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Honda Civic (coupe/hatchback)



  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    To access the top mounts of the rear shocks, you will need to remove the rear speakers and a couple of screws along the bottom of the panel. If you can't get to what you need to get to, you will need to remove a few more screws along the base of the plastic panel to reach the shock mount from under the panel. Basically, unscrew some and then tug to see what is still attached. I just dremeled holes on the side of the rear panels to access my adjustable shock mounts and later put in a rear strut brace.

    Is the sound you are talking about a whining sound that seems to be coming from the drivetrain or is it a definite click? Are you on the gas or not? If it is really just a whine and slight rockiness when you let off the gas, then nothing is wrong.

    Hope this helps.
  • racer11racer11 Posts: 4
    thanks chem123 for the response.

    the reverse noise is not present when driving with the clutch fully engaged or while engaging the clutch while moving from a dead stop. my driveway is sloped down to the road, so at some point i end up disengaging the clutch and rolling out the drive with the trans in reverse . this is where the click click happens. it sounds like some kid stuck a baseball card in my spokes. i don't get it coasting forward with the clutch disengaged in first gear. i do not believe i am hearing gear whine. i have had my share of straight cut gears in motorcycles.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Darn, I hate it when kids stick baseball cards in my wheels ;). Seriously, though, I don't know what to think of your problem. I strongly suggest that you go to and register and ask your question. Try the "EG+" forum and the "Tech" forum. I think you will find a wealth of information there about a car that you are new to. FYI, you drive an "EK" chassis car (96-00) while EG's are 92-95, hence the "EG+" forum being appropriate.
  • igloomasterigloomaster Posts: 249
    howdy. weird thing just started happening.

    my gas pedal will stick a bit when starting off or after backing off of the pedal completely and then reapplying pressure.

    for example -- i will apply the normal 'gentle' pressure to get going, and the pedal doesn't want to move. the only way i can describe how it feels is that of an unlubricated door hinge. it takes more muscle to get it to do it's thing.

    adding a little more pressure than i am comfortable/familiar with gets the pedal to work, but results in too much of a burst in speed due to the pressure needed to get the pedal to go down.

    i tried to grease up the joints on the pedal itself, but that didn't help at all. any ideas?
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Have you checked your throttle cable? That might be it.
  • racer11racer11 Posts: 4
    mssg 258.

    the 2002 hatch is here. i believe the whole car is from england and shares no engine parts with the former sir or si. big hp, and lots or revs, sounds like real crap for city driving but fun in the twisties.
  • arta43arta43 Posts: 1
    Thanks to jimjet for his tire recommendation for those without power steering. I put a pair on my 97 Hatch and it's amazing to feel the difference that a tire can make. It reduces the steering effort by at least half or two thirds. Wow!!

    Thanks again jimjet!!

    I also just finished the EX gauge cluster swap so if anyone needs a "walk through" feel free to email me.....
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Congrats on the successful installs. Never can go wrong with new rubber or better instrumentation.
  • Hey i am just starting to add racing equiptment to my honda civic cx. I really need to know something, i just bought racing seats and i need to know how to attach the harnessess. I want people to still be able to sit in the back of the car, while haveing the harnessess installed. I am not puttng them in to race.... its kinda just for looks. How can i put the harnesses in?
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Please do not use those harnesses without at least a 4 pt rollbar (not rollcage). In the event of a rollover, your neck is not able to be forced downward toward the center of the car and your neck becomes the rollbar (if you get what I am saying). What type of seats and harnesses are we talking about anyway? You shouldn't even use harnesses on the street even if you have them. Not to rain on your parade, but what is the point of non-functional racing equipment? Racing seats are a good start if they are good ones as they will allow you to concentrate on your driving when racing...OFF-ROAD. Try even a local autox and have some good, cheap fun racing your car.
  • Thanks for informing me about that... ill be sure to take what you said into account and not race on the road.
  • rfruthrfruth Posts: 630
    *every* time I get in my Civic (2000 DX 5 speed hatch) & turn on the A/C (lots) I turn the temp control switch just off the coldest setting figuring a little better fuel economy less wear & tear on the compressor etc and the owners manual is worded like that anyway people say nope the compressor is on or off there is no thermostat and that stands to reason this is a Civic there is no max A/C setting or auto climate control there's an A/C switch (on or off) temp and fan control that's it I got home from the airport and asked a neighbor who owns a small fleet of trucks, asked him before I even got the question out of my mouth he was shaking his head (that Jason is correct the car doesn't have the smarts to cycle the compressor as needed) when you answer and hope that you do say turn that baby as cold as it will go cause I will. Rob in Houston
  • hey everyone.. i need some help. I have a problem i have a 1992 honda civic cx hatchback. I just bought a new emergency brake handle and i cant seem to get the old one off. I have a manual about all the parts and how to remove them but it says there is a screw to remove the handle, when i can clearly see there is not. If anyone could help me by telling me how to do this task i would greatly appreciate it. Thank you so much.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    from Edmunds' Generations section: A Honda Civic History, by John DiPietro. Hope you enjoy!

