Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • I have ALLDATA, and I won't mind submitting any paperwork for any certain repair. I notice a lot of people on here are asking for how to's. If you don't want to wait for me to reply, autozone has online repair manuals. These are almost the same one's I have in my repair database. I'm new here so please let me know if this is not allowed. Thank you. Also, Please feel free to email me.
  • fredgrfredgr Posts: 1
    YES. Ours has shifted hard for the entire 130,000 miles. After several trips to the dealer we finally became convinced that it is normal. We also had the first year model, and it did not shift hard. My understanding is that the newer models received a Ford transaxle with the Nissan engine, whereas the original Villagers had a fully Nissan set. The hesitation on acceleration you describe is probably carbon build-up in the intake. We had this at 110,000 miles. This can be removed by the dealer to give you a nice smooth acceleration (at least until it shifts). Unfortunately, the cleaning costs around $300.
  • I have had the same problem as well.

    I have had this a few times. My van dies if I drive it for more than 30 minutes at 5000 feet at 100º or at 9000 feet and 80º. My first guess is that it a vapor lock problem but no one that I have talked to locally (Denver) has any clue about this.

    I'm thinking of replacing the fuel pump, but would like to know if it would really make any difference before I pull it out. I know it's inside the fuel tank so that has to come out first.

    Has anybody else come up with a solution to this???
  • Looking to buy a cheap 96 Quest XE that has some mechanical problems, heres what it does, the injector nearest the firewall on the pass side is dumping gas into the cylinder and coming out onto the engine as well, of course the engine misses on that cylinder, the exhaust smells like gas and puffs out some white smoke that clears up very quickly, doesn't appear to have been overheated, no water in the oil, or oil in the water, the oil does smell like gas though.The other problem, the air box doesn't quite meet on one side where the seam is and has been like this for a while according to the owner so some air has been bypassing the filter. I'm wondering what would cause that air box the be like that and why that injector is bad, after searching i found that injector problems are rare. The outer CV boots are bad and there is a massive PS leak. It has 130K miles and they want $2000 for it, interior and body are nice. Opinions appreciated.
    Also the owner claims he got some water in the gas once that causeed the injector problem, it has been parked since then.
  • cmadigacmadiga Posts: 1
    my Quest runs good, I had a problem with the alternator and replaced with the new part at the Nissan dealership near me. After few hundred miles again I have a problem, my head lights and all other lights blink while engine runing, lights on.
    I checked the alternator and found that it goes up to 14.5 and down to 13.5 rate.
    I took to the dealership again asking them to check it. They want me to install new battary cables, which I have done few month ago.
    can anyone tell me what should it be......
  • 2000 Sounds like a pretty descent deal to me despite the problems..

    I would be most concerned about the injector problem. Can you work on it before you purchase it? Two things to try. First of all, do a compression check on all cylinders. If you have good compression, everything else can be fixed fairly cheaply. The major concern here is that all that fuel dumping into that cylinder washes away the oil from the cylinder wall and the rings in that one going bad. Doing it for just a little while shouldn't hurt it, but if it's been driven that way for a while, definitely check compression.

    The second thing to try is to swap the injector with another one from another cylinder. Don't know how those rear injectors are to get out, but it's worth a try. Maybe even pick up a junk yard part just to try. Can't cost too much, I wouldn't think.

    Good luck.
  • The air box problem doesn't sound like too big of a deal. Someone probably took it apart and just didn't get it back together right. Easiest fix???? Duck tape.............
  • Definitely not ethical, and maybe even illegal, but you could try to remove the light bulb.
    I've even heard of people hot wiring the light to the oil pressure light. That way it comes on when the key is on, and goes off when the engine starts.

    Proceed at your own risk.
  • I have experienced a very similar problem for most of the 3 years I've owned my 95 Villager. Here in Nebraska, it gets very warm & humid in the summer months. In the spring, as soon as temps get over around 50 degrees, mine gets harder and harder to start cold, or after a moderate length hot soak. And in the warm humid summer temps, it will typically die and exhibit "vapor lock" symptoms if the fuel level is below 1/2 tank and the temperatures are greater than 85 degrees. I bought a new fuel pump a couple of years ago, and have never installed it because you must remove the tank to do so, and I was a little unsure about whether the FP would solve the problem. I just found a TSB that addresses this issue, it is bulletin # 962522, and it talks of an improved gerotor pump. So I may go ahead and install the darn thing-it has already cost me a starter because of the long crank times in the heat. Strange enough, I have taken several long trips in the cold months with nary a problem, but try driving across town in 95 degree weather with about a 1/4 tank-it will leave you sitting on the side of the road. I wish I could see a full copy of the TSB-the only info I have is a limited view of the TSB in an index. Anyone have access? :confuse:
  • manyamanya Posts: 1

