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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager problems



  • Yesterday my wife ran over something huge with our 2001 Quest and blew out both front tires. She doesn't know what it was as she drives a car as if she is driving a boat and usually doesn't look at the road immediately in front of her. It's terrible, but true. It's amazing she's still alive.

    The tires were fantastic Firestone Supreme Si 225/60/16 with about 40,000 miles and a lot of tread dept remaining. I replaced the fronts with a pair of Goodyear Assurance 80,000 mile tires. They weren't my first choice, but the blow out happened just blocks from a Goodyear dealer - so, when in Rome....

    I dropped off the van and picked it up after work. On my way to the car I noticed that the dealer had not reinstalled the driver's side hub cap. Foolishly, I assumed that they left it in the back of the van. Thinking I would just install it at home, I drove off. When I arrived home, my wife immediately noticed the missing hub cap and asked what happened. I said it was in the back and that I would install it immediately. She went to open the rear liftgate only to discover that it would only open half way. I went back so see what was wrong and discovered that one my tailgate struts was bent like a hockey stick.

    I confronted the service station this morning about the issue. They denied everything, going so far as to state that they have no idea how that could have happened given the strength of most tailgate struts. After a short lesson on the multiplying power of a lever the guy agreed to get a new strut.

    Has anybody else had their tailgate struts fail or bend? Just curious.
  • An old post here described using Maxima bushing sets for the front suspension control arm. Does anyone happen to know the actual Nisan part numbers by any chance? IF not, at least the year range of Maxima that applies? I'm guessing
    the 91-94' set should be right for a 93-98 Quest?Villager.
  • Faced with the same problem, aparently they all suffer this fate sooner or later. Would you happen to have the Nissan part number(s) for these bushings?
    If not, then perhaps what year of Maxima they used for parts lookup?
  • Thanks for the reply. I found out the light in the engine was not going out when the hood was maybe this was a problem. My ex said the little switch that turned the light off was not working. He also put in a new battery..he said the battery he put in before was not a good one. Gee thanks LOL. The check engine light is ok for now.
    However the battery is still being drained somehow even with the new battery installed. Which is really a bummer expecially when living alone. Plus I do not want to be out late somewhere and not be able to get the van started. So maybe the battery is getting drained by something?
    What is the best way to get this checked? Basically I want to find out what and how much the repair is going to cost..because I need to make sure I have the cash to get it fixed. Can I take it to a garage and ask them to see what is wrong and let me know before putting in new stuff? I only have about 300 dollars put back and I am sure engine repairs are more than this. My ex works at a ac delco supply store and could probably get parts for me..will a mechanic let me bring parts to him or do I have to buy the parts from the garage? LOL I have no clue ! I appreciate everyone taking the time to read this..thanks so much.

    Nancy :confuse:
  • My yellow O/D dashboard indicator does not come on when I click the O/D button on the shifter. I tried at idle and at cruising 60 mph on highway without any luck. It does not even down shift after I click the button at highway speed. It simply means that the O/D is not engaging.

    Does anyone of you encounter this problem? Any suggestions? The van rides very nicely at 68k. Had the timing belt, brakes (front, rear), hoses replaced last month at the dealer. Appreciate your comments very much.

    Nissan Quest GXE 1999, bought new in Dec. 1998
  • tlongtlong CaliforniaPosts: 5,129
    We have a '94 Villager LS we bought new - we're now at 193,000 miles and it's still going!

    I managed to scrape our two cars together on the driveway last month (ouch!). My 2005 Acrua TL took $1100 to fix. We decided to leave the Villager alone - not worth the cost. It isn't all that noticable because of the two-tone paint....

