Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • As a matter of fact we do have a broken manifold bolt or two.The problem only arises in the summer when the temperature gets over 50 degrees or so.As I live in Manitoba this only happens for a couple of months a year.The actual mileage of the old girl is 267,299 kilometers as I've been told by the old lady.We bought the van in 1999 with 124000 K's and other than tierod ends and CV boots she hasn't cost us anything in repairs.Probably one of the best vehicles I've ever owned.I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one if the right deal came along.But the way she's running I'll probably be driving her another couple of years.Well,gotta run.Gotta change an Egr valve and the oil.Thanks
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Short summer? Sounds like Winterpeg. I guess everyone is sick of that pun by now. :-)

    We've driven across Manitoba a few times, including once in the Quest in '99 - some great country up that way.

    My UPS driver has a '94 Villager and his mechanic managed to break 3 bolts replacing the manifold gasket a few years ago. So he got those replaced at no additional charge.

    Now he has tranny issues from towing a trailer over a pass lots of weekends without a tranny cooler. Pretty much cooked it I think. But he likes the van so much he fixes stuff instead of trading.

    Steve, Host
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    Hey waynerp in your post 1409 you said that you fix/solved the windshield washer lamp problem. Could you give us a short description of what steps you took to fix the windshield washer lamp problem. You said that you removed it from the tank but what exactly did you have to do?
  • devs01devs01 Posts: 9
    I have a '99 Quest with 53,000 miles and the Service Engine Soon light has just come on. This occurred when the van was just a couple months old back in 1999 and the Dealer said it was due to a loose gas cap. My fear is that this time I'll be told the problem is more severe since the van is out of warranty. Has anyone experienced this light coming on and if so, what caused it and how was it fixed. Thanks in advance.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I had the same problem. There are a couple of solutions -

    1)replace the sensor in the washer fluid bottle
    2)unplug the sensor in the washer fluid bottle.

    I chose option # 2 as it was the inexpensive route. Either way, in order to get to the sensor to remove or unplug it, you need to -
    a)raise the front end of the vehicle;
    b)remove the passenger-side front tire;
    c)remove the plastic wheel well liner (or at least the front portion of it);

    Once the wheel well liner is removed, you can see where a wire plugs in at the bottom of the washer fluid tank. Unplug this and the light problem goes away (but you no longer have a low-fluid warning) I taped over the end of the plug to keep dirt out in case I ever want to go back in and replace the sensor and reattach the plug. To finish up, reinstall the liner and replace the wheel.
  • chibuyachibuya Posts: 3
    I have a 96 quest with a blown head gasket. I noticed a very old post listed as a silent recall due to 96 Quest engine problems but I can't find anymore information regarding that.
  • budda1budda1 Posts: 3
    I also have a question on gas mileage. I have a 1998 Villager and whenever I fillup, I get about 280 miles of highway driving per fillup. My question is how big is the tank? I recently have my fuelpump replaced (The one inside the gas tank) It was making that hmmmmming noice that is driving me nuts. Cost me $250 to replace. is that a good price?
    One last question, yesterday I was driving on the highway and all of a sudden my ABS light came on and then went back off after 15 minutes. Should I be concern about it. I just had my breaks done about 1 month ago.

    Thanks in advance.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Please, no caps - shouting is hard to read.

    Check the Used Car Appraiser link for pricing info.

    The drivetrain warranty was 5 years/60,000 miles on the '99.

    Skim back in here for problem spots, like balky power windows.

    Steve, Host
  • 300zx300zx Posts: 2
    Yes, Kel I had a same problem with my 2001 quest. It happens to all the models from 1998 through 2002. Friend of mine just had his done on the 2000 quest.
  • 300zx300zx Posts: 2
    known issues with all Nissan Quest models 1998 through 2002. At around 35K through 60K most folks will experience the sensor failure. Nissan will deny the fact that there is a problem and will charge over $300 to fix this nuisance. I know you may think its no big deal and who cares however this is another bad design and poor quality that needs to be addressed? Have I mentioned the engine lights????
  • bsmithbsmith Posts: 1
    Had a similar problem on my 97 Villager. The dealer wanted $900 for 4 new hoses because they identified a leak in one of the hoses that wind there way under the frame and drivers seat to the rear unit. I took it to a radiator shop here in surburban Detroit to get a second opinion. They found the leak, cut and spliced in a compression fitting , recharged the unit and... bingo... $150 later I had a.c. The rear unit will not work and was diagnosed with a problem in the head unit. (in the dash) It has been fixed for 2 years now and works fine. Good Luck
  • shohjwhshohjwh Posts: 10
    Hey, guys.
    I have a nissan quset gxe 1999 with~83Kmilage.Recently, I can feel a little strange sound?. When mission was changed, especially when I stopped to press accellarator then I felt "Kung". I'm sorry for bad expression and I changed transmission oil at 60k. Please help me to solve this problem.
  • kcrnmalekcrnmale Posts: 47
    My 2001 Villager has poor A/C. It wouldn't blow cold air, only cool air for a long time and then no cool air. I took it to the dealer (under warranty) and they "fixed" it-leaking rear A/C lines. Now cool air again and after 1/2 hour of driving the air finally feels cold again. Any suggestions?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    There's some trouble-shooting tips in this article:

    Tech Center - Air Conditioning

    Steve, Host
  • charles15charles15 Posts: 57
    I have 78K on my 99 Quest and see that the timing belt is not due for change until 105K. That seems like a lot to me for a timing belt on an interference type engine which the Quest is. Anyone changing the belts earlier. I am thinking about 80K.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I think Ford specifically requested that the engine in the Villager/Quests be modified so they aren't interference type engines (although the Pathfinder variation may be).

    I'm at 93,000 miles on my '99 Quest's original timing belt.

    Steve, Host
  • questionerquestioner Posts: 11
    I was planning to flush the tranny on my 96 quest recently But the service consultant at local Nissan dealer suggests me to do a tranny service (drop oil pan and change filter) instead of a tranny flush because he thinks my Quest with 100K miles is a little dangerous to have a tranny flush. While my tranny flush still looks pink and doesn't smell burnt. What's your guys opinion on this? Should I go with a flush or just a service?
  • charles15charles15 Posts: 57
    Steve - sure would be nice to know for sure if our 99 Quest does indeed have a non interference engine. The only thing that I have seen was for the last generation Pathfinder that has the same engine and is listed as interference - meaning of course that if the timing belt fails you can destroy the engine.

    By the way - I had my transmission flushed by the dealer at 60K (my request) and have had no problems.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Dave says it's non interference too :-)

    dhoff May 30, 2001 10:15pm

    An outside source:

    Is the Villager / Quest VG30E an Interference Engine? (under timing belt replacement).

    I don't know about the '04's - anyone?

    Steve, Host
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    If you're worried about fluid "depletion" in a Quest/Villager, perhaps pumping fluid out of the fill tube and replacing it several quarts at a time over maybe several months would clean up the fluid via the dilution principle. I have under 23K miles on my 2000 Villager, and tentatively plan to pump and add using my Mityvac fluid pump (part #07200). I'll wait a while for more mileage first. You can see one of these magnificent pumps at:
    I bought mine several years ago from J.C. Whitney by mail.
  • I have 96 Villager and the ECL came on yesterday. The OBD codes reported Throttle Position Sensor, 1st Gear & 2nd Gear. I read a few forums and some suggested that TPS may be the culprit. Some people even complained that they fixed everything and the light was still on. My van is still running fine and I did not feel any difference than before (tranny shifts smoothly). It will cost about $300 to get TPS replaced (part is $180). Any suggestions will be appreciated.
  • pleased1pleased1 Posts: 1
    I have a '96 Villager with 78,5K miles. It's been a reliable vehicle with very minimal problems. However, recently, while driving, the sliding passenger door will mysteriously pop open. It won't open all of the way, but will catch on the safety latch. The "door ajar" light on the dash lights up. Seems to happen whether the doors are locked or not. Has anyone experienced a similar problem? Any suggestions?
  • glenn1glenn1 Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Villager with 147k miles. I replaced a burned out brake light last week and soon afterwards started to experience an intermittent flashing battery and emergency brake light. Since then, the cruise light will also flash at times and the cruise may not engage or will disengage. The battery and alternator check out fine. I have seen previous mention of possible electrical problems after replacing light bulbs. Has anyone experienced something similar and what was the fix? Thanks.
  • shohjwhshohjwh Posts: 10
    Hey, guys
    I have nissan quest 1999 83K GXE and recently when I turned to right or left I could hear click-click-click sound. This morning, I went to the shop and guy said CD or CDT(?) joint was worned and I need to replace with ~$200 for one part. Eventually, I need to replace two parts. Is it big problem? I'm sorry but I forgot its exact name.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    That's not unusual to have happen, especially given the mileage. I have had the boots covering the CV joints tear on both front axles. The first was caught in time and only needed a new boot and repacked with grease. The second was not caught in time and I needed the CV joint and boot replaced. I would not replace the second joint until the boot or joint fails.
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 180
    Our '95 Quest was bought new about the time our 3rd child was born. Here's the car's problem history, mostly resolved, which I offer in case somebody might find it interesting. Our driving history has been a combination of lots of very short urban trips (school, etc.) with heavily loaded long trips (it has reached Fairbanks and Tuscon). We are now at about 97,500 miles.

