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Nissan Murano Start Stall and Idle Problems
2003 Nissan Murano
82,000 miles
Oil changes and tire rotation every 5k
BG 44k added 2x/yr
I am always on time with maintenance and have never had a problem.
Problem:
Vehicle stalls when restarting vehicle after being driven
Description:
If the car sits for a while it will start no problem at all. In the morning before work it turns right over, but if I have stop and go errands to do that's when I have issues. After everything is all warmed up and I turn it off I will not be able to get it started. I found that tapping on the gas will keep it from stalling, but if I don't then it dies and lights up.
Previous steps taken:
none
Any suggestions?
82,000 miles
Oil changes and tire rotation every 5k
BG 44k added 2x/yr
I am always on time with maintenance and have never had a problem.
Problem:
Vehicle stalls when restarting vehicle after being driven
Description:
If the car sits for a while it will start no problem at all. In the morning before work it turns right over, but if I have stop and go errands to do that's when I have issues. After everything is all warmed up and I turn it off I will not be able to get it started. I found that tapping on the gas will keep it from stalling, but if I don't then it dies and lights up.
Previous steps taken:
none
Any suggestions?
0
Comments
I would like to report a safety issue with my 2009 Murano. While traveling on I25 in Colorado, traffic was stopped due to an accident up ahead. Traffic was stopped for over 1 hour while the accident was cleared. I shut off the engine while we waited. During this time I got out of the car to stretch with the key fob still in my pocket.
When the traffic started moving I got in the car and tried to start the engine. I pushed the start button repeatedly, but there was no response from the engine. I the mean time the miles of traffic behind me started moving to get around my stuck Murano. The key fob was still in my pocket but did not seem to be working. This was fast becoming a dangerous situation as I am now stuck in the middle of the interstate with a potential of being struck by others behind me.
My wife questioned if there was something wrong with the key fob. Remembering what I read in the owners manual about the key fob, I tried putting it in the slot in the dashboard. I press the button and the car started! I was greatly relived to be on my way again. To me this could have ended badly, luckily it didn't.
I have not encounter any more issues with the key fob since, but thought I should report this as It could be a serious safety flaw.
Anyone heard of any similar issues?
I'll update next Friday after my appointment.
However, in the past few weeks (and at 68k miles), the car will NOT stay running unless I gun the engine immediately after starting it. It happens every time I start my car. It does not matter if the engine is cold or warmed up. I am taking it in this week b/c, in addition to the stalling issue, the driver's seat no longer adjusts on the right track. Randomly one day last week, the seat moved back when I turned off the car and then when I started it up (and gunned it!), a very weird noise came from the beneath the seat. Fortunately, I can reach the peddles enough, but it is inconvenient. No one shorter than I am can drive my car. The seat will move forward on the left track, so the seat just moves diagonally toward the gear shift, while staying fixed on the right track. And nothing is in the right track. I believe the motor burned out on the right side. Ugh!!!
I will keep you posted. Of course, the warranty is over. This was my first Nissan. I had always been a Honda girl, where it was normal to run them to 200k without issues (wear&tear excluded). Is this normal for Nissan?
Several months ago,, the driver's seat just stopped moving back when you turn the car off.At least I can still position the seat, it just doesn't move like it did when i first got the car.
Please let me know if your dealership has found a reason for the starting/stalling problem. I can deal with the seat for now . . . .
Problem started after replacement of the battery????? Wonder what the cause and effect is.
Took it to the mountains, and never failed to idle when starting, hot or cold. Wondered if it was the altitude??? Came back to Ok, and now the problem is there again. Obviously the 'clean out' from a long trip was NOT the answer. Maybe the low octane gas I use causes the knock sensor to shut it down??? Will try a tank of premium next time gas prices come down.
I removed the THROTTLE BODY and cleaned it with a can of carb-cleaner. There was a lot of build up, but I did not think this was the root of the problem. I reinstalled the THROTTLE BODY and started the vehicle. This fixed the stalling issue, but not the rough idle.
