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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    This is a continuation of a discussion I've been having with desaljs, in our main Nissan quest discussion (posts #963, #977 and on...), regarding his 99 SE Quest idle problem. As some of you may recall, I also had a similar problem with my previous 99 Quest.

    Hi desaljs-

    Just curious what they did to reset your timing? Did they disconnect the negative battery cable for a few minutes, and reconnect, so the computer would reset itself...? If not, you may want to try doing that. That actually helped improve my (previous) van's idle problem.

    Also, if you're using regular gas, switching to premium might help... especially if it's a knock sensor problem. Btw, if it is the knock sensor, I don't recommend replacing it, but instead just use premium gas. It's very costly to replace, and not worth the hassles (i.e. coolant leaks) that may follow, imho.

    Lastly, just curious what kind of driving you normally do? I did a lot of stop/go city driving, which I think may have contributed to my idle problem. Taking it out on the highway every now and then to clean out the injectors might help. Anyway, just a few ideas.

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    Was the clicking noise constant or intermittent? Also, where was this lose cotter pin located? I only hear this clicking sound occasionally.

    I'll probably wait until my next oil change, before I deal with it again... if at all. The van's running fine otherwise, so at this point I'm not really worried about it. Just nit picking. ;-)


    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

  • pda97pda97 Posts: 91
    The noise could be heard at low speed. At high speed, road noise just drowned it out. Try driving next to a wall or a quiet back alley somewhere. It was constant. The cotter pin is part of the wheel hub. Remove the plastic wheel cover and you'll see it. If you have aluminum rims, remove the wheel nuts cover plate.
  • desaljsdesaljs Posts: 24
    I will continue the discussion here. I did disconnect the negative terminal as you advised. Left it off for about 10 minutes. Re-connected and did note a slight improvement in idle. But the roughness remains. I will also try to use premium fuel for several weeks and see what that does. Will hold off on the knock sensor replacement for now. It is an expensive gamble and my wife is happy to drive it as is for now. Other than at idle, it runs great, so no harm in waiting for now. If it starts to run poorly, I will schedule a service call. I did use this problem when filling out my survey on my "5 Star Dealer". Hopefully my constructive criticism will get me some warranty action at the dealer. I was not unhappy with the way I was treated, just not happy with the result of the repair.
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    You said: "I did disconnect the negative terminal as you advised. Left it off for about 10 minutes. Re-connected and did note a slight improvement in idle."

    That's good to hear. If you just did this today, it may improve a little more over the next few days.

    You said: "I will also try to use premium fuel for several weeks and see what that does."

    If using premium eliminates the problem, then it very likely could be the knock sensor. But as I mentioned before, I wouldn't recommend replacing it, considering the costs and possible complications that could follow.

    The knock sensor is very difficult to get to on the Quest. Out of warranty, you're looking at around $500, or more, to replace. Standard labor is 5.2 hours ($65 per hour) , add that to $165 for the part.

    Also, since the sole purpose of the knock sensor is to adjust the engine timing so it won't knock/ping with low octane (regular) gas, it would be more cost efficient to use just premium gas, instead of replacing, imo.

    I read somewhere that the "average savings" of using regular over premium is around $60-$70 per year. Depending on how much driving you do, it could take a lot of years using regular gas over premium... to recoup the loss on a $500 knock sensor replacement. My 2 cents. ;-)

    Hatchbacks & Wagons Host

  • I have a 2002 Villager and the week before Christmas there was water running into the passenger side floor. Took it to the dealer, they said they couldn't get it to leak, but ordered a new window gasket for it. The next day, the brake and battery light started flickering then stayed on all the time. It's been 3 weeks since this all first started and they still haven't gotten the thing fixed. Anyone have any ideas of what's causing this? Other than the gallon of water that leaked in the van????? :)

    Also, we have terrible vibration in vehicle, especially the middle seat. Anyone else had any luck fixing that? I saw some old posts on that trouble.

