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Ford Focus Hatchback ZX3 - Part X



  • whyfordwhyford Posts: 50
    There is a pre-oil unit sold if it bothers you.

  • kdominczakkdominczak Posts: 174
    Can we feed our automatic transmissions with the Redline synthetic?
    If yes, what type of Redline can we use?
  • whyfordwhyford Posts: 50
    Throw out bearing?

    Chinzy things on this car make me believe my clutch will act up again also.

    Wait until a FEW problems show up.

    ]Deal with them one at a time.

    Record and document everything!

    And when you get really upset then make noise.

    I mean make REAL NOISE!

    One item i see is "hesitation"...various rpms?

    But a common problem. Correct?

    Poor mileage? where near what we thought. I also agree.

    Does anyone have A/C problems?

    No. It seems.

    Maybe when i have time i will bring up my beefs.

    Dealer posts the complaints>onto Blah Blah Blah..

    A year goes by.....BLAH BLAH..........

    Then the words "EXPIRED".


  • zx3beastzx3beast Posts: 661
    i would tend to agree with ottos if we were talking
    an 8 cyl.engine.but no way,no how with the four.
    pushing the limit on relatively cheap preventive
    maintenance makes no sense.your engine oil,be it
    refined or synthetic is its lifeblood.a good point
    made was concerning proper tire pressure,a very
    often overlooked detail.i plead guilty on that one.
  • zx3zx3 Posts: 167
    First, lemme thank you, and say I stored the link you gave me in Favorites.......
    Soon as I have a chance I'll make the switch to Redline Synthetic manual tranny lube.
    (Also thanks again S/B).
    NOTE: Redline has synthetic lubes for Automatic trannys. I forgot name of poster who asked, hope he sees this.

    Car being broken-in ... gently. At the speeds it will be "mostly seeing" during its life-time. No "near-redlining" of engine. No "screaming acceleration". In other words.... no hot-rodding.

    First oil/filter change 600 mi. (get the shavings out). Ford 5w30 conventional oil. Second change 1200 mi. Mobil-1 Synthetic 5w30. Final "break-in" change will be at 3000. Mobil-1. ("Recommended intervals" will be followed from then on).

    The z is still running flawless at 1500 miles. I mean, not a single squeak, not a rattle, not a failure, not a hiccup -- since Day One.
    I've owned a lot of cars (some fine ones like VW-GTI) but this sweet little z, is my first car "flawless from the get-go".

    Mileage (80%hi-way) has gone from 29mpg (34 total miles on tach) to 31 (1100 total mi. on tach). I'll be checking it again, next tank fillup.

    5-spd Tranny was a little tight for first few hundred miles, even a little rough, sticky, balky at times... but by the time it had 1000 mi, it was shifting much more smoothly ... now shifts nicely, easily, continuing to improve steadily as mileage builds up.

    "Engine pep" (accelerating from standstill, or from low speed) seemed "lacking" for first 700 miles. Heck, to tell truth -- my engine was a "Wimp"!! I was kinda disappointed.
    Around 1000 miles, I noticed it seemed to be coming to life.
    At 1500 ... engine now accelerates (from dead stop or low speeds) with Authority!-- with real Punch! wow. I am PLEEZED! No more, a wimp!

    Idling: Engine is still as quiet as it was on Day One. (Remember much earlier, one of my first posts -- where I remarked on it)?
    Sitting at red traffic lite, I sometimes glance at Tach to see if engine is still running. It's that quiet, that vibration-free (my GTI was NEVER this quiet). Very pleased here.

    "Tracking down road"/"Handling" etc.... tracks down the road like a cat. No wandering. No pulling to either side. Responsive, precise steering. Handles like a VW (that's a real compliment!).

    Brakes: Solid feel, stops car rapidly with authority. Not mushy. Quiet. No squeaking from Day One.

    Autumn-color z, gleams under 3 coats of Meguiar's Liquid Car Wax. Easy on, very little rubbing required. (Bottle says "most reflective car wax in our 90-year history"). I'm pleased with it. And with RainX "Self-Drying-Carwash".

    Yes indeed, 'Beast, you were right -- "the z is a sweet lil' Road Machine".
  • zx3zx3 Posts: 167
    Sorry --the CORRECT Redline web address is...
  • zx3beastzx3beast Posts: 661
    zx3- thats great news you just reported.i will
    second that experience minus the clutch pedal return spring at 4500 mi.ive done enough cranking
    about that deal,lets see if the replacement hangs
    in there.i had tried westleys spot-free dry and
    was impressed with the results.i have not seen
    rain-x wash yet.i know their glass treatment which i use is nothing short of amazing,an easy to apply
    quality product that actually does as it claims.we
    now have that re-form green gas here,(which i have
    posted + complained about previously) .i swear that
    the by-product of that fuel is wicked +
    gives me head pain and generally lousy feeling.its
    now being required year round.locally,mtbe is showing up in fresh water supplies + wells.its a good thing that the z has more punch. all z owners
    will need sure you heard by now the latest craze......
    about how 2 blondes will stalk and hunt down a z
    owner.its wacky,its wild, its!
  • tdasetdase Posts: 1
    Has anyone heard anything about any changes when the '01's hit the dealers? I know that is a few months off, but I'm looking to buy soon and I want to know if waiting another few months might be worth it.
  • superf22superf22 Posts: 54
    too bad the wife said no, sometimes wives are mean like that....just kidding.

