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Chevrolet Tahoe Misfire

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Comments

  • I have read your reply`s but try this one on for size and if anyone can help i would reall appreciate it.
    I have a 97 chevy 1500 withh a 5.7 vortec. I started developing a misfire every once and a while. maybe every 3 0r 4 weeks to 6 weeks apart, Then started getting it everytime i accelerated a little more than usual or going up an incline for a decent amount of time. First of all changed the fuel filter to see if it was clogged, no help. Second the plugs and wires which have been changed 3 times currently with ac delco double platnum irridum. no help still have a missfire. Changed my distributor cap and rotor cap 2 times to make sure no cracks, still misfire after going down the road and accel to higher speed. Pulled off the upper intake expecting to find poppers in there but no, it had spider already installed, but guess what, I pulled it and put a new one in, making sure all injectors are in correct cylinders. Checked this 3 times before putting upper cover back on.Still misfire continues. Then the fuel pump goes out, how convienient. Replaced the entire assembly. still missfire continues. I replaced the ignition coil, no help. finally discusted after having the caty convertors checked and testing the 02 sensors which all checked out fine, I had a new distributor put in yesterday. took of from the shop and got 3 miles away and missfire on #5 has once again returned. NO vacume leaks and not bad compression. Idles great and starts perfect runs great until you accel too much or going up a hill or sometimes out of nowhere it starts in again. I have gone 2 to 3 days without it doing it off and on , but it comes back. Crankshaft sensor , camshaft sensor timing on dist, plugs all on the mark. what do you think about this one????? Contack me personally if you like at [email protected]
  • whats the drumroll for? iIt didnt fix the problem! Appreciate your info anyway.
  • I also has a 99 5.7 GMC Yukon 164,000 miles, owned 2.5 yrs, have replaces Dist cap 4 times, each time cap had heavy corrosion on contacts, finally replaces complete Dist, ran well for 6 months, now have general misfire code, Have read thru the various posts and have not seen any comments on inside of dist cap condition, would o2 sensor cause cap corrosion, I'm going to start towing a trailer soon and need to get to the bottom of this, sounds like this is a GM common problem, I was told my coil might be to hot, (?) HELP
  • 1 3 5 7 MISFIRE CAN'T FIGURE THIS OUT NO LEAK COMPRESSION AT 150 I KNOW THIS IS COMMON PROBLEM ANY CHEVY TECHS GO THROUGH THIS PROBLEM LET ME KNOW IT PUTTERS AND BOGGS DOWN WHEN I GIVE GAS SOUNDS FINE UNTIL IT HEATS UP GOING UP HILLS BOGGS ANY THING AFTER 30 MPH HELP HELP
  • Thank you guys for all the info. I have a 98 Suburban 5.7 vortex I've been going through the same issues. I got this truck after my father-in-law passed away. Before he died he was having issues when he drove for an extended period, it would lose power and shut off. After sitting up it would start up and he would be on his way. Learned it was symptoms of a clogged cat. So, I changed those, then it threw a code for the camshaft positioning sensor. Changed that and now threw a code for a crankshaft positioning sensor. Oh, by the way, it also had code for misfire on #4. Got my fingers crossed hopefully it works.
  • dtheodore76dtheodore76 Posts: 2
    edited April 2014
    Oh I forgot, after changing the cats, I let the engine idle then accelerated to 2000 rpms After about 4 mins the manifold was glowing red on the driver side. That's when I got the code for the camshaft sensor. After it was changed, manifold no longer glowing red. Don't want to keep throwing money on it, just want to get it going.
  • I’m having the same problems with cylinder 8 misfire on 1999 GMC Suburban 4WD 1500 Vortec 5.7L. Done everything listed in this entire forum subject for the misfire and the problem still persists.  Went from intermittent “check engine” light misfire that would eventually clear to now a persistent issue where Check Engine light is on continuously.  