    Alexa Garrett
  • keegeekeegee Posts: 1
    Hello to all. I am new here so I may be kind of long-winded my first go-round. Basically I am at my wits end with Ford. I purchased a 1998 Mercury Villager a little over a year ago,no problems up until two months ago. I was driving down the road on cruise and it was like something suddenly broke inside and it started skipping and check engine light blinking. So I took it in. To make the long story short I have had it in and out of the local dealer four times in two months,paying for spark plugs,wires,and testing. Nothing has fixed problem. So now they decide to take engine apart (which whatever problem found here would be covered under extended warranty) well they found sludge under the valve cover today and now they say that whatever problem they may find will not be covered under warranty because Ford will not approve it because of sludge(which is a sign of lack of maintenance). Now I have taken care of vehicle,having it serviced every 3000 miles,etc... so it has to be previous owner right? Well apparently Ford will still not cover it even if I show proof that I have taken care of vehicle. So whatever they find I will have to pay out a pretty penny. I called Ford and argues with them as to why I have even been paying a warranty if this was going to come up. It isn't fair that I pay for someone else's mistakes but they said those are the rules. This all sounds strange to me. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. I certainly hope no one out there has experienced what I have these two months!
  • Keegee, I'm no lawyer, but that's like a breech of contract. How could you have ever known what the previous owner had done with the vehicle. Is this not the reason we purchase an extended warranty? Again, I might be out of line, becuase I don't have a law degree but this needs to be brought to buyers attention. The reason I purchase an extended warranty is becuase in the first place vehicle manufacturers are saying that their product isn't worth crap by putting a 3/36,000 warranty on them anyways, my opinion. You purchase a vehicle, pay for what seems like a lifetime only to find out 2 years down the road that it won't get 50,000 miles on it. The second reason is because of the exact reason you just mentioned. I buy it for the transmission and engine. Maybe get with someone who knows something about warranty contracts. If they are selling extended warranties and then refusing to cover them, this sounds fraudulant.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    You may get some free advice from your local state attorney general's office. They usually have consumer protection departments. Lots of lawyers give free or cheap initial consultations too (get a list from your local bar association).

    Steve, Host
  • kwightkwight Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 1998 Villager LS with 53,000 miles at an auction for $6500. The vehicle seems to run great with the common exhaust manifold problem which is to be fixed next week by my mechanic.

    The question I have is that the Front Blower motor seems to keep blowing fuses. I checked the wiring and all seems to be fine (to control switch and blower motor) with no evidence of burnt wiring. I thought there might be a short inside the control switch and was wondering if anyone has any pointers for troubleshooting this.

    Any help would be appreciated, as I try to do as much of the work I can myself.


  • Hi guyz..
    I have a 96 villager LS with 86K on it now.. It drives well but does have some of the problems mentioned by others..
    At speeds above 65- 75, it starts shaking.. you can feel strong vibrations in steering.tried balancing tires, didn't work.. any thoughts?
    The captain seats in the middle row make pretty loud rattling sound.. looked into the clamps and fixtures, can't figure out how to get rid of this..
    now the biggest one is the sticky pedal.. always after idling the pedal gets stuck and after pressing hard i have to take those jerky starts.. the other day i hit my friend's car doing this.. tried oiling the cables etc, didn't work...
    please let me know if others also are having similar problems and whats the solution you found.. Thanks
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Maybe an alignment in addition to the balancing you've done?

    The sticky pedal sounds like the old throttle body needs cleaning. That's a common issue. Try an Advanced Search (linked on the left) for throttle body and you'll find a lot of messages with cleaning info. It's easy enough to do-it-yourself if you don't want to take it to a mechanic.

    Some people also have the vibration problem (ditto on the search recommendation), but I don't recall seeing a solution.

    Steve, Host
  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    With two different Quests, I've experienced vibration problems, and in both cases I was able to fix to my satisfaction. Sorry if I haven't shared this here before, but here are my experiences:

    - My 2002 Se Quest had some vibration, when I first purchased it. I was told this was probably due to tires being out of round, and I should just drive out the flat spots....

    However, being that I have little patience, I took it directly Goodyear tire shop the day after purchased; and after diagnosing that two of the tires had flats spots, they switched them out at no charge. All covered on the warranty. No vibrations since then.

    - With my first Quest (94 GXE), I once experienced a very bad vibration problem(at speeds over 45 mph) immediately after having my brakes pads replaced. It turned out the rear brakes had been improperly adjusted.

    I took it right back to the dealer and they adjusted the brakes. This resolved the problem immediately. I've heard it's a little tricky adjusting the rear brakes on the older model Quest. So you may want to take it to a certified Nissan tech if you think you need a rear brake adjustment.

    - Lastly there's the issue of the middle row seat vibration. I've noticed the upper part of my captain chairs vibrate a little when going over bumps, although, have to say this personally has not been a problem for me.

