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Chevy Venture



  • Can I get some real-world gas mileage you all are getting while towing 3000-3500 pounds with the Montana/Venture/Silhouette (with the towing package) please?

    I just got a Honda Odyssey and hooked up my 3500 pound travel trailer to it and got a SHOCKING 9 miles per gallon! I really thought I'd get 14-15.

    I welcome any information; I am really needing this info because I don't want to change vehicles AGAIN if the mileage is the same as the Odessey.

    We are on the road right now! We started out in PA and started our trek to the Pacific coast. The mileage was so bad with the trailer, we dropped off the 3300 pound trailer in Ohio at a storage facility because our trip was going to cost $2400 in gas alone because of the 9 mpg.

    Thanks everyone! -Tony
  • viscernviscern Posts: 5
    I've pulled an older pop-up camper a few times with my 98 venture (I had a tranny cooler installed also). The camper is around 2500 to 3000. Normally I get 28mpg on the highway but with the camper it drops down to the upper teens or lower 20's. When I pull the camper I use a higher octane gas such as 91 or 93. I think the octane difference helps with hills, takeoff and such.
  • eskramereskramer Posts: 3
    My ABS light came on when I was having problems starting the van ('98 venture). Long story short...I took the cables off the battery and cleaned them very well with baking soda and reconnected them. Believe it or not, the ABS light went off and has stayed off. Now if I can only get that damn "check engine light" to go off...
  • eskramereskramer Posts: 3
    My wife has an extended '98 venture and the front suspension has been making some real loud noises lately. I jacked it up and to my surprise, the sway bar was broken in half near the drivers side tire! Broken in half! I called 3 neighbors over to look at it and not one had ever seen a swaybar break like that.

    Has anyone out there ever had this happen before? We have 125k on it, and "knock on wood", we haven't really had any other problems with it. I also have to replace the outer tie rod on the passengers side.
  • Took my wifes '05 in to check what she called 'rattling' coming from the rear of the vehicle. I drove it, and it only happened when the rear wheels were going over bumps. Mechanic says he cleaned out some rocks from off the frame, everything else was stable. Driving it home, heard the same sounds. I got underneath it myself, and the only thing i notice is some kind of tubing with a spring-like thing (sorry for the rookie lingo, not too technical here). It comes off the rear cylinder, connects to the frame by some clips. Moving this or slightly tapping it almost recreates the sound I heard while driving. What exactly is this tubing for and could this be the problem? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Hi Joey,

    I have no idea what a rear cylinder you mean the rear shocks? Do you mean a rear wheel cylinder? Muffler or resonator? I suppose the fuel tank might be considered a "fuel cylinder" although I don't think I'd describe it as cylindrical in shape?

    If you can point us in the right direction, I'm sure we can figure out what's rattling...where is it located? Near a wheel? Near the muffler or tailpipe? Side? Center? Low/high? If you think the loose tubing (whatever it might be) is making the rattling, temporarily secure it to something with duct tape and drive it around. If the rattle is gone, you found the culprit...otherwise, hopefully with a better description of what's rattling, we'll figure out how to make it stop...nothing more annoying than a rattle in a car....
  • Hey dude, thanks, and sorry at the same time...
    the cylinder I am talking about is right behind (or connected to) the rear wheel - a brake drum possibly? The tubing connects right to that, so maybe its some kind of break line, but I'm not sure, since I've never dealt with them before. The rattling noise is definitely coming from the rear of the vehicleAnyway, the duct tape idea will work to check it out. Once again, apologies for being unclear, and many thanks for any and all info. -jp
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    No need to apologize, just trying to help... :)

    Sounds like you're talking about a brake might want to follow it a little bit and see where it leads you. You might find a broken clip..

    Also, don't forget to check on the other side as well. There is a line that goes to each wheel and I bet that if the other side had a broken clip it would make the very same noise. Once again, follow it and see where it leads you, you might find the problem.

    Let me know how you make out with the duct tape test. If need be, I'll lay under our Venture and look for stuff that could be causing the noise...anything metal bouncing off of anything else metal could be causing it as well.
  • 03jeep03jeep Posts: 1
    I just had the same thing happen to my 99 Venture. It was making a clunking noise and I had a mechanic friend look at it and he said the sway bar was busted in half. He said the same thing, he had never seen anything like it before. I was wondering how much the part was to replace it. I have to start calling tomorrow for prices. Thanks DJ
  • qinaelqinael Posts: 1

    I'm having some problems with my 2003 Venture. I jump started someone a few nights ago, and ever since, when attempting to start the engine, it's acted like it's had a problem getting enough power from the battery to turn over. This continued getting worse (having a harder time starting) for the next few days, until yesterday it just stopped starting altogether.

    Now, the lights will come on inside; the dash will light up, headlights work, etc. But when I attempt to start the engine all this dies / drains, and instead of starting there is a clicking sound followed by a faint "churning" or whizzing sound.

    I've cleaned the battery contacts, made sure the battery is charged to full, tried jump starting it, etc. and nothing has been successful so far. I *think* I located the starter behind the radiator and near the bottom, and jiggled the apparent contacts there to make sure they weren't loose - nothing there, either.

    I do not know how to proceed from here, so anyone with an idea / experience would be appreciated. Thanks.

