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2010 Mitsubishi Outlander



  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,004
    I imagine you'd get used to the CVT. I rented an Altima for a week, at first the CVT was a little different, by the end of the week I didn't even notice it.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    Sorry for being late to respond; I haven't been in the forums for a few weeks.

    I've a '10 Outlander GT that I bought as a replacement for a '99 Galant LS. Both cars are V6s but the Galant had 195HP and of course the Outie has 230. The Outlander V6 runs fine on mid-grade gas so if you opt for a V6 version you don't have to burn premium all the time.

    My Galant was getting 23-24MPG overall and after 9800 miles I'm getting 21.3 in the Outlander. I wanted it to be a little better but considering it's a taller, heavier vehicle with AWD I'm not disappointed at all.

    For me, moving from a Galant to an Outlander was pretty easy.

    If you don't need quite the size and a 4 cylinder engine is OK with you, you might also consider the Outlander Sport that's being released in October/November. You can check it out at It is a little smaller but is supposed to get 31MPG highway and will be less expensive than the regular Outlander. It looks like a shorter Outlander but there are dozens if not hundreds of differences.

    BTW, I did make it to Factory MOD ( a couple of weeks back. Had a good time & won a pair of Rockford Fosgate Punch Plugs ( Truly amazing bass response for ear buds.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 399
    Thanks for the heads up on the Sport, If I didn't read about it first I'd have to winder if someone slipped some drugs in my drink upon first seeing one !!! (what's wrong with this picture?) ;-P I dunno, lopping the end off the standard one (and the major loss in space) isn't worth the extra mpg to me. Of course no flap fold tailgate either. :sick:
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    Some of that lopped off length is in the front since the Sport only offers a 4 cyl engine. Cargo space is smaller, but it's not that bad. The front fenders, BTW, are made of recycled plastic. Like Saturns of old they have give & shouldn't be subject to door dings.

    I agree on the loss of the split tailgate, though.

    My wife drives an '01 Elantra so it's getting up there in age. Right now she's considering the Lancer & the new Cruze as replacements. I'll drag her to the dealer to drive the Sport as well. ;)
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    Tonight my '10 GT rolled through the 10K mile mark. To date, I'm averaging 21.3 MPG in mixed driving on mid-grade gas (89 octane w/10% Ethanol). I've done one oil change & tire rotation and will likely do the next in December when I celebrate the first anniversary of ownership. As I drive less than 15K miles/year I'll generally be doing time-based maintenance v. mileage-based.

    There have been no problems, no recalls, no concerns.

    It's still a pleasure to drive. There's room for whatever we need to carry, be it people or cargo. The nav system has been easy to use and helpful a number of times. Even when I know where I'm going I'll sometimes set it up just for the time & distance remaining. Or use the map with no destination plugged in to keep abreast of traffic issues. As I rarely need voice prompts I've muted them.

    The Rockford-Fosgate stereo continues to impress. We have over 80 CDs ripped to the hard drive & have set up numerous playlists for managing them. The music we have in there ranges across genres from Mozart to country (ex: Martina McBride) to classic rock (ex: Journey) to modern rock (ex: Nickelback) to J-pop (ex: Namie Amuro). For America's Got Talent fans I've got a Michal Grimm MP3 collection on a thumb drive I keep in the car.

    (Side note: I attended Mitsu's Owner's Day last month & won a pair of RF Punch Plugs ear buds. If you want ear buds with honestly good bass response, check 'em out.)

    I've set the touch screen's color scheme to blue from the default of red; the blue is definitely easier on the eyes. I also switched the keyboard to QWERTY.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • i just bought the 2010 SE AWC in cool silver color. Really nice car, i am loving it.

    I just found out that for some models, most likely the XLS, comes with the SILVER color side rails roof rack (only the rails, NOT the cross bar), and with the SILVER/CHROME outside door handles.