    I had the same problem with my nissan sentra.
    It took me around 6 months to figure it out. Check the button on your Keyless fob.
    not from outside from inside. you will see a small switch with a miniature button it, if it pops up after you depress it then you have another problem.

    but if you cannot depress it you probably need to change that.
  • jr714jr714 Posts: 24
    I am looking at an '02 Quest SE with 45,000 miles. The vehicle is off lease but appears to have been well maintained. Anything in particular I should look out for? Based on my cursory inspection, the only suspicious thing was the low level of coolant in the reservoir.
    Any help would be appreciated.
  • Thanks, the air box is together with all the clamps, its just warped for some reason. Unfortunantly I can't do anything to it until I buy it, the owner said he parked it the day it started all this, I believe him because with all the gas coming out, he would need to fill up every ten miles lol. Anyway, I found an injector for $50 at the auto parts.
  • I have a 95 Quest with the standard V6. Trying to some maintenance and am looking for the PCV location. Can anyone describe the location? I have the new valve and I know what it looks like but I can't match it to the hoses off of the valve cover. Any help would be appreciated. Best vehicle I have ever owned as far durability and reliability.
  • mjfcomjfco Posts: 2
    Try going to this web site, I had the same trouble and fixed it with help from this site.
  • Help! :cry: My 2000 Quest that I purchased in April has turned out to be a major cause of grief :lemon: . The speedometer has a mind of its own which is one issue but the one I'm most concerned about is the fact that I will be driving down the interstate and it will suddenly lose power. Its not stalling and everything stays on (radio, air, etc.) but it acts as though I took my foot off the gas and it just slows way down despite the fact that I'm mashing my foot on the gas. Just before it starts to slow it chokes just a bit. I've had to limp to the shoulder when cars are coming up on me at 70 mph and it scares me to death! Once I get it to the shoulder I just put it in park, rev it up, and off I go. Everything is fine (except for the speedometer/odometer) for a few weeks and then it will do it again. I've taken it to three mechanics. Initially we were thinking its the fuel system but it isn't. We finally bought a new distributor and it was good for two months. Now its doing it again and I need to take back in but I have no idea where to bring it and I'm about broke now. Any ideas or advice???
  • jr714jr714 Posts: 24
    Here is a shot from the Haynes manual:

    It looks like it's on the back side of the engine closer to the windshield.
  • I bought this quest new and have put about 130k on it. It's been a good van until now. My wife said it was gutless. I thought the coil wire may be bad. I had never changed the plugs or wires on it. We had the timing belt changed at 107k. It has no coil wire, so I just replaced the plugs and wires. Problem is still there. I googled around, and couldn't find the problem. A diagnostic guy said the egr had triggered the service engine soon light. He couldn't find a problem with it and said to have the catalytic convertor checked. It tested fine. I replaced the fuel filter. I got tired of throwing money into it and took it to the "experts" at Nissan. They sat on it for 4 days and charged me $250.00+ and said they had 3 hours of shop time into it and checked to make sure the timing belt hadn't jumped. They also tested the fuel pump, and a bunch of stuff in the fuel/emmissions system, and determined that the airflow meter might be bad. They wanted 500.00 for the part and an hour and a half labor to replace it. I went down to this dealership in Fayetteville AR, and picked up the van. I put the part in myself in 10 minutes for $129.00 from O'Reillys. It did not fix the problem. I had the transmission flushed as well, since my wife insisted it was in the transmission, and I got tired of her whining about it. I just want it to run like it should. Does anyone else have this problem? It seems to idle OK and the distributor cap looks fine, but I don't know, and am going to go broke if I keep throwing expensive parts, and misdiagnosis at it.
  • jr714jr714 Posts: 24
    I would try the Haynes manual. It offers step by step troubleshooting at the front of the book and the chapters offer great details and diagrams. I've even brought the book to my mechanic at times, though of course with discretion.