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
  • dxeerdxeer Posts: 2
    does anybody know exactly what honda did different to the '92-'95 civic VX models engine vs the DX engine? VX gets about 15 more miles/gal than the DX.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    used the VTEC-E engine that the later gas-sipper HX coupes used, if that helps at all.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • dxeerdxeer Posts: 2
    nippononly would I be able to do any mods to my DX engine to get the mileage up like the VX?
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    The VX was more than just engine mods to get the higher mileage. I'll try to list as much as I can remember:

    1) VTEC engine was tuned for higher mileage. Mag reviews at the time complained of a too abrupt transition to VTEC caused by this tuning.

    2) Wheels where cast aluminum with 70 series radials mounted(narrower and lighter than the steel wheels on CX or DX).

    3) Front end had a deep air dam reducing lift and increasing mileage at highway speeds.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    I don't remember what differentiated the VTEC from the VTEC-E, but I do remember it was not something you could mod on the engine - you needed to have the entire head and intake system of the VTEC-E car.

    Way too expensive to contemplate now - you can still buy an HX, so that is the way to get your hands on this engine nowadays.

    Those VX/HX-only alloys looked really nice though - I have seen a DX here and there over the years that bought those particular alloys for appearance's sake. They are narrower, but also lighter, and reducing unsprung weight always helps to increase fuel economy....

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • the car also had weight-saving upholstry that was pretty thin. i want to say there was a difference in the exhaust, too.
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,726
    to be "lean-burn" - this probably had a lot to do with the engine management too.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • Just wondering if anyone in here knows how to or knows where I can find info on replacing the rear window. The old one got busted out, I picked up a new used one from a Honda Parts yard, doesn't look like it would be that difficult but I owuld rather follow some sort of instruction before I make what may be an easy job a lot harder =)
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    You may also to post (copy/paste) your question in our Honda Civic Owners - Service & Repair Issues discussion. Someone there may have some helpful feedback. Good luck.

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
  • cyickcyick Posts: 1
    Ok guys. I recently (as in today) just bought a 91 Honda civic hatchback,. Now what i am wondering about is what kind of problems I should be aware of or special little things on how to handle this car a little bit easier. I am totally stupid when it comes to cars so i may need your help quite a bit!
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    and congrats on your Honda Civic purchase.

    You said: "Now what i am wondering about is what kind of problems I should be aware of or special little things on how to handle this car a little bit easier."

    To start, you can look up recommended service schedules, recalls, and technical service bulletins for your 91 Civic in Edmunds Maintenance Guide. Also, you'll find valuable information on vehicles/driving in Edmunds' Ownership Section? Scroll down the page to see their Tips & Advice articles.

    Others here may have more to add. Good luck, and please keep us posted on your ownership experience. ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
  • beanboybeanboy Posts: 442
    Taking care of my sick GF and her sick Civic this week, and have a number of little issues I'm trying to research:

    Reading the forum with interest about the delay in starting with a 1/3 of a tank or lower, glad my GF's '99 wasn't the only one! Anybody ever find out a reason?

    On a fuel related note, her car wasn't started for a week, so the battery which was already week 9and orginal) finally gave up. Replaced it but the car still wasn't happy. A couple of bottles of dry gas along with 5 gallons from a can and the car started right up. Related to the delayed starting perhaps???

    The car was running fine, took in on the highway for a good 25 minutes or so to warm everything up and blow out the cobwebs. Noticed the check engine light was on. Figure it was becuase the battery was disconnected, any idea how long it will take for the code to clear? Is there anyway to check the codes without a scan tool? I'm able to check mine by just doing an on/off sequence with the ignition.

    Noticed the beginnings of a slight shudder in the brake pedal, read with interest the Civic is known for some pretty wimpy brake rotors. Any direct replacement rotors to recommend?

    Tires were rotated a while ago, and a creaking noise has appeared in the front right suspension area. Thinking bumpstop or material used to quell noise shifted/moved when the car was on the lift. Anybody else have this problem and know what exactly is causing the problem? Wondering if they cranked the lug nuts down too much, leading to the rotors starting to warp.

    Well, I think that's all for now, tehe. Thanks for any and all advice!

  • icvciicvci Posts: 1,031
    Check plugs? How about running a bottle of injector cleaner at the next fuel stop. I always do with an oil change.

    For starts on first crank, turn the key and wait until the check engine light goes off. Then crank away. Supossedly this pressurizes the fuel system. My hatch always starts on the first try after I wait.

    Codes? Look here -

    There is a TSB for the creaking noise. I have the problem to but, it doesn't happen enough that I care. I am curious what it is though.

    Buy a Helm Manual, it is a DIY Bible.
  • rivertownrivertown Posts: 928
    Not much help from me, but . . .

    The post suggesting waiting for the fuel pump to initialize when starting seems very right to me.

    I don't expect more than about three years on a new car battery, so it makes sense to me that GF's needed replacement.

    Dunno about the brake/tire/suspension issues.
  • beanboybeanboy Posts: 442
    Thanks for the information. Was going to grab a bottle of techron yesterday, but didn't make it to the stores in time.

    Thanks for the link to the codes and how to get them without a scan tool!

This discussion has been closed.