Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Have you recently used your tax refund (or are you planning on using your tax refund) toward the payment of a new or used vehicle? Or, are you planning on using your tax refund toward any expenses related to your car?
If so, a reporter would like to talk to you. Please reach out to [email protected] by Friday, January 25 and the Edmunds PR team may connect you with the journalist.

Are you the parent of a generation Z child (born in the mid-1990s to the early 2000s)? Do you have differing opinions on the importance of buying a car, what types of vehicles you're interested in, or just how you view cars in general? If so, a reporter would like to speak with you and your child. Please reach out to [email protected] by Friday, January 25 and the Edmunds PR team may connect you with the journalist.

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • farnorth2farnorth2 Posts: 2
    Wondering if anyone has experienced a similar problem to this one....

    First my check engine light came on. Ignored it because the van was running fine and this has happened a couple times before where the light stayed on for a day or two and then went out....I always figured it was some water in the gas or a sensor that was intermittantly acting up.

    Anyway, the light was on for about a week when suddenly I developed another problem, the car would not shift properly. It seemed stuck in first or second with the RPMs going up and then suddenly at around 3200rpm the trans would "catch" and lurch into gear. It would then drive fine as long as I did not slow down and drop into a lower gear or which case it start all over again with not upshifting. Also I noticed that when I start the car the O/D OFF light will flash at me. A check of the transmission fluid showed that it was somewhat dark and looked higher than it should be on the stick.

    I had no idea if the engine light and the shifting problem were related....I guess I am still not sure.

    Next I pulled the transmission pan and drained the tran fluid...dirty looking but not really burnt smelling. The filter was clean looking (it is just over a year since I changed it). I cleaned the filter....found a few miniscule metal fragments in it and a small piece of plastic? Nothing much on the magnets. I put it all back together with new fluid but no change.

    I finally found a way to read the codes using a jumper wire and came up with the following fault codes:

    0302 EGR insufficient flow, 0304 Knock sensor fault, 1103 A/T first gear signal fault, 1206 Throttle position sensor to A/T signal fault.

    So my next plan of action is to test and/or replace the TPS to see if that helps.

    I am hoping this means my problem is electrical/signal in nature and not a mechanical problem with my trans.....because I was a phonecall away from having a different transmission put in my van.

    Any suggestions appreciated.
  • bkmotoringbkmotoring Posts: 1
    Hello i am having the same problem that you have posted previously with a customer vehicle. I was wondering did you ever find a solution? Please let me know. Thank you
  • farnorth2farnorth2 Posts: 2
    Follow up to my transmission shifting problems.

    Installing a new TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) solved the problem.

    What seemed like a slipping transmission was just the TPS not sending the signals that tell the transmission when to shift gears.

    Everything seems to be working great and we erased the codes by taking of the battery ground for a few minutes.

    Have gone out for three drives with it and no Check Engine light has far...not even the EGR code.

    YAY !

    I am so glad I found info on the web that told us that many Mercury Villager and Nissan Quest owners have needlessly replaced transmissions when it was only the TPS. So if you ever have transmission problems...don't replace the transmission before you make sure your Throttle Position Sensor is the culprit first.

    :) :) :) :) :)
  • nlc63nlc63 Posts: 6
    I have a 1996 Vilager.
    Amazing, I had the exact same problems and codes. Actually, I had a 3rd. and fourth gear a/t code instead of 1st gear.
    What I found was:
    1. broken hose ( about 2 inches long) at the EGR-BPT valve.
    2. TPS tested faulty, but acually was working properly; it only had to be rotated slightly. The TPS sends a signal indicating the engine being at idle. Apparently this signal is very important to the trans. control module, because that is what was causing my transmission problems!!!!!!!!! I don't remember the specifics, but I used the Haynes repair manual - it tells you to adjust the TPS so that at idle you have a certain voltage (I think 5v). Do yourself a favor and probe the wiring harness to check to voltage with the connector connected.
    I still have the knock sensor code. testing says that the sensor is bad, but I don't believe it (maybe because of the price and the dificulty of changing it - need to remove the upper and lower intake manifold!)
    Hope this helps. I'm curious to know how you make out with your knock sensor.
  • nlc63nlc63 Posts: 6
    I guess I should have checked the new messages before sending the previous message. Anyway, my check engine light also cleared after adjusting the TPS; however, it came back about a month later: KNOCK SENSOR again.
  • gzvillgzvill Posts: 1
    I have a 97 villager. The Check Engine lights was on recently. It comes out OBDII DTC P0135 (O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1) and the following OBD Monitor Readiness Status:
    Catalyst: Not Ready
    Oxygen Sensor: Not Ready
    Oxygen Sensor Heater: Not Ready
    EGR System: Not Ready

