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2010 Honda Accord



  • I have read 3 opinions:

    1. every 6 months
    2. every 5,000 miles
    3. the oil life calculation shown on the odometer

    What say you?
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    You'll get strong opinions on all three. In fact, you left out the once every 3 months or 3000 miles that so many push.

    IMHO, Honda's maintenance minder system works well. I change mine when it reaches 15%. That usually works out to 5k - 7k. If you drive less than that... then you should change it at least once a year.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The oil life minder won't lead you astray. It counts engine revolutions, and takes conditions like trip length, how cold the engine is, etc into account. Doing so will prevent waste.

    When the oil life minder hits 15% or after 12 months, whichever comes first.
  • I have always been anal about oil changes and its likely I will always be that way. In my time, I've seen way too many engines fail due to lack of periodic maintenance, and old, sludgey oil can be a prime contributor to early and unexpected failure.

    That said, if I'm (still) getting free dinosaur oil changes from Honda, I make sure to change it every six months, regardless of mileage. However, if I have switched over to synthetic oil (Mobil 1) then I feel that a year between changes is OK as long as I haven't driven more than 7000-8000 miles or so. If I put on more miles, then I change it sooner.
  • Is it true, that you can wait a whole year for your first oil cange?
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    It depends on mileage, of course. If you don't reach 15% on your maintenance minder, then you should change the oil once a year.
  • I waited the full year to change the oil on my 08 Accord coupe - only had around 9,000 miles and the maintenance minder still showed 30-40% oil life remaining - so I changed it when I had my yearly inspection done.

    I suspect many people who were brought up on the "change your oil every 3,000 miles mantra change the oil between 5,000 and 8,000 miles though.

    Today's engines have much tighter tollerances (from what I hear) and the oil quality has improved (not sure about this one) - hence the longer oil change intervals.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    A reporter is interested in talking with owners of the Honda Accord who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to no later than Saturday, November 20, 2010 and include your city and state of residence, the model year of your vehicle and the age of your child/ren.


    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • YIKES! Glad our 2010 Accord V6 is outside the affected VIN range.
  • rcummelinrcummelin Posts: 184
    edited December 2010
    I thought about this recall overnight and decided to post another message about it.

    Please be sure to read that recall notice from HMC carefully, as it really describes a substantial breakdown in Honda's Quality Assurance procedures. Why do I say that? Because the notice states that programming changes were made in July, but no one bothered to test, verify and validate that the changes were correct and worked as designed.

    As a former QA and process consultant/specialist, I wonder who's driving the Honda train these days? Looks like they totally dropped the ball on this one for almost 11,000 cars to be built on defective machinery, and this was never detected. It makes me wonder if Honda laid-off their QA people, or somehow determined that it was acceptable for software changes to be made without any testing done to ensure no errors were injected/created by the changes?

    This is truly frightening, and I hope that Honda comes clean and tells us HOW this happened, and what they have done to ensure it can't happen again. In the meantime, I'll hold my breath.
  • Hello - Carpal tunnel and arthritis make pressing the remote key twice to unlock the rear doors painful. Is there a default or way that the rear doors can be unlocked more easily? Thanks for help you might offer.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    You can always unlock the driver's door and then press the power lock button on the arm rest for the back seat. Otherwise, I'm not aware of any way to reprogram the fob.
  • There is indeed a way to alter when your doors lock and unlock I believe - if you cannot find it in the owners manual check with your Honda dealer's service department and they should be able to help you.

    I changed the lock/unlock settings on my 2011 Honda CRZ using its multi information display, however the Accord models should be able to be altered using a combination of button presses on the fob (so check with your dealer). Good luck.
  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    If you're unhappy with the ride, try damper units (not the entire coilover assembly) from Acura TL. They'll fit and have more advanced valve structure inside.
  • Car has been remarkably reliable with very few problems to report. Battery was replaced under warranty at about 28K miles. Noisy rear wheel bearing was replaced under warranty. Took to dealer today to have automatic transmission fluid drained/refilled and brake fluid flushed/refilled as car is approaching 3 years old and I plan to keep it at least another 3 years. Dealer also did brake inspection. Front/Rear pads (originals) 6/7 mm. I get 26+ mpg overall with regular gasoline. Original tires all read 6 mm. Even wear. Tires are rotated every 6 months. They have been balanced twice but never felt any shaking. Factory white diamond pearl paint still looks new. Car is garaged and hand washed however. Satisfied with car.
  • HI

    I have Honda accord EX-L of 2010.I started noticing this problem even when the mileage is about 18000.