    thanks to all of you posting positive things about the zx3. mine just hit 1200 miles, running great, what a car!

    so how do I change the transmission oil?
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    To all with questions about switching to synthetic gear lube in your 5-speed 'box, or your auto tranny, take some time to visit the Redline website and click on the detailed descriptions of each of their gearlubes and ATFs. These folks are well-espected, and know their stuff. You will learn quite a bit about the upside to synthetics, and you'll have a better idea of which product is right for you. Check your manual to see what Ford recommends, and Redline will have a corresponding synthetic to replace it (ex: Mercon ATF can be replaced by one of several products Redline makes).
  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    Drebe, your description of the car wanting to move forward while in 1st gear with the clutch pedal depressed is characteristic of a failing clutch master cylinder. If the clutch master won't hold pressure in the line, its just like you were slowly easing up on the pedal - the car will creep off the line, since the clutch is partially engaging. If making several quick strokes to the clutch pedal allows easier shifting (essentially, you are "pumping the system up"), I'd say you found your problem - failed seals in the clutch master cylinder. Keep in mind that the master cylinder creates pressure that acts on the slave cylinder, so it is possible for the problem to be at the slave... or both. Good luck - your dealer needs to do a system pressure test and make this right.
  • twatkins1twatkins1 Posts: 1
  • pcleveland2pcleveland2 Posts: 516
    This is in your owners manual, Page 247. Use these specifications in choosing lubricants for you Focus ZX3s with 2.0L Zetec-E engine. You don't just throw in any lubricant and think it will work. The specifications should be marked on the lubricant container or available from the refiner in his product information sheets.

    Engine Oil must meet Ford Specification WSS-M2C153-G with API Certification Mark. Also see page 181 in owners manual.

    Oil Filter, Motorcraft FL2005 for 2.0L Zetec-E engine. Aftermarket filter must meet Ford material and design specifications of the FL2005 filter. You need to have the Motorcraft and the aftermarket filter catalog to determine this.

    Auto Transaxle Fluid must be "MERCON V" and meet Ford Specs WSS-M2C202-B.

    Manual Transaxle IB5 Fluid must be "Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid" and meet Ford Specification WSD-M2C200-C. *See Note 1 below.

    Manual Transaxle MTX 75 must be "MERCON" and meet Ford Specifications "MERCON". *See Note 1 below.

    Brake Fluid: Ford or equivalent, High performance DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid. For service Ford recommends Super DOT 4 for manual transmissions. Each has different spec. See page 247.

    Gasoline Octane: Ford recommends 87 Octane (Regular Unleaded) determined by the "(R+M)/2" Method and should be labled on the Gasoline Pump.
    Vehicles certified to meet Calif. Emission Standard are designed to operate on "Calif reformulated gasoline". If not available it can be operated on non-Calif gasoline - BUT the performance of the emission control devised and systems may be adversely affected.

    *Note 1: Your manual transaxle type should be listed on your Safety compliance label and if it isn't your dealer should be able to obtain it from your VIN number. I don't know which manual transaxle is used on the ZX3 because I got the auto transaxle. Maybe someone else can tell us which it is.

    Hope this clears up what you can and can't do concerning aftermarket lubricants and fuels. As long as the product you choose meets ford specifications and is equivalent you should be okay in using it.

    As far as fuel/gasoline goes, try to stay with a locally "branded" (Kwik-fill, Marathon, Sheetz, are a few on east coast) chain, or nationally "branded" (Mobil, Sun, Exxon, Shell). Stay with the newer stations with newer tanks. Try to purchase from the same station all the time.