    My roof rails are in black color and all four door handles are the same painted car body color which is the cool silver. (the two front doors has the black lock button)

    I am wondering what models ships with these parts, and what are their OEM part numbers? What previous year parts are compactable with the 2010? I am very interested to have these parts on my car, but can't find it ....anyone here has any clues, catalogs? Truly appreciated. ps. I am in America.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    If you are looking for cross rail kit you may order from any Mitsubishi dealer ($319 - ROOF RACK CROSSBARS AERO BAR). Just provide your car VIN number to the part department. The cross rail kit is adjustable to any outlander roof size. I bought one for my previous 2008 XLS Outlander. Instructions are relatively easy to follow. Would you have any problem for installation you may copy installation brochure (pdf file) from Thule web page. Have an assistant to fit your cross rail evenly on the top and a meter I also bought a roof box from Thule (Yakima stuff are also good)
  • thanks. but i am not looking for the cross bars, they can be found from dealer and plenty of different types in the market. i am looking for the two SIDE RAILS in SILVER color.
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    The silver rail bar can also be order from a Mitsubishi dealer. It will cost a lot if you want to swap the black for a OEM silver one kit. When you bought your car you should ask the dealer to change the original black rail for silver one (at a cost).

    The best option is to disassembly your original rail roof (black) and re-painted silver (The silver color code can be given for the dealer or buy a silver touch up paint where the code is imprinted on there). Took the rail roof to a reputable body shop and ask them to paint it silver and also after it was painted to install it on the roof. Reputable painters usually do a god job. I remember painting my silver Thule roof rail box to Rally Red and I was satisfied with the job.

    I hope this will help
  • i recently got my outlander and i noticed that my side mirrors are fading (i have a black outlander) am wondring if anyone have the same problems with mine. the delership that i bought the car from told me that the only thing they can do at the moment is to buff it... sad and disaapointed... any feedback?
  • comem47comem47 Posts: 399
    edited November 2010
    You might try something like nu finish scratch doctor. It seems to brighten the finish while making light scratches disappear (if only for a while).
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 100
    I've had a black 2010 Outie since July. Paintwork is not great on this model and black does not show well without a good wax treatment. I spent a couple of days last summer applying Meguiar's 3 Part Deep Chrystal with excellent results. Owner's manual recommends waxing once or twice a year.
  • i got mine september... how was your side mirror? was it fading? is it something that happened in the dealership or a manufacturer defect.. what do you think
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 100
    Had some interesting interaction with Dealership and Customer Service concerning which maintenance schedule is appropriate for Canadian operations. The owner's manual is clear about recommending the "severe" schedule for all 2010 Outlanders being driven in Canada. Both the dealer and Customer Service suggested that to do otherwise could impact any power-train warranty claim regardless of how much or how little mileage is put on the vehicle. Their main concern seems to be effective warm up and lubrication of the die-cast aluminum MIVEC engine. My dealership is under contract to provides free oil and filter changes so I'm willing to go along with the "severe" 3 month or 6000 km (3750 mile) oil change schedule but I'll be adopting a "regular" 6 month/12000 km (7,500 mile) for all other maintenance requirements.
    I average well under 10000 km per year which on most other manufacturers vehicles would only require oil changes at intervals of 6 months or more which must represent a significant competitive disadvantage for Mitsu in Canada.
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 100
    No noticeable difference between mirror casings and bodywork on mine. Hard to tell why the mirrors would age differently, a good quality polish should help.
  • iluvmysephia1iluvmysephia1 Manson, WAPosts: 7,128
    edited December 2010
    especially when you consider that dealerships make the most money on after-the-sale-service than on anything else.

    My 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS has about 64,400 miles on it and it hasn't had it's oil changed in about 7,600 miles, and I'm not worried. It truly is a great time to enjoy great cars. I will get mine changed in a few days, though.

    It's time.

    2011 Kia Soul Sport 5-speed

  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    I live in the Chicago area. We have both hot summers & cold winters. But I'm following the normal schedule. My 1 year anniversary on my Outlander will be up in a few days and I just rolled 11K miles. So I'm going by the time-based intervals and not the miles-based. LOF, tire rotation, and 1-year/15K inspection stuff will be on tap when I take it in this Friday.

    Out of curiosity, are there other manufacturers that want you to use the severe schedule if you live in Canada? Mitsu's tech is hardly so unique that they'd be more "frail" than the competition and require maintenance more often.

    BTW, if the manual "recommends" but doesn't "require" the severe schedule to be followed, they haven't taken a legal position requiring the more frequent maintenance. This is similar to how they recommend but don't require premium gas. If it's a recommendation & not a requirement you should be legally safe following the normal schedule or, perhaps, splitting the difference and going 5500 miles/4.5 months.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 100
    My wife leases a 2010 Honda Civic with oil condition monitoring. When she picked up the vehicle last February the dealership told her to bring it back in about a year or when the oil condition display showed 15%. So Honda's approach seems much different from Mitsubishi's in this regard although I think they may use synthetic lube.
    My 2005 Equinox with it's Chinese six cylinder motor used to regularly go 10 months between oil changes which was in accordance with the owners manual but I doubt you could do the same with their more fuel efficient 2010 models.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    Honda's oil life gauge is more-or-less measuring how the oil ages. It's counting engine revs or using some other metric(s) to determine the remaining oil life percentage.