    - The "Oil Change warning Indicator" flashes intermittently ( when I accelerate/apply brake)even when the OIL LIFE indicator is about 60%.
    - At times, all of sudden. I hear roaring engine noise.,

    When reported it (during warranty period), the dealer said - the oil level is very low and that's the reason for the engine noise also. When I countered him how could the indicator (oil low) is on when OIL LIFE is is well withing range, he argued that I should not pay attention to OIL LIFE indicator and should change the oil every 5k miles. Though not convinced, I did not have any other option. But after the oil change, everything looked OK

    When the mileage was between 20k and 40K, the above problem has surfaced 2 times and the same argument from the dealer.

    Now my mileage is 50K. I have done the oil change about 2 months back and my current OIL LIFE indicator value is 80%.

    Now I see the 'oil change' warning starts flashing again intermittently and hear more roaring engine noise. When I took the issue again, my dealer now argues: It is out of warranty. You have to pay diag fees and subsequent repair charge
    My argument is: This issue was reported even at 18K, 28k,34K intervals well within the warranty period. He did not diag it properly and fixed it. Now the issue started coming up much early before the next oil change

    Did any of you have this issue? Any suggestions how to take up this issue?

    The dealer with whom I have not satisfied: Steven Creek Honda dealer, San Jose , CA

    Thanks in advance
  • As a patient person, I've let it go. Since buying the car the glove compartment has made a noise when the Accord is moving. Little adjustments to the glove compartment haven't worked to silence the noise. Should have asked this to the forum years ago. Any suggestions, help, fellow Accord owners? Thanks.
  • kingrkingr Posts: 61
    Excessive oil use in the 2010 V6 is very common, Thers is a TSB in place to help correct this problem, Have the dealer perform TSB 11-033, This should help in your excessive oil use, To be on the safe side you should check your oil every couple weeks, if low add some.
    I had the same problem and after having the TSB done my oil level did not drop much at all.

    Good Luck
  • sshvhsshvh Posts: 13
    I would take it to another dealer - I am unsure about kingr's reply as you seem to have a 4 cyl car - I have a V6 but do not have a problem - be persistent and take it to another dealer.
  • kingrkingr Posts: 61
    edited January 2013
    Since you do not state if you have an I4 or V6 I can only give you advice if it is a V6 based on my experience. First Google TSB 11-033, print it out, take it to your dealer and insist it be performed. If they refuse insist to talk to the highest level person currently at the dealership and explain your situation, If no good, go to another dealer hopefully one who cares about doing the right thing. Having this TSB performed will help however regardless if you have the I4 or V6 you MUST check your oil every 2 weeks at least, If your oil level is low Add some.
    I was adding 3 quarts of oil between 7500-8000 mile oil changes. After having the TSB performed I now add 1/2 quart between oil changes.

    Good Luck
  • Sorry this is so long.

    I replaced my 2008 V6 Accord because of the dreaded VCM with an almost identical 2010 EX 4 cyl. It's been a pretty good car but for a couple of nagging issues.

    It's got about 45k miles on it and about 6 mos ago I noticed that there was considerable shake and shimmy all of a sudden. I could really feel it in the steering wheel and also in my legs. I was going in for service that week and asked the tech to add a tire balance and rotation in.

    Well, it was worse going home. I immediately called back in and told the tech. He said to bring it back and I said I would. But I thought better of it and decided to take it to my regular tire guy. He said that Honda had rebalanced the tires but never removed the old wheel weights. He said he took care of the problem (for $50). But it still wasn't right and I brought it back to him to recheck and sure enough, he said that they weren't balanced and redid them--or so he said.

    I decided to take the car to an import specialist who had a "Road Force" balancing system. It would simulate the weight of the car during the computer balancing process. All to the tune of $25/tire.

    That didn't work either. I took it back and the import special guy said the tires were getting old and that was the problem. I still had at least 15k worth of tread life and decided to just let it go. If new tires don't fix the ride I don't know what I'll do, other than trade cars. I can't stand the ride but everything else is ok except for...

    The noise coming out of the rear of the car. I think is on the passenger side but the wife on the passenger side says it's on the drive's side. When I get behind a large truck the noise sounds like sheet metal flapping in the wind. Which it very well could be. I have splash guards all around and thought they might be working loose causing the noise and helping catch the wind which would make the flimsy rear quarterpanel flap around. Anyway, the self-tapping screws for the splash guards were a little loose so I tightened them down, to no avail. The noise is still there and quite perceptible.