    With 215K original owner miles, i’m actually okay with changing the engine out, but having spent big dollars in new fuel injector Spider, new distributor, plugs, wires, O2 sensors, cats, a new computer, all other items listed in this forum — and more, and a huge number of diagnostic labor hours, I’m still concerned this “gremlin” may not be solved even with a new engine!   I understand the O2 sensors and fuel injector assembly are primary culprits and solved some folks’ problems, but for those that it did not help, did anyone ever resolve the persisting misfire problem?   Did the bad injector problem ruin a valve over the years?  stuck valve?  could pulling the head and replacing to fix one damaged valve work, even though we all know if you pull one head we should go ahead and do both?  could the bad fuel injector design have damaged a cylinder?

    Thanks for any info you can share for those that didnthe Spider assy swap and other items suggested but the misfire persists.   By the time i pull both heads, I bay as well replace the motor and have the “low end” all new.  I let you all know what i find when i pull the head as that pesky cylinder 8 has been a bad gremlin for years now but we can’t surrender just yet as I can’t see spending big bucks for a new vehicle of this capacity or taking on someone else’s problems with a used vehicle.  Thanks. Usually GM 350ci motors don’t present such mysteries!! 
  • I’m having the same problems with cylinder 8 misfire on 1999 GMC Suburban 4WD 1500 Vortec 5.7L. Done everything listed in this entire forum subject for the misfire and the problem still persists.  Went from intermittent “check engine” light misfire that would eventually clear to now a persistent issue where Check Engine light is on continuously.  

    With 215K original owner miles, i’m actually okay with changing the engine out, but having spent big dollars in new fuel injector Spider, new distributor, plugs, wires, O2 sensors, cats, a new computer, all other items listed in this forum — and more, and a huge number of diagnostic labor hours, I’m still concerned this “gremlin” may not be solved even with a new engine!   I understand the O2 sensors and fuel injector assembly are primary culprits and solved some folks’ problems, but for those that it did not help, did anyone ever resolve the persisting misfire problem?   Did the bad injector problem ruin a valve over the years?  stuck valve?  could pulling the head and replacing to fix one damaged valve work, even though we all know if you pull one head we should go ahead and do both?  could the bad fuel injector design have damaged a cylinder?

    Thanks for any info you can share for those that didnthe Spider assy swap and other items suggested but the misfire persists.   By the time i pull both heads, I bay as well replace the motor and have the “low end” all new.  I let you all know what i find when i pull the head as that pesky cylinder 8 has been a bad gremlin for years now but we can’t surrender just yet as I can’t see spending big bucks for a new vehicle of this capacity or taking on someone else’s problems with a used vehicle.  Thanks. Usually GM 350ci motors don’t present such mysteries!! 


    Curios, did you ever discover the problem?
  • Went ahead and bought the exact replacement engine from Jegs on sale for $1,900.

    Part No. 12530283

    5.7L/350CI L31 LONG BLOCK CRATE ENGINE WITH VORTEC HEADS

    The motor is installed and running perfect and so that’s what it took to address my mid-fire and jabe an engine where all 8 cylinders are firing correctly.  

    It turns out that after a careful examination of cylinder 8 there was a tiny hairline crack that was allowing the slightest bit of moisture (from the water coolant pathway to get into the cylinder and cause the combustion chamber to not fully fire correctly.  No way to have found that without tearing down the engine and rather than try and repair it, my decision was to install the new motor.  Now i have a brand new motor and upgraded other peripherals while I was at it to where this truck will now outlast me.  good luck and i hope others have success with the other less costly maintenance options articulated above, but it’s now no surprise none of those worked for me and i’m not sure this sort of thing would be able to be diagnosed as there was no evidence of water (rust, moisture) at the spark plug.   live and learn. 
  • 99gmc_suburban99gmc_suburban Posts: 3
    edited March 2018
    BTW, the hairline crack that was discovered leaking moisture into Cyl 8 was in the *head* itself, i.e. NOT the cylinder/block itself and NOT the head gasket that was intact and not compromised.  

    sorry for other typos above:

    *...what it took to address my MIS-FIRE and HAVE an engine where all cylinders are firing...”

    glad to have the lower end all new as there were some oil leaks in front and rear seals and other issues that were on the “to do” list if i was going to commit to keeping this vehicle for the long run.  
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