyday road vehicle. I sure love that ugly old beast! :blush:

    I have only driven a couple of vehicles with "three-on-the-tree" shifters (a '47 Chevrolet sedan and a '66 Galaxie). They were... interesting... to drive, but I did not think the shifting experience was nearly as engaging as a floor-mounted shifter.

    And, on that note, I sure would like to see a real, definitive fix for that steering vibration problem on the 10 Outbacks! :D
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 694
    My '69 Ford Econoline's steering box also has a lot of play, though I have been told how to tighten it up (and have yet to do so!).

    I wonder if that is the same Ross steering gear box that I had on my 1965 Mustang.? I tighted mine up after about four years of use, but the result was lumpy steering with still a little too much play. That was the same infamous gearbox used on the Falcon. My partner still shakes the steering wheel from side to side from too many years driving a Falcon. :confuse:
  • redrose1redrose1 Posts: 49
    We just got a brand new 2011 Outback 3.6.

    We love the car but are having a couple of issues. First, when we release the brake pedal there is a clunking noise. The dealer says they need to change a part - already?! The car is 2 weeks old! I hope it solves our problem.

    Also, when we drive with the sun roof open, the noise is deafening. Would anyone know if a deflecter would help stop this noise? Any other suggestions?

    Thanks so much!

  • nmdrivernmdriver Posts: 23
    2010 Legacy GT Premium with Nav. No satellite.
    When the weather is cool this particular car bathes the interior with RF radiation in the X and Ka band radar frequencies. The emissions are coming from just to the left of the speaker grill on the top of the dash. It is like driving in a microwave oven. The problem happens when the dash is cool, so it is a permanent condition in cooler months. Goes away when the dash gets warm in warmer weather.
    All I asked was that Subaru help me track down the source of the problem so that we could replace whatever is causing the problem. But, over the past seven months, Subaru America’s reaction has alternated between unbelievable hostility and completely ignoring me. They have even yelled at me on the phone for using “non Subaru-approved devices” (4 different Valentine radar detectors, 2 Escorts and one lab device) to measure the radiation. I have never been treated so shabbily by ANY manufacturer. After 17 years of owning Subies I am disappointed, disgusted, discouraged and angry.
    I could not possibly sell this car in its current condition. I am left to try to track down the source of the problem on my own.
    This is our 5th Subie, and the 12th in our family. Based on the treatment from Subaru of America, it will be the last.
    Has anyone else encountered anything like this?
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Posts: 426
    Strange problem. I have used my V1 in my 10 Forester and "detected" nothing abnormal.
  • hratmsuhratmsu Posts: 5
    SOA must think this guy is crazy.
  • wired1wired1 Posts: 45
    Dear Subaru Crew;
    After 8 years and 160,000 miles I am looking to replace the 2002 LL Bean Outback that I so thoroughly researched with the help of the crew here years ago.

    My goals are the same as before with modifications:
    Magic and Scout (appearing in 2 issues of DRIVE Magazine) are now 13 and 10 respectively and looking forward to a new ride. They have a few questions:

    1. The new Outback appears higher. Anyone have advice on which Pet Step works best? These two are 90 pounders, with a bit less steam in their stride.

    2. Which model and trim level best approaches the LL Bean? Still interested in the six cylinder engine. Looks like the power moon roof is now an option....

    3. What's this about steering wheel vibration? Widespread or rare?

    Looking to ride again!
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 694
    2. Which model and trim level best approaches the LL Bean? Still interested in the six cylinder engine. Looks like the power moon roof is now an option

    Why not consider the Forester XT Limited (2010) which has better performance thann your 3.0 six and equivalent interior finish. It has almost 4 inches more rear seat room than your Bean. Another choice if you want a chain driven cam like the six is the 2011 normally aspirated Forester which has a new engine design. I would expect the new engine to be more civilized with less noise, vibration and the Bean's six.

    If the dogs need the luggage room of the Outback, you'll need to buy the 2011 3.6R limited to get the feel and sound level of the Bean. I found the 4 cylinder with CVT vastly inferior to my 2005 3.0R VDC (similar to your Bean, but with stability control):
    Hence my purchase of a Forester XT Limited. Also the 2010 Outback ...even the 3.6R..did not have folding mirrors which were essential.
  • wired1wired1 Posts: 45
    Thanks Dave,

    Food for thought, such as yours, is always welcomed.