    I wonder if there is a relationship between the bad ride and the noise?
  • Hey watch for rear brake pads on those Accords. Honda just settled with everyone. They wear out every 15K and the problem is real. Just Google and you will find the settlement. Whatever they say brakes being fine, they are lying straight to everyone's face. Good customer service until they sell you the vehicle. Then terrible attitude with rude people on the phone for faulty brake pads. My biggest mistake dealing with Honda America. Don;t believe in their certified cars scam. Do your won research before you buy one of these. Call customer service and ask them questions before you commit to buy. You will change your mind.
  • I can't help myself from asking the question, when you spoke to the dealer tech after the original service, why didn't you bring the car back to him? You could have left it with them, until they solved the problem for you. Just need some more information to understand why you would bring it to your "tire guy" twice and the "import special guy" twice, to no avail. Yet, you only brought it to the dealer once. :)
  • RangergrlRangergrl Posts: 3
    I know there are many break issues, since I had to have the front and rear ones replaced at 22k miles (at that point I only owned the car a couple months). That should have been my red flag. Now at approx 39k (of course the warranty just expired at 36k) the master cylinder is going out. I take my car to a honda certified shop closer to home (it's not a dealership, but run by a group of guys and ladies who used to work at dealerships and were tired of ripping people off). They looked at my car, as well as another non-Honda certified mechanic and both said take it to the dealer cause of the master cylinder should not be going out this early. I wasn't able to find anything online about this being a larger problem, and I'm well aware tomorrow when I take it to the dealership they'll tell me nothing is wrong with the MC and send me on my way and then it will turn 40k and explode with problems (this is my luck). So just seeing if anyone has any advice? I throw such a fit at the dealership that there is a note on my account that says I can only deal w/ the service manager b/c no one wants to deal with me (for all the issues i've had with this at under 40k miles you're darn right I make a scene). I had a 92 accord that I sold at 286k miles and I still see it around town--hardly spent any money on it, at least not this much this early.
  • wayne21wayne21 Posts: 258
    edited July 2013
    After reading your message I called my DIL as I remembered she had brake issues on her 2010. She's had the brakes done 3 times, but doesn't know if she had the master cylinder done or not.... "I just pay them when it's done". Obviously an easy target. I had forgotten about the brake issues from 2008-2012 and was actually wondering if they took care of this with the 2013. I would suggest you contact a factory rep and try to get something worked out for your master cylinder. I agree with the guys who told you it shouldn't be a problem yet. In fact, I didn't even know master cylinders went out anymore :) BTW - have you had any steering column grinding or anything like that?
  • kp600kp600 Posts: 5
    Hey 2010 Accord Owners,

    Don't know if this one has been covered, but it is lighting up the Accord Forums. Honda released a TSB for it 12-082. The problem is a loud knocking sound from the front suspension when slowing to stop or starting up from a stop. The knock is almost rotational sounding. This started on my 2010 LX last year. I brought it in to be looked at, and they couldn't find anything wrong, at the time the car was under warranty. Now that the car is out of warranty, Honda released the TSB, which states that both lower ball joints should be replaced with new updated parts. The old ball joints created a "stick-slip" knocking noise.

    This year the noise in my 2010 has gotten real bad. It is now so loud that it drowns out conversation in the car. It sounds as if the entire wheel is going to come off and you can feel vibration in the floor and steering wheel. I can't believe it's not a safety recall.

    Anyhow, seems a lot of people are having this issue so I thought I would pass it along in case someone was wondering what it is. Looks like after having just spent $1k on four rotors and pads I am going to have to cough up another $400 or so I don't go insane listening to this knocking noise. All before 80k miles. Yippee!
  • I have just reached the 15,800 mile point on my 2010 Honda Accord V6 model. My local Honda dealer has informed me that the read brake pads are at the recommended upper limit for replacement. I only use the automobile to travel to and from work on mostly flat pavement, going between work and home on a 11 mile round trip on weekdays. I did not expect a brake issue under 30,000 miles. Would you know if I have any recourse from Honda on the issue, fearing that even with my fully extended Honda Care service agreement the repair would likely not be covered.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    of Honda, having had 4 of them in the past, but, if I read you right, the rear brakes need replacement at about 16K miles???...are you sure you didn't leave off a digit somewhere?

    Heck, some cars can almost go 16K miles on an OIL CHANGE these days, if you use synthetic oil and have a large enough oil pan... :confuse: :confuse:
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