    Mitsu's system is simpler in that it's just time/distance based.

    While Honda's system is more accurate, IMHO Mitsu's system is better for your car overall. My reasoning is this: We consumers almost universally tie our car's maintenance to oil change intervals. Whether it's rotating the tires, changing the air filter, or flushing the radiator, we do it in accordance with the next oil change.

    Under Mitsu's system I'll still do a tire rotation every 6 months. The other fluids will still be checked/replaced regularly. The things that don't match their life to the quality of the motor oil will still get done at the required intervals.

    Sure, that may mean I spring for an average of an extra oil change every couple of years, but I'm fine with that. From a vehicular maintenance perspective there's no such thing as changing your oil too often. And I will be paying for those changes since I don't get free changes. But the car saves me a lot on maintenance compared to my prior car so I'm still coming out ahead (3mo/3K oil change .. now 6mo/7500 mile, timing belt every 60K .. now every 105K, trans flush every 30K .. now sealed, etc.).

    A week or two ago I checked my oil and it was still a very pretty non-black color. I've no doubt that the oil, which has 4500 miles on it, could go another 4500/6 months before it's replaced. But it'll be replaced tomorrow morning to coincide with 6 months passing. Cheap insurance for maintaining the car & the warranty.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 100
    Fushiqi, you drive around Chicago, I drive around Toronto so our driving conditions are essentially the same. You happily adhere to a six month oil change schedule whereas north of the border a three month schedule is recommended for Canadian owners regardless of how the vehicle is being used. The assumption presumably being that up here we're driving around in the snow all the time!
    How nonsensical is it (not to mention annoying) when 70 days and 1500 km (900+ miles) after one oil change the PERIODIC INSPECTION display comes on three weeks ahead of the next "severe" schedule oil change?
    I've had my service reminder adjusted to 6 months now and will operate in similar fashion to you picking up my oil changes within that 6 month time-frame.
    By the way, my take on the tire rotation schedule is that it's not time based but recommended every 12000 km (7500 miles).
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    I agree the tires are time-based, but again, I go ahead & do them in sync with the oil changes as I don't want to 1) do the rotation as a separate service visit or 2) do it less often than 7500 miles.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389


    To demonstrate Mitsubishi's All-Wheel Control technology we set out for some unforgiving terrain in Alberta, Canada, with our Outlander crossover family. We came home with a handful of official Guinness World Records.

    300 m - The greatest distance by a vehicle in reverse on snow in 30 seconds - Outlander Sport
    56.2 m - The shortest braking distance by a vehicle on ice (30 mph to 0 mph) - Outlander Sport
    3 laps - The most vehicle figure-of-eights on ice in two minutes - Outlander
    1:11 min - The fastest vehicle slalom relay on ice (1/4 mile) - Outlander & Outlander Sport
    19:31 sec - The fastest driven square lap in a vehicle (gravel, 100 ft. x 100 ft.) - Outlander

    To me the most impressive are the figure 8, slalom, and the ice braking. The ice braking looks especially boring, :) , which is exactly how you'd want it to be. And the figure 8 & slalom show how the AWC system can benefit in everyday winter condition driving.

    (Cross-posting to relevant threads)
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • wow! that's sooo cool!
  • dajadaja Posts: 3
    Anybody know that I can use rear lower and upper gate from 2009 to my 2010???
    I know they change front but rear look the same except recese lights on the bumper corners.
    I call dealers,parts supply and always is "I don't know"
    Thank You for any ideas
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    Do a Google search by using “genuine or original OEM Mitsubishi parts”. Prices on this on line business are reality much cheaper than those offered by dealership and they are OK. Long time ago I send an email to the part manager where I bought my Outlander with prices given by these on line companies, and I said that if he match those figures I will order all my stuff from the dealership instead of the on line Web page. The part manager agreed and from that day prices are very similar, perhaps $2- $3 dollars difference.