    I've had the '93-'98 manual for years, but since I just bought a new '02 Quest, I just ordered the '93-'01 version for about $20 with shipping. If you're interested, I'll post the link.
  • bploebploe Posts: 1
    I think I have a similar problem with a 99 villager, every time I have new front brakes put on (which I should not need every 6 mo.), I drive away from the repair shop, a few miles down the road and at about 65 miles per hour and the rear brakes engage (I don't have my foot on the brake) and they start grabbing and shaking the car something fierce. No one can figure it out, if fact I have it in a shop right now.
    Anyone have a clue?
  • We have had the same problem with the brakes on our Quest. This has happened several times and then one or both drums are warped and the van shakes whenever you put the brakes on. We have had to replace the front brakes 4-5 times in the last 4 years about(25k to 30k). It is almost like the back brakes stop working so the fronts are doing all of the work. This is probably normal anyways. I have found the left caliper frozen twice. Check to make sure that the pad closest to the caliper piston is not warn excessively more than the outside pad. It should be worn a little bit more but not extremely. The force of the piston will naturally wear the inside pad more. We (I) replaced the left front caliper twice(65k and 130k) Appearantly we have a hard right off ramp that comes at the bottom of a steep hill. I think it makes the left caliper hot and causes the piston to freeze or take in excess dust. Caliper replacement is easy, don't let a shop rip you on such an easy job. Have someone help you if you are unsure the first time. After you have done it the first time, it should take less than an hour including bleeding brakes. Now as far as the back brakes go on yours, They may need to be turned. Keep in mind though that each time you turn them, there is a little less drum to dissipate the heat. It only takes a cold puddle on hot drums to cause them to warp. What probably is happening on yours is that they are slightly warped and when they get hot, they get a little bit more warped until they cool down. There is only a small amount of space between the brake shoes and the drums. If there is any warp to your drums, you will feel it in your back end. To make a short story long, make sure your rear bearings have good clean grease in them, and try a new set of drums. I also wonder if they may be putting a pair of shoes with a composition causes so much heat that it warps your drums. Hopefully the new drums aren't out of true to begin with. As far as my van, I was told to try disconnecting the battery and see if the computer will reset and recognize the new part. If it doesn't, then I will have to take it to a dealer that can reprogram the computer to recognize it. Still, I don't know if that is the fix, but I will try it and see.......... Incidentally, I normally replace my rear brakes about every 3rd or 4th time that I do the front brakes. I don't trust too many shops anyways.
  • Sure, I think I will pick one up. I think they were better years ago, and now only give some basic information. It's like they took the old Haynes, and the vehicle owners manual, and printed up something inbetween. Hopefully they have gotten comprehensive again like they use to be. I thought I would actually save money by letting the dealer diagnose it, and maybe once the computer is reset, the problem actually will be solved. I just thought that they should have been able to diagnose it in less than an hour. I think they intentionally dragged it out to work up a bill. They should have checked the simple things first, not tearing into the timing belt. I could have lived with a $70.00 bill, and a $130.00 part. Instead I had a $254.00 bill and a $130.00 part, not to mention the $150.00 in parts and non Nissan diagnoses I payed for prior to taking it into Nissan. It just seems that there are so many special computer parts anymore, that it would be hard to test them all, and expensive as well to replace on a guess. Besides, I don't know how you could test them all without a factory shop manual containing all the specifications, test procedures, and necessary tools. Thats why we rely on someone posting the same problem and already having gone through all the trial and error of getting it fixed.
  • dlhenrydlhenry Posts: 1
    So says the Ford dealer, according to the computer printout. Carbon build-up will really cause problems someday. $1400 is the quote--$730 of this is parts. The van runs and looks great. I sure hate to fork out $1400 without some feedback or a second opinion. Is this price somewhat reasonable,--or should I try and see if something else is the problem? Thanks!
  • The drivers side headlight probably has a problem with the connector. I think it is seperate from the turnsignal issue, although a suspicious coincidence Ours actually needs to be replaced on our 99(when I get tired of defective headlight warnings) The sticking gas pedal- you can fix yourself with a can of carb cleaner and a rag. Compressed air is optional. Just spray the inside of the throttle body, and wipe out. The throttle body is essentially the carburator equivelance. I refuse to pay the dealer 100.00(or whatever) for something I can do in 5 minutes. You'll see how easy it is when you pull the aircleaner apparatus off. As far as the belts, make sure your power-steering is full. If it isn't, throw in some stop leak. If it still squeeks, make sure the tensioner pully is not frozen. On ours, at about 105k, we had the timing belt changed and I let the shop replace the other belts since I was busy, and they had to pull them to do the timing belt anyways. Low and behold, the belts started squeeking. I told them to check the tensioner pulley when they did the belts due to the squeek. They figured out the power steering leak, but put the tensioner pulley on wrong. After careful investigation and reasoning, I put it back together right, and it hasn't squeeked since. Good luck!