    Sorry for such a long post

  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    twatkins1, if your rim "scratches" are what's commonly referred to as "curb rash" (from pulling too close to the curb and scuffing your wheel and tire against the concrete) - there's little you can do short of having the wheel refinished. ZX3 alloy wheels are finished with silver paint and clearcoat, much like the finish on the body of the car. If you abrade the rim, you've scraped off the paint, and most likely gouged the soft aluminum alloy as well. My advice would be to find another (undamaged) wheel from a wrecking yard. Foci are starting to turn up in salvage yards, and these wheels should be available for the same or less than the typical cost of refinishing -- around $100 or less per wheel. Just make sure any used wheel you find is straight and true, and has no visible cosmetic flaws. Several folks have upgraded to 16 or 17 inch wheels, and may want to sell their stock wheels - do some checking around.
  • zx3beastzx3beast Posts: 661
    silver - i think you just nailed it.with the additional info drebe provided it seems not to be
    normal as one poster implied and disagreed.i was
    hoping for drebes sake that nothing was
    never seemed right that all of a sudden,after driving the 5spd.that he would forget how to shift
    in + out of gears.anytime there is doubt about what
    is or isnt normal should be addressed immediately
    with the dealer.once any component of the clutch goes,forget it about it,your stuck.
  • All,

    Will hopefully be buying a new black zx3 Monday...the dealer didn't
    have any on the lot, but did locate 2 in south ga (i'm in atlanta).

    2 questions for ya, if ya'll don't mind...

    1) If the dealer is hacing the car brought in from 200 miles away, do
    I pay extra for that?

    2) For the zx3 I want, the msrp will be around 14.8k..what is a good
    price to get...i was thinking of offering 14k....

    thanks in advance for your help!

  • fgaydosfgaydos Posts: 319
    I would not pay extra for it, after all he is putting 200 miles on it.
    As for making an offer? It costs you nothing to make offers. So do it, what do you have to lose?
  • superf22superf22 Posts: 54
    first of all go to
    that shows invoice prices, add up all the options and then make offers starting at a couple hundred below invoice and work your way up. I understand this cars are going pretty fast, the demand is much higher than the supply so don't feel bad if you end up having to pay 3 or 4% over invoice, but it doesn't hurt to offer less. and don't pay for the delivery trip, like
  • superf22superf22 Posts: 54
    like fgaydos said, they're putting 200 miles on it, so don't let them charge you for it. I'm sure everyone will agree. enjoy!
  • pcleveland2pcleveland2 Posts: 516
    It's part of his cost of doing business! Even if he trucks it in. If he wants the sale, he'll eat the cost somehow. Dealers move vehicles around all the time and don't add the cost to the sale, but somehow, somewhere it gets added.

    The link Superf22 gave has excellent, must know, information in it. Like a bible for buying a new focus or any other vehicle for that information.

  • i got my zinc zx3 on wednesday. i get my tint this thursday, and neon lights on wednesday:)
  • zx3zx3 Posts: 167
    You wrote.....
    "*Note 1: Your manual transaxle type should be
    listed on your Safety compliance label and if it
    isn't your dealer should be able to obtain it fromyour VIN number...."

    Where do I find "Safety Compliance label"?
  • zx3zx3 Posts: 167
    Welcome, to Club Z !!
    Best of luck, many happy miles in your new ride. Don't let the Bumble Bees catch you (they might think you're a big yellow flower!).
  • rgarnerrgarner Posts: 37
    I know, the last thing you guys/gals want to discuss is more tranny noise issues. Sorry, but I'm determined to find out what the noise is:

    1-Does anybody have any more ideas on what the "diesel" noise at low RPM's could be? Is is a rattle, something else? More importantly, does it sound serious?

    2-My tranny noise comes and goes, but I noticed the following thing today. After starting my Z she had the slight tranny noise while sitting in neutral. The noise is a subtle rick-tick-tick. However, if I try to engage the gears without using the clutch (just slightly pressing the shifter up), the noise goes away. Conversely, times when I start her and she doesn't make the tranny noise in neutral, I can replicate the noise by slightly pressing the shifter up. Weird, huh?

    On another note, I plan on leaving for my long awaited vacation in two weeks. I plan on changing the oil for the first time before I leave, but is there anything else I should check on (approx. 1000 miles on her when I leave). Since I'm nervous about driving her such a long distance (due to past problems), are there any precautionary measures I can take in advance?
  • jwkessler1jwkessler1 Posts: 99
    rgarner - Be sure you have the oil change and any other work done a few days before you leave so you can detect and correct any screwups before you hit the road. It's not very likely, but some times goofy things happen, like forgetting to tighten the oil filter. It happened to my dad once years ago. He had an oil change done just before going on a long trip. The garage forgot to tighten the drain plug, and the oil light came on on the New England turnpike. Dad was most unhappy.

    The tick tick sounds more like a minor annoyance to me then anything to be really concerned about. Don't obsess over it. Enjoy the trip.

    In my younger days A friend and I frequently made non-stop drives from Winston Salem NC to Alamorgodo NM (1500 miles and 52 hours each way) in an old VW Beetle. That was an adventure. And I lived to tell about it. On one trip the starter gave out and we had to push start the car every time we stopped for gas.

    I think your Focus will prove to be a lot more reliable then that old beetle.

    < I plan on leaving for my long awaited
    < vacation in two weeks. I plan on changing
    < the oil for the first time before I leave.
This discussion has been closed.