    Mercury actually has a tsb out on it for the Villager, and my dealer offered to use that solution, but I declined because it involves putting weights into the seats. I prefer to keep my van seats as light as possible. I'll post the details I have of the Mercury Villager TSB in my next message. Hope this is helpful.

  • revkarevka Posts: 1,750
    00-24-7 001127 Second Row Seat - Vibrates/Rattles

    MERCURY: 1999-2000 VILLAGER

    ISSUE: The second row two-passenger bench or second row bucket seats on some vehicles may shake or vibrate noticeably while driving on rough roads or over bumps. This condition may be due to the inability of the vibration damper inside the seat back to adequately dampen seat shake

    ACTION: On bucket seats, replace the production vibration damper in the seat back with a revised damper. On 2-passenger bench seats, replace the single production vibration damper with two (2) revised dampers included in the repair kit. The revised damper(s) will reduce the amount of seat vibration or shake on rough roads or over bumps.


    1. Fold seat back down flat, remove four (4) fasteners securing seat back tray and remove tray.
    2. Unhook trim cover J-hooks and pull cover back to access vibration damper located near top of seat back frame.
    3. Raise headrest, remove four (4) bolts that secure damper, push down on foam padding to provide clearance and remove damper.


    4. Install revised Damper YF5Z-12110A00-AA (2 required per vehicle) using the original attaching bolts. Tighten bolts to 7-12 Nm (62-106 lb-in) making sure damper is fully seated.
    5. Reposition plastic film, trim cover and attach J-hooks.
    6. Reinstall seat back tray and fasteners.
    7. Repeat above steps on remaining second row bucket seat.

    Replace single production vibration damper with two (2) revised dampers included in Damper Kit XF5Z-12110A00-HA.
    XF5Z-12110A00-HA Damper Kit includes:
    ^ One (1) Vibration Damper (RH)
    ^ One (1) Vibration Damper (LH)
    ^ Six (6) Attaching Bolts
    ^ One (1) Instruction Sheet


    002407A Replace Second Row Seat 0.5 Hr. Vibration Dampers

    Part numbers

    YF52- 12110A00-AA Damper (Bucket Seat) (2 required per vehicle)

    XF5Z-12110A00-HA Kit - Damper (Bench Seat)


    Also, to throw in my usual disclaimer. It's possible that this procedure may have been updated/changed since this was published.

    So not a bad idea to check with your Mercury dealer service, to make sure this information still applies.... Okay? Good luck.

    Host/Hatchbacks & Wagons
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Thanks Revka!

    Steve, Host
  • Can anyone tell me, do you have to take your vehicle to the dealer where you bought it for warranty work?

    The dealer that has my van, and has had it for 3 weeks now, is terrible. I'm not the first to say that, I've been hearing it alot lately. There is another dealer close to me and wanted to take it there, could I do that?
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    You are not required to take your vehicle to the dealer where you purchased it to have warranty work completed. Pick the one that takes care of you best.

    That said, the dealer who sold you the vehicle is more likely to provide a loaner car or other perks than is someone who did not make any money on the sale of the vehicle.
  • #1225: If your "brake" red light on the dash is on, or comes on when hard cornering or hard braking, immediately check the level of your brake fluid. Fill it up to the full line, or very slightly over the line. There seems to be a sensor in the reservoir that gets active when the level is about half way down between full and minimum.
    #1230: As others have said, it's likely the tires. Have you rotated them lately, and then the shaking or vibrating started? Regardless, you may need to purchase new tires. To help ease the pain, sell the old tires to a used tire dealer, if there is usable tread left.
  • riswamiriswami Posts: 192
    what do you mean by the common exhaust manifold problem? I heard that earlier models, 93-95, had exhaust manifold bolt problems. Are you saying this was done to your 98?
  • Thanks for the info on the dealer fixing something. I didn't think I had to take it to the one I bought it from, if I ever get it back from them, then I'll probably try that the next time. And I understand about the perk thing...hehe.

    The brake light and battery light issue i asked about on post #1225, no the lights came on and stayed on after there was a water leak of sorts into the passenger side floor. I'd say the wiring harness was full of water or the like and it's shorting or there's a ground problem, but they can't seem to find it. I just wondered if anyone had experienced that, so I could tell the "professionals" how to fix it! :) thanks for the help.
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