    The Villager has had relatively few problems over the years. It runs good and burns no oil. We had to have the exhaust manifold bolts fixed at about 150K miles (a common problem). The Nissan engine and transaxle have been flawless. Most problems have come from the Ford side:

    - Ignition switch disintegrated a year or two ago and had to be replaced
    - Rear AC blower used to take about 5 minutes to start, now doesn't work at all
    - O/D light sometimes flickers on/off while driving (with corresponding up/downshifts), wiggling the shifter sometimes stops it. Dirty contact in there somewhere.
    - Paint is a bit chalky, noticably crappy relative to other cars I've owned
    - Interior is still in quite good shape, we use mats on the floor and have had a dash cover on until recently
    - Bad CV joints, we had the full axles and joints replaced at about 175K

    We are close to getting rid of it for an Odyssey (which I wish was a bit smaller), my scrape probably dropped the value from about $1000 to a few hundred. We might donate it instead. However, we might wait 6 months so we can make it to 200K!
  • I had my mechanic replace the knock sensor on my mercury villager 96 at a cost of $500 labor and part. After repair I noticed that at acceleration the car hesitates and then goes. My mechanic is still working on the problem. It looks like when he was putting everything back together after replacing the sensor, he made a mistake. Any idea what could be wrong?
  • mpk0mpk0 Posts: 1

    My 1995 Villager has developed an odd problem - the front heat/ac fan will work only on the highest setting. When it is set to one of the lower settings, it does not work at all. Is there a fix for this short of buying an entire new control unit? Let me know. Thanks.
  • joe78joe78 Posts: 1
    i have a 94 villager 180,000 miles on it. this van will run 6 months with no problems but at anytime it might lose its power after i coast to the curb it will sit and idle. it wont pick up rpms untill it is shut down for 4 to 10 minutes after that it might run afew months or a day. has anyone had this problem and solved it. i replaced the oxegen sensor and it ran good for a year or more . before i replaced the sensor it would not run for more than 10 minutes then it would stall in colorado. this has ben an ongoing problem for 5 years.
  • We have a 2000 Villager, and we're on our second switch. It just went bad yesterday! Again! Other than that, we've been pretty happy with it.
  • You have to replace the fan switch. Apparantly a common problem.
  • tom74tom74 Posts: 2
    How did your replacement go? I'm anxious to find out because I think I have the same problem--you can't turn the key from the locked position no matter how much torque you put on it. It takes me a half hour of slamming the steer wheel around before it releases. What did the parts cost you?
  • tom74tom74 Posts: 2
    Where is the speed sensor located?
  • ebussebuss Posts: 12
    The key cylinder can be purchased at AutoZone for under 20 dollars. Back up in this thread for instructions on how to remove and replace. Earl
  • ebussebuss Posts: 12
    According to my manual, the speed senser is located on the upper rear portion of the transaxle housing. It has a gear inside the housing driving it, with an electrical plug to the harness. Earl :)
  • My 1996 Mercury villager has 139 K miles on it. I have taken good care of it, oil changes every 3-5k, transmission flush last year, other various things to keep it reliable. My husband is convinced it is on its last leg and doesn't want me to drive it a thousand miles for the holidays. Does anyone have any advice for me? I really think my car will make it and also for another at least 60K miles.
  • ebussebuss Posts: 12
    Many people on this forum have posted many,many miles with their Villagers/Quest models. With proper care, and maintenance, any vehicle will last many years/miles. You said this 96 has gotten good care, has the timing belt and water pump been changed at the proper time? If so, I would not worry. Earl ;)
  • Yes, I did have the water pump and timing belt replaced last year at about 120K. I know I should have done it earlier. I guess I was lucky! Is there anything else, at the mileage I am currently at, that I should replace? :shades:
  • ebussebuss Posts: 12
    The front struts and rear shocks are due for replacement, if not already done.
    After that, look for the little stuff, switches, rattles and things of that nature.
    Just keep up with the usual oil changes, drive belts, bulbs, and you will have many more miles out of this Villager. We have two Villagers, a 93 and a 98. and find that they have most of the same parts between the two, and are mostly pretty easy to repair. Some of the others on this forum may have a few other suggestions. Good Luck! Let us know how you do. Earl :)
  • I have a 1994 Mercury Villager with 139,000 miles & among other suddenly occurring problems, a cracked exhaust manifold. My mechanic told me about frquent issues with MV manifold studs, etc. & I've also read some on-line, here & elsewhere. Since the van needs engine/transmission mounts & we just paid $400 to replace steering column bushings, we're looking at a lot of $$ outlay for repair costs.