I removed the THROTTLE BODY again for a closer inspection of the area. What I noticed was a small area on the opening to the intake that was dirty. The metal crush gasket that is between the TB and Intake somehow developed a leak. I could tell because everywhere on the intake where it mates to the throttle was clean except for this small area on the radius. (the stall was probably fixed the first time because I might have caught the gasket just right and stopped most of the leak)
I cut a new gasket out of good gasket material. Reinstalled the TB, reset the ECU of soft codes and started the vehicle. No problem. Idled smooth like when we bought it.
In conclusion: OUR particular problem stemmed from a leak between the throttle body and intake.
Hope this helps.
Note: Carb Cleaner is highly flammable. Use extreme caution and try to do this with a cool engine. (you can substitute carb cleaner with WD40- result isn't as noticeable)
Get the engine to start and run on its own (if you have to have someone hold the throttle that is fine)
Quick sprays of carb cleaner directly at the area between the throttle body and intake. Get the top, sides, and bottom if you can. If you have a leak there, the engine will stumble and possibly stall.
Next step...go get another gasket. As far as I know, there are no aftermarket fiber gaskets for the Murano. So you will most likely have to go with Nissan's metal crush gasket. I would say this is probably fine, but if it happened once......
Haven't taken mine in yet, but plan to soon.
Glad your problem was addressed and fixed. Sometimes they bat a thousand.
There has been a post regarding NISSAN's problem about this!!
It's NISSAN's problem~~~~ get it fixed if under warranty.
They should even do it for free as they are recalling all the ones with this problem!!
We have ST and Ti Model.
Ti = top of range with reversing camera.
I am buying a Ti, and they said the rear parking assist sensor WILL NOT fit due to Ti already have Reverse Camera installed.
Is that TRUE? Why can't the two co-exist at the same time?
Should the dealer be able to install the REAR park assist even though i have the reverse camera there??
The duct is real.
Why is a parking assist sensor needed if you already can see what is behind you with the factory reverse aid?
And dont mention about Parking in shopping centres,......I dont trust her.
SO ===> what you mean is that reverse camera already OCCUPY the wire when I put the gear into REVERSE, that's why i can't install the Parking sensor again?
The camera is installed on the tailgate door, above the car plate, while the park sensor is on the bumper. Should not have interfeering problem in terms of Location of installing.
Am i right? or I am wrong?
Thanks for u reply.
Look forward to hear from you.
Any others out there?
1) Battery replaced once. Ran out of battery on two occasions after 15 minutes of radio use.
2) Park the car, turn off the engine, open the door - ALL THE WINDOWS ROLL DOWN. Restart car, roll up windows. Try again - same thing. And again.... finally the 3rd time the windows stayed up, so I went inside - came back to the car an hour later - ALL THE WINDOWS WERE DOWN.
3) CD changer changed CDs or changes to the radio with no action from me. Happens frequently.
4) iPod connected, radio on - put car in reverse, iPod comes on. Happens frequently.
5) Last night, left work only to watch my hatch opening
5) This morning - there is a picture in the message window by the speedometer, a picture of a key, with a bar underneath. One end says F, the other E. ????
We had all the stalling and key issues while under warranty. The car is 4 years old and has 35000 miles on it now, and is out of warranty. I'm not even going to the dealer with all this - don't want it doucmented before I try and dump this POS. We're done with it. My husband is shopping for a new car now, and instead of trading in his old 2000 Acura, this one is going. I know we'll take a loss, but I need a SAFE and RELIABLE car. This i the first car in 40 years that I have not kept 10 years or longer.
So is there any use in calling Nissan? Should I expect this problem to re-occur? :confuse:
I went to replace my battery to AC DELCO and they said is not the battery is something with a relearn...or something...that the dealer need to do...but my MO haven't been without battery charge. (The battery was replaced 1.5 years ago) The tested it and the said it isn't....In the dealer told me that a Air Intake Duct need replacement because of a recall...they are doing it right now, let's see if this corrects this behavior.... :confuse: