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Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited



  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Elf6, Rkow, and others, y'all aren't the only repeat T&C customers out there:

    Polk Automotive Loyalty Awards

    Steve, Host

  • jbpehrjbpehr Posts: 4
    We took delivery of a new 02 T&C Ltd just after Christmas (29U package) for just under $28K. What a van and the deal was super!

    We have noticed the right-side sliding door is not closing completely sometimes (1/4 inch bump out at the rear) which results in the door not operating via the remote or control panel. We are trying to isolate the problem this week before we take it in to the dealer to make sure we are not doing something wrong. Any ideas out there? Anyone experience something similar with the sliding doors?

    Also, are there any other sites out there for T&C owners? This one is great but I crave info for my new T&C. Thanks, Jay
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Try a search engine like, or

    I'm guessing your slider is out of alignment somewhere - probably the latch. Should be an easy fix (touch wood, LOL).

    Steve, Host
  • sensei1sensei1 Posts: 196
    My belt tensioner seized up and in the process took out my belt entirely. Fortunately the belt snapping didn't take out anything else. I'm @ about 42k mi and I thought it was a bit premature. Asked the dealer about it relative to warranty but couldn't offer me a good answer. (SOL) Anyway the van's back on the road again. Just curious how prevalent this is out there. Didn't have this problem with my '89 GC LE before I let it go with 135k.

    So heads up with belt noises. That's how mine started and that's all I thought it was.
  • elf6elf6 Posts: 10
    My 98 T&C LX with 3.8L engine starting making noise at 51K miles. During a routine oil change the dealer service technician found the belt tensioner pulley was frozen. They replaced the tensioner pulley and belt as well since it had been dragging over the frozen pulley and was somewhat worn. I asked the service advisor if that was common and he said "I wish I could say no". Apparently the pulley is constantly moving back and forth as the engine accelerates and decelerates which wears out the bearings. The 95 Voyager LE with 3.3L engine that I previously owned has 91K miles on it and the tensioner pulley is still good. Replaced the belt once because it was starting to crack. Maybe the 3.8L engine is harder on the pulley.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Yes, having the belt tensioner seize up is a very common problem across the Chrysler minivan line. Had one replaced on a '94 Grand Caravan LE with 3.3L at 50k, and another on our current '96 T&C LXI with 3.8L. Catch it early enough and it won't also cause the water pump to leak (like what happened with our T&C).
  • sensei1sensei1 Posts: 196
    Thanks for the feedback guys. What Ed said kinda made sense. Didn't think about the 3.8 engine as a factor. But now Ken is saying it also happens on 3.3's. Like I said this is my 2nd minivan ('89 GC LE) and 1st time it happened. So I guess that's one of the weak links.
  • madnanmadnan Posts: 4
    The dealer did not have the T&C that i wanted. So i had to place an order. Now how long would it take Chrysler to build and ship the vehicle. For the record i had ordered a T&C LXI with a leather bucket seats for around 29K.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Posts: 778
    it all depends on how many orders are in front of your van ,a rough guess who be 4-6 weeks. The T&C is built in Windsor , Ontario , Canada , so it also depends on how far it has to be shipped to get to you .
  • All,

    I think I have finally decided on which minivan is best for my family. I want to get the following:

    Make/Model: 2001 T&C Limited
    Miles : less than 30K
    Color : Gold
    Options : Split rear bench, TV/DVD system

    Now all I need to do is find one. I had an idea and thus am posting here for advise. Does anyone know how to get information on leases that will be returned this year? I would love to talk to someone that is planning on returning the van I am interested in and buy it from them at a fair price (more than what the dealer says the residual is but less than what it will be marked up to in the retail market). I would be willing to pay between the trade-in and private party price as described by Edmunds TMV. I hope this turns into an easy win/win for both parties.

    If anyone has any leads for me, please let me know.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Buying Your Leased Car

    and one most people don't know about (pick one up, drive it see if any problems show up, and then buy it?):

    Lease Trading

    Since lease returns often wind up at auction, you may be able to get a broker to pick one up for you.

    Also try the Lease Questions - Ask Here discussion. Good luck!

    Steve, Host
  • I purchased a 2002 Town and Country Limited back in October and I am concerned about the amount of brake dust that is accumulating on the front wheels. I can clean the wheels and two days later they are completely covered again. Now I expect some brake dust but this is excessive. I thought that it might be because the brakes were new, but I have 5000 miles on them now and it has not slowed down. Is anyone else experiencing this problem?
  • those of you with a new TC, did you look at the dodge grand caravan? what are the differences other than looks? both offer awd which i want. thanks.
  • krebs3krebs3 Posts: 1
    We are buying a 2002 T % C LXi awd and wonder if there is extended warranty available and if anyone thinks it's worthwhile? Thanks for yuor thoughts.
  • 4aodge4aodge Posts: 288
    The 16 inch chrome wheels on our 2000 T&C LX 3.3 get pretty dirty after only a few days of hard driving. You especially notice the dirt on chrome wheels but they are worth it since they look so nice when clean. I would take the van to your dealership and have them do a visual inspection just to make sure nothing is wrong if your that concerned about it. Good luck!

  • leebealeebea Posts: 25
    I have a 2003 T&C Limited and a 2001 Sebring convertible Limited. Get used to the brake dust. It is a fact of life with disc brakes. I keep my cars clean so I spend a lot of time just trying to keep the chrome alloy wheels shiny, especially the front ones. I wipe mine down quite often. But don't they look great! That's the price we have to pay.
    Keep 'em shinin'
    Lee B.
  • pluto5pluto5 Posts: 618
    I rather have steel wheels with wheel covers that cover up the dust. Just my opinion.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 688
    try for the best prices on a factory warranty. There are 3 levels of coverage and a number of month/mileage combinations. Cost is a 1/2-2/3 from your dealer.