    NO folding mirrors in 2010? What was THAT all about?

  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 694
    NO folding mirrors in 2010? What was THAT all about

    Cost reduction, but in the wrong place. The 2010 six cylinder list price was actually less than the equivalent 2005 by three thousand dollars. But I wouldn't even consider buying one without folding mirrors with local narrow streets. The signal mirrors like on the 2005 may now also be available on a top line 2011. I believe other 2011 Outbacks have regular folding mirrors.

    The extra width of the new Outback might be a consideration if you drive on very narrow busy streets. The Forester is considerably narrower on the outside and only one quarter inch narrower on the inside.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Could be a rusty part given the car sat around for a while, if they're changing it I wouldn't complain.

    You can check the production date on the door jamb, then compare to when you bought it. It probably sat around for .... well, not long given the demand for Outbacks!
  • :confuse: Last night I started my car and pulled out into a busy street and suddenly, out of nowhwere this god-awful sound started up....unlike any sound I've ever heard come from a Subaru (this is my 5th one) or any other car, for that matter. It was a kind of metal-on-metal rubbing sound and seemed to be coming from the movement of the wheels but I could not be sure. So I pulled over, put the car in neutral, and revved the engine, and the noise abated. Then, I put the car in drive, and sure enough, that awful metal-on-metal rubbing sound started up again. I stopped again. This time I put the car in neutral, then in reverse, backed up a few meet, put it back into drive and the sound stopped. It was loud and awful sounding; the kind of sound that if it had continued I would not have kept driving the car. I heard a metal clank just before it began, almost as if something made of metal had fallen off the car. I looked under the car, saw nothing in the street, and there was nothing hanging or dragging from the chassis. I am clueless to what this could be. I drove home--about 5 miles--through some twisty turning streets, up hills and down hills, and the sound did not recur. Anybody out there in forumland have a clue what this could be?
  • eps105eps105 Posts: 216
    Sounds like one of your brake pads binded up and was dragging. Driving in reverse re-seats the brake pads and may have reset it back in position. If this is the case, you should have the dealer clean and lubricate your brake mechanicals. Just a guess.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,000
    That or a rock became lodged in one of your brakes are the most likely scenarios. Reversing the vehicle usually frees the rock, which then falls to the ground. It certainly is a horrid, unnerving sound... almost like nails on the chalkboard times ten!

    Yikes.... I imagine there will come a time when that saying will no longer be understood! :cry:
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • redrose1redrose1 Posts: 49
    We have a brand new 2011 Outback 3.6.

    I posted a problem earlier about a noise we get upon releasing the brake pedal. Now we have ANOTHER problem with this 3 week old car: the car jumps or skips when we accelerate - several times a day.

    Has anyone heard of this and what could it be?

    We are becoming increasingly frustrated with our NEW car'