    Update: I tried pulling all of the fuses that had to do with Ign or Battery, then waiting about 30 seconds and re-inserting them. When I tried to start the engine, the same thing as before happened, except I noticed that when I turned the key to the "on" position, there was the churning sound I mentioned earlier. I did this a few times to test it - now the van acts as if the battery is completely dead; no lights, dash, anything of the sort.

    Also, now, when I turned the key to "off" it makes the churning sound for a few seconds awhile the speedometer and other gauges twitch around slightly, before falling limp as the churning sound ends.
  • viscernviscern Posts: 5
    Sounds like the starter is going out. It may have had nothing to do with the jumpstart you did. That whirring and churning noise is a classic symptom of a bad starter. When you turn the key, finger like items engage forward within the starter to grab hold of another piece which in turn cranks the engine. If those fingers do not move or only move enough to touch the other piece, then you get either a whirring or churning noise.

    It shouldn't be too hard to replace yourself. Check around and see if it is more cost effective to have it rebuilt or to buy another one.

    You can also remove it and take to an Autozone or some other parts store. Most will check it for free.

    Let me know what you find out.
  • viscernviscern Posts: 5
    Have the selenoid on the starter checked. It is what actually pushes the "fingers' to engage. sometimes you can tap on it with a hammer and the car will start.
  • dweb99dweb99 Posts: 2
    Just returned from the car repair shop, and was told that our 2001 Venture has a broken front sway bar. The owner of the shop explained he's seen this before, and that he found out that GM bought some suspension parts from China, and those parts are prone to rusting through, which is what happened in this case. Our Venture has 68,000 miles on it and I drive it like an older person because I am an older person, so there was no abuse. Back in the 50's, my dad's 1950 Buick broke a rear sway bar, and I can't help but think that they haven't learned how to make one that doesn't break over the past 58 years.
  • I have the exact same complaint on my 1999 Venture. Was anything ever found why it was doing this or where the water was coming from . I hear the same rush of water and then my door locks go crazy . Locking and unlocking the door locks all by their self. Then I start loosing my dash lights until I dry the wiring out. I have installed a couple of towels under the dash to cover the fuse block which helps, but is by no means a fix. Can't find where the water is coming from .
  • I have a 1999 Venture that has exactly the same problem except I would hear a rush of water under the dash after I would back out of my driveway and go into drive. As soon as I drove forward I would hear the rush of water and it would pour out from under the dash onto the passengers feet and the fuse block and wiring . This would cause the power locks to go crazy until i could dry pout the fuse block and wiring . Did you ever find out what the problem was
  • Hey gang,

    I have a 2001 Venture and my ABS and Traction control lights are on. Any suggestions before I spend a bunch at a garage for a diagnosis? Any way to temporarily shut them off for a day?
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Probably a bad wheel speed sensor - they're part of the bearings so they have to replace a bearing to repair it...Only thing you can check is the connectors at each wheel to make sure that they're tight and in good condition. If they're all on OK, you have to let them hook it up for a diagnostic check so they can figure out which one it is.
  • I have a MVI vehicle inspection,,can I turn those lights off for a day???
  • No, If you get an OBDII controller and turn off the light, the garage will know. They will know because your van's computer will tell them that not enough time has passed for the light to be on or off (since you reset the light); diagnostics in the computer need a certain amount of driving time to put the light on or not. They'll give you your van back and say bring it back in after a 100 miles or so. Then your light will be back on.

    Another way to put it is that there are three results when you hook you computer up to a computer:
    Pass (light is off);
    Fail (light is on);
    Not Enough Info (light is off).

    If you "turn it off," you'll just put it in "Not Enough Info" mode and they'll tell you to come back.

  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Is this something I can change at home in the driveway or should the shop do it? Pretty handy but not sure on this one?
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Ever since I bought the starter it grinds when I start the van. Now it ticks and eventually it starts, Does this sound like the starter is going? If so is this difficult to change and can it be rebuilt or should I just replace it?
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    Did you have this looked at? What was the problem? I am having the same complaint.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    I've never done a starter on a Venture but I remember on my Celebrity, you had to check the backlash of the starter gear to flywheel (3.1 V6)...if the shims weren't right, it would grind. The starter came with a tool to measure the backlash and shims to correct it of needed.

    If you determine that the starter needs to be replaced, don't bother trying to rebuild it, just replace it.
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33

    I just found out that my left rear hub assembly needs to be replaced. I have changed my front ones, is the rear ones harder? Any information or advise would be great.

    Thanks again!!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    If you did the front, the rear will be a snap in comparison. Same concept but IIRC, bolts on the front, you don't have to work from the back of it..
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    So you are comfortable in saying that he rear is much easier to change? i think I am going to give it a try. If I wanted to change my brakes at the same time would it be easier or is this something totally different?
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    While you've got it apart you might as well replace the brake shoes. You don't have to remove them (assuming you don't have disc brakes here) but its as good a time as any to do them. It really is easier than doing the fronts. Go for it. I'll keep my eyes here, if you run into a problem, give a yell.

  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    I changed the hub, but I had to remove the drum brakes I can't seem to figure out exactly how to put them back. Any one have a diagram for a 2001 venture rear drum brakes???? ASAP

    Thanks again.
  • jeddryjeddry Posts: 33
    NEED HELP!! Do you have a brake diagram???
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