Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    I took it to a Nissan dealer and had the timing belt, accessory belts and water pump changed. They also put in new coolant and cam seals. It was around $750. I could have had the same work done at an independent garage for a few hundred less but since there are some "special" things about the Quest (like the importance of getting the belt tension correct, and the special procedure for bleeding the cooling system) I wanted to be sure it was done right.

    It's still running great with about 128,000 miles. Does have a few things that need attention though. A couple of the instrument lights are burned out (but the speedometer is still legible, thus the procrastination) and the washer fluid warning light is permanently on.

    I will probably fix the washer light situation once the weather warms up. The fix is to replace the washer fluid tank, the sensor is bad and can't be purchased separately. I told my wife "I don't think I want you to get used to driving the van with one of the idiot lights on. If the temperature or oil light came on you might not notice it". She gave me a strange look and said "Are you calling me an idiot?"

    I'm not sure I was able to convince her that is what they are called.

  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    It may be a bad connection on the circuit board of the rear control. I have heard of this before.

    Check out this link:

    Click on SUBTOPICS and you will find instructions complete with photographs of how to fix it, if you are so inclined.

  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    That's about two car payments. :-)

    Steve, Host
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    The washer fluid low light is connected to a "seeing eye" that looks through the bottom of a side wall of the tank. When it fails to "see" fluid a circuit is completed and the dash light comes on. If you remove the seeing eye unit from the circuit, the circuit simply remains open pemanently, and the dash light is defeated. Mine has been off for months with no negative consequences, other than an unneeded idiot light being out of service. So! Just unplug the rascal and tell your wife she is certainly not a target of an idiot light! >;o]
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Car payments... I remember those.

    Probably the end of summer/fall I will have to get rid of the Mazda 626 I've had the last couple of years. Decent looking car, got it for a great price, but it's been in the shop way too much for my taste. Hope to get a new Honda Accord, and it will probably come with a nice payment book.

    WTD, thanks for the advice. I'll give that a try.

  • cordeliacordelia Posts: 2
    Thanks a heap Dave. We will be having a serious discussion with the service manager today.

  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    Let me know how it goes. It's best to go into these kinds of things with a respectful, but firm, attitude. At least to start. :-)

    Hope it goes well.

  • ronnybronnyb Posts: 1
    My 93 Villager keeps stopping on me. It was in an accident (passenger side front panel) and since I got it back from the body shop it keeps blowing the "Eng Cont" fuse (#7 in fuse box). I can't figure out where the short is, any suggestions? Help, I'm desparate.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    I have a 98 Villager. I just had my timing belt replaced, new water pump, flushed and replaced coolant, two lower hoses (lower radiator and by pass), three belts and I had the brake fluid bled and replaced. I paid 424 for this service which I think is very reasonable. I had the timing belt replaced at a little less than 79k because of the age of the vehicle.

    Does the Quest have a serpentine belt. I can say for sure that a 98 Villager doesn't. I find it odd that the Quest would have a serp belt considering these vehicles are mechanical copies.
  • 03accord03accord Posts: 2
    I have a problem I hope ya'll can help with....

    I have a 99 villager and the problems occured in this order over a span of a couple of months:

    tachometer stuck, no longer works
    fuel gauge stuck on full (low fuel indicator also does not work)
    thermostat gauge stuck in middle

    I am not sure were problem is, but mercury dealer wanted $250 to take off instrument cluster just to check and said that it could cost as much as $425 if whole cluster needed to be replaced.

    Any ideas where I could start so I could repair myself? Thanks for any info!
  • wtd44wtd44 Posts: 1,211
    I would suggest that you locate and purchase the Haynes manual #64200. This will get you started toward a solution.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I dunno - I have a '99 Quest with a sticky tach and I have the factory repair manual, and it hasn't been helpful in troubleshooting this issue.

    Steve, Host
  • Get this - I just had my van in for its 60,000 mile (actually 65,000) servicing and was told that my STOCK brake pads are only half worn out. That was a pleasant surprise given what many on this board have posted about premature brake wear.

    Kudos to my wife for taking it easy on the brakes!

    On a different note, my flip down screen decided to call it quits. Apparently it costs over $1000 to replace the unit, but the guys and my service center took a flyer on trying repair it themselves. None of them had ever taken one of these units apart, so it was unchartered territory for them. Once inside, they discovered two wires that appear to have been designed to stretch had failed. They spliced in a couple segments, put it back together and it worked!!

    Thank goodness, because I'm taking the family on trip to Florida for Easter and the absence of that screen would have made for a painful journey (Madison, WI to Englewood, FL).
  • sea93sea93 Posts: 1
    I'm getting a P1105 code every so often on my 99 Villager.
    What is this?
    The Ford list says its an alternator code.
  • fedup2fedup2 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 mercury villager, and auto zone told me i needed a knock sensor and a speed sensor, i looked in the service manual and preformed all test to see if they are ok... and they are.. but check engine light is still on when i went back to clear them out? i just want to know is there anything else to do before wasting the money on the parts...they are expensive....
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Try your local auto parts store - often they have the code books and will look stuff up for free.