    If you want to be sure or suitability of parts for 2009-2010-2011 Outlander models, ask part number of the parts for all manufacturer years. The part manager has the duty to disclose you the part number of the part you are queering. If the part number are equal for the different manufacturer year then that part will fit your car regardless the MY. Equally a number of on line part sellers’ present software that reproduces diagrams of the parts you are looking for. Few times I have copied these diagrams onto the email to the dealer to make clear what I want without ambiguity.
  • ljmitsuljmitsu Posts: 1
    Anyone having any problems with the battery suddenly going dead? So dead the door locks don't even work. Just randomly for no apparent reason after driving fine the day before, just dead the next day after parked overnight?

    A local dealer was trying to convince me I am leaving something on or not turning the FAST key off all the way until I proved to them that you can't even lock the doors unless it is turned all the way off, and that even if you leave a dome light on that light turns itself off....

    A jump and charge brings it right back to life but it's happened twice now with no known cause (and yes, they checked the battery and the alternator).

    I suspect a computer problem because a long ago service reminder that was supposedly reset (twice) still displays as well - the same dealer is also telling me that they "turn themselves back on sometimes".

    Any feedback woudl be welcome - thanks!
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    You might not be leaving something on but it does sound like there's a current drain somewhere. I highly doubt it would be the service reminder unless by "turning itself back on" you mean the info screen is on when the doors are shut & engine is off. That shouldn't happen.

    There's the usual suspects:
    - Door/hood not closed all the way and convenience lights/sensor causing the drain.
    - Alarm/FAST.
    - Exterior light stuck on (headlight/brakelight/tail lamp/turn signal/fog light).

    The other things I can think of would relate to things being stuck:
    - When you shut the car off the vents may automatically move from recirc to open; drainage occurs if the motor is stuck.
    - A power window is continually trying to close, drawing juice. One feature we have on the Outlander is that the power windows will work after the engine is turned off until the driver's door has been opened.
    - Radio, BlueTooth, or Navi not shutting down when they should.
    - Fault in the TPMS system causing it to stay on continuously.
    - Power seat motor stuck.
    - Airbag sensor in front passenger seat stuck on.

    Most of these are unlikely since they should have power cut hard when the car is turned off, but the window motor is worth checking I suppose.

    You might consider replacing the battery anyway or asking for a loaner to make the defective battery determination. Car batteries are a crap shoot. I've seen new car batteries last 12 months and I've seen them go 8+ years. My '10 Outlander is ont he original after 19 months/17K miles but when my '99 Galant's battery died in, IIRC, 2002, it was as you said - sudden with no warning. But the battery itself was definitely dead.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • batman47batman47 Posts: 606
    When I shipped my GT2010 to Valparaiso-Chile the battery was completely flat after 3-weeks on the sea. I opened the car door with my manual key. This was strange for me because I did not have similar problem with my previous vehicles. My Lexus SC300 started immediately after 4-months when it was left outside my house while I was in South America.

    On my return to Peru to collect my GT2010 (after 5-months) the car battery was complete dead and it took 10-minutes to jump start the engine from another car.

    From the two-experiences cited above, I may say that something stays “ON” after the engine is switched OFF and everything is locked. My wife has told me that she has noted (in her car) that when she switches the engine off while the radio is on, she has a problem to start the car engine the following day. Possibly the fact that the anti-theft mechanism is still working can drain the battery after a long period of time.
  • fushigifushigi Chicago suburbsPosts: 1,389
    If you lock the doors your alarm is active. Now that might normally be a small power drain but remember on the Outlander it includes microphones on the inside that are listening for intrusions as well as the normal stuff.

    That why if you lock the car with the windows cracked on a windy day the alarm might "randomly" go off. It's hearing the wind noise & interpreting it as something inside the car moving.

    Personally I'd prefer to defeat this feature but so far I haven't found a way to.

    I've no idea what other trickle-drains there might be. My normal suggestion is that if storing a car for long periods, a battery trickle charger/maintainer should be used. They're inexpensive and don't overcharge the battery. Of course they probably can't be used when shipping the car, but for dead storage I wouldn't do without.

    Question for the group: If you park in a garage at home do you also lock your car? I don't since I consider the lock on the garage door to be adequate + the keys are never left in the vehicle.
    2017 Infiniti QX60 (me), 2012 Hyundai Elantra (wife)
  • jonoxjonox Posts: 100
    Always lock our cars in the garage due to reliance on garage door openers which can be spoofed.
This discussion has been closed.