    I was focus on the P0135 issue first, replaced the upstream Oxygen Sensor and then erased the DTC. After the 20 minutes driving, I parked it on my driveway and turned off ignition. Waited for about 5 minutes and turned on the ignition again. The Check Engine light was returned. Problem was not fixed. It's not the Oxygen Sensor Heater problem. It's the circuit problem, but I don't know where the problem is. I will be very much appreciate if anybody can share their experience on this board.
  • trackermctrackermc Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Quest, 98k miles. Just in the last month, I noticed a thumping sound when in gear, no noise when parked and engine reving. No loss of power, I replaced all spark plugs, doesn't look like misfires. Again, engine sounds fine when reving in park. But as soon as I put it in gear and not even going fast, the thumping sound is heard, it also increases with gas.
    Any ideas where I should look? I'm guessing tranny problems - trans oil is fine.
    Maybe fuel filter?
  • jim60jim60 Posts: 1
    The front windsheild washer squiters are clogged. I've eliminated other causes and now I realize the clog is in the line UNDER THE PLASTIC COVER UNDER THE WIPER ARMS. How do I get the cover off to see the final section of hocing and the bottom of the squirters?
  • We just bought this GXE w/170k miles less than a week ago - the owner said he'd just spent $425+/- fixing the timing belt - he had just recently repo'd it - the buyers had abandoned it - we checked it out - the oil, etc - drove it - everything appeared fine - no check engine lights, no smoking - then Fri night 5/27 - it just stopped at a stop sign & it sounded like it would start - my husband thought it sounded like the engine was flooding but we ended up pushing it into a parking lot & towing it - at first we thought it was the fuel pump - but it's working - then we changed the distributor cap - the mechanic working on it showed us how the fuel injectors are receiving power even when the key is off - he said this means there is a short in the system & all the lines (according to schematics) lead to the computer - the mechanic saw that a line had been disconnected - he reconnected it - but the car didn't start - the distributor cap is getting spark - the ignition is working - any advice? Oh - at first he couldn't find the computer - he has since found it - he brought one from the salvage yard where he works - but it's not the same - anyone familiar with this problem? any advice would be most appreciated! Thanx
  • questorquestor Posts: 1
    Don't have any input on you're EGR problem but have a question about a 2002 post of cold start ticking? Did you ever figure it out and/or fix it? I'm having the same problem...occasional loud ticking on a cold start. Temps are in the 70's and I'm using 5W30 so I'm wondering if I have serious issues. Mail me at [email protected]
    Jeff Bragg
  • jsills78jsills78 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Mercury Villager Sport. The blower comes on every ten seconds or so when it is idling. I have taken it to the local dealership and they hooked it up to some machine and say they find nothing. Is this normal for a car to do. I've never seen one do this before.
  • jr714jr714 Posts: 24
    Hi all,
    I am a satisfied owner of a '93 Villager with 170K and I have been planning to trade it in for a newer one, mostly for the double doors. Since I have a bunch of kids and need the 2nd row bench seat, I'm limiting my search to non-captain's chair '99-'00 Quest SE's or '01-'02 GXE's (and the Villager equivalents). Can anyone tell me if there are any advantages of the '01-'02 over the '99-'00 models or vice-versa?
  • lyinhartlyinhart Posts: 2
    I have a '94 Quest with similar problem. Thumping was driving me nuts.... Also thought it was tranny....... Until I turned off the Air conditioner. Discovered that whenever I had the heater or Air on there's a thumping.........Haven't fixed it yet....But at least it not MY tranny, Hope it's not yours either.
  • lyinhartlyinhart Posts: 2
    When you say "blower", do you mean the blower in the passenger compartment which is used for blowing in the hot or cool air from the heater or air, or do you mean the "FAN" at the radiator (under the hood) which happens to be electric and DOES come on at certain temperatures which means it WILL come on and off very often (which is NORMAL).
  • scotth1scotth1 Posts: 1

    What is the process / parts needed to change out the driver's side power window switch on a 99 Villager? Mine just went today (I am guessing that is what it is since the window will not move up and it is in the down position). I cannot hear the motor attempting to run so I think it must be the switch.

    Please advise - thanks.
  • marku1marku1 Posts: 11
    I have a 95 Villager. The front seat belts both locked in the B pillar position(back) at the same time. The manual only lists what to do if the belt sticks in the forward position. The motorized belts have never had a problem. I thought it might be a fuse but the panel does not identify one for the motorized shoulder belts?! Any help would be appreciated. Surely this is not the first time this has happened with this belt system. Thanks, Mark
  • cookie2cookie2 Posts: 7
    The EGR problem is simply the system needs cleaned and there is a hose you need to check too.
  • cookie2cookie2 Posts: 7
    Its easy it just pops out by prying gently and unplug the connector. A small screw driver or something to pry is all you need a kitchen knife will probably work. You don't need to take anything apart.
  • jsills78jsills78 Posts: 2
    I mean the radiator fan, sorry. I understand it should come on at certain temps, but should it start as soon as the van is cranked? It starts blowing every ten seconds as soon as you crank it. It just runs for a few seconds and cuts back off. Same thing over and over again until we start going.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    What Cookie2 said.