    Steve, Host
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I swapped out my passenger side CV axle last Thursday and so far the van hasn't collapsed by the side of the road. I had a friend (with tools) help me out and it seemed to go a lot easier with help. The part was $170 and I decided to replace the whole thing instead of just replacing the busted outer boot since the miles are getting up there.

    Steve, Host
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,561

    Congratulations on your axle replacement. I had the pleasure once; it's easy. IF you can get to it, and IF the bolts come undone as they should, and IF you don't have to bust the ball joints etc. apart just to get the maneuvering done. Ugh.

    While you're on a roll, would you mind peering through your oil filler cap and sticking you pinky in and telling me if there's a layer of sticky goo in there? Pretty please?

    I'm still interested in the Villager I posted about a couple weeks ago, and I'd like to know if the peculiar design of the valve cover makes oil appear sludgy.

    I'm starting with the assumption, of course, that you've done the proper oil changes :-)

  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Hey Mathias,

    The only IF that bugged us was that the part didn't arrive by UPS until 3 hours before I had to take my mechanic friend (and his tools) to the airport.

    On my way out to the garage just now, I told my wife that I was certain that I'd find goo on the cap. But I didn't - nor is there any that I can see or feel on the top of the engine through the filler hole. I must be thinking of our old Voyager. It always had a whitish, oft frothy goo in the filler cap (it liked to eat head gaskets too).

    So maybe I'm expecting whitish goo instead of some sort of oil film or shellac? Yours looked like old thick oil? Anyone else care to go exploring with their pinkies in their oil filler and report back?

    I change the oil every 7,500 miles on the Quest (as the manual says) and I'm about due for one - my last one was done in August '04.

    Steve, Host
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,561
    Thanks a bundle. Saved me the heartache to have the van checked out for $70 or so, only to find that I don't want it.
    I really appreciate it.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    I'm still editing - can you give more info describing your goo? And what does it tell you? I've never seen the sludged Siennas that got so much bad press.

    Steve, Host
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,561

    It's not "my" goo... it's a van I'd like to buy, but when I checked it out, I could tell the oil wasn't in very good shape.

    My Sienna is fine, and likely to stay that way... with all the baffling on the Toyota 3.0, though, there is no chance to tell if something is wrong. The only way is to remove the valve cover and look at the valve train directly. Not something a private seller will likely let you do in his driveway. If you look into the filler, you will always see some black, crusty, dry crud sitting on top of the baffle. It's the residue that just sits there after you put oil in. Looks bad. But they all do that. Really.

    Back to the Villager/Quest; the one I'm looking at (99 w/ 80k mi) has an all-black valve cover, making it hard to see inside. Even with a flashlight, though, what you see is the top of *another* cover, rather than the cams and lifters, as you would on a Ford, say. This cover is also black; painted steel or anodized Al; I assume the former.

    Anyway, in this particular van, there is a 1/8 or 1/16" layer of black gooey slime covering the metal surfaces you can reach from the oil filler cap. Not a confidence builder. When you pull the dipstick, the oil is still, uh, liquid, but it looks pitch black. The longest I've ever let one of my cars go was 6k, and it sure didn't look anything like that.

    I was just curious if the design of the valve cover made some oil just sit on top and gel. IOW, I wanted to know whether "they all do that".

    Apparerently not.

    Thanks again,
  • shiftshift Posts: 10
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,003
    Just because the water pump was replaced (and 28000 miles is quite a few) doesn't mean it's still good. Especially if it was a rebuilt one like most shops put in. I know people who've replaced rebuilt starters 2 or 3 times before finally going to the dealer for a new OEM part.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I had a similar problem. It turned out to be a loose hose clamp on a coolant line where it enters the firewall on the passenger side of the engine. Leaks came when the vehicle was cold. Once the hoses heated up, they swelled up which kept them from leaking. If your vehicle was up to operating temperature when it was pressure-tested, no leaks may have been detected which led the mechanic to assume that your water pump was at fault.
  • kandmjkandmj Posts: 2
    I just got a 96 nissan quest van with a built in security system. I have lost the remote to the alarm. My little girl managed to set the alarm by playing with the door lock switch in the van. now I cant start the engine. I had to disconnect the battery to stop the alarm. any idea how to disable the security system? please help.
  • shiftshift Posts: 10
    Is this the heater hose with a loose clamp that you mentioned? i also check the water pump leak indicator by using an inspection mirror, I don't see any trace of coolant around that area.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    Yes, the heater hose. I believe that there are two of them at the firewall. Sometimes easier to reach from below than from above.

    Good Luck!
  • nj_jcnj_jc Posts: 1
    Hi everybody:

    I have a 96 Villager. The light bulb in the climate control buttons went out. Can anybody tell me how to remove the panel surrounding the controls to change the bulb?

    Thanks NJ_JC
  • danparrydanparry Posts: 1
    I've had a sequence of problems lately with my '95 Nissan Quest, 170K miles. I left my lights on one day and when attempting to charge the battery my main fuse went. Couple weeks later the starter shorted and I had to replace that. Now it won't start and my mechanic tells me it is the timing belt. Has any experienced this sequence of repairs? I'm wondering if I'm at the end of a series of repairs or if they are going to keep on coming. How much has timing belt repair cost others?
This discussion has been closed.