    Our first big problem came at 48,000 miles in 1999. An increase in exhaust noise signalled cracks in both exhaust manifolds. Some of the studs had actually cracked off and were totally gone. We were lucky to have this fixed free under the 5/50 powertrain warantee -- however, I suspect that the significant amount of "monkeying around" in the engine bay to replace the manifolds led to a number of other problems we have had over the years since then.

    The most annoying and persistent problems we have had are leaks. It leaked a small but steady (and smelly) amount of coolant for years, and it took 3 or 4 dealer visits ($500 +) to fix. More than one place in and around the engine was leaking. We also had a persistent but intermittent gasoline leak from a fuel line downstream of the filter, underneath the throttle butterfly. This also took several dealer visits and a lot of money to fix. We also have a small oil leak, I think from a crank seal, that we've never fixed. The only fluids we have not leaked are a/c R132a, PSF and ATF.

    We had "check engine" light stuck on, sometime about year 2000. This was EGR valve problem. About this time, knock sensor also died, which we have ignored, although it does knock a lot in summer urban driving. No apparent damage so far though.

    Despite an ATF drain (DIY) every 40,000 or so, we found lightly toasty trans fluid last year at 85k, and did full flush. No transmission behavior problems, though, clear thru to today. Except the designed-in 4th/3rd/4th/3rd/4th/3rd you get in the mountains.

    The brakes have been OK, just a couple of front pad replacements which turned out to have been done with plenty of miles left. They tend to be sqeaky at low speed and take more pedal effort than I'd like though.

    The passive seatbelts were hated from day one but still work as designed. Occasionally in cold wet weather (we always park in the street) they fail to move forward when the door is opened, but a jab at the intertia switch reset button (the red button by the parking brake pedal) gets them going again.

    Sometime about five years ago, the glovebox wouldn't open. I think the handle got disconnected from the latch. I used brute force and tools to cut the latch, which permanently bruised the dash padding. I then had to also disable the hold-open spring because glued-in velcro would not dependably keep the lid closed.

    A constant annoyance for me has been the totally crummy 1960's technology Ford lock cylinders in ignition and doors. Their internal parts, apparently a mixture of steel wool and sandpaper grit, have worn the edges off 4 or 5 keys my wife and I have carried over the years. Long ago, we learned to be careful to check that the ignition was actually locked after we pulled out the key. I realized it was time to take action finally when we started feeling the key wiggle independent of the lock cylinder "ears" as we started the engine last month. It was a pleasant surprise to find that a brand-new 1960's Ford ignition lock is available from the Nissan parts counter for about $40 and it takes only 15 minutes to put it in. Now we have a car that feels like a brand-new 1969 Ford when you turn the key again.

    The tailgate window latch rattles a lot. There are a couple of poker chips loose behind the speedometer, or at least it sounds like that.

    The rear shock absorbers pretty much fell apart by 9 years / 90,000 miles. I replaced them, and the struts, with new KYB, myself, and they work well except that I didn't properly torque the strut center shaft at first, and we still have some mysterious creaks and clunks somewhere in the running gear.

    The air cleaner black plastic box is the most irritating idiotic design I can imagine -- difficult to reach and open, hard to align properly, and prone to misassembly. I wonder how much un-filtered air our engine has breathed over the years.

    My wife has reported several false alarms of "low oil" over the years, while I have never seen one. I don't know what's going on, but I somehow think this is related to the old problem of the crummy ignition lock, and pulling out the key not in the "off" position.

    Things that have always worked perfectly: power windows, power seat, a/c, power mirrors, power locks, ABS. (We don't have a sunroof.) Our overall average gas mileage has been 18mpg. The best we've ever done is maybe 23.

    I can hardly wait to get a Sienna or '05 Odyssey -- 4 doors! More room! An extra 100 or so horsepower! 5th gear! Stability control! More airbags! No silly-seatbelts! Maybe a sunroof and roll-down sliding door windows!
  • corsicachevycorsicachevy Posts: 316
    My wife, who I love dearly, purchased a pop-up camper from her aunt yesterday. This, of course, was done without my input.

    Well, now I'm a camper owner and was wondering what sort of experience people have had towing with a Quest/Villager. "My" camper only weighs 2070lbs, so it falls well within the manufacturer's recommended towing capacity of 3000lbs. Should I get an oil cooler? A transmission cooler?

    Any advice would be welcome.
This discussion has been closed.