    Just an insurance policy but......Problems with the complicated power side doors, power rear door, A/C systems will cost you a bundle after your 36/36,000 mile warranty is up.

    I've never used either of mine yet but I have another 3 years to go on my vehicles.
  • My 97 T&C LXi had the same problem.
    I live in a hilly area.
    I replaced my brake bads with Bendex ceramic pads
    and it took care of dust problem and it lasts almost forever.
    Besides ceramic pads are quiet and comes with a lifetime guarantee.

    I had to take my 97 with 140k to the glue factory and just picked up a 03 T&C Limited last week.
    700 under invoice with 0% for 60 months.
  • leebealeebea Posts: 25
    Good luck with the new T&C and thanks for the info on the brake pads. One thought - do they squeal? I'll keep the Bendix ceramic pads in mind but hopefully with less than 4000 miles on both my T&C Limited and my Sebring convertible Limited, I won't have to use them for awhile.
    Lee B.
  • crkeehncrkeehn Posts: 513
    OEM brake pads generally tend to be quite soft. Using harder compounds with the resulting squealing led to frequent warranty claims for excessive noise. The softer compound is much quieter, however it wears faster and generates a great deal of dust.
  • boiloffboiloff Posts: 14
    my wife's 2002 T&C Ltd has developed a "howling" sound that intermittently appears when the van is idling, or slowing to a stop. sound frequency increases when RPM is increased, but disappears when van starts to move. switching off the AC, radio has no effect. the sound is more pronounced inside the cabin - i could barely hear it when i opened the hood to try to locate the sound source. happens when engine is hot or cold.
    anyone experienced similar problem? any ideas?
  • Having a similar problem with my 2002 T&C LXI AWD.
    Any information would be appreciated.
    It is intermittent. Makes it impossible for
    rocket scientist at dealership to find. Started
    taking vehicle to new dealership.
  • tomtomtomtomtomtom Posts: 491
    If the noise gets louder when you slighty turn the steering wheel than your dealer should have a TSB (TSB on Steering Res.)for it.
  • boiloffboiloff Posts: 14
    the intermittent howling sound is not affected by turning the steering wheel. the only thing that affects it is engine speed - at higher engine speeds it changes from a "howl" to a "whine" (higher frequency).
    could this be indicative of a belt tensioner problem, as in post # 1316?
  • My T&C mini van has had two experiences 1 week apart. When driving, the engine begins to sputter and loose power. The van slows to a stop and the engine continues to sputter and then stop. I can restart it but it sputters. After some time (30 min or so), I restart it and it appears to run fine. The first time it did this, the technician did find some misfire codes in the computer but could not find a problem. The second time (at the dealer), they did not find anything. At the present it runs fine but when will it stop again? Any one with similar experience please respond. Thanks
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    With the van not running, turn the ignition key from the off position to the on position (not start position) three times leaving it on the third time. Then count the number of times the check engine light flashes. There should be a pause between the series of flashes. You should end up with 2 digits. i. e. 6 flashes pause six flashes = 66 which means no trouble codes stored in the computer. If you get anything other than 66 post it and I will look it up in my manual. There are 86 codes a scan tool will read, and this method will diagnose 40 and will get you pointed in the right direction. My 96 had an intermittant check engine light with a 32 code which indicated an EGR valve failure, which when replaced, stopped the light and then indicated a 66. A good test for all you DC owners to perform, a 66 means all OK.
  • Hi guys, this is my first time to post messages, so please bear with me. My wife has a 2002 Chrysler T&C Limited minivan, front wheel drive, with the REGULAR duty and self leveling suspension. Good, bad, or ugly, I would like to replace it with Chrysler`s TOURING duty with the self leveling suspension. The TOURING suspension was offered in the T&C LXi, but not the Limited. I asked my 5 star dealer and they said that it wasn`t a problem with Mopar parts, BUT they couldn`t tell which was the touring suspension by just looking at the part numbers. They needed a VIN number to order the correct parts. You can now see my problem, my VIN will only come back as the regular duty, and the 2002 Grand Caravan ES or T&C LXi, which both were offered in the TOURING suspension, are very hard to find on the dealer`s lots to obtain a proper VIN number. And to stop someone on the street that has the touring susp and requesting to disclose their VIN, I think would be very personal and improper. So question, can anybody, owners or any salesman on this board, tell me how I can obtain this info, or at least direct me on how Chrysler codes their replacement parts.
      Thanks, for your time and effort.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 688
    According to a 2002 Parts Book I can decipher the following parts:

    Rear shocks now, 4743 229AA, need 4743 233AA
    Rear Sway Bar now, 5006 128AA, need 5006 121AA
    Front Struts now, 5006 333AA, need 5066 334AA
    Front Sway Bar, Same as present

    Springs I cannot tell. Need a 3 digit code for the spring groups (like ZAF). There are 13 or 14 different part numbers (maybe left and right) listed for both front and rear.
    The book says" Spring Group Types; Found on Individual Vehicle Sales Code Listing".

    Front spring part numbers range from 5006 705AA thru 5006 780AA. Rear springs 5006 304AA thru 5006 457AA.

    You can check prices and descriptions by entering the part numbers in at

    Prices are discounted 20-25%.

    I would guess you are looking at $1000-1300 just for the parts.

    Hope this helps!!!!
  • pluto5pluto5 Posts: 618
    If there are no codes I would suspect the thottle body. Mine gets gummed up causing van to stall. Get some Gunk throttle body cleaner and use it every couple of months.
This discussion has been closed.