    There's one screw hidden by a plastic cap in the door arm area; remove the cover and the screw and you can lift the whole door arm piece out. Then you can disconnect the switch from the wiring. The switch itself is held in place by 4 screws, so after you remove the connector (you may have to squeeze the sides while prying it off), it's an easy replacement. The part is about $80 last I heard.

    If you want to try to repair the switch, see my earlier post and maybe have a replacement lined up at the dealer first. :)

    Jr714, my Quest is a '99 and the crash ratings weren't so hot on it. Nissan improved the restraint system and did some other changes and the ratings got better in later years. Otherwise check for balky wiper switches and power window switches. Mine seems to be running ok at 104,500 miles; I did a recent CV boot/axle replacement and the tach is sticky.

    Steve, Host
  • spike59spike59 Posts: 4
    Hi, dmoniz or anyone with information on the front blower problem on 99' Villager...The only fan speed that works is the high or setting #3. The two front blower fuses are OK, the 10A relay is OK and the 65A under the hood appears to be OK. ANY suggestions...dmoniz said he replace the "sensor board". Is there onfomation on this procedure? I read about soldered connections??? Any information would be appreciated...
    Thanks in advance, Mike
  • spike59spike59 Posts: 4
    Anyone with information on the front blower problem on 99' Villager...The only fan speed that works is the high or setting #3. The two front blower fuses are OK, the 10A relay is OK and the 65A under the hood appears to be OK. ANY suggestions...dmoniz said he replace the "sensor board". Is there onfomation on this procedure? I read about soldered connections??? Any information would be appreciated...
    Thanks in advance, Mike
  • tab1tab1 Posts: 1
    My wife was recently stranded 500 miles from home when her 95 Villager began having problems on the highway. From a cold start or at low speeds, she said it ran fine. But once the engine had a chance to warm up and she tried to take it over 40-45mph, the van began to lurch and backfire.

    An inspection of the fuel, fuel lines and replacement of the fuel filter turned up nothing and did not eliminate the problem. Further inspection, however, turned up a "melted" catalytic converter containing pieces of the exhaust manifold. A complete replacement of the exhaust system still, however, did not eliminate the symptoms she described. This is when the diagnostic computer turned up a code showing a faulty knock sensor.

    A dealership service department informed her that this was the culprit and charged approx. $1000 parts/labor for the "repair". 5 days into this, she was told she could pick up the van, but when she did, the symptoms returned immediately!

    After replacing the sensor a second time, they then tried swapping out an ignition module and then an ignition coil. Eventually, through trial and error, it appears the actual culprit was the distributor.

    My question, though, after reading several posts in this forum, is whether a faulty knock sensor could even possibly have been the culprit. We're finding out after the fact that this service department has a reputation for encouraging unnecessary repairs (its rumored the techs are paid on commision). We were told that the damage to the exhaust system was caused by overheated exhaust going to/through the exhaust manifold. Could an inoperative knock sensor possibly have caused the symptoms she was experiencing or lead to the damage of the exhaust system that we had to replace?
  • jmishkajmishka Posts: 5
    I am not sure if anyone replied to this yet or not but I am pretty sure you can look in the manual that came with the van to see how the plastic cover comes off. I was looking to change the HEPA filter on my 99 Quest and I called the service guy and he told me there were instructions on how to take off the plastic "collar" because the HEPA filter is under it. When I found out the price of a new filter I did not bother looking this info up.

    My van is with a friend right now so I cant confirm but try looking it up under the cabin filter replacement section. Also the service guy said that they are a major pain to get on and off. He also mentioned something about special clips (or something like clips) that can give you problems but I can't remember if that was for the filter or the collar...sorry.
    Good Luck,
  • jmishkajmishka Posts: 5
    I have a 99 Quest withone heck of a problem. Recently my father and I changed the front brakes and rotors as the pads were very low and the rear shoes as they were getting low as well. Yet there is a weird problem that not one person has been able to figure out...including the Nissan dealer.
    After putting on the rear shoes on both sides we put on the drums and reversed the lug nuts so the flat side would be touching the drum (no tire at this poitn) and tightened them just finger tight.. Then we spun the drum to see if everything was moving freely before putting the tires back on. Well the passenger side was fine but the drives side would only spin for 1 revolution and then the lug nuts in the 4 to 5 o'clock positions would become so tight you couldnt loosen them without the lug wrench and the nut in the 10 to 11 o'clock position would be away from the drum about a 1/32 or so, enough to easily see the space gap.