  • Kind of late, but on ours, I have replaced the caliper twice. Once at 65k and again at 130k. The piston froze for some reason. I did the work myself for cheap, so it doesn't bother me too much. I just thought it was caused by a hard right off-ramp we take a few times aday.
  • purrktypurrkty Posts: 1
    I have a series of strange problems with my 96 Nissan Quest GXE, it has started with the back blower that stopped working, then the fan for the radiator burned up and was bout melted so we replaced the fan and it worked half way, whenever i would be stopped in traffic the fan would be running but the van would start to overheat and when it did this the van just did not want to go. So now the new fan is burning up. What is goin on with this silly vehicle????
  • Thanks for the info and web site. Figures they put it in a spot more difficult to do yourself. Thanks again the the help.
  • marku1marku1 Posts: 11
    I had a similar problem earlier this year in May. I posted all the details in this forum if you want to read the whole story. The short version is that my 95 was getting hot and running bad. Replaced the thermostat and it worked. The dealer explained that even a slight increase in temp. causes the computer to do several things to prevent major damage. All of these adjustments cause the engine to perform poorly. The confusing aspect for me was the water was flowing, the thermostat was just not opening all the way. Good luck.
  • Well, my temps never go over the M (norMal) on the gauge, and head temps read in regular ranges. I'll keep an eye on it, but I can't see how that accounts for the enormous gas mileage decrease.
  • Well, after a couple of misdiagnosis' I finally figured out what the problem was (with a little help from an auto forum, may have been this one.) First a recap: 1. engine lost power on any kind of hill, as well overheated after a steep one.2.transmission jerked from first to second. 3. An egg smell.
    This is on a 1999 Nissan Quest SE 3.3 V-6
    One diagnosis said it was an egr fault, but egr was fine, so the catalytic convertor needed to be checked. It checked ok. Belts and wires replaced. Dealer then checked egr system and timing belt, as well as catalytic convertor. They concluded that the air control meter was bad. they wantee 500. for the part, and 110. to put it in. I got the part and put it in. Still broke. Then someone said that it may have a clog in front of the catalytic convertor. I took off mid exhaust. It was still quiet with out the muffler, and still guttless. I took off the catalytic convertor(which bolts directly to the exaust manifold). Easy to do, but try to do it when the engine has cooled off. Drove it down the road and it sounded like a harley, but it ran like a bat out of hell. priced a new catalytic convertor and will have to order. I took the old one and tried to blow compressed air through it. It had some flow, but evidentally not enough.
    For now, i fixed it. It has a screen on both ends, and ceramic porcelain on the inside that looks like a fine honeycomb. You can only get to one side because the otherside is purposely welded with a bend. Heres what I did. I beat the holy living hell out of the guts of it. I dug the far screen out with a small stick with a finish nail through it. I then blew it out thoroughly. I put it back on, and it runs like new. (It was well maintained and cared for to begin with.) I'm sure its not street legal at this point, but it runs good, and quiet. I'll put a new one on here in a few days.
    Oh, by the way, the transmission now shifts properly again. It is smooth as it should be. Now we only need to fix the left headlight and the radio display.
    Here is what was wrong: You know how the throttle body builds up with carbon? Well now I find that the catalytic convertor does as well.I'm sure it is by design. Add some rust scale and you won't get anywhere. I even tried blowing it out from the outlet side, and it didn't come out. The engine was having to rev so hard that it would jerk when it finally got around to shifting. I'll also note that the only reason for the catalytic convertor to be here, is so that it can clog easier then if it were further from engine(my opinion)
    So this van has really been good. The dealer made this situation far more unpleasant and expensive then it had to be. I think they knew what the problem was all along, and saw an opportunity to pump alot of money out of me. I don't have that much money, and they knew that, but wanted to screw me anyways. I will not go to that dealer again, and may end up getting rid of the van so I don't have to worry about where to go for dealer parts or repairs. I think they just lost Nissan Motor Corporation and any Nissan dealer, a very loyal customer. I hope it was worth it for them. It was not for me.
This discussion has been closed.