    Thanks for any and all advice.
  • Thanks for the input, eps105. I will definitely check with the dealer on that. I went down to my car this morning strangely dreading driving it (which never happens!) and went about my usual drive about town to work, etc. and everything was back to normal.
  • Thank you for that response, xwesx. It was as you very correctly described "a horrid unnerving sound." I was with a friend and would have thought I was having auditory hallucinations had I not had a witness to it. This is a 2010 Legacy Ltd. with 5100 miles and it is normally as quiet as a museum inside. Fortunately, it went away and as of today, after a normal day of L.A. driving, it has not made its presence known again. Fingers crossed that it will stay that way.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,000
    Yeah, probably a rock. I get those fairly often (once every few months) but I drive on quite a few gravel/dirt roads.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • When you've had this happen in the past, have you ever had any kind of damage to the rotor or caliper or any other part of the brake mechanism? Just wondering if this is something I should have looked at by the dealer. There's nothing strange happening with the way the car drives now. Thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,000
    Minor damage to the rotor only. The rock will create a small groove in the face of the rotor, but I have never worried about it. I had the problem most frequently with a 1996 Outback (probably 2-3 times a year). I drove that car to 220,000 miles, and it was on its original rotors and second set of brake pads (both front and rear); the system worked just fine. The rotor surfaces were not glassy smooth, but they also were not warped and braked very smoothly.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Now at 5,000 miles on my 3.6R Legacy. It has been a hot summer and so the A/C has worked overtime! When I turn on the auto climate control and it is hot out, the car automatically activates the recycled air feature on the HVAC system. Is there a way to de-program this feature? I understand the reasoning, recycle the air to cool the car quicker, the problem is that recycled air makes the windows dirty (puts a dirt film on them). Any suggestions on de-activating this feature?
  • My 2010 Legacy Limited is now almost 9 months old and has 5350 miles on it. It is a city car, and despite its Subaru lineage, has never seen off road conditions. As you can see by my mileage numbers, it is not driven hard. So all that said, the cabin of the car is full of little creaks. I notice it when the radio is off, and the a/c is on...and mostly on the left side of the cabin, front and back. There is a distinct creaking noise that emanates from the left dash area, and from the rear left seat area, although I have not been able to pinpoint it. It is not leather creaking. I don't know what it is. It is the kind of elusive noise that is difficult to describe to the service guy and have him find it unless you go along for the test drive and point it out. But it is annoying and it suggests to me poor workmanship or something not fitting just right with something else. When I accelerate, it creaks. When I brake, it creaks again. I'm just wondering if anyone else out there in Legacyland is experiencing anything similar. For the most part, I love the car. I've had a few minor issues with it, but let me emphasize minor.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,000
    Welcome to Subaru ownership! All three of the Subaru's I have owned in the past few years have been creak/rattle boxes.

    Do exactly what you already suggested - drive it with the service manager and point out all the noises.... and keep on them until the rattles/creaks are gone! Warranty work hits SOA in the pocketbook, so it gives them incentive to better their factory fitment policies and procedures.

    Judging, though, by how many cars have these rattles, I'd say not nearly enough owners are addressing the problem. ;)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Also, make sure it's not something you put in it.

    I had some rattling and it turned out to be a coin holder that I have. Oops.

    Some self-adhesive velvetty liner took care of that.
  • Thanks for the input, xwesx.

    This 2010 is my 5th Subaru (and my 4th Legacy) and the first one with this amount of creaking or irritating interior noises. I had a 2006 Legacy and the frame/springs of the driver's seat (also leather) squeaked from the first day I had it until I traded it in! Again, minor annoyance, but annoyance still the same. They never were able to fix it.
  • Good suggestion. Thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,000
    edited August 2010
    I had no problems with my '96 Outback until it got older (>120,000 miles), then some things, mostly the dash, started to develop rattles. I can forgive an older car for that, though!

    Afterward, I had two Outbacks, a 2007 and a 2008, and both of them had identical rattles: dash, B-pillars, glove box, rear gate. They fixed the dash and gate rattles, but never did fix the glove box or pillars. On the glove box, they replaced the one in my 2007 but it did the same thing afterward, so I didn't even bother addressing it on the '08. I did not have either car long, so I don't know how they would have aged.

    The 2010 Forester I have is very quiet after addressing the from-new door rattles. I have 16,000 miles on it now and it is still quiet; I hope to be able to say the same thing at 116,000 miles! :D
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • My 2010 OB is basically rattle-free. One thing I have noticed, however, is that the seat-belt buckle for the passenger seat sometimes bangs around a bit if it isn't hanging right.

    So far, at least, every little rattle noise has been something trivial, like the above example, or else something left in a cup-holder.

    The "plug" for the 12-volt output behind the shift lever also seems like a loose fit. And whenever I am using that outlet I have a hard time figuring out where to stash the plug so that it isn't rattling around....
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,552

    8/31- Fold-In outside mirrors are now available for the 2010 Outback and Legacy The non-breakaway power outside mirrors on all 2010 Outback and Legacy were a source of concern for many people. This was fixed on 2011s, and now these fold-in mirrors are available as replacement for the 2010s, in all the colors so no painting is required. Mirrors kits (including left and right side) are MSRP $199.95 from your local Subaru dealer. Standard unheated mirror kit is part #SOA635985, Heated mirror kit is part #SOA635086
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Not cheap, but anyone's breaks, replace it with this part # for sure.
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