    So we adjusted the tension screw to bring the shoes all the way in with no luck.

    We filed the metal edges of the shoe down because we thought they might be dragging because we saw some shiney non-black areas after the first couple of spinning attempts but no luck.

    So we thought the shoes were not the same but both sides match in length and width and match the old ones except in length the new ones are about 1 inch longer.

    So we thought the drum might be out of round so we swapped drums and again no problem on the passenger side but the same problem on the drivers side so the drum is ok.

    So we took the shoes off, checked behind them etc and there was no debris and we checked the backer plate which seemed ok so we put the shoes back on again and still the same drivers side issue.

    So then we thought the bearing had been extened too far and had wedged itself sideways in the shaft so we took a look at that and all seemed ok. We did not take the bearing out because then you must replace it and it is self-contained and cant be "repacked" or so we were told by Nissan dealer. But there were not burnt areas and it seemed in the correct position.

    So we put everything back together, drum still stuck but I drove the thing down the road anyway and the wheel did turn and the brakes worked but the drivers side drum gets REALLY hot as compared to the passenger side drum.

    So because we ran out of ideas we have put the old shoes back on the drivers side and are looking for some...any... ideas. The local parts guy made me promise to tell him what it turns out to be as they are quite intrigued at this point.

    One thing is that when you beat (and I mean really hard on the drum) with a hammer after you reach the "no more turning freely point" you can get the drum to turn another 1/4 turn or so with "each beating" but it is very difficult to turn and only my father can turn it I am not strong enough. When you first tighten up the lug nuts finger tight you can get one full revolution but then no more unless you really wail on it to get the xtra 1/4 turns.

    We are at this point thinking the back plate or axle is off but it works fine/spins-freely when we put the old almost spent brake shoes on, which are the same width as the new shoes but an inch shorter than the new ones.

    We didnt notice any undue wear on the inside face of the drum either. But we did notice that the shoe in the most rear position was wearing funny on the bottom side, the innermost area on the pad (at the very bottom closest the backing plate) is worn about 1/2 inch up in an excessive manner but on the outermost bottom area is worn 1.5 inches up the pad in an excessive manner like it has been sheared off or someone filed it...but you can see the wear lines so it wasnt "sheared" per se.

    We seem to have stumped everyone we have spoken to in our area and any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

    PS Also the front brakes get very hot now and smoke when I drive through puddles of water. Is this normal? (The pads were very low before so that may be why I never noticed before and the calipers are functioning fine ie not stuck open from formerly low pads etc)
  • nlc63nlc63 Posts: 6
    question to tab1: was it the distributer or the distributer cap that was the problem? If it was the distributer, how did they diagnose it? I am asking because I also have a knock sensor code (but no symptoms). Thanks.
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 1,222
    Welcome to the Forums, jmishka! You might also want to ask your questions of the experts in the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes Forum.



    Need help getting around? [email protected] - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Tell everyone about your buying experience: Write a Dealer Review

  • let me know if you have any luck finding out the cause of your problem, as i will do the same for you. we have a '93 nissan quest with the SAME exact problem we were advised to change the Distributor and rotor. did that, no change, went back then were advised to change the plugs and wires. did that, and no change....then the fuel filter was suggested as the final guessed it...did that no change! we are at a loss. so far, 300.00 down, and no sucess. the van runs GREAT on a cold start for approx. 30 minutes, then with no warning starts with the chugging/backfiring/and loss of power (can't get it over 40 mph. i would appreciate any help you can provide as i will do the same for you! i am leaning towards the problem being the fuel pump, however i am in no mood to change that, only to find "NO CHANGE" yet again!
  • dbrem26dbrem26 Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem with my 00' Villager. I don't know if it is exactly the same but it was the front blower motor resistor. It is located under the passenger side dash in front of the blower motor. If you can get your head under there, you don't need to remove the glove box or anything. There are wires running from the blower motor to a wide plug that is plugged into the resistor. Unplug this. Then use an 8mm nut driver to remove the two screws holding in the resistor. The resistor will then slide out. Normally hidden from view, once you pull it you will see the circuit board and it is probably fried. Mine was fried and the corner even broke off. Local Mercury dealer had the part in stock for $32. Replaced it and it works fine now. Dealer said that it just happens sometimes with these. Fairly common so they stock the part. Hope that helps.
  • kkightkkight Posts: 1
    Hi everyone! I'm new to this board, but really didn't know what else to do. I have a 2000 Nissan Quest, and so far, not any real problems. However, today my van just started locking itself, over and over! At first I thought maybe the battery was just going dead in my remote, so I popped it apart, but the van continued to blow, and lock itself. The only way I stopped it was to disconnect the battery cables! I would take it to the dealership, but I'm 45 minutes to the nearest one. Has anyone else had this problem, or any suggestions for me? Thanks in advance~ K
This discussion has been closed.