    We're trying to figure out: Given the possibility of stud replacement costs ($250-1000 just for this, according to my mechanic), is it worth replacing the exhaust manifold? Clearly we need to repair it if we're going to keep the van, but we're wondering if a liquid crack filler might do the job so we can buy time on this & still safely use the vehicle. Any opinions? What experience have other MV owners here had with replacing the exhaust manifold &/or using a liquid crack filler?

    I'm making my way through the message archives, but would appreciate new input too. Thanks!

    Zoe & Dan
  • can anyone tell me how to change a knock sensor on a 98 nissan quest. thanks shortdawg
  • Hi,
    Villagers have a common problem with the fuel rail - rubber hose connections lostening up over time. The fuel rail is located just under the intake manifold on top of the engine. The rubber hose is connected to the steel fuel rail tubing using a small hose clamp. Take a phillips screwdriver, and snug up the screws in teh hose clamps on each end of the fuel rail.

    I did this each winter for about 3 winters when the fuel smell would recurr. Now, it has been about 4 years with no fuel smell. !!

    Found this fix on a Villager/Quest web site about 6 years ago.

    Hope it works!
    SoobieGuy :)
  • ebussebuss Posts: 12
    Shortdawg.. Please do a search about knock sensors in this forum before going thru all that work, something else could be wrong, triggering the knock sensor code. If this is something you really need to change, I can scan a few pages of my 98 villager workshop manual and e-mail them to you. Earl :confuse:
  • My '97 Villager has nearly 110,000 miles with very few problems. Now, however, the "Check Engine" light has been on for three months. The last time this happened it was a sensor and we had that fixed to the tune of $300. This time, we call it the "Spend Money" light and have ignored it since no problems have presented themselves. Anyone else experience this problem? Also the heat/air works in the front dashboard area but only itermittently in the back.
  • ebussebuss Posts: 12
    The "check engine" light could be as simple as a gasoline cap being loose or worn, but then again something not as easy. Autozone will check the computer codes for free,and tell you what the problem is. The same with advance auto parts, if you have one of these stores in you area. Heat not working in the back could be low coolant in the system, or air that needs to be bled out, blocked heater core. Just my 'two' cents
    Earl :sick:
  • Hi, my quest has 150,000 miles and when driven at speeds below 20mph the ABS system comes on when turning left. If i am turning left and pushing the brakes. It feels like i am in snow (pulsating and vibrating ABS). Transmission not shifting as smoothly as it should from 2nd to 3rd. I get a jerky feeling like i am bouncing off the redline or when the transmission shifts itself at the redline. Can someone pleas help me. I also get the peddle stick and the lights for the stereo is not working. I use to smell the egg smell but it went away. Check engine light is on. got oxygen sensor and it went off for five minutes. HELP!!
  • Would someone tell me how to set the memory seats in my villager Estate. It did not come with the owners manual when purchased used. Thanks for any input!
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    If I recall correctly, there are two buttons on the drivers door for the settings. You just need to set the driver's seat where you want it and then push and hold one of the two buttons for a couple of seconds (just like setting most electronic radio station buttons). You can test by then using the electronic controls to change the seat settings and then push the button you set to return the seat to your designated setting.

    If this doesn't work or is not clear, post back and I will pull out my manual.
  • Thank you for your input. I played with the buttons for a while and after ramming my knees into the dash a few times I finally got the positions straight. :)
  • dtu1dtu1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Quest SE. It has the following problems:
    1) Radio display off. Due to a poor soldering job on the power supply board. I had it fixed twice at the cost of $100. The repaires were re-soldering the PCB.
    2) Back Windshield wipper motor failed.
    3) Low Windshield cleaner lite always on.
    4) Noise front tires. Sears told me to replace all shocks and related parts for about $1000.

    Any comments or experience to share ?